1BAD1integra 4/18/16 clock pod and gauge install - Page 24 - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
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post #323 of 344 (permalink) Old 07-09-2015, 12:01 AM
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I don't have any experience with a half radiator but the ultimate goal is simply CFM through an adequate core. IMO, radiator fans should be mainly for low speed or stationary cars. The best option (again IMO) is a single high CFM puller fan with a shroud. To get enough CFM at speed to shut off the fan, I would do something similar to what drmix did (hope he doesn't mind me stealing his photo):
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post #324 of 344 (permalink) Old 07-09-2015, 01:17 AM
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Go ahead and steal my pics all you want, thats why I put them up

Im running Supertech valve train on mine. If you can afford it I would just go ahead and upgrade the valves, valvesprings, retainers, and all that good stuff. The valvetrain is one of those parts where once you upgrade you wont really have to touch it ever again.

Honestly, I would recommend just one high quality fan pulling. Im running a 13' SPAL. I believe it was the highest flowing fan that they offered in the size. When it kicks on its loud and powerful! I dont think having two fans covering the same small radiator will do much more than just one strong fan. Plus thats alot of power for the car at idle if you are running powerful fans. Also having the fan in the front of the radiator means that when your driving and the fan is not on it will just be covering the radiator making it less efficient.
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post #325 of 344 (permalink) Old 07-09-2015, 03:28 AM
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If you're keen on saving a few bucks, this guy sells Bosch EV14 1000cc injectors which are the same as FIC and Injector Dynamics. A whole set with harness adapters and the adapter top hats are $274, just write it to him in a note of your specific engine year when ordering.

Bosch EV14 96lb Single Tip 1000cc E85 Audi BMW Mustang Camero Dodge GM | eBay

Other than that, I would definitely put in a wideband to monitor your engine. I'll definitely be looking forward to your updates when you boost!

1995 Integra SE- RIP
1995 Integra GSR- RIP
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post #326 of 344 (permalink) Old 07-11-2015, 01:53 PM Thread Starter
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Go ahead and steal my pics all you want, thats why I put them up

Im running Supertech valve train on mine. If you can afford it I would just go ahead and upgrade the valves, valvesprings, retainers, and all that good stuff. The valvetrain is one of those parts where once you upgrade you wont really have to touch it ever again.

Honestly, I would recommend just one high quality fan pulling. Im running a 13' SPAL. I believe it was the highest flowing fan that they offered in the size. When it kicks on its loud and powerful! I dont think having two fans covering the same small radiator will do much more than just one strong fan. Plus thats alot of power for the car at idle if you are running powerful fans. Also having the fan in the front of the radiator means that when your driving and the fan is not on it will just be covering the radiator making it less efficient.
Is the valvetrain ok to use for daily driving though? I'll defintely look into getting just the 1 big fan. I guess it all depends on it I can keep temps down.

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Originally Posted by thenickster5792 View Post
If you're keen on saving a few bucks, this guy sells Bosch EV14 1000cc injectors which are the same as FIC and Injector Dynamics. A whole set with harness adapters and the adapter top hats are $274, just write it to him in a note of your specific engine year when ordering.

Bosch EV14 96lb Single Tip 1000cc E85 Audi BMW Mustang Camero Dodge GM | eBay

Other than that, I would definitely put in a wideband to monitor your engine. I'll definitely be looking forward to your updates when you boost!
Thanks for the link! Yea I looked up Injector Dynamics and I wanna say is a little over $400! Definitely need to save money wherever possible.


So I received my new starter yesterday, car now cranks but it still wont start. Flywheel was inspected and everything looked fine as well as timing belt being in timing. I pulled out the spark plugs and they're covered in oil. My battery was also drained so it is now charging. Really hope I can figure out the issue and get the car running, its been too long.
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post #327 of 344 (permalink) Old 07-12-2015, 06:09 PM
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Nice, such a sexy little thing keep up the sweet work
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post #328 of 344 (permalink) Old 07-13-2015, 02:46 AM Thread Starter
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Nice, such a sexy little thing keep up the sweet work
Thanks dude!

Well the car is finally back on the road! The rough idle was caused by a bad TPS sensor. Ended up getting a Blox one so I'll see how it holds up. The only code I currently have is an Engine coolant Temp sensor. I replaced 1, but after some more research, theres 2 more..guna order both to hopefully resolve the issue.

First impression from going to auto LS to a GSR..night and day difference!
Whats to come:
I installed D2 racing coilovers and they feel amazing, need to get the rider height adjusted cuz its too low in the back and too high in the front.
Bought new tires so I need to get those mounted
Finally get an alignment
Still need to figure out reverse lights..I think I need to find an OBD2B ecu pin out for an auto..I only see ones for manual that leave out the (D) connector, which is where I think I need to tap in to. If anyone can find one let me know!

