Should I sell my '01 PY ITR? - Page 2 - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
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post #15 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-31-2018, 11:08 AM
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Might as well switch back to stock ITR pistons since 9:1 compression ratio will be a huge disapoitment w/o boost.

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post #16 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-01-2018, 11:10 PM Thread Starter
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Might as well switch back to stock ITR pistons since 9:1 compression ratio will be a huge disapoitment w/o boost.
I've been driving my wife's mini van for the past 6 months... At this point, a stock RS would feel like a lambo...
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post #17 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-03-2018, 01:54 PM
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Congratulations on your decision to keep your Integra. I have been following this thread the past couple of weeks as I recently (last week), but reluctantly sold Chloe, my 2000 Acura Integra GS-R Turbo with JDM Conversion. It was painful letting her go as I was the original owner and have had countless memories over the 18 years of ownership. However, we all have different rationale and motivation for keeping or selling our beloved vehicles. I was curious to what would be your ultimate decision based on your situation and respect your choice to keep your Integra nonetheless.

Though, I miss her dearly, I am relieved of the miscellaneous factors of owning an 18 year old project car ranging from small fixes to larger upcoming maintenance requirements (timing belt and water pump). Also, it was best for us to part ways while she was still in excellent condition relative to her age and while she still retained value having only 75k original miles on the entire vehicle and zero rust. We could have played the whole "let's see what she's worth in another 10-20 years" game, but there is zero guarantee that I would still have her in that time (accident, theft, etc.). She was 99% garage kept and was barely driven, started up every two weeks to keep the battery fresh and internal fluids cycled, but was definitely not being appreciated and driven as she should. Not to mention, daily driving an 18 year old, lowered, turbocharged and highly attention grabbing Integra was just not practical for me anymore. Lastly, at 38 years of age, she no longer suited my stage in life, career and lifestyle.

Despite my rationale for selling, Chloe, was my first brand new car and that is something that will never be lost and forgotten. So, while you can, enjoy yours to its full extent, as Integra are now a rarity. May you two have many more years of amazing memories!

On the bright side, Chloe was replaced with Elise.

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post #18 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-03-2018, 08:17 PM Thread Starter
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Congratulations on your decision to keep your Integra. I have been following this thread the past couple of weeks as I recently (last week), but reluctantly sold Chloe, my 2000 Acura Integra GS-R Turbo with JDM Conversion. It was painful letting her go as I was the original owner and have had countless memories over the 18 years of ownership. However, we all have different rationale and motivation for keeping or selling our beloved vehicles. I was curious to what would be your ultimate decision based on your situation and respect your choice to keep your Integra nonetheless.

Though, I miss her dearly, I am relieved of the miscellaneous factors of owning an 18 year old project car ranging from small fixes to larger upcoming maintenance requirements (timing belt and water pump). Also, it was best for us to part ways while she was still in excellent condition relative to her age and while she still retained value having only 75k original miles on the entire vehicle and zero rust. We could have played the whole "let's see what she's worth in another 10-20 years" game, but there is zero guarantee that I would still have her in that time (accident, theft, etc.). She was 99% garage kept and was barely driven, started up every two weeks to keep the battery fresh and internal fluids cycled, but was definitely not being appreciated and driven as she should. Not to mention, daily driving an 18 year old, lowered, turbocharged and highly attention grabbing Integra was just not practical for me anymore. Lastly, at 38 years of age, she no longer suited my stage in life, career and lifestyle.

Despite my rationale for selling, Chloe, was my first brand new car and that is something that will never be lost and forgotten. So, while you can, enjoy yours to its full extent, as Integra are now a rarity. May you two have many more years of amazing memories!

On the bright side, Chloe was replaced with Elise.



