Newt Gomez' K20A DC4 Build Log - Page 24 - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
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post #323 of 325 (permalink) Old 09-30-2018, 09:20 PM Thread Starter
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Location: Oregon Valley Area
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Got the fuel pump replaced with the Aeromotive unit and everything works. I also set up a fuel pressure sensor (Every tuned car should have one) and my clutch switch to the Infinity so now all of that works.

I was driving around at night on the freeway and I heard a loud *TING* followed by some rattling and harmonic vibrations. I thought I lost a lug nut but it turns out that the K-Tuned AC/PS delete kit is engineered like garbage. The top bolt on my alternator sheared off where it goes in to the block so one 4 dollar bolt later, it's fixed.
I noticed that when tightened, the alternator makes the top bolt flex due to it not being perfectly straight.

There is room to hug the alternator closer to the block so I cut three pieces of pipe. 2 sections that were .25 inches long and 1 section that was .5 inches long. The shorter spacers go on the bottom two bolts and the longer one goes on top. This puts the bolts all straight on as they should be and reduces the torque being applied to each bolt holding the alternator on to the engine block. I also utilized lock washers and lock nuts where necessary to keep bolts from backing out. Now the alternator still sits in the same place, but it's roughly a quarter inch closer to the block. I highly doubt this will hold forever but it should help a little bit as the engine vibrates and moves a lot.

The engine still isn't dyno tuned as the dyno is being built in my tuners shop above ground and he is in the middle of making ramps for it. Nothing looks out of the ordinary and the logs are plenty rich to prevent bad things from happening so I have faith that the engine will be perfectly fine until it's dyno tuned.

I also set up fuel cut launch control at 5k and it seems to do fairly well with only a little bit of spin. No lift shift is also set up and works amazingly!
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post #324 of 325 (permalink) Old 01-12-2019, 09:02 PM Thread Starter
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This post is for anyone trying to get K SERIES AIR AND WATER TEMP SENSOR RESISTANCES. I couldn't find any accurate data so I pulled the air and water temp sensors on my k20 and did some checking. My AEM tables have been off forever and an actual tune session is right around the corner so my BS needed to be sorted out.

The calibrations follow identical curves so I'm just going to post the resistances of what my water temp sensor came out to be.

Ohms:Temperature in Fahrenheit

This was taken with a fluke multimeter and a simple meat thermometer in a pot of water. It may not be 300 percent perfect, but the curve has read well for my car so far and I am satisfied with the results that don't read higher than they should and seem feasible. I hope this helps any K series owner running a standalone.
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post #325 of 325 (permalink) Old 02-26-2019, 11:28 PM Thread Starter
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Location: Oregon Valley Area
Posts: 318
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Alright. I finally ripped the band aid and ordered a radium fuel rail so I could use a fuel pulse damper and I also ordered a set of 550cc RC injectors as the stock 310cc injectors are basically maxed out and I still have no idea if AEM's calibrations are correct.

I got the car on a dynapack and made some good power!
My base tune from the street was 190hp
Final numbers are 220hp and 160ftxlbs torque
It was pouring down rain and roughly 50 degrees so I have no idea what the extra 30 horse is like but I would guess that it's going to be enough to be satisfied for a while.
Overall, using the dynapack was really nice but there are two spots that cause serious oscillations and idk if it's fuel system or just engine related but it won't matter as the car won't hold one set rpm for a long time.
I'm super satisfied with the numbers and am glad I was able to save some money and tune it myself. 200 bucks for 2 hours of dyno time is way better than spending 5-600 bucks getting it tuned by someone else.
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