I had the same thought process. I was hoping that was it, but it wasn't. At least it is properly lubricated now though and moves much easier.
Get ready for a whole bunch of text.....
So, I spent a lot of my Saturday and Sunday troubleshooting different things with this car. First, I started with the AC stuff. I rented a set of gauges from AutoZone to hopefully get a little more accurate. Here were the temps, but it was definitely at least 80 in my garage.
I started out by running the car for about 10 minutes with the windows up and the AC on full blast. This was the lowest the temp would go.
So next with the car still running and the AC on, I started feeling the AC lines. The ones that are circled blue were freezing, the ones that are circled red were warm but not hot. This is probably at around 15 minutes of the car running now. So, it looks like the low pressure lines were all freezing and the high pressure lines were warm. I obviously couldn't get to the ones going to the evaporator.
So next I hooked up the gauges.
Here they are with the car running:
And after I shut the car off and left the gauges connected.
I know enough about AC stuff to be dangerous, but I'm trying to learn more. I'm at a loss, it seems like the pressures are right for the given outside temperatures, and the air is cooler than it is outside the car, but it definitely is not as cold as it is supposed to be. If anyone has any other ideas of where I should keep looking, please let me know.
So then I moved onto the stuck in open loop issue. I replaced the oxygen sensor, and the car runs way better. The old sensor (old as in has about 6K miles on it...) was completely black. I'm wondering now if this car was ever getting into closed loop last year now. So after i replaced the sensor I took the car for a drive and through it back on the scanner again. While the car is running much better, it is still not getting into closed loop mode.
I read about making sure the TPS is in spec, so i tested that out again. It is out of spec every so slightly, i'm not sure if this is enough to cause an issue or let alone the closed loop issue i am having. To keep the closed throttle body value in spec, the WOT value ended up being a tad over the 4.5 limit. Does anyone think this is out of spec enough that I should replace the sensor? After adjusting the sensor as much as I could, WOT value was somewhere around 4.65, but the closed throttle was at something like 0.34, and I thought that would give me idle issues so I did not leave it like that.
I don't think it is an issue with the coolant temp sensor, because I am getting readings on my scanner. Again, I am at a loss of what to check next. What sensors/car parts would control if the car goes into closed loop or not besides what was already mentioned? I;m going to test for voltage etc.. at the oxygen sensors next, but I suspect they are getting voltage otherwise there would be a CEL showing up. Whatever it is that is wrong with the car, its not enough to throw a CEL code. If anyone can help with where to go next, please do...I need help!
So, after feeling defeated, I needed to go for a drive and take a pretty picture lol.