danteisme's 1996 DB8-Found and Rebuild Thread - Page 44 - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
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post #603 of 713 (permalink) Old 06-14-2018, 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by dpaton View Post
Uh.....no. Don't put WD40 on brakes. Aside from being flammable, it's not a nice thing for the bedding compounds on pads.

Brake discs are cast iron. The only way to keep them from rusting is to drive, or pull them off and pack them in oil or cosmoline.
I just meant for storage purposes. I have no problems w/ my rotors getting this way, after a few brake cycles it's gone. Again, I know it works, but I do not know the long term effects.

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i actually just picked up some new to me door panels, so i have 2 sets now. one with factory tan leather, the other with my botched black leather lol

and thanks! its definitely my favorite thing!

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post #604 of 713 (permalink) Old 06-18-2018, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by danteisme View Post
The green bulb is the one that powers the light under the fog lights symbol when the light is activated. I cant find the bulb for the "running light" of the fog light switch. The one that lights up the symbol. I'm assuming i have to take apart the switch?

The light you seek is on the end of the "brown" connector, close to the harness plug for the switch. It should pull straight out. I've not found a good led replacement for this light yet. Ordered from my local Honda dealer for a couple of switches in mine.

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post #605 of 713 (permalink) Old 06-18-2018, 11:34 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by atkinsonar View Post
The light you seek is on the end of the "brown" connector, close to the harness plug for the switch. It should pull straight out. I've not found a good led replacement for this light yet. Ordered from my local Honda dealer for a couple of switches in mine.
good to know, sounds like this will be staying a standard light bulb for now.

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post #606 of 713 (permalink) Old 06-25-2018, 11:42 AM Thread Starter
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Got some good work done on the car. Installed the hondahabit oil pan gasket, the oil cooler o-ring, the new ac compressor, condenser, ac dryer, replaced 2 broken ac lines, and replaced all of the o-rings in the system. items left to finish on the car - change out evaporator core, re-install exhaust manifold, install fenders, install jdm foglights to new front bumper, install new front bumper, align fenders and hood, inspection and ac recharge. i'm shooting to have everything but the inspection and ac recharge done by this time next week.

i'm still battling an annoying problem. when i took this picture, there was no oil in the system. the only oil present would have been whatever was on the o-ring of the oil filter, and whatever was on the oil cooler bolt. i keep getting this dot of oil showing up at the bottom of the cooler. i wiped this off twice now and a few hours later it shows up again. i've replaced the o-ring to the cooler, i'm not sure how oil keeps getting here (kinda hard to see in the pic, but there is a dark dot there)
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post #607 of 713 (permalink) Old 06-28-2018, 08:24 AM Thread Starter
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Me and this car are gonna fight.... Newly installed hondahabit gasket, torqued to spec and left to dry for 24 hours like the instructions stated. Filled the car with fresh oil yesterday, come out today to check on the car and this is what i find...


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post #608 of 713 (permalink) Old 06-29-2018, 02:19 AM
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The oil coolers are notorious for dripping from/at the welds of the bracket. I've seen this a few times. My remedy? Buy a new one hehe. I love the MHB oil pan gasket, so worth it. No dolled up fail-pro for this guy, eh eh.
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post #609 of 713 (permalink) Old 06-30-2018, 08:18 PM Thread Starter
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. I love the MHB oil pan gasket, so worth it. No dolled up fail-pro for this guy, eh eh.
Is it possible to overtighten the MHB gasket?
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post #610 of 713 (permalink) Old 07-02-2018, 09:35 AM Thread Starter
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I'll be checking the oil pan again today after work.* i reset my torque wrench (still using the 1/4" drive) and went back around the bolts again.* All but 3 clicked immediately and the three that needed to be tightened a bit more didnt take much to meet spec.* so i wiped the pan down again and we'll see what happens.

I got a ton of work done on the car, car should be on the road this upcoming weekend as long as the oil pan plays nicely.* The windshield area rust repair really set me back with all of that extra work i was anticipating.* I finished up the AC work this weekend - replaced all of the o-rings, new compressor, new evap core, new dryer, new condensor, etc..., finished putting the interior back together, mounted the fenders and hood loosely so i can adjust gaps, buffed a couple of scratches nearly 100% out of my new to me bumper, installed 2 kill switches for fuel and ignition, had to fix my power door lock security mod because a relay crapped out, polished up the headlights, and a few miscellaneous things i cleaned up in the car overall.**

Items left to complete - reinstall exhaust manifold, reinstall fender liners and splash guard, transfer jdm fog lights and ITR type lip from the old bumper to the new bumper,adjust the gaps on the fenders, hood and bumper, and that should be it.* of course, this is all pending the oil plan wanting to play nicely.**

Then off to inspection and to get the a/c recharged and then be good to go!


And this was such a huge fail.* I saw this CD on ebay and i thought this looks pretty cool, but it didnt have a track listing at all shown in the ad.* i took a gamble at $5, i thought it is an acura luxury cd....maybe it has some jazz or some classical or something.* I get down with some jazz and classical music every now and then.* But no, this collection of music is much much worse.....FAIL on my part.


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post #611 of 713 (permalink) Old 07-02-2018, 10:24 PM
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Is it possible to overtighten the MHB gasket?
Yes, but if you followed TQ spec and sequence you should be ok.
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post #612 of 713 (permalink) Old 07-03-2018, 09:04 PM Thread Starter
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Is it possible to overtighten the MHB gasket?
Yes, but if you followed TQ spec and sequence you should be ok.
I’m assuming I can’t remove the pan and do this installation again. Like, once it is torqued that’s it. The pan is still leaking, the car hasn’t even ran with it yet. So I can just imagine how much worse it will be with pressure.
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post #613 of 713 (permalink) Old 07-05-2018, 01:39 PM Thread Starter
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had the car running yesterday, i let it run long enough for the fans to cycle on twice.* the pan is still wet but there was nothing dripping or leaking....so i'm going to say screw it and just send it for now.* I have to respray the lip because of a slight issue i created yesterday.* after I install that, i just need to install the front bumper and adjust the fenders and hood.
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post #614 of 713 (permalink) Old 07-10-2018, 01:37 AM
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I was about to say, a pan can't leak w/out the car starting. A pan leaks because the excess crankcase pressure is finding the fastest way out; this usually occurs car off, after usage.
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post #615 of 713 (permalink) Old 07-10-2018, 12:04 PM Thread Starter
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I was about to say, a pan can't leak w/out the car starting. A pan leaks because the excess crankcase pressure is finding the fastest way out; this usually occurs car off, after usage.
I was and am still very confused by it. The front of the pan is still wet with some oil collecting, and this is up on jackstands too. So the majority of the oil should be at the rear of the pan anyways. And that area of the pan is very dry.
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post #616 of 713 (permalink) Old 07-12-2018, 12:31 AM
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Check your head gasket tab, is there a puddle of oil there? if so, it maybe cam seal, VC gasket, or the infamous solenoid gasket.
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