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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 03-14-2019, 09:50 PM Thread Starter
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Lightbulb Engine Swap Knowlage

So I just pulled my b18b1 out of my 98' LS Integra, and I plan on putting another b18b1 into it. I already have the other engine, but I was just wondering about a few things.

-What does the vacuum line on the top of the throttle body connect to (is an aftermarket intake and throttle body, don't know much about them but they came with the car and I want to use them on my new engine)

-What do I need to swap from the original motor onto the new one

-How can I check the new engine to make sure it's good

-Useful things to replace on the new engine to reduce the maintenance I'll have to do through the life of the car

-Any other information that you can offer me

DISCLAIMER: If I sound stupid, it's because I am and I don't really know what I'm doing. This is my first engine swap and first car that I'm really working on. I don't really know much, but im trying to learn.

All comments appreciated, Thanks!
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 03-15-2019, 02:14 PM
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Here is the vacuum diagram for B18B1 engines:

Swap the recently installed parts (hoses, sensors etc.). Obviously don't get rid of the old engine. Once you start the car you may encounter unexpected performance issues that would yield switching additional components from the old engine.

First off, before installing the replacement engine, I would remove the oil pan to inspect it for potential internal engine failure (rod bearings etc.). If you simply drain the oil, you would not be able to tell since metal particles now rest at the very bottom of oil pan and are not going to come-out on their own. You will need to install new oil pan gasket and use liquid gasket in (4) separate areas to re-install the oil pan. But prior to re-installing the oil pan, it would be wise to look at cylinder walls by rotating the crankshaft by hand (19mm socket) counterclockwise rotation. You would look for signs of deep rust. You should be able to complete the 360 degree rotation without problems. If it doesn't rotate, the engine is ceased. You will experience resistance during the rotation if the spark plugs are installed. And that's a good sign, but you should be able to overcome the resistance w/o a use of power tools, breaker bar etc. If everything is good than the engine should be good. Once you install it on the car, run a compression test to confirm that the piston rings are healthy and the valve are properly sealing.

Here is the list of things you should consider replacing while the engine is off the car:
1. Valve cover gasket set (spark plug seals, cam seals, cam cap), especially if you see signs of an oil leak around valve cover. Also adjust the valves while the valve cover is off and inspect the valve train for any visual damage.
2. Distributor o-ring (located behind the distributor)
3. Distributor cap and rotor
4. Spark plugs
5. Spark plug wires
6. PCV valve
7. Clutch
8. Pilot bearing
9. Throw-out bearing
10. Rear main seal
11. Oil pump seal
12. Water pump
13. Timing belt
14. All hoses (I may be missing few things)

Let us know if you need additional advise. Goodluck!

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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 03-15-2019, 04:45 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you so much! I'll be sure to ask more questions as I get to them
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 03-16-2019, 11:13 AM Thread Starter
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I was wondering if you could answer me a few more little questions I've come across.

-How can I check my cylinder walls for rust without removing the head or the oil pan

-The bolt in the back of my intake cam locker that holds my distributor snapped. I was wondering if I have to reinstall that bolt, as it doesn't seem to hold down the cam and the other bolt should hold it study enough for the distributor to hold into in
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