Alpha's DD Project Log UPDATE: Suspension review + mini-shoot! p.7 - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
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post #1 of 103 (permalink) Old 09-09-2011, 10:31 PM Thread Starter
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Cool Alpha's DD Project Log UPDATE: Suspension review + mini-shoot! p.7

((((UPDATES))))
Anti-Theft Circuit Post #23
New audio setup and installation Post#37
New Goodies post#41
LS is OUT! New pics! post#51
Swap complete!! Now a member of the vtec club!
New wheels, exhaust, & plate setup
Fresh wax & new shift knob
Suspension build underway
Wheel wells painted and 95% of car re-assembled!
Suspension review + mini-photoshoot at Ash Lawn!




Welcome to my build thread.

Current setup (Updated Sep. 24, 2012)
Suspension:
Fortune Auto 500 Series Coilovers 7/5k (392/280lbs)
Benen Tripod
ASR Brace
Function7 LCAs
PWJDM Rear Swaybar endlinks
Type R rear and front sway bars
Skunk2 Rear camber kit
Skunk2 Pro series front camber kit with Hardrace bushings
New Bushings
Brakes:
Mini/Type R big brake upgrade
SS Brake Lines
Centric rotors
Audio:
JVC Radio
4x 6.5" Sound Ordnance Speakers
4ch Alpine 300W amp
Dynamat Superlight 24sqft
Other:
Blox "Limited Series" Neo Chrome 490 shift knob
Optima battery
Custom anti-theft system
2 way communicating alarm system
I also have a shotgun waiting for one - or two - unfortunate enough to attempt to steal my baby
Engine:
JDM 98+ Type R engine
Apexi WS2 catback
JDM Type R cat
Weapon R Intake
P75 ECU with vtec
Moates Demon
Tuned on Neptune
PLX DM-6 Wideband

Some possible future plans?:
Endyn built head
2.5" electric exhaust cut-out before cat
New driver and passenger seats
50 shot of Nitrous
New bumper + paint (so I can install OEM fogs)
Two more PLX DM-6 gauges
OEM optional sides (CF?)
Rear Valances (CF?)
ITR lip (CF?)
Window tint


Here is my old setup:
98" Integra LS
Original B18B1
No A/C
Greddy 18G Turbo w/ Greddy Intercooler
550CC RC Injectors
Innovate Wideband O2
Glowshift boost gauge/oil pres. sensor & exhaust temp sensor
Chipped non-VTEC ECU running Moates Demon
Tuned on eCtune @ 249hp/249wtq
3" Full exhaust (Thermal R&D) w/ custom 3" Downpipe
Stage 4 Clutch
Suspension:
Koni Yellows with Ground Control Coilovers (450F/350R)
Ground Control Top Hats
Skunk2 Pro Series Plus Front Camber Kit
Blox Rear Camber Kit
Audio:
Some aftermarket 6.5" speakers - decent quality, not great though
Everything else has been stollen
(Two radio's, two MTX12" subs)








Older Photos:







Current Setup: 98' Spec JDM Type-R swapped LS
Former Setup: 250hp/250tq LS-T
My Build Thread

Last edited by TheAlpha; 03-28-2013 at 10:19 PM.
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post #2 of 103 (permalink) Old 09-19-2011, 09:56 AM Thread Starter
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Just tested parasitic draw yesterday, it came in at 60 milliamps, which is a little on the high side. I might retest today however, since I was a little rushed yesterday I didn't have to time to wait 15mins after connecting power to the car. So at that time the ECU might not have been in "sleep mode" which could throw off my results.
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post #3 of 103 (permalink) Old 09-19-2011, 12:15 PM
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After reading Meltman's thread I am honestly starting to believe that there is no such thing as a AC compatible turbo kit. Or a at least one where you do not have to worry about problems over heating.

If your going to build a setup, then why not build it to accomodate the type of driving that your going to be doing 80% of the time? Horse power is expensive. If your unsure about your goal, just come up with a budget for how much you want to spend.
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post #4 of 103 (permalink) Old 09-19-2011, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrMoe View Post
After reading Meltman's thread I am honestly starting to believe that there is no such thing as a AC compatible turbo kit. Or a at least one where you do not have to worry about problems over heating.
I have noticed this too, and its quite annoying/misleading. If you have a good quality dual core rad (half or full size, take your pick), a SPAL fan with a properly designed/fitting shroud, heat wrap every exhaust piece thats possible, run a coolant additive such as Water Wetter, anddd possibly an oil cooler set up, you will NOT have heat issues. Also be sure the cooling system is properly bled. I have seen way too many set ups with this type of preparation and they have 0 cooling problems, even at 280-300 WHP. Its expensive to make 300 WHP turbo Honda with A/C, but definitely not impossible.

EDIT: Also some will argue that 250 plus WHP on a daily driven (street tires) teg is unpractical anyway, and I support that. And at 250-260 WHP, overheating will definitely not be an issue with even half of the above preparations.

