danteisme's 1996 DB8-Found and Rebuild Thread - Page 36 - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
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post #491 of 715 (permalink) Old 01-26-2017, 01:28 AM
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You're not alone. Once passion, joy, and a time lapse happen I'm sure we all eventually hit a snowball point. The best news is, you'll know w/out a doubt this car is "SOUND."

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post #492 of 715 (permalink) Old 01-30-2017, 12:08 PM Thread Starter
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well, that was a short lived victory. i tested for spark over the weekend to make sure i was getting spark at all 4 plugs and indeed i am. next i wanted to fire up the car and "listen" to the injectors to make sure all 4 were ticking and also to get a timing light on the car. well, that would have worked if the car would have fired up. i messed with it for about 30 minutes and the best i could get was a chug from the motor about every 4 rotations while cranking. i know i'm getting spark and i could smell fuel.

so, i think at this point, i will try to get it to fire with a fully charged battery some evening after work. if i can get it to fire, i will get a timing light on the motor and check that. if i cannot get it to fire, i'll proceed with re-checking my work in the cylinder head. i'd like to run a compression test on the motor to see if i am getting something ridiculous for a number, that would prove something is not synced as it should with the work i did in the head. BUT, the results will be off anyways because i cannot get the motor up to operating temps if it wont run lol.

i also need to re-bleed the brakes i think. when the car was running for that short period of time, the brake pedal instantly went to the floor. i'm thinking when the abs motor pressurized it kicked some more air into the lines. bah. one step head, 2 or 3 steps back.

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post #493 of 715 (permalink) Old 02-02-2017, 01:15 PM Thread Starter
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bah, i was really hoping for a timing issue. *like a timing belt alignment issue or by some miracle i put the distributor in 180 out. *no such luck...

hard to see in this pic but the white line and the alignment tab on the cover is within a millimeter or so of each other. that should be within spec, right?


cam gears



and distributor pointing at cylinder 1


dammit, i was really hoping to find the issue digging this far into the car. *i will note though that when i pulled the spark plugs, plug 1 reeked of fuel and was all black. *the others looked fine.
i guess i'm diving back into the head to back check all of my work with the lost motion assembly install. *i'm not sure if i'll find anything, but i guess it doesnt hurt to go back through the motions again. *

in summary, the car ran weird for a total of about 20 minutes, now i have a no start condition but i have spark and fuel present. *what should i look for next?
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post #494 of 715 (permalink) Old 02-02-2017, 02:37 PM
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post #495 of 715 (permalink) Old 02-02-2017, 03:14 PM Thread Starter
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I think i checked all of them. The valve cover, transmission, the one at the thermostat, and obviously the battery ground itself. Am i missing any?
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post #496 of 715 (permalink) Old 02-02-2017, 09:12 PM Thread Starter
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so, i ran a cold compression test. *my results when i bought the car back (cant remember if it was cold, warm or otherwise) was*205-205-205-210 and the car ran flawlessly engine and transmission wise the entire 2 hour trip home. no smoking, no lack of power etc...

today the cold compression tests shows:*
cylinder 1: 175
cylinder 2: 180ish+
cylinder 3: 180ish+
cylinder 4: 185.

i had purchased a leakdown tester when i bought the car back but i never tested it. *so i tried it out for the first time today. *didnt go so well... *i followed a diy i found, and the cylinder 1 is showing 65% and i can feel air coming out of cylinder 2. *so i moved on to cylinder 2 and i'm getting between 5 and 10% on the leakdown. *i went to move on to cylinder 3, and the bastard adapter separated from the tester and is still threaded into the spark plug chamber....ugh. *how do i get this out so i can finish my testing?

and the fact that the car ran perfect before i really tore into the cylinder head with my Lost motion assembly install leads me to believe that i did something incorrectly. *thoughts on air coming out of cylinder 2? *and ideas on removing the stupid adapter piece from the kit out of my spark plug chamber?? i'd like to finish my testing lol
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post #497 of 715 (permalink) Old 02-02-2017, 11:24 PM
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Best suggestion for getting it out... put a dab of some sort of loc tite on the piece you have in hand... thread it back in as best you can to the piece in the block / head, let it rest, and hopefully it'll unthread with it.

