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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i have cleaned and replaced the break fluid in master and clean the filter purchased a new oem cap and a new oem E- brake switch all 3 things i did none of them solved the problem ..... even purchased all new oem E-brake adjustable linkage and adjusted the E brake still did not solve the problem..... anyone else experience this ? i am thinking this may have to do with my integrated control module but none of the usual ICM problems are happening ? the door chime and light all work wipers rear defrosted abs .... i am kind of at a lost..... what made me think it was the ICM to begin with was i disconnected the 2 wire at the master cylinder cap and disconnected the ground at the E brake switch and the problem was steal there ???
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks i have i 1998 acura service Manuel from the dealership what page is this on ?
23-135 i got it thanks i never saw this page before i will check it all out only thing i so not like is they give you a reference but it does not give you ...... if its volts or ohms or what they are supposed to be .... the table basically says the E Brake should have some kind of reading every time you pull it up between the postive and ground and oppisite for the cap for the master cylinder it should have a reading every time the float drops
 

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Well when the circuit is closed, it should have very little resistance (low ohms). And then when the circuit is open, you should have no connection between the two. I think what's happening is one of your switches is not fully opening, so you're light still has connection at some point. (that last sentence doesn't make much sense)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
when the circuit is closed it has a wide range readings like 0.03 to 50.00 ohms on the E Brake when the circuit is open no connection between the two did not try the master cylinder yet any sugestions the e brake switch is brand new oem
 

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Hmm, I feel like the resistance with the switch closed should be closer to 10 ohms or less. Try closing the button yourself (without pushing down the e-brake) and see what kind of readings you get.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hmm, I feel like the resistance with the switch closed should be closer to 10 ohms or less. Try closing the button yourself (without pushing down the e-brake) and see what kind of readings you get.
same readings with pushing it down by hand ....... switched back to the old e brake switch and got only 1 high jump but it was off the charts 375 ohms ......... i cant see how i have one old bad switch and one brand new bad switch.......??? could it be the e brake itself ? the master cylinder tested out fine at its highest was 8 ohms and it did not bounce all around like the e brake switch and closed circut was 0 as well i am at a loss to be honest
 

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same readings with pushing it down by hand ....... switched back to the old e brake switch and got only 1 high jump but it was off the charts 375 ohms ......... i cant see how i have one old bad switch and one brand new bad switch.......??? could it be the e brake itself ? the master cylinder tested out fine at its highest was 8 ohms and it did not bounce all around like the e brake switch and closed circut was 0 as well i am at a loss to be honest
It must be the wiring for the e-brake switch then. Somehwere the wiring does not have a good connection.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I don't think so my brake cable is also a little lopsided. They only thing that closes the circuit and makes the light go off is the brake fluid level switch and the e brake switch.
maybe my power wire coming in to the e brake switch is shorted to ground ? maybe the wire loom has rubbed through its a single wire coming to the switch from what i see i will half to remove the carpet and get a better look
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
That's my theory. Somewhere there's a very small break.
ill search for it one day this summer when i have the time thanks matt for helping me out..... i honestly dont even have my motor in the car lol the head is at darton east getting built right now..... my block got sleeved to 84mm then step decked then the sleeves got bored and honed for my 84mm cp pistions and the mains got align honed for the as well my crank got drill taped cleaned and polished and balanced with the flywheel now just have to send my block back down to get blue printed with all my parts ...
 
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