Ultimately, I decided to keep her because she is still under 100k, and while I would like to keep her garaged she is my dd... Selling her would've just meant buying another dd that I probably would've hated and then realizing I made a mistake... needing a reliable car I decided to pull the turbo and go back to stock ecu and injectors, I no longer need the power and I just want to drive her, just hoping she starts right up when I finish putting her back together either tomorrow or next weekend.
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post #19 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-05-2018, 11:33 AM
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UPDATE: So I decided to keep her and took the advice of many... over the past few weeks I have been rebuilding little by little... took the head to a machine shop and 2 exhaust valves were burnt, which I considered best case scenario... In the process of taking her apart I also decided to remove the turbo and go from 426HP back down to stockish HP. It's going to be like a kick in the nuts as She is still fully built but I will be running stock ECU and injectors, and sell off the turbo setup (Precision SC61 turbo with little play, Tial wastegate and BOV, manifold, downpipe, dump pipe, etc...) and AEM EMS V2 in order to offset the cost of fixing her back up plus parts... besides, she will be more reliable which is what I need and I'll still be able to drive and cruise as she was originally intended... maybe in the future I'll get a Hondata with bluetooth and tinker with her NA style for some fun. I got my requisition orders and will be PCSing (Army move) to Fort Leavenworth, KS so at least I'll have a nice ride to and from work... Thanks for the motivation guys!!!
welcome to KS. im not far from where you will be, rocking a k-swapped da9 myself

i had my original gsr stolen so i can empathize.
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post #20 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-12-2018, 10:12 PM Thread Starter
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So I got her up and running yesterday!!! But the joy was short lived with all the minor bs that comes with going back to "stock" parts... I was running an AEM 5 bar wideband, so I changed it back to stock... I'm throwing both primary and secondary O2 cel codes, and as of today cel codes for misfires on cyl 1,2,3... I bought a test pipe so no secondary, so I might have to bite another bullet and get a cat, and I ordered 2 O2 sensors yesterday... This afternoon when I started her up I smoked out the parking lot with white smoke and rich fuel smell... I put stock injectors back on but I still have a Walbro 255 fuel pump and fpr, which I haven't checked to see what my current pressure is, which I'm hoping will be the reason for the smoke and richness... Air/fuel ratio is at 12.1/1 at idle... I'm all ears for any input, I'm trying to juggle school, tests, family life and research all at the same time, so feel free to chime in if it'll save me some extra time trying to do the research, andif you're bored, have time, and would like to help out... Thanks again to all, and as soon as i figure out how to add pics and have a sec to breath, I will...

Next day check:
My fuel pressure gauge is reading 54psi with and without vacuum... It should be 38-46psi with and 47-54 without vacuum... But when i pinch the vacuum, my gauge stays at 54psi and adjusting the fpra full 360 didn't change anything... Bad gauge, fpr, or high flow non adjustable fuel pump?

FPR was stuck at 54psi, tapped it hard a few times and was able to bring the pressure down...

Then... WORST CASE SCENARIO happened... I did a leak down test... Same issue that I had at the beginning of this whole ordeal... Big Leak (I didn't even bother checking %'s) in cylinders 1,2&4... I also noticed it appears I'm slowly losing coolant...

Quick recap: machine shop said the head wasn't warped and I had 2 burnt valves which I replaced... we filled the cylinders with oil all pistons centered and it took 2 weeks to fully drain (Darton sleeves... CP pistons and rings have ~5k miles)... My car runs like crap 80% of the time, then out of nowhere she runs great... I'm misfiring on cylinders 1,2&3 (new distributor and plugs), leak down only held pressure on cylinder 3, I have white smoke and appear to be losing coolant but I've only driven a total of about 30 miles since putting her back together, so I can't tell with certainty. I took the valve cover off and rechecked timing marks at TDC. Also, not sure if it matters... my heater won't blow hot air, it's warm at best... I'm thinking the heater cite but maybe someone can tie all of this mess together for a better diagnosis? What are the odds of a warped block without a warped head? At this point I think I'm going to use K&W FiberLock block and gasket sealer and see if that does it...

Last edited by Jester14; 02-13-2018 at 10:01 PM.
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post #21 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-25-2018, 01:41 AM Thread Starter
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Well today i started the disassembly process AGAIN...
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post #22 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-25-2018, 03:09 AM
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Damn dude, sorry to hear the challenges your currently going thru. Stay patient man and best of luck!

