First Post Updated 10/23/2008 Full DIY of Energy Suspension Motor Mount Inserts
OK guys and gals get ready to get dirty for this. First off, Check out this T-I Article
for details on why you would want to do this to your car.
I did this to my 2001 LS automatic trans integra. The inserts you buy should fit any G3 teg year 1994 and up.
Here is your parts lists and tools needed
[*]Energy Suspension Motor Mount Inserts part number 16.1106R (mine are red R=red)[*]The kit comes with plastic zip ties but I decided to opt for duability and buy 2.5 inch x 1/4 inch bolts and washers to hold the two pieces together on the mount[*]I also purchased some loctite thread locker for some added security[*]Silicone Lubricant[*]PB Blaster is always your friend when working on stubborn botls and nuts[*]If your mounts are dryrotted like mine were you can buy 2000 Integra Type-R mounts for less than 70 bucks[*] Honda part numbers : 50841-ST7-Z00 and 50842-ST7-Z00 : I got mine from Delray Acura Acura OEM Parts .com (Delray Acura)
[*]1/2" breaker bar or big torque wrench[*]3/8" torque wrench[*]14mm,17mm,and 19mm DEEP sockets[*]various extensions and swivel attachments[*]And as always an impact gun makes life so much easier.[/list]
Now before we begin, I nor does Team-Integra.net assume any responsibility form you performing work on your own car. Please take all risks into consideration and be safe and have someone help you or be around to give you a hand. A Helms manual is always handy to have around when working on your own cars.
First off lets get the car off the ground.
Safely support your car with jack stands on the factory jack spots. I would advise now that you lube up your inserts a bit just so that they do NOT squeak over time. I sprayed mine with silicone about 6 times before they were finally in. I used probably about half the can.
Now that you can get under you car, you are going to want to take the black engine protector off from under the car. It is held in by 3 10mm bolts and about 4 (not sure if I was missing some) plastic black screw tabs.
with that gone you can now see your mounts... the front mounts are by the wheels so you should take them off to gain easier access to the mounts.
REAR~ Here you can see my o2 sensor on my header. what you are looking for is the dark rubber piece in the center, that is your mount. and this shows you the 'T' Bracket we will wrench on later.
You can almost see how my driver side is craked a little bit. This is what happened when I took the Impact to it.
This is also why I decide to go ahead and buy new mounts as it will only help make it stiffer.
Just as a safety pre-caution I supported my engine with a black of wood and jack under the tranny side with I worked on the rear mount.
Starting with the rear mount, you want to take the 3 14mm bolts out from the mount. one you can reach from the bottom under side of the car and the oethr two you will need to get from the top.
FRoNT BOLT~as a warning here, I would use an extendable magnet and pull this bolt out before it gets lost in the T bracket
PASSENGER BOLT~Here you can see my blue intake. You need to remove your intake to get at some of the bolts.
Driver Side Bolt
Now that you have those 3 bolts out you can take the horizontal bolt out from the middle of the mount. You can take the horizontal bolt out first if it is getting in your way on the driver side mount bolt.
Next take out the 2 bottom 19mm bolts from the 'T' Bracket that is connected to the transmission.
Now you will remove the upper bolt on the 'T' bracket that is accessible from the top passenger side of the motor. That bolt is a 17mm.
Now that everything is free you can wiggle the 'T'' bracket around from under the car and get that rear mount out. the 'T' bracket is not going to come out, just take the mount out. Next you want to lube up your inserts very well. The ES instructions tell you which mounts go where and they are stamped with numbers corresponding to their location.
once you get the insert worked into the mount, dont worry it will be tight to get in, just put some muscle into it, you can wiggle the mount back into place.
Now you just reverse your steps to get this mount secured back into your sub-frame and motor.
Tip here would be to get the ALL of the bolts finger tight before you tighten them all down. especially with the 3 on the rear mount.
Now that we are finished with the rear mount, double check your work and make sure everything is back in its place before you move on. leave your intake off still. you need to get to those upper engine mounts later.
Ok first I set up my mounts and inserts.
Here you can see the new ITR mounts and my old busted mess. the ITR mounts are stiffer and have a 'backer' to them as you can see in this picture.
DoNT FORGET TO LUBRICATE THEM AGAIN
Be sure to remember which side is which before you tighten the nuts and bolts down that hold the two halves together. It is hard to tell after they are together. one side is wider than the other and will be slightly harder to get the washers and nut onto the screw, but the other side I cut off the excess threads with a pair of cutters. I also puposeky installed the screws with nuts on the outer side so that I could see if the nuts ever came out without having to get under the car,
I used the threadlocker as per the directions on the package to help ensure that the insert halves dont fall apart one day.
Starting with the passenger side you can take off the two 14 mm bolts that hold the torque mount in place. the upper engine mounts will hold the motor in place.
once you have those two bolts removed now you support your engine with a jack or cherry picker and now you can loosen the top passenger side motor mount nuts, They are 17mm nuts.
Next you want to take off the outer nut, it is a 19mm.
Now you just need to drop the motor enough to slide the old off and the new mount/inserts on.
raise the engine back up and tighten down the upper mounts first. once you do that you can finger tighten the 14mm bolts and get them started into the holes.
once that is all tight you can tighten back that last outer 19mm nut. Passenger side is done.
The procedure is basically the same for the driver side only that there is one bolt and two nuts to loosen to drop the motor and the sizes are 14mm.
I had to trim a small amount iff the corner of the driver side mount to get the motor to raise back up because that mount is so wide. you may or may not have to do this but the Energy Suspension instructions say it is ok.
once again double check your work ensure every bolt and nut you touched is there again and that it is tight before you think you are finished.
LUBRICATE THE INSERTS AGAIN and AGAIN, use a tiny WD-40 straw if you can and squirt silicone into the crevices once the inserts are together.
Hope this helps anyone attempting this, and HAPPY MOTORING