danteisme's 1996 DB8-Found and Rebuild Thread - Page 33 - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
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post #449 of 715 (permalink) Old 09-12-2016, 08:21 PM
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post #450 of 715 (permalink) Old 09-18-2016, 09:17 PM Thread Starter
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alright, i wont go into detail, but the wife and i had some pretty terrible stuff happen to us this week. so i dealt with it the best way i know how... i kept myself busy and occupied. so after doing a bunch of stuff with the wife, i secluded myself to the garage. friday night i primed up the parts of the car that i had worked over with bondo the weekend before (shaved door mouldings, bumper repair, antenna shaving).



then i went back to working on my ecu issues. i have 3 wires that have pulled out of the ecu crimps. and i see why now. i was reading up on depinning and i tried a wire that was intact in the ecu plug to make sure my technique was good. check out the crimp on this wire. see all of the corrosion? i'm sure a lot of these are like this.


i am having a heck of a time getting the pins that fell off the wires to release from the ecu plug. i dont have the luxury of pulling the wire to remove the crimp. i tried turning it straight up and down in hopes that it would fall out via gravity and i had no such luck. i tried releasing the pin like in all of the depinning videos and pushing it out the back from the front, that didnt work either. i'm actually starting to cause some damage to the plug and i really dont want to do that. any ideas on how to go about repairing this? i have 2 wires on the large gray plug and 1 wire on the smallest of the 3 ecu plugs. this is getting to be really frustrating. i want to repair it properly without causing further damage to the ecu plugs.

speaking of frustrations, i ordered up this guy to stop my frustrations with re-doing the connections to the harness for the vafc2. so now my frustrations lie with the ecu plug repairs only.



so i finsihed up the work in the garage this weekend with some painting and general cleaning. this is just rattle can paint, the same color i used for the engine bay. still needs a little clear coat. its not perfect, and the body work is not 100% final yet, but in the event i dont get the car painted next year, this will hold me over in the meantime.



re-installed the rear calipers, brakes, and most of the rear suspension on the passenger side. driver side will be installed when i have most of the cutting out of bad metal done.


and if anyone has some front bumper fender mounts they don't need, i could really use some. these ones are toast


also completed the re-installation of my jdm fogs and finsihed wiring up the switch. as soon as i get some new bumper mounts for the fenders, that bumper can go back on the car for good for now.

thats all for now, more to come.

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post #451 of 715 (permalink) Old 09-18-2016, 09:31 PM
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I have a set of those. Pm me your address
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post #452 of 715 (permalink) Old 09-18-2016, 10:12 PM Thread Starter
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I have a set of those. Pm me your address

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post #453 of 715 (permalink) Old 09-22-2016, 09:43 PM Thread Starter
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well, i'm tired of messing with these ecu plugs. i'm going to order 2 packs of crimps and a new plug to replace all 3 from hamotorsports and just de-pin each one at a time and start over. the crimps that i have stuck in the plugs i'll just use the new crimps and a little new wire and fix them that way. what a freakin mess....

i greatly dislike old wires...

ninja edit: just picked up a set of OBD2 ECU plugs that match the ones i am having issues with now. *also comes with a few inches of wire sticking out of the ecu plug. *my ecu harness fix just got easier. *score for $12!*
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post #454 of 715 (permalink) Old 10-03-2016, 10:26 AM Thread Starter
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First of all, big thanks to Jeffaome for sending me the bumper fender mounts. i am truly jealous of the condition of parts outside of the rust belt lol. i put a new coat of paint on them, ordered all new clips and fasteners and went to install them and the bumper but decided against it for now. if/when i finally ever fire this car up, it will be easier to address the many issues i'm going to encounter without the bumper on it i think. so for now, i'll leave it off and install the bumper once i am sure everything is good.