- DM
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post #23 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-25-2018, 01:38 PM Thread Starter
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So as I'm in the process of disassembling the motor, I got to thinking... I'm back to NA, not looking to be racing, just need a nice reliable car that I love to drive. I'm back to the original p73 ecu (not chipped), and essentially going back to 'stock' even though the motor is fully built. I currently have a jdm B18C with Darton sleeves, ERL guard block, and the block was prepared by ERL performance... However, I still have the original b18c5 that belongs to the car in storage... Even though I'm going to be driving easy from here on, I still like the idea of having just about a bullet proof block, but the more I think about it, I'm debating if I should just drop in the original block, which was pulled around 30k miles... I've dumped a lot of money trying to get her back up and running since she was stolen and even though I'd like to drop in stock itr pistons and rods, I can't justify the expense without getting a divorce, especially since I dropped in new CP pistons (9.18:1 CR) and Eagle H Beam rods (length: 5.430) 1k miles ago since I was boosting 26psi back then...

My biggest concern right now is: with the lower compression pistons, is that going to cause my car to run like s*** given the stock ecu map / Will it cause long term problems? If I end up finding an amazing deal on itr pistons would I have to get the rods milled since they're 5.430" and stock rods are 5.429" or will it not make a mechanical difference?
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post #24 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-24-2018, 08:53 AM Thread Starter
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I decided to drop the stock block back in with new pistons, rings, bearings etc...

Update with quick recap:

I finally got my motor put back together and we fired her up on a fresh rebuild for about a minute and turned it off because the cel came on with cel code 71 and 72... before the rebuild I was running an AEM EMS V2 and boosting but the car was stolen and run hard. they burnt 2 valves and created some blow by. I tore down the head and decided to go back to "stockish" and NA with the original ECU (I have never used it, it came with the car when I bought it), and replaced the RC injectors and clips with refurbished injectors and clips from a junkyard that appeared in good condition (there is continuity between the ground wires on the 4 clips but I only get a quick signal when testing continuity to chassis, and they all read 12V during priming).
I was having some misfiring (same cylinders and it progressed to all cylinders) after fixing the head and the car was running like crap so I decided to tear it completely down; I replaced the JDM sleeved block i had with the original block (took it to a machine shop to get cleaned and honed), new pistons, rings, etc... and here I am...

Update: after a leak down test, there was air coming out of the intake on cylinders 1&2 and after hours of banging our heads against the wall it occurred to my buddy to check the valve lash... They were SUPER TIGHT... My buddy adjusted the valve lash without the appropriate tool and the cel codes went away, however, now I have a code 1 & there's a really loud clacking as if the valves were just slapping around... Ordered the tool and going to attempt to re-lash today... It seems maybe the ecu is good...

Update: we re-adjusted the valves with the proper tool (they were WAY out of spec) my buddy couldn't believe how bad they were considering he did it the night prior... Most of the clattering is gone but there is still a slight clatter... Now we have 2 codes, p1399 which I'm assuming is from whichever valve is still clattering & p0132 which I still have no idea, but I haven't done anything with the o2 sensors yet, which is my next step after double checking valve lash again...

I'm open to suggestions
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post #25 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-12-2018, 10:59 PM Thread Starter
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SOLVED - P0312 Cel code 01: IN CASE ANYONE ELSE COMES ACROSS THIS ISSUE IN THE FUTURE!!!

After an INSANE amount of troubleshooting and headaches after the car was stolen and having to rebuild because they screwed up the motor... the issue ended up being the AEM Wideband... THAT'S IT!!! I went from an AEM EMS back to stock ECU and the wideband was tapped into one of the wires on the ECU which I'm assuming was creating a minor difference in Voltage causing the ECU to get false readings which in turn was over compensating and causing irregular driving issues... All I had to do was disconnect that wire and problem solved and the AEM UEGO still gives me the AFR.

NOW no more cel codes but I still have the idle issue: When the motor is cold the first few mins it runs great, idles at 800 RPM and no issues, but after the motor warms up if there is no load on the engine (i.e if I'm not driving or AC is off), the moment I press the clutch and go in neutral the car turns off. It starts right back up with no issues but idles between 400-600 RPM
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post #26 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-13-2018, 08:39 PM
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Dude, that's great news! Glad to hear you are still working thru all the kinks....rock on man 🤙
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post #27 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-15-2018, 04:22 AM
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Hows It running? Leavenworth is so close to me, welcome to KS when you come here!
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post #28 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-21-2018, 11:50 PM Thread Starter
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Hows It running? Leavenworth is so close to me, welcome to KS when you come here!
Thanks... car is running great. I got all issues solved and taken care of...
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