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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
My goal: hit 350whp and 250tq at roughly 14psi on 93 octane, and a daily driver tune at 7psi (Waste Gate spring pressure) estimated at 250whp.

First comes the Block build. (Done)
once that's good to go, I'll swap blocks and toss on the new clutch. (Done)
While I'm working on a block swap, I'll have the head work being done. (Change of plans; getting the headwork done a little later)
once the new Head is back, I'll put her all together and test it out. Assuming all goes well and I don't need to tear it back down The turbo components will get tossed on, and she'll be limped over for the tune.

Future plans: (always changing)
corner weighed
headwork

Edit:
The re-build has finally begun. For real this time! The spun bearing damage will be fixed, and the car will start.
Goal=running by Christmas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
* = NOT installed

after Tune
(These will get installed after having headwork done)
*OEM valve guides
*Skunk2 Tuner valves
hook up speed sensor wire to turbo timer
OEM ignition coil
OEM distributor cap
corner weight and alignment.


Parts list:

Suspension (USDM GSR)
Energy suspension polyurethane bushing kit (full hyperflex-took forever to install them all)
Energy suspension motor mount kit (2 under + rear)
Tein Super Street adjustable coil over suspension
Skunk2 front upper control arm camber kit
Blox rear "upper control arm" camber kit
Spoolin (LCoN) traction bars
EBC Red Stuff brake pads front and back
ATE Super Blue brake fluid
Brembo blank rotors
Removed sound deadening material
Steelies with winter tires on now!
OEM ITR Rear sway bar
Beaks sub frame brace

Transmission (GSR tranny)
Competition Stage 4 clutch
ACT streetlite flywheel
OEM all new bearings and seals
OBX Limited slip differential (rebuilt per article on honda-tech, replaced with hardened washers)

Bottom end (JDM GSR B18C block)
Benson sleeved 84mm
CP 9.8cr 84mm pistons
CP 84mm ring set (broke a ring during install)
Manley turbo tuff gsr connecting rods
ACL bearings main + thrust (1 yellow, and 1 pink OEM main bearing on #3)
OEM rod bearings (yellow) ACL's where too tight
OEM micropolished GSR crank
GE oil squirter block offs
ARP main studs
ARP head studs
OEM vtec Water pump
OEM timing belt, tensioner, spring
OEM JDM GSR Oil cooler
OEM GSR 95 water pipe
OEM Vtec oil pump
Moroso baffled oil pan
--Cometic 84mm head gasket
Golden Eagle 84mm head gasket (OEM honda part, bored)

Head (USDM GSR)
Skunk2 pro Intake Manifold
Hondata Intake Manifold gasket
OEM ITR throttle cable + wire stay
B&R fuel line kit (from fuel filter to fuel rail-OEM was a bit short after switching IM's)
AEM Fuel pressure regulator
B&M Fuel pressure gauge
OEM LS throttle body pulley/spring
--Custom built oil catch can
--Custom built oil catch can #2
Custom built oil catch can #3 (in progress)
Skunk2 cam seal
Skunk2 Tuner valve springs
OEM steel valve seats and retainers
OEM valve seals
Skunk2 Tuner 1 cams
Skunk2 Pro cam gears
OEM ITR Lost Motion Assembly's

Turbo (custom build)
Garrett gt2871r with ATP T3 housing
Spoolin quick4ac with EGT bung on cylinder 3
Spoolin closed loop 3" Stainless Steel dump tube with two O2 bungs (one right under drive shaft-unusable)
Spoolin 3" flex pipe
Spoolin FMIC piping
Tial 50mm bov
Ebay "400hp" Intercooler
Tial 38mm wastegate
Venom vacuum manifold
Fast-turbo oil feed/return kit
Fast-turbo water line kit
GM 3 bar map sensor
Thermal Research 3" Stainless Steel catback
Magnaflow 3" cat (welded v-band)
Ebay 3" testpipe/resonator (welded v-band)-to replace cat when unneeded