Cold compression tests don't seem that unreasonable. I don't have experience doing leak downs to explain what you're seeing / hearing.

If you didn't separate the head from the block, I wouldn't expect much to change from "how it was before". Hopefully you're just missing something small. From the prior post, sounds like you've got all your grounds covered as far as the engine bay is concerned.

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post #498 of 715 (permalink) Old 02-03-2017, 01:12 PM Thread Starter
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its gotta be something stupid i'm missing and probably looked at 1000 times by now. so frustrating. Once i get that stupid adapter out, i'll go back through all of the motions and really pay attention to what i'm doing.
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post #499 of 715 (permalink) Old 02-06-2017, 01:21 PM Thread Starter
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Alright, weird weekend of working on the car. I did successfully get the tester adapter out of the car. By dumb luck, a 3/8 extension fit in there pretty snug and i was able to just use that to get the tool out. Next, i turned to the valvetrain. I removed the cam caps, distributor, and cams just like i did before when i replaced the LMAs.







I'm not sure if I'm going to tear this down any further. I was reviewing all of the components and LUCKILY Honda makes it pretty fool proof. You can't install these things wrong. I was concerned maybe I installed something backwards or somehow i installed the cam gear upside down on the cam and it was making something act like it was 180 degrees out or something along those lines. It looks like it is impossible to do that. I could be wrong, but that it was I have gathered. I double checked the rockers, all of the outer rockers are fixed like they should be and all of the middle rockers for the vtec lobes all move independently of the outer ones. So it looks like I put all of those back correctly too. Am I missing something else I should be checking before I start to reassemble? Once i reassemble, I'll double check that I get everything to TDC and i will re-perform a valve lash to make sure I didnt completely booger that up some how.

I guess i'll try to fire her back up again after that and go from there.

I cleared out some more room in the garage and I installed the cat back I got off ebay. Yeah I know, crap ebay... I mainly wanted it for the piping up to the muffler. I replaced all of the crappy gaskets with new ones. And this is what I get for buying something 2 years ago and just now fitting it to the car. i think this is for a coupe.







I did trouble shoot my odd steering clunk. I disconnected the outer tie rods and moved the steering wheel back and forth. No noise at all. So I turned my attention to the knuckles, from the car sitting up on floor jacks the lower control arms are extended well past where they normally would be. the knuckle was rubbing on the coil spring. So i can check that off the list, I will not have to pull the rack out again.
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post #500 of 715 (permalink) Old 02-12-2017, 03:33 PM Thread Starter
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Finally...FINALLY some good news. I'll update as soon as i get pics uploaded and i get to a computer.


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post #501 of 715 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 09:58 AM Thread Starter
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DOh, that took longer than expected. So, here is what went down between Friday night and Sunday afternoon.

Friday Night: I spent a couple of hours getting the cams, cam caps etc.. all back in the car. Then I fought with the timing belt for about 25 minutes, but once I got that straightened out, i went to recheck my valve adjustment. I'm not sure what happened, the intake side was perfect. The exhaust side however, i almost could fit a flat had screw driver between the cam and the lifter. I'm not sure if somehow I got them out of order when I did them last time or what, but each one needed to be adjusted about 3 full turns to get in spec. After i got the valve cover put back on and got the accessories all back together, i wanted to check the TPS. I remember when I bought the car back, the guy I bought the car back from had mentioned he changed out the sensor but never adjusted it and that was why it was idling high. The car has been throwing a code for TPS low voltage since i got the car back. I followed the TPS testing here. No matter what I did, I only got a maximum of 0.33 volts no matter how I had the sensor positioned. I'm assuming this means the sensor is no good, right? After that, I called it quits for Friday.

