danteisme's 1996 DB8-Found and Rebuild Thread - Page 23 - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
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post #309 of 715 (permalink) Old 12-21-2015, 09:53 AM Thread Starter
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this came out way easier than i expected. i do see it being an issue trying to line up the rack with the steering column, but i;ll cross that when i get to it. while i have this out, i'll clean it up and coat it when the black chassis saver like i did everything else. with this out, there is a lot of room to work on some other items i want to tackle so this wont be going back in the car in a hurry lol.

with the subframe and the rack out of the car like it is, is it easier to replace the tie rods like this or is it easier in the car? the outer ones are kinda meh...i think when i checked the inners i didnt notice any play. i may replace them still, especially if it is easier to do so like this.

also, i found a thread on a civic forum by accident when trying to figure out how to remove the subframe and i thought i would pass the information on here. apparently there is a ford green paint that is pretty close to cypress green pearl. close, but its a little lighter. i sprayed the bottom edge of the door just to see how it matches, i think i may buy a couple cans of this and rock the car like that rather than all primered up when i finish the body work. long ways away from that, but its good to know.

i tried taking as good of pics as i could, but the garage light wasnt showing the paint correctly i dont think. i sprayed over some of the orange rust killing primer stuff at the bottom of the door edge.











this whole bottom edge was all orange before

edit: also forgot to mention, that rear motor mount came out in 2 pieces...added that to my list of parts i still need..
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post #310 of 715 (permalink) Old 12-30-2015, 10:56 AM Thread Starter
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sounds like a plan, i just so happen to have an extra set i can swap and see if that changes things.
such old news at this point, but swapping out the rails fixed the problem!
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post #311 of 715 (permalink) Old 01-03-2016, 09:13 AM Thread Starter
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i'll have some updates, some setbacks, and a whole bunch of questions i'd like to get opinions on a little later this afternoon. what a freakin day yesterday...
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post #312 of 715 (permalink) Old 01-03-2016, 01:15 PM
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Really curious to see how close that green matches with CGP
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post #313 of 715 (permalink) Old 01-03-2016, 04:09 PM Thread Starter
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let me first start out by saying i should be able to work all winter on the car this year. i have two kerosene heaters in the garage now, and with them both operating it was nice and toasty in the garage compared to outside. i'd estimate it at at least 60 degrees inside of the garage yesterday.

i started out yesterday by finishing up my headliner and reinstalling that back in the car. i dunno why i didnt take any pics, next time i'm in the garage i will. honestly, it could have been better, but it would have been way to much of a PITA to take back out, strip all the glue, get another piece of fabric, etc.... there is a couple of places the glue bled through, and there is a couple of places where the fabric got a little folded up and there is a crease, but it will do.

then i moved on to the fuel lines etc.. of the car. i replaced the fuel feed and return line, i need to make a new vent line. i also need to order the rear brake lines because i dont feel like dealing with them when they are available at the dealership.

i went to replace the rear motor mount and 2 of the 3 bolts came out, the other one just spun and spun. the welded neut on the back broke off in the subframe. awesome. so i removed the brace and the rack to get access to it. a rusted bolt on the frame broke off in the frame as well....double awesome.... so i cleaned up the metal and welded the nut back in place and sprayed it with some rustoleum black.

here is the stupid bolt that broke...i cant get it to budge. i think i'm going to have to cut it flush and drill it out. any other ideas?



rack removed, broken mount and new mount


and the fixed subframe ( i just now realized this is a pic of the backside of the repair lol)



so next on the list was the timesert those holes in the block where the axle support goes. they have been bad since probably 3 years before i sold the car last time. this is such a neat tool


during


and of course, this wouldnt be my project without something going wrong....
one would not thread any farther than this (look at the one on the right compared to the left)


any ideas on getting this guy out? it def wont go in any further, i'm not sure what happened. i did all 3 holes exactly the same. should i just get some vice grips on it or a pair of channel locks on it and try unthreading it?

also, not sure if this was left over drip from disconnecting something above, but it looked like i had an oil seep where the shifter plugs into the transmission. is there a seal in this area i should be worried about replacing? i check a few of the part diagrams and it was hard to tell which part went where.



last pic, i love how much room i have to work on this car with all of the junk out of the way. looking for some ideas in this area.

i would really love to be able to have this much room working on the motor, but i'm not sure how i can do this. here is a list of the main items i need to work on with the motor and transmission:

-timing belt, water pump
-front main seal
-skunk2 LMAs
-change clutch
-change flywheel
-replace rear main seal.
-change oil pan gasket

now this is in no particular order. how do i support the motor so i can do all of this work, or is it unrealistic? i do not have an engine lift, nor the room to work one with the garage door closed. there is so much freakin room to move and wrench, i would love to be able to get as much done as i can with all of this extra space. once the transmission is out though, there is only one mount holding up the motor. i can't put a jack stand and wood under the oil pan though, because then i cant get the oil pan out, and if i cant drop the pan i cant change the rear or front main, and so forth and there is my dilemma. i'm open to any ideas, i probably wont get a chance to get back in the garage and wrench on the car until Friday night.

couple of other things to note, i wired up the headunit for the car while i was in the house waiting for the garage to warm up, i put my gauges in my quad pod, and i ordered new MOOG inner tie rods to match the outers i already have. and i dont think i added a pic of these yet. i figured why not, whats another few $$$ into the build at this point lol just a few pieces i ordered when they were 25% off.

