danteisme's 1996 DB8-Found and Rebuild Thread - Page 38 - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
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post #519 of 715 (permalink) Old 04-10-2017, 10:00 AM Thread Starter
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I got the hood and such to line up as good as it's gonna get, not too happy with it. At some point down the road, i'm going to need to install a new core support. if i stay 94-97 front end, that will obviously be the cheapest route. But there is always that JDM font option. Either way, its fine for now.

i need to investigate a fuel leak i found when jacking the car up. I'm suspecting the fuel tank seam is leaking now that there is actually more than 3 gallons of gas in the tank. bah! as soon as my parts show up, i'll be able to finish this wiring issue at the ECU and get this car on the road to get inspected and aligned.

1996 DB8 Bought 2003--->Sold 2010--->Bought Back May 2014 Restoration in Process!!
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post #520 of 715 (permalink) Old 04-22-2017, 10:58 PM Thread Starter
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there is a good bit i forgot to update in here, but there is where i'm at right now. so i spent about 90 minutes finishing up my wiring. I still haven't routed the mess back up under the dashboard yet, that is going to be a major pain in the ass. then i went to the driver's side and went to fire the car up. a few small hiccups aside, she runs on all 4 cylinders no matter which way i pull the wires, and is throwing one check engine light for the 02 sensor that isnt there yet.

here is the car running.


errrr, no wait a minute. it was just here.



ha! i drove it to the parking pad. and then i got ballsy and drove it about 1/2 mile up the road to the local grocery store and then back to the house. it was so great lol. runs very smooth, shifts like butter, no over heating, brakes and clutch pedal felt good, but the ride was a tad shaky though. i have no kind of an alignment at all right now since i completely stripped the entire suspension off this car during the rebuild. But it was quite nice to take that short illegal drive. It hasn't been inspected in almost 3 years now, so thats the main reason i kept the ride short.

a few things to note:
i have coolant seeps at the upper rad hose on both ends. i dunno how this is, i doubled up on the hose clamps and it is still seeping. thoughts?

coolant seep at the block from the rad hose


​​​​​​​
coolant seep at the rad



when i first started the car, the abs pump buzzed non -stop for about 90 seconds and then quit. when i started the car from the parking pad to make my quick trip, it did the same thing. i just pulledthe relay for now, any ideas why it's doing that?

I need to do something about this alignment before i take the car anywhere far and that requires a speed limit of over 30 mph lol. I've been doing some research on DIY alignments just so i can get something manageable on the road. But all of the articles i found stated lining up the front while referencing the rear tire positions. well, what do you do if you pulled the entire underside of the car off and then put all new back on and have nothing to reference? *There has to be something i can do to get this tolerable.

so, on to the remaining list (for this year anyway). Most likely in this order - change out the fuel tank, take the car to the muffler shop and get the catalytic converter fitted to the car so i can pass inspection, go get the car inspected and aligned, then finish some little things and drive and work out whatever bugs will be showing up as things settle in. Little things would include power window motor replacement, install new door plastics, fix broken rear door handle, install kill switches, replace ac compressor, and i'm sure other little things here and there i'll think about. Still trying to track down a replacement quarter panel for the driver's side.
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post #521 of 715 (permalink) Old 05-01-2017, 10:05 PM Thread Starter
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fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu

...i was making so much progress until tonight. *i had an appt setup for tomorrow to get my cat welded up for the exhaust but i had to cancel it. i'll get to that in a minute though. *so work completed this weekend:ecu mounting, fuel tank swap, misc.odds and ends, repainted the timing marks, re-set the ignition timing, double checked the suspension bolts to make sure they were all tight, and removed the hood for easier access for abs system bleeding.

this car goes up and down of these jack stands too much


this transmission jack makes this job so much easier. *i also like how the oem tank has a drain plug, the aftermarket one i purchased does not...


old tank out


new tank in


ECU mounted and i somehow tucked this wire mess up under the dash.


