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Discussion Starter #1
Been dealing with p1457 since 2016 went as far as replacing all the components and ecm to correct. Now that my car is 20 yo i dont need to worry about emissions anymore and im tired of the damned light being on. Could someone please direct me on how to remove the evap and clear CELs? Ive search but found no definitive answers.
 

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Removing the EVAP will not clear the cell. The ECU will constantly be looking for that system to be operating normally. Besides fixing the actual issue, you're only other option would be to purchase a tuning system and purchase an OBD1 ECU with a conversion harness. Because the EVAP system would did not exist for OBD1, you wouldn't have your CEL light.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Removing the EVAP will not clear the cell. The ECU will constantly be looking for that system to be operating normally. Besides fixing the actual issue, you're only other option would be to purchase a tuning system and purchase an OBD1 ECU with a conversion harness. Because the EVAP system would did not exist for OBD1, you wouldn't have your CEL light.
Thanks for the response and information! That makes sense :(. Last thing I was told when I did a smoke test was that the leak was coming from the vent shut valve not opening and closing by itself. I replaced it but still kept throwing the code. Any pointers on where to check next?

I will research converting to obd1,would you by chance have a recommendation for ecm? I’m still learning about these cars. 🙏🏽
 

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Who told you that information? Dealer? A friend? What all components have you specifically replaced? Are the components aftermarket or OEM?

In all seriousness, keep it stock (my opinion), and take it to the dealer for a proper diagnosis and repair.
I had gotten it smoked by a shop that does inspections, and that was the last thing I was told. So far this is what has been replaced:

-two way valve
-purge valve solenoid (from a euro 98 itr)
-charcoal canister
-fuel gas cap (I know this is another code)
-the hoses
-vent shut
-ecm (was a desperate last attempt lol)
All oem

I had taken to multiple dealerships to have diagnosed and fixed, but they had failed to. They’d cut the light off long enough to pass inspection then itd be back on. :(
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Seems like you have your bases covered in terms of parts. What about checking for continuity from all of the circuits within the evap system, to the ECU? How have you identified that wiring isn't an issue?
That is a good suggestion! Thank you! I’d bought a multimeter and looked at that bundle of wires, very intimidating lol. That is where i stopped. Would i need something like this to stick in the pin holes to test? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HK3TQB7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_6x58FbY8M98JW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I did search under evap wiring just now but not finding much. Do you have one you can point me to? Im going to continue searching here too!
 

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1. Locate the Canister Vent Shut (CVS) valve on the top of the charcoal canister, and the bypass solenoid under the vehicle by the fuel tank. Both solenoids have a Black/Yellow (BLK/YEL) or a Black/White (BLK/WHT) wire that supply voltage to the solenoids.
2. Check to verify that there is voltage to the solenoids, key on. If there is voltage to both solenoids, the second wire is the wire the Engine Control Module (ECM) will ground to control the solenoid. On the CVS valve, backprobe the Green (GRN) wire, ground it and verify that the valve will close and hold vacuum. Also verify that it will open when the ground is taken away.
3. Test the Bypass Solenoid (BS), ground the Blue (BLU) wire and verify that the BS solenoid will click and operate. If either solenoid fails, replace the solenoid and see if the code resets. If the solenoids pass and operate correctly, an evaporative simulation test will need to be performed.
4. To perform an evaporative simulation test, ground the CVS valve and the BS solenoid at the same time. Put a voltmeter on the fuel tank pressure sensor Green (GRN) wire and then start the vehicle and tap ground on the purge solenoid and draw a vacuum on the system. Wait until the pressure sensor reads 1 to 1.5 volts and stop. If the voltage does not go up, there are no leaks. If the voltage increases, look for a leak in the system. When performing this test, clamp the hose from the 2-way valve to the fuel tank. Normal fuel tank pressure sensor voltage is 2.5 volts no vacuum or pressure in the system.
5. If possible, verify that the Engine Control Module (ECM) can ground the solenoids when commanded through a scan tool.
 

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1. To test the EVAP system, scan the Fuel Tank Pressure (FTP) sensor voltage or test it with a Digital Volt Ohmmeter (DVOM). The sensor has a 3-wire connector, located by the canister on the bracket. The Light Green wire connects to the FTP sensor signal. The voltage should be close to 2.5v with the fuel cap removed and the ignition key turned on.
2. With the fuel cap on, start the engine and allow it to run. The fuel tank should build pressure and voltage should increase to 2.8v or 2.9v if there are no leaks in the fuel tank area or in the fuel cap.
3. After the voltage increases, turn the engine off and verify that the voltage holds (does not decrease). If the voltage starts to decrease, clamp off the hose from the Bypass Solenoid (BS) and the 2-way valve assembly that runs to the charcoal canister, and see if the fuel tank holds pressure.
4. If the fuel tank holds pressure under these conditions, replace the 2-way valve and the BS and retest.
5. If the leak remains, use a smoke machine to check for a leak in the fuel tank and filler neck areas.
 

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The tools you selected on amazon will work fine to probe. Also, I hope some of this helps. Read it and take one step at a time. I pulled this from the system we use at work.
Good Luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The tools you selected on amazon will work fine to probe. Also, I hope some of this helps. Read it and take one step at a time. I pulled this from the system we use at work.
Good Luck.
YOU ROCK my friend!!!!!! This is incredibly helpful!!!! This should totally be added to the help articles. Thank you so much!!! 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Seems like you have your bases covered in terms of parts. What about checking for continuity from all of the circuits within the evap system, to the ECU? How have you identified that wiring isn't an issue?
Can we please add macegsr reply to resources! 🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘
 

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Discussion Starter #13
As I attempt this I will try to take pics and update this thread in accordance to steps
 
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