danteisme's 1996 DB8-Found and Rebuild Thread - Page 34 - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
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post #463 of 715 (permalink) Old 10-31-2016, 04:32 PM
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Nothing worse than lingering electrical issues... Good luck! Loving the DIY body work so far!
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post #464 of 715 (permalink) Old 11-02-2016, 11:06 AM Thread Starter
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so this is interesting...can anyone explain to me why on earth this would happen?

I have not done anything with the wiring yet, but since the CEL is on in the car i decided to scan it. *Then things got weird...i decided a video would show the situation better than just trying to explain it. *


1996 DB8 Bought 2003--->Sold 2010--->Bought Back May 2014 Restoration in Process!!
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post #465 of 715 (permalink) Old 11-17-2016, 01:37 PM Thread Starter
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electrical issues will be dealt with soon, i have some good reference materials to diagnose and double check more work.

i'm really pleased with how this is turning out considering how it started. *learned a lot of what not to do when i do the other side next year. *unfortunately, i did use bondo because that is what i had on hand. *there are tiny pin holes, but i'm not worried. *when i go to respray the entire car, i'll fix that issue along with the rest of the dents and dings. *this is my 95% level repair lol
some progress pics:







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post #466 of 715 (permalink) Old 11-21-2016, 05:54 PM
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totally feel your pain in this video, although I lost it when you said there were monsters in your electrical lol. The only explanation I can come up with is a short in your wiring somewhere??

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post #467 of 715 (permalink) Old 11-30-2016, 03:51 PM Thread Starter
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very minor update. referencing my shop manual, i dont see anything glaringly wrong with my de-pinning and re-pinning of the ecu plugs. a few colors didnt match what was in the manual, but nothing that seemed like i missed a pin or whatever. so next i'll be testing what i can, especially the grounds, per the manual. also secured a used cabin harness from an obd2a LS integra. yeah, it doesnt have vtec, but if it really comes down to it, i'll spend a year ripping out the dashboard and swapping harnesses and re-pinning for the vtec and IAB components. i figured for $35 shipped, may as well get it just in case.

i got the body work on the passenger side quarter to an acceptable level for now, including the wheel arch where i spliced the patch and the car body together. also have the rear bumper mounted 95%. i forgot that i broke the clips that attach the rear bumper to the car right under where the trunk lid is. so i'll be placing yet another order with acura when i get paid. seriously....how much $$$ do i need to spend at delray before a get a coffee mug? lol i got most of the rear seat and trunk items put back in where they are supposed to as well. i'll get pics of that tonight.

on to a few body work pics..



and the rear bumper installed. i'm super happy with how close the fitment is. i was really worried it would be way off somehow during the cutting out of the rusted panel and splicing in the new one.




that's all for now. as long as i'm not doing christmas or house stuff this weekend, i should have another update next week.
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post #468 of 715 (permalink) Old 12-05-2016, 11:34 AM Thread Starter
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Updated my table of contents this morning, i was waaay behind on that. And just a few more pics of the car. I'll be able to update more later.

Interior 95% put back together



Seat bottom not mounted, waiting until the fuel tank and pump is completely installed before i finish putting that in.


Keepin it old school in the car. That amp has been in 3 of my previous vehicles, sold it to my brother, and then he gave it back to me to put back in the car. Also picked up this substation, it sounds good!
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post #469 of 715 (permalink) Old 12-06-2016, 07:06 PM
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used cabin harness from an obd2a LS integra. yeah, it doesnt have vtec, but if it really comes down to it, i'll spend a year ripping out the dashboard and swapping harnesses and re-pinning for the vtec and IAB components. i figured for $35 shipped, may as well get it just in case.
Damn I have one of those laying around I would have gave it to ya!
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post #470 of 715 (permalink) Old 12-07-2016, 01:57 PM Thread Starter
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Damn I have one of those laying around I would have gave it to ya!
doh! i probably should have said something on here before i bought it. oh well, at least it was only $35 vs. $350 lol
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post #471 of 715 (permalink) Old 12-07-2016, 03:20 PM
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Yeah not a bad price at all!
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post #472 of 715 (permalink) Old 12-11-2016, 08:51 PM Thread Starter
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OK, I checked the electrical issues at the harness. I think i found the problem...so i picked the 32 pin plug to check all of the grounds to the ECU. First, i checked the power though. i checked pins 11 and 24. The manual says with the ignition on it will show battery voltage and with the key off it will show 0V. this checked out, off it showed zero and on it showed 0.28V. Not sure if this is a correct reading, but it was showing voltage as the manual said. So then i checked the grounds on the 32 pin plug. i checked pins 9, 10, 22, and 23. These are the grounds for the ECM control circuit and ECM power circuits These all say they should be less than 1.0V at all times. So, all of them checked out at 11.3 volts....so i would say i have a problem with my grounds from the ECU. How do i start to diagnose this, do these all have the same ground point? I still have to go through the manual and see if it says how to track down where these are grounded out.
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post #473 of 715 (permalink) Old 12-27-2016, 09:40 PM Thread Starter
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Update on my electrical progress. I really have it narrowed down at this point. So, i checked the ground for the ecu (at the thermo-stat housing) and cleaned the electrical connector and the mounting point really good. Then I re-assembled and checked with the volt meter again. Grounds at pins 9, 10, 22 and 23 are all at .3-.5 volts now. Great, got that one taken care of. I double checked my fuses and re-checked the pins that should be showing voltage. The pins that actually power up the ECU are still reading almost nothing. So, i have a power issue. I was doing some research and i learned that one of the possibilities is the main relay. The main relay power-out wire is Yellow/black or black/yellow, i forget which at the moment. The wires that are reading 0 at the ECU power pins are the same colors. So i track down the main relay and unbolt it for examining. First, i checked for the click with the key in the on position. It was very noticeable, it clicked on. However, the CEL is not turning off with a second click. At this point, I reconnected my scan tool and it was unable to make a connection with the vehicle. I suppose this makes sense, since there is no power going to the ECU. So, upon examining the main relay, i noticed some oddly placed electrical tape. I remove it and find this, someone's attempt at a repair at some point (not me, I don't ever recall doing this).