so...i messed with the wire harness this weekend. My depinning technique is perfect now, i had A LOT of practice lol. Here are some pictures during (the pile of wires on the garage floor is from the donor plugs):




i made the repairs to the 3 or 4 wires that had pulled out of the ecu plugs, i depinned each wire one by one and reinstalled them to the new plugs that arent all battered up. finished the project, plugged the VAFC2 in to boomslang harness, got everything all hooked up and turned the key to the on position and NOTHING HAPPENED>... very disappointing. so i double checked all my connections, tried again and still nothing. so next i double checked the vafc2 itself. hooked it up straight to the battery and it turned on and went to the main menu etc... ok....what in the f*&%... i'm going to double check my ecu plugs and for sure verify i have every wire in the correct spot, but that shouldnt really affect the vafc unit just turning on. after i double check that, i may have to reach out to boomslang for some trouble shooting advice with their harness. such a fiasco.

question time! i started cleaning out my parts boxes and decided if i install the talights and new gaskets, i can throw out another box and free up some space. didnt really notice what the previous owner did until yesterday. instead of new gasekts, it looks like they used some sort of sealant where the gasket should be. its not like a regular rtv, its about the same consistency of seam sealer. any advice on how to "easily" remove this? i tried a razor blade, and it works but its slow going. but, maybe thats just how this is going to be. luckily, its only like this on the inner taillights.

outer almost cleaned up


inner, not so much


tasks this week will be to diagnose the wiring again, and get the passenger side quarter panel patch ready for installation on Saturday. also hope to be finishing up the driver's area of the interior as well.
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post #455 of 715 (permalink) Old 10-03-2016, 09:28 PM
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Got a heat gun?

Do me a favor.From now on don't care what other people think about your car. Do what YOU want to your car. Who gives a damn what other people think about it.
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post #456 of 715 (permalink) Old 10-04-2016, 08:01 AM Thread Starter
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sure do, you think heating that junk up a bit will get it off faster?
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post #457 of 715 (permalink) Old 10-04-2016, 06:55 PM
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Couldn't hurt. That's how I debadge cars with similar material. Heat then fishing line the peel.
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post #458 of 715 (permalink) Old 10-09-2016, 09:20 PM Thread Starter
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i didnt get any pictures, but the tail lights are now installed, thanks to the suggestion of a little heat. its not perfect but its way better than it was. so i've come to realize that i'm not going to get both quarter panels done this year. i'm running out of good, warm weather. so i'm going to hopefully finish the passenger side, mangle the dirvers side back into some sort of shape, ghetto patch up the one hole and put some rust proofing over it for now. that way, if/when i get this car running i can go get it inspected and worry about just the quarter panel next spring.

i'm having a heck of an electrical problem, or at least it seems that way. i double and triple checked all of my ecu pins and i followed a couple of print outs i found via google, i think most of them ended up coming from honda tech, and every thing matches. so i've basically ruled out a miss-pin when i repaired the bad ecu wires and swapped out the plugs. i tested my vacf2 again on just the battery in the car. connecting the brown and black wire to the negative post and the 2 red wires to the positive post and it turns right on. goes through the little display thing at the beginning and goes to what i originally had it preset to display. BUT, when i go back into the car and connect the BOOMSLANG harness to the ecu and make all of the plug connections, nothing happens. it will not power up at all. i also noticed something interesting, when i plug the vafc2 into the jumper harness, i hear something click like a relay or solenoid under the dash board...main relay maybe? i'm a little lost on this one, i'd love to hear some ideas from anyone... here is a stupid question, do i need to have the ecu mounted back in that kickpanel for it to be grounded? if that is the case, maybe that is the problem. i have everything laid out on the passenger floor for testing.

i connected all of the brake hoses and finished up all of the rear suspension pieces and got them bolted on to the car. i just have to finish mounting the ebrake cable on the driver's side and mount the rear sway bar and suspension is done. then hopefully this week i can bleed the clutch and brake systems. Which reminds me i have another question. i replaced 3 hard brake lines, all of the hoses, and the abs unit. is there anything i need to do differently when i approach bleeding the brake system? or just got about it like a standard brake bleed?