Electronics/other:
OEM old Honda injector box (wired with quick disconnects)
plug and play injector conversion harness (wired with quick disconnects)
Delphi 880cc injectors (peak and hold)
Neptune RTP hardware (installed in obd1 ecu)
OBD2 -> OBD1 ecu harness
--OEM P28 OBD1 ECU- chipped (died)
OEM P28 OBD1 ECU- chipped
NGK spark plugs (BKR7E-11) (gapped at .028")
Odessy battery PC680
Kenwood deck
--2x 12" Rockford Fosgate subwoofers
--Custom made subwoofer enclosure
--Pioneer 750w amp
--MSD external coil and cap
Walbro 255 fuel pump kit
Autometer bezel guage pod
K&N FIPK short ram air intake (reused for turbo intake arm)
EBay S2000/shark antenna
EBay metal pedal covers
Magnacore spark plug wires
EBay O2 sensor
OEM hatch actuator
OEM fuel cap
Autometer Oil temp gauge
Autometer Pyrometer (Exhaust Gas Temperature)
Autometer Wideband O2 sensor and gauge
Autometer Oil pressure gauge
Autometer Boost/Vac gauge
Autometer 3' 4AN ss line to loop Oil pressure gauge and oil feed splitter on firewall
--Greddy turbo timer (removed)
--EBay turbo timer harness for greddy
Greddy profec spec 2 Electronic Boost Controller

Security
nearly every tip from team-integra and honda-tech
rewired nearly everything in the car to correspond with a wire color cryptic cypher for quick lookup back to original wire diagrams if you have the cypher key.
Kept in locked garage.
Imbedded gps devices trackable by cell phone
Friends with a willingness to help justice prevail

Specialty tools:
Sears Craftsman mechanical torque wrench (75 lbs/ft max so most efficient near 30-50)
Ingersoll Rand ½” Impact wrench Ti series.
--EBay rod bolt stretch gauge (spring was too weak in my ebay one)
ARP rod bolt stretch gauge (much much better than Ebay one)
EBay machinist’s micrometer set
Autozone engine stand
Used engine hoist
ATV/Motorcycle jack (great for raising/lowering tranny/block)
ARP thread sealer
Summit Racing piston ring filer
Sears craftsman piston ring compressor (does the job but i did end up breaking 1 ring out of 8 attempts)
Sears craftsman piston expander
Plastigauge - green
Hondabond-don’t mess around with cheap RTV sealant when working with engine and transmission internals
Clevite assembly lube
Copper spray for head gasket
EuroExportInc Valve spring compressor
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Rear view of the block, back from Dan Benson with the sleeves installed


Side view of block; We'll get to the stuff in the background later on...


Top View


My favorite view


Ready to chase some threads for the main bolts


Chase all 10...


Clean it up real nice


Main studs lubed up and installed


The lube of choice (better than KY)


Manley Connecting Rod with ARP 2000 bolts


Rod caps and bolts


Piston attached to rod


These wrist pins locks are a pain in the ass at first, but then you get used to it...


Time to read up on ring gapping!


More to come!
-edit- linking pictures owns me
-edit- looks like it looses the .jpg extention when I paste the URL
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Stamp of approval


Now to learn about piston rings

ring 1


pushing ring 1 down into bore


ring 1 in bore


measureing gap with feeler gauge


ring 2 (note N faces up)


Filing ring two just a little to retest gap


All done gapping the rings on this one


organizing rings with their piston


open the rings with the ring expander like this


then slide the rings on


All four have the rings on.


I used a mini screwdriver to get the rings lined up


piston ring compressor - side view


piston ring compressor - top view


put it in the piston ring compressor; note the dashes in marker for where each ring was to be oriented


crank it down to tighten the rings around the piston


drop it in the bore


tap tap


part way there; more tapping!


yay, it slid in.


repeat for the other 4


I said 4 not 3, wtf? damn, broken piston ring!


another shot of the dead ring; note the chipping on the side of it


I got a 3 cylinder!