Saturday: I was tied up with things during the morning and early afternoon, so I wasn't able to really get to the car until late afternoon / early evening. So before i got the motor ready to fire up again, I installed a cheap test pipe i got so that way i wasnt listening to the car with the open exhaust manifold. This will work until i take the car to the shop to get my new cat put on the car. After that was installed, i go to start the car. All i got was click-click-click. So, I'm thinking dead battery. Even though its been on a battery tender for the entire duration of this project. I go get it tested up the street at advanced auto parts and it comes back as 100%. I think the battery had 410 CCA and it was actually testing at around 430 CCA. OK, so its not that. I re-install and try again. Click-click-click and then the speedo started to jump. Bah, what the hell.... So next i take the starter i just bought to go get tested. Tests fine, which made me feel better too considering it's new. Back to the car...again....and try again. Click-Click-Click and then smoke starts emitting from the engine bay. Awesome, why not? Let's add smoke to the ordeal. I get up to the engine bay and i can smell burning rubber. I start feeling the wiring harnesses for the starter, but they aren't warm. I just happened to brush my hand past the bracket that holds the clutch slave cylinder hose and it was HOT. Like, real hot. I then look at my braided hose and find this....



Kinda hard to tell, but its all kinds of crispy.

I'm going to need to get a new one of those i think. So then i start thinking, why in the hell is the current getting into this hose? There is no reason for this at all. Then i turned my attention to the ground wire and found this:


Yupp, that will do it. The thing was falling apart in my hands. At this point it was kinda late and everyone was closed so i had to wait until Sunday to get some bigger gauged wire so i could make a new ground.

Sunday: First thing i did was go get wire to make a new ground wire real quick. Wouldn't you know it, it completely fixed the problem lol. The car started firing immediately. I got it to fire up and it sounded great! I was so excited, until it started misfiring and running on 2 cylinders. While it was idling, i listened to the injectors and 1 and 3 were clearly ticking while 2 and 4 were not. I pulled each spark plug wire while the car was running. If i pulled 2 and 4 the car didnt care, but if i pulled 1 and 3 it quit running. The wires were clearly sparking though. So now i'm frustrated. i let the car run like this for about 5 or 6 minutes to see if it was something that would clear up. it did not. So i went back inside of the car. For some reason i moved the ecu, i cant recall why. i started the car up again and it idled near perfect and fired on all 4 cylinders. i let it run like this for about 15 minutes or so. then i took this video real quick. Getting near operating temps, idling relatively smooth and on all 4 cylinders.

Also take note because this will play a part in the next video... notice all of my tools etc.. all over the floor lol.

So great, shes running good. then all of the sudden she started falling all over her face again and going back to 2 or 3 cylinders firing. wtf.....I went to use my scan tool to check the CEL codes, but it wouldnt make a connection. weird...so finally, it got in my head that i should check the connection at the ecu after my scan tool wouldnt make a connection at the OBD2 port. I started the car up and the car was running perfect. i started pinching the wires at the ecu plugs and immediately the car started running terribly again. ugh....something is loose at the ecu plugs. So, that will need to be addressed at some point in the near future. I determined that if the wires are pulled tight with no slack, the car runs great. Like this:


So, i fired the car up again with the ecu positioned like the above picture, and she run good. it makes me so happy. The car is now running just as it did when i got the car back. Now, because i suck at video editing, this is the whole mishap lol. I was taking another video because the car was running better than before, no misfires this time. well, i tripped on my air compressor hose, regained my balance and then tripped on my jack stand. Warning....this video will make you dizzy lol. I tried to play it off like nothing happened.


But yeah, i fixed the issue that i caused, and i'll need to fix one more issue at the ecu plugs again. I'm not sure how i want to tackle this yet. I have an extra cabin harness for an LS integra so that would need a few extra wires pinned in at the ecu, but i really REALLY do not want to tear apart the interior again at this point in the rebuild. i just got done putting it all back together lol. So i let the car run for probably a total of 45 minutes on sunday. the car got up to operating temps, the cooling fans cycled on and off a few times, and most importantly i did not see any major leaks or anything at the motor. I did notice a weird leak up by the radiator though.