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post #314 of 715 (permalink) Old 01-03-2016, 04:25 PM Thread Starter
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Really curious to see how close that green matches with CGP
I have a feeling its not going to be close enough that you would want to do large areas. Probably will work great for touch up spots though. We shall see.


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post #315 of 715 (permalink) Old 01-04-2016, 12:03 AM
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For that time-sert that didn't seat all the way, they say to use an EZ-out of the proper size and twist it out like a broken bolt.
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post #316 of 715 (permalink) Old 01-04-2016, 08:34 AM Thread Starter
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thanks for that info Dave! i'll give it a shot.

i was so disappointed when it didnt seat, good thing i have 3 more
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post #317 of 715 (permalink) Old 01-04-2016, 02:02 PM
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One protip:

Make sure the hole is super duper clean. Run a cleaning tap though it if you have one. Blow it out with compressed air and brakeleen, anything else you can think of to clear chips before you thread the TimeSert in. Make sure to use just a drop of oil on the driver and the insert, per the instructions. Things want to be very clean when you do an insert. It makes all the difference in the world.
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post #318 of 715 (permalink) Old 01-11-2016, 02:04 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Dave, i'm going to give that a shot tonight after work hopefully.

very quick update, i didnt have a whole on of time to work on the car. after taking a look at any possibilities to do the work in the car with out the tranny or the subframe, short of supporting the block i just dont see an option that will work. so after i install the brake lines and fuel lines, i'll put the subframe back in and connect the rear motor mount so the motor will be supported in 2 places with the tranny out.

so, with the couple hours i had to work on the car and the very warm weather on saturday, i tackled something that was bugging me for a while. it doesnt take anything off my list, but oh well. since it was so warm, i wanted to strip the valve cover and throw a new coat of paint on it, as well as dress up the engine bay a bit. the valve cover was a failure so far...after applying talstrip 3 times, there is still a good bit of paint on the valve cover. so that project went nowhere for the day...

with all of the chassis saver i placed on certain parts of the bay, i decided to try out that duplicolor green in the bay and see how it turns out. matches pretty good for engine bay sprucing up. i forgot to move the hood prop, so you can see the difference between 20 year old cypress green pearl, and the new duplicolor.

also snapped a pic of the improved headliner in the car.

pics:


i cheated and freshened up the paint as far down as the motor components would cover lol


shock tower is looking good though


and here is where the hoodprop was still down by accident.


quick question, i plan on making a parts run to acura this week for the brake lines, any coolant lines they still have available, a few odds and ends, and new oil lines for my ITR oil cooler i plan on installing. is there anything else besides the new oil lines that i should get for when i install the oil cooler? i have the bolt, the cooler, old old cooler lines, and the water neck. id rather just make one trip to acura this week and get everything i need at once lol
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post #319 of 715 (permalink) Old 01-11-2016, 05:54 PM
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I have the cheap Harbor Freight engine support. It'll hold a block with no trans or engine mounts in about the right place. Something like $70. Less if you have a coupon.
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post #320 of 715 (permalink) Old 01-12-2016, 09:01 PM Thread Starter
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For that time-sert that didn't seat all the way, they say to use an EZ-out of the proper size and twist it out like a broken bolt.
worked perfectly! cleaned out the hole, then re-threaded it to make sure i got the full depth then cleaned out the hole again and they sat perfectly in the block. i have 2 time-serts stuck on EZ-outs but i can deal with that later lol.

as it turns out, one kero heater is NOT enough to keep me unfrozen when the temps outside are 14 degrees. i was only in the garage for about 35-40 minutes and yikes was it cold. need to order a new wick for the other heater, it pooped out on me.
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post #321 of 715 (permalink) Old 01-15-2016, 10:12 AM Thread Starter
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placed another $250 order with acura parts...after i get this bunch i can button up the brake and fuel lines and start wrenching on the block. or the transmission...not sure which i'll do first yet.
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post #322 of 715 (permalink) Old 01-21-2016, 08:16 AM Thread Starter
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so.... i have royally screwed up my lower back and therefore havent done a thing to the car. all in good time.


question...i borrowed this pic from an ebay ad.


on the fuel filter mount where the semi-clear plastic hose attaches to the clamp...what the hell is this? when i removed the fuel filter i snapped the plastic piece that the hose attaches to. i'm assuming its a breather of some sort, but i cant seem to locate the plastic piece on any of the parts breakdown diagrams.
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