Still just 3


I got to buy another set of rings (3 oil, 2 compression) due to that chip. $30 mistake

More to come, plastigauging is next!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
ishbog on Feb/25/09 said:
Good lord, the details. Great organization, love seeing posts up like this! rock on! with a block like that though, I'd want a slightly larger turbo! Still, it will be insane as is.

I fully understand that with 9:1 pistons, a 30r and a better IC I could make a whole lot more power, and I'm sure it will come up again. I may end up going down that road, but for now, those are not my goals. I want something that will compliment my daily driving and still be responsive for autocross events. I'll probably stay on the half bar tune most the time as a daily driver, but flip over for a highway pull or a random trip to the drags. I've never been drag racing but would like to see what time I could pull out once this build is done, atleast once.

I also do not plan on doing any race gas tuning, or use water/meth injection, which makes my 9.8:1 CR piston choice another controversial topic.
I know my build is very different than Tony the Tiger's, but hopefully it will shed some light as to the type of powerband I'm looking for. Here is a dyno from his build with roughly 10:1 CR on pump gas with Meth @18psi.



My timeline is to have her built and tuned by the end of spring, just in time to enjoy the summer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Quick update before I get into plastigauging.
Just ordered
Part No: 13346-PR3-003 or 13346-PR3-004
Desc: Bottom Main Bearing (Pink)

This should be the last bearing I need for the block. Due in on 2/28.


When I have more time, I'll be more descriptive in my posts explaning the steps and the challenges I've encountered.
 

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zodiac_00 on Feb/25/09 said:
yes another turbo teg in ct, i will see it sometime soon, wait a min i mite have already seen it once is ur car red?
Darin also had the red turbo GSR in CT.. hes been to a few meets before (midas meets and CCSU car show) Havent seen him for a while though..
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks Casey.

95integraLS003 on Feb/25/09 said:
Damn Ed! You doing it all yourself?

Have you done this before?


Ya, solo project, but recruiting a couple friends for the actual block swap part.
This is my 1st car engine project. I've played with smaller things in the past... it's just like playing with legos, except alot more measuring, re measuring, and re measuring the re measurment!
Oh, and tons of research too. Over the past 2 years or so, I've read nearly every thread here, on honda tech, evans-tuning, read Corkey Bell's "Maximum Boost" book cover to cover, and read every relevant page in my Helms (none of the LS/GS stuff).

Quote: zodiac_00 on Feb/25/09 yes another turbo teg in ct, i will see it sometime soon, wait a min i mite have already seen it once is ur car red?
nope, Mine's a black 2000 gsr. Compression rings are shot, and burning about 1qt of oil every 2 weeks= 500 miles. If you see a cloud of smoke, I'm somewhere near by...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Plastigage box - Green

strip of plastigage stuff

strip of plastigage stuff next to rod caps

rip the strip to the width you need. It looks like mint floss

measuring the mains- note the plastigage smudge on the main journals


I did this countless times...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Fed ex delivery guy called me up today saying he had a signiture required package for me. It was awesome of him to call instead of having to re-deliver. I was able to confirm permission for him to leave the package, and get it today!

Fun stuff like a Oil drain flange and a brass 1/8" NPT Tee and some vac hose. Nothing worth taking a picture of, but all needed pieces.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Got my pink bottom main bearing from Honda for journal 3, and re-plastigaged everything again.

Here are my clearances:
Rods @ ~47.5tq for proper stretch (.006)
my target: 15-18
#1 .0017
#2 .0017
#3 .0017
#4 .0016
It looked like my torque wrench was off by almost 1 line since I should have gotten .006 stretch at 45ft/lbs, so I adjusted my main stud torques a little bit.
Mains
my target: 14-17, #3 17-20
#1 .0016 @ 57.5tq
#2 .0015 @ 50tq
#3 .0018 @ 50tq
#4 .0015 @ 50tq
#5 .0016 @ 57.5tq

Just cleaned up the journals again, and almost ready for the final torque downs!
 
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