I had to put a bucket down to pick up the mess


How does coolant leak from a fan shroud? i checked all of the hoses, it was definitely coming out of the shroud and spilling over.


i tried getting my phone up in the shroud to get a better picture. I couldnt see much, but it looks like the lower part of the radiator fins are wet. I'm thinking the radiator may have broke on the lower part of the radiator. Maybe? It wasn't leaking when i bought the car back, but it has been sitting for a good while. it may have just separated or is starting to separate where the plastic meets metal and it is just now showing the leak because i got the car up to operating temps.




either way, i'm calling this weekend a huge success. I'm going to crawl under the car tonight just to verify there are no seeps or leaks anywhere on the motor. After that, i'm going to reconnect the outer tie rods back on the knuckles, and then i'm going to put the car back down on her own feet. The car has been on jackstands for basically the last 18 months straight, maybe longer. After i check the leaks, i think i have everything buttoned up underneath the car (i will double check first), so there is no reason to be up on the jackstands anymore. Whooop!

I'll be taken a short break from the car for a couple weekends probably. *I've been putting off some much needed drywall work in my house to try and get things wrapped up with the car. *So, fun drywall stuff up next, then back to the car lol.
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post #502 of 715 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 10:41 AM
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I fought the same mentioned transmission -> frame ground wire, convinced I had a starter problem. Atleast know you know you're isolated to a ECU harness problem, much better knowing where your problem is isolated. Electrical issues suck, I just chased an odd ball with my door locks over the weekend, fortunately is module related and not wire related.

As far as the coolant leak, it just about has to be a radiator problem. Not sure if you have access to a pressure tester or not to pressurize the cooling system, would make finding it 100x quicker, but based on the pics, I'd start looking for a new radiator.

Great progress!
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post #503 of 715 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 11:09 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks!

I forgt, the only thing i was not able to do was check the timing. i had my light and everything ready to go, but the timing marks now have surface rust over them. i cleaned them off with a brass brush but that took the paint too. So i can see the depressions in the crank pulley, but the light doesnt pick up anything. so to play it safe, i just left the distributor at the same position that i marked it at when i tore into the motor. it works, so it has to be within the range it needs to be in.
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post #504 of 715 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 09:33 AM Thread Starter
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One mo quick update

To finish up my teg work until i get my drywall project done, i double checked for leaks on the car last night. I think it is most definitely my radiator that has gave out, i could see coolant had pooled and collected in the space between the metal fins and the plastic bottom cap.
I also noticed two other small coolant leaks. I think this may be due to the type of clamps i'm using? I have a small leak from the upper rad hose. It's hard to see the leak by the radiator, but there is some pooling of coolant in one of the seams of the radiator fan shroud.


And then i saw a small stream had run down the front of the block where the hose connects to the head. Maybe i should get the OEM style clamps? Or maybe double up on the clamps?


I looked under the motor, I saw only one other small leak. Its a very very slight seep i guess you could call it at the cooler plate. Maybe i pinched the o ring during the install, it's not a bad leak though. I can address that during an oil change i bet.


Then to finish out the night, i cleaned all of the debris out from under the car and put her back down on her own feet. Hasnt been like this since i moved the car from the parking pad to the garage.



And this is the best pic i could get with the garage door closed lol


Check out that awesome wheel gap up front lol. The garage floor isnt in the best shape so i'm sure its not sitting level, and that should even out as all of the new suspension pieces get broken in. I also made a "punch list" of sorts of all the stuff i have left to do. I made 2 columns, the stuff i need to do before i can take it for a test drive and just the other stuff that needs to be addressed. If i finish my drywalll stuff sooner than expected, i'll be back at the car sooner than a couple weekends.
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