so here is my new game plan if i can get this electrical issue straightened out. get the brakes and clutch system bled out, finish bending the one fuel line for the tank, throw in the tank with the new fuel pump and sending unit, attach the filler neck, throw some gas in the tank and at least pressurize the system a couple times to check for leaks. then, i'm going to attempt to throw on the exhaust and get this thing test fired. that should really show if i have any electrical issues...or any other issues for that matter. so if all goes well, and i'm sure it won't, i can get the car test fired fairly soon and hopefully go get it inspected and continue working on it here and there until next spring when i can put on the driver's quarter panel.
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post #459 of 715 (permalink) Old 10-10-2016, 07:48 AM
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Brake bleed, will be a similar situation to when I did mine, all new calipers, flex lines, ABS delete, master cylinder, and booster in one shot. I opened each of the bleeders in sequence and let gravity get fluid through first (took a little while at each wheel this way). Then went in sequence with a friend bleeding, which took 2-3 laps around the car.


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post #460 of 715 (permalink) Old 10-10-2016, 08:55 AM Thread Starter
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thanks! i'll give that a shot
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post #461 of 715 (permalink) Old 10-17-2016, 01:00 PM Thread Starter
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yarrrrrggghhhhh.....i'm getting for real frustrated with the electronics.....

regular updates first. *all the brake hoses, cables, etc.. are finally mounted where they are supposed to be. *these pics suck, but they are there. *



just need to trim the one fuel line and bend it in the correct direction and the fuel tank is ready to go in. i clear coated the areas i "roughly" painted with duplicolor close enough color lol. *it doesnt look great, but it will hold me over if i cannot get the entire car resprayed next year.



it matches pretty good for a ford color


pics of tailights in from last weekend, i need to adjust the trunk lid. *the tailight lines dont match up.


glued this bastard in! *when i do the driver's side, i WILL NOT be doing it the same way. *this was a nightmare to deal with. *my plan for the driver's side should go much smoother.



back to all things electrical that hate me. i went through my wiring diagram AGAIN. *from what i can see, everything is where it is supposed to be. *granted, it is a little hard to tell with some of the wires since they are the exact same color. *BUT, when i initially swapped plugs, i de-pinned and re-pinned each wire one at a time. *so here is what is happening on electrical-i still have 0.5 volts or some minuscule number going to the vafc harness. *not enough to power it on. *so i have completely disconnected the boomslang harness for now. *i plugged the ecu plugs back together and now as soon as i turn the key on, i get a repeated clicking from under the dashboard and the CEL light is faded and blinking very quickly with each tick. *i'll try to get a video of it tonight, probably easier than trying to explain what is going on. *so that is all screwed up. *also now, my low beams do not work at all. *no power to the harness. *this shouldnt be affected by the ecu though, they worked before when the ecu wasnt even connected. *i double checked my fuses and both are good. *high beams work, but no low beams. *what in the hell....what else could cause both low beams not to work besides a bad fuse?

i'm getting all kinds of frustrated with the car's electrics...i'll still move forward so other items are done and out of the way. *i hope to install the fuel tank friday night. *hopefully the filler neck too, if not that will be done saturday. *i'd really like to bleed the brakes and cllutch and then fill the tank with some gas and test for leaks IF the ecu will let me. *this will of course be around the work i'm doing to my truck this weekend too, so we'll see how it all comes together. *at this point, i'm not sure if i should reach out to boomslang about the harness since there is no power going to the vafc unit, or if i should hold off because there is obviously something else wrong. *
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post #462 of 715 (permalink) Old 10-31-2016, 10:54 AM Thread Starter
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the electrics in this car is making me really lose steam at this point. i'm trying to get everything else done, but i'm really just procrastinating and putting off the difficult stuff lol. also annoying... i went to finish up the fuel tank install over the weekend only to find that i am missing some oem clips and such for the fuel connectors. so, placing another order to acura today. ugh..i feel like every week for the last month i have been placing $20 orders here and $15 orders there for oem stuff i didnt realize i needed. the last 2 times i went to install parts on the car and i was held up by not having some clip or bracket or something lol. oh well. i went over everything i need to put back on the car so i can combine stuff i know that i need into one order, hopefully. thats the plan at this point anyways. i also seam sealed the replacement arch and started the fiberglassing to smooth out the patch panel. this looks a lot thicker than what it is, but me and my DA sander will still have some work knocking this down before i move to standard body filler. this is short strand bondo-glass.



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