Re-painted the timing marks so i could see something with the timing light.


oh, i also rattle canned my "type r" lip with the same ford color i painted the engine bay with. *As close as i'm gonna get to cypress green pearl for now without paying $20 an aerosol can


then fast forward to tonight. *i had to get the lip on the car (well didnt have to but i wanted to) and i had to get the car back down on the ground. *I did the lip first and then proceeded to lower the car back to earth. *because it is on 6 ton jackstands, i had to lower it in 2 stages so the car wouldnt fall. *so i lowered the whole car to the point that it was sitting on 3 ton jack stands on the lowest setting. *then as i jacked the front of the car up and moved to go remove the jackstands, i heard this pssshhhh and teh car came crashing down...nearly pinning my freakin hand between the jackstand and the car. *so i get up front and the floor jack is stuck now on the exhaust manifold. *great...i get my other jack and work the car back up so i can remove my now junk 3 ton floor jack and i use my not so good floorjack to lower the car the rest of the way. *then take the obligatory picture, its running in this picture.



and this is when i notice i smell coolant. *i get closer to the car and i see this


See the radiator holders? *when the car fell, it wasnt the manifold the jack hit, it was the stupid radiator. *you know, the one i just installed and has like 1 mile on it....

oh yeah, there is coolant leaking out where the metal meets the plastic


so i will need to order another rad, replace it, then reschedule my appt with the shop doing my catalytic converter install. *ugh, so close.
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post #522 of 715 (permalink) Old 05-01-2017, 10:16 PM
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Mother Fuck.

How old was the jack? I've thought about that type of thing before with my 15-20 year old jack.

Do me a favor.From now on don't care what other people think about your car. Do what YOU want to your car. Who gives a damn what other people think about it.
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post #523 of 715 (permalink) Old 05-02-2017, 08:03 AM Thread Starter
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its actually not that old, i wanna say 7-8 years maybe? i checked for any external leaks and i didnt see any. i'll have to take a closer look at what happened.
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post #524 of 715 (permalink) Old 05-04-2017, 10:41 AM Thread Starter
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well, the jack coming down is my fault. I didn't properly maintain my floor jack and it looks like a bunch of dirt and debris over the years finally got in where the u-joint and gears are that release the the jack to the lowering position. It looks like because of that debris finally working its way in there it prevented me from fully locking the jack in the "raise" position. So, definitely make sure you keep that area clean to avoid a sh*t my pants moment!
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post #525 of 715 (permalink) Old 05-07-2017, 09:54 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, I now have 16 miles on the car since getting the car back together lol.

swapping the radiator out again...




Then I installed the new one, got the system filled up and let the car run for a while. Fast forward to today and I decided I really needed to get some miles on the car and see what/if any issues there could be. So far, there are 3 issues (besides an alignment).

My volts are all over the place. It will read about 14.6 volts, then shoot down to about 12.5 and seems to bounce between the two. During my 16 mile trip, I stopped at autozone to get an alternator check. Alternator checked out good, but battery checked low. Sort of concerning, its been on a trickle charger forever now. I thought it would have been maintained better. As I was getting ready to leave, an "old school mechanic" (I know this because he told me that is what he was lol) told me his surefire way to determine if it is a battery or an alternator issue. He said fire up the vehicle, turn on every light, turn on the defrosters, turn on the radio and turn on the heater. Then, go disconnect the negative terminal on the battery. If the car stays running, the alternator is good. If it don't, then the alternator is bad. I don't know how much truth there is to this, but I tried it and my car stayed running. After my 16 mile jaunt, I took the car home and put it on the charger again.



After the green light kicked on, I threw on my volt meter. I'm not sure how typical this is, but about every 3 - 5 seconds, i was losing 1 or 2 hundredths on the volt meter. That seems like it is discharging pretty quickly. Maybe time for another battery...

So onto the next issue. The car did this twice to me. I was accelerating up a hill and it just started sputtering really bad. I gave it gas and it just hesitated sputtered and wouldn't go any faster. I thought oh crap, this is how my drive is gonna end. So i pulled over and I'm watching my VAFC and the rpms are fluctuating around 500-550. The volts dropped way down too, then all of the sudden the car righted itself and ran flawlessly for another few miles and then it did it once again. Now, I am currently running a test pipe without the secondary O2 sensor. It does smell very rich, i'm not sure if without the sensor there it is running in a very rich condition and it is "flooding" itself out? I'll know for sure once i get my appt this week to get the new cat installed. Also, i checked for any CELs both times the car had its quick fit, and no new codes appeared. Right now it is only throwing one code, and it is for the O2 sensor that is not currently present.

And the last issue. I am hearing some creaks and pops from the front end somewhere. I'm not going to be overly concerned with it at the moment. As all the new suspension breaks in and I get my alignment, maybe these issues will work them selves out. If not, I'll have to get back under the car and see whats going on. I already checked all of my bolts, everything seems tight.