Pics to come, I was so excited I forgot to take any, but I will soon!
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post #329 of 344 (permalink) Old 07-16-2015, 12:23 PM Thread Starter
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Just scored something in the mail today..
Legit Mugen formula Shift Knob in black

I've been looking for this specific knob for months and thought I'd stick with my Mugen theme.

I order another ECT sensor so hopefully that will fix my issue and get rid of the check engine light.
Symptoms:
High idle (needs gas to prevent from dying),
fluctuating idle at a stop.
Temperature gauge doesn't seem to get to operating temperature as quickly as I think it should

Going home this weekend to put the interior back together and snap some pics for you guys. Stay tuned.
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post #330 of 344 (permalink) Old 07-16-2015, 12:27 PM
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High idle (needs gas to prevent from dying),
fluctuating idle at a stop.
Vacuum leak vacuum leak vacuum leak !
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post #331 of 344 (permalink) Old 07-16-2015, 01:22 PM Thread Starter
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Vacuum leak vacuum leak vacuum leak !
Okay I'll be checking that. Im sure it has to do with the IM.
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post #332 of 344 (permalink) Old 07-18-2015, 09:33 PM Thread Starter
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Well @MorningZ was right, I had a vacuum leak at the TB. Apparently I forgot to tighten the bolts and only 1 bolt was holding it on! Luckily I was close to Home Depot when i thought I heard a bolt fall from the engine bay. It still idles high, but I just got my engine coolant sensor today and will install tomorrow. I noticed yesterday I began to overheat while in traffic. Blasted the heat to make it home without damaging the car, popped the hood and my fans weren't running (caused by ECT sensor). Just to be safe I'm replacing the thermostat as well just for peace of mind.

Later last night, it started to sound like a subaru..pulled the code and got a code for knock sensor..i swear every sensor on this engine has been bad..
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post #333 of 344 (permalink) Old 07-18-2015, 09:38 PM
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So whats the difference in the 'fake' mugen knob and the real thing? My only gripe on the fake is there is no locking nut
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post #334 of 344 (permalink) Old 07-20-2015, 01:22 PM Thread Starter
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So whats the difference in the 'fake' mugen knob and the real thing? My only gripe on the fake is there is no locking nut
Just a couple subtle things like the shape of the top of the knob and the mugen logo is laser etched instead of printed.

I plan to powdercoat it to match my steering whel because its pretty faded
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post #335 of 344 (permalink) Old 07-20-2015, 01:43 PM Thread Starter
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So when i first start the car it idles normally around 1500rpm and then will go down (cold start) and warms up to normal operating temperature. When the car is already at operating temperature it idles at 2000rpm and stays there. In traffic it will also overheat.

What I have replaced:
All 3 engine coolant temp sensors
Working thermostat from previous engine (about 2 years old)

the coolant is also steaming from the radiator and I have ECT sensor High code.

Any ideas?
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post #336 of 344 (permalink) Old 09-03-2015, 02:44 AM Thread Starter
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Been awhile guys, summer class in graduate school is forced me to put the teg on the back burner. After driving the car for a while, I want more power lol. I realize 450whp is probably a little much, I just want it to have decent power and keep up with my buddies evo x lol.

My new HP goal is 350whp

Here are parts I know for sure I'll need:
GO-AUTOWORKS TURBO KIT: $2,839
GO-AUTOWORKS Cast V2 Ceramic Coated Manifold
GO-AUTOWORKS SS 3" downpipe
GO-AUTOWORKS 38mm MVS dumptube
Garrett Ball Bearing GT2860RS Turbo
Tial 38mm MVS wastegate (14psi spring combination)
HKS blow off valve
GO-AUTOWORKS Pro Oil Kit
GO-AUTOWORKS Race charge pipe kit
GO-AUTOWORKS bar & plate intercooler
(6) high quality silicone reinforced couplers (black)
(12) stainless T bolt clamps
Combo GO AUTOWORKS valve cover venting and catch can set up $350
Hondata 4 Bar MAP Sensor $99
1/2 size radiator Triple core $166
12" Slim Fan- $48
Accord Coolant Resevoir $15
RC 750cc Fuel injectors- $375
Custom 3" exhaust ?
Managment-$724
Hondata S300 System pre installed into OBD1 ECU (phearable.net)
Standard Basemap
New ECU Capacitors
OBD2-OBD1 jumper harness

Gauges
AEM Wideband A/F $150
Prosport Amber Boost gauge $84
Oil Temperature $69

Total= $4544 without exhaust and tune

This is everything I can think of at the moment, if there is something I missed please let me know. Also, if my prices seem way off let me know where I can find it cheaper =)
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