Last edited by Dustin96LS; 09-19-2011 at 12:30 PM.
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post #5 of 103 (permalink) Old 09-19-2011, 12:31 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MrMoe View Post
After reading Meltman's thread I am honestly starting to believe that there is no such thing as a AC compatible turbo kit. Or a at least one where you do not have to worry about problems over heating.
Yea, I'm honestly starting to lean in the direction of a JDM Type-R swap, although I'd miss the insane sudden pull when the turbo spools, a high-revving engine with vtec might be a nice substitute and a little more DD friendly. Although I'm not sure what I'd do when it comes to the exhaust setup. Being stealthy is priority, and without a turbo sound management will be all about the exhaust setup.

Opinions?
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post #6 of 103 (permalink) Old 09-19-2011, 12:36 PM
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I'd say keep your current set up. Get a downpipe that will fit with A/C, re-install A/C, take the necessary cooling precautions (in my above post), and enjoy a 250 WHP LS with A/C
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post #7 of 103 (permalink) Old 09-19-2011, 02:37 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Dustin96LS View Post
I'd say keep your current set up. Get a downpipe that will fit with A/C, re-install A/C, take the necessary cooling precautions (in my above post), and enjoy a 250 WHP LS with A/C
Yea, I've thought plenty about going this route as well, but if I did I'd still want to replace many things. The turbo, manifold, and intercooler + piping are all showing their age, so I would want to replace the whole turbo setup essentially. Any way you cut it a setup that is A/C compatible would be quite costly, I've looked at a few kits of Synapse, which will run upwards of $4000.

Another option I suppose is to get a similar setup with a screamer pipe and another custom downpipe with a tight bend to allow for A/C. I can imagine that pipe would probably cost $1000 to fab up because of the time it would take to build.

The transmission also needs work - or better yet replaced completely. A softer clutch would be nice as well.

This is why a Type-R swap is looking mighty tempting, $4000 for the entire package + install + exhaust would be a nice easy transformation, would it be as fun? Probably not, but I think the result would be satisfying.
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post #8 of 103 (permalink) Old 09-20-2011, 01:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrMoe View Post
After reading Meltman's thread I am honestly starting to believe that there is no such thing as a AC compatible turbo kit. Or a at least one where you do not have to worry about problems over heating.
Hmm, maybe you haven't seen my set up yet. LOL. Running A/C daily. Also, the type r swap will be fun if you hadn't done boost yet, once you go boost, its hard to turn back to N/A. Also, N/A has too many power limitations versus Forced Induction.
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post #9 of 103 (permalink) Old 11-28-2011, 12:27 PM Thread Starter
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So I've been looking into fixing my headlight situation, my pair of Anzos are decent, but I still wish I had the money at the time to grab a pair of new OEM's. If I see a pair of used ones in good condition I might jump on them, but even then I'd be worried about a condensation problem. Something that was a problem for my old pair before the deer incident. Currently I have a set of fogs to help compensate for the lack of light output. They work, but because they are technically not road legal here in VA I have to remove them every year for the inspection. They also look....cheap, and one must be replaced almost every year.

So I've been looking at the Raybrig OEM fog light kit which will run me a little over $200:


However I'm uncertain if these are road legal because I do not see any DOT numbers and such on them that I can make out. I mean, they should be because they are OEM, but because they are JDM they are not compliant with US standards, correct? So will I still have to remove them before inspections? Plus, I'm unsure if they are bright enough, or even too bright so that I'll get pulled over if I pass a cop at night. Has anyone seen or own these and care to share some info?
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post #10 of 103 (permalink) Old 11-28-2011, 03:16 PM
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Instead of spending the 200$ on the raybrigs, I'm sure you can find a set of used headlights that need some tlc and still have enough left over for some hids (if you don't already have them).
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post #11 of 103 (permalink) Old 11-28-2011, 06:30 PM
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Instead of spending the 200$ on the raybrigs, I'm sure you can find a set of used headlights that need some tlc and still have enough left over for some hids (if you don't already have them).

I agree with j.mass. get some DDM 55w 5000k HIDs. only 65$ shipped, with lifetime warranty. its by far my favorite mod. makes a 1000% difference.
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post #12 of 103 (permalink) Old 11-28-2011, 07:03 PM Thread Starter
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I agree with j.mass. get some DDM 55w 5000k HIDs. only 65$ shipped, with lifetime warranty. its by far my favorite mod. makes a 1000% difference.
Good points, do I need to make any mods to the headlights themselves to install the HIDs? Some of the installs I've seen looked rather extensive.

Now that I think of it I might know someone with a decent pair of stocks from a 00, might look into that.
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post #13 of 103 (permalink) Old 11-28-2011, 07:09 PM
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Like my install???

For a plug and play you don't need to make any mods. Itll connect up just like any other bulb, it'll just have a ballast.

Mine was tedious because I did I retro fit. That's a whole different story and makes it 1000000% better
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post #14 of 103 (permalink) Old 11-28-2011, 07:30 PM Thread Starter
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Like my install???

For a plug and play you don't need to make any mods. Itll connect up just like any other bulb, it'll just have a ballast.

Mine was tedious because I did I retro fit. That's a whole different story and makes it 1000000% better
I bet, not sure if I could retrofit my Anzo's, but if I could, I'd probably be open to it - if it guaranteed excellent light output with the low beams. You only replace the low beams correct? Do the high beams remain untouched?
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