So all in all, today was a lot of fun. I did rip into vtec and the secondaries twice. Oh I did definitely miss that lol.
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post #526 of 715 (permalink) Old 05-10-2017, 08:15 PM Thread Starter
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I dropped the car off tonight to get the cat exhaust work done. The car ran great up until it was at operating temperature for a few miles. Then it started to bog really bad and sputter and random points in the rpm and if i pushed the gas harder it would eventually work itself out of it. I pulled over and plugged in my scanner, no codes besides the O2 sensor that isn't there and no pending codes. Hopefully with the cat and the other sensor will fix this code. the exhaust does smell very VERY rich, not sure if that is from only one O2 sensor or not.
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post #527 of 715 (permalink) Old 05-14-2017, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
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I picked up the teg Friday after work from the local shop that fabbed up my catalytic converter for me. The price was a little higher than i was expecting, but it looks great. It looks like it came that way from the factory. I'll have to snap a better picture of it next time i'm under the car. The set up isnt perfect, but that would be my fault for getting a 2.5" universal OBD2 cat. The placement of the O2 sensor port is a little weird, they messed with it for about 3 hours to get the placement right so the sensor and the wires didn't interfere with anything. So i picked up the car, and i brought one of my co-pilots with me:



The car sounds SO much better with a cat, the exhaust is still a little loud, but not nearly as annoying as before. Once the car warmed up to operating temperatures, it did the weird misfire thing and would eventually work itself out of it. I had a hard time believing it was the O2 sensor since its new, but i decided to unplug the primary sensor to see what would happen. Obviously it through a CEL for the sensor, but it did not do the weird misfire thing again. So, possibly bad sensor? I'm going to double check my wiring where i wired in the A/F gauge to make sure that connection is good. If that connection is good and if i test drive it again and it misfires again, I'll order a new primary O2 sensor.

Also, i finally preloaded the suspension (i don't know how i didnt realize this was a needed thing when doing this much suspension work). That was a royal pain in the ass lol. *But, everything feels much much better now. *I found one bolt i didn't tighten, so that explains the clanking i heard up front. *After preloading the suspension, The car now sits correctly. *


so hopefully no working OT this week and i can narrow down the possible sensor issue tomorrow so i can grab a new sensor if need be and get this thing legal this week.
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post #528 of 715 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 09:11 AM Thread Starter
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I forgot to update this. I plugged the O2 sensor back in and disconnected the A/F gauge. I drove for about 15 miles and had zero issues. So the gauge must have had a bad connection at the wire. Just to verify, the o2 sensor wire i want to be tapping is the large white wire on the "d" plug of the ecu, correct? I can't recall what pin # it is, but i think it is the only white wire on that plug.

The car gets dropped off of for state inspection and for a four wheel alignment next Tuesday, so after that i can start driving (legally) as much as I want. I'm going to keep my trips short for now to sort out any possible issues. Since i basically disassembled the entire car minus a few items, after how many miles should I get back under the car and go over all of the bolts to make sure they are tight?
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post #529 of 715 (permalink) Old 05-21-2017, 04:33 PM Thread Starter
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I moved the car out of the garage so i could do a good cleaning of the garage. I also took the opportunity to wash the car and get some of the crap that has just fallen and laid on it for the last 3 years. Couple quick pics outside:





I;m still fighting this leak....I dont think it is coming out of the hose, I think it is coming from the fitting. I'm wondering if i need a new hose to block piece?


I also went to clean up the interior a bit, get all of the dust and debris out of there. I saw a bunch of specs on the dashboard. These are from when i used a flap disc to grind out all of the undercoating in the car. It splattered all over the dash. I tried purple power, I tried goo gone, and I tried a couple of other cleaners. This stuff won't come off. The goo gone actually took some of the shine out of the dash, so I do not want to use that anymore. Any ideas on how to get these guys off?

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post #530 of 715 (permalink) Old 05-25-2017, 08:28 AM Thread Starter
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I scored some parts from a guy parting out a DC2. i got a new oem hood, new oem front bumper with turn signals and the bumper mounting brackets, and the front core support. The hood is in way, WAY better shape than mine, same with the bumper. and for the price i paid for all 3, i couldnt pass up new oem parts. it was dark and rainy, so i couldnt quite tell the color. they are either clover green pearl or cypress green pearl.
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post #531 of 715 (permalink) Old 05-25-2017, 09:01 PM
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post #532 of 715 (permalink) Old 05-31-2017, 06:57 AM Thread Starter
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One quick pic. Got about 250 miles on the car now since the project began. Taking her to work again today, and probably for the rest of the week.

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