Now, I don't think this is the issue though. The wire that is repaired poorly is yellow and green, which according to the book powers the fuel pump. It will be fixed correctly. So, a few things i need to research.

1. How to de-pin the main relay plug so that I can replace this shoddy repair.
2. How to diagnose the main relay to determine if the relay itself is bad and is causing my ECU issue
3. If the relay checks out fine, how to determine which wire is bringing power to the main relay, and verify that this wire is getting power.
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post #474 of 715 (permalink) Old 01-04-2017, 01:27 PM Thread Starter
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alright, i'm going to be looking for some assistance. *I tested my main relay per the instructions here:*Main Relay Fix, Troubleshooting (Honda, Acura) and how to solder

according to that, the relay checks out okay. *However, i'm noticing a discrepancy in the wiring diagram from my Helms electrical troubleshooter and the diagram in the back of the haynes manual. *i'm going to upload a pic of what i'm looking at to get some feedback. *I;m not the best at reading wiring diagrams so any input will be appreciated. *I'll be able to upload those after work today.
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post #475 of 715 (permalink) Old 01-04-2017, 02:06 PM
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From this thread:
https://www.team-integra.net/forum/17...switch-g3.html

It looks like the yellow/white wire is the one that brings power to the relay.

1-(94-01): Green/Blue : To ECM Connector Terminal A16 (FLR)
2-(94-01): Blue/White : To ST. Switch
3-(94-01): Black : To Ground
4-(94-97): Yellow/Green : To Fuel Pump
5-(94-97): Black/Yellow : To IGN. 1
6-(94-97): Yellow/Black : To ECM Connector Terminals A11 & A24 (IGP)
7-(94-01): Yellow/White : To BAT. Positive

Were you able to repair the connections for the yellow/green?
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post #476 of 715 (permalink) Old 01-04-2017, 09:24 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drmix View Post
From this thread:
https://www.team-integra.net/forum/17...switch-g3.html

It looks like the yellow/white wire is the one that brings power to the relay.

1-(94-01): Green/Blue : To ECM Connector Terminal A16 (FLR)
2-(94-01): Blue/White : To ST. Switch
3-(94-01): Black : To Ground
4-(94-97): Yellow/Green : To Fuel Pump
5-(94-97): Black/Yellow : To IGN. 1
6-(94-97): Yellow/Black : To ECM Connector Terminals A11 & A24 (IGP)
7-(94-01): Yellow/White : To BAT. Positive

Were you able to repair the connections for the yellow/green?
i attempted to make the repair but i had a heck of a time de-pinning that plug to crimp a new connector on the end. i was worried i was going to break something, i;ll have to give it another shot. i was just going to get rid of the but connector and make a good solder connection, but i still have bare wire exposed and partially undone at the connector though.

looking at my relay, i dont have a pin 4, at least not marked on the relay. it goes 1-8 with 4 empty. This is where i've been getting confused, the link i posted up was the only one i found that matched my relay in the car in terms of pin arrangement. i scanned the wiring diagram from the haynes manual. It shows a yellow/green wire going to the fuel pump and a blue/white and yellow/white coming in from the fuse box (under dash)


then here is what i found in my helms manual:


if i'm looking at this correctly i'm seeing a yellow/green coming in from a fuse and going into the relay.

then here is the breakdown a few pages later


i just want to make sure i'm testing the correct wires lol.
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