DIY ES Motor Mount Inserts 10/23 Update - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
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post #1 of 57 (permalink) Old 10-13-2008, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
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First Post Updated 10/23/2008 Full DIY of Energy Suspension Motor Mount Inserts

OK guys and gals get ready to get dirty for this. First off, Check out this T-I Article for details on why you would want to do this to your car.

I did this to my 2001 LS automatic trans integra. The inserts you buy should fit any G3 teg year 1994 and up.

Here is your parts lists and tools needed

[*]Energy Suspension Motor Mount Inserts part number 16.1106R (mine are red R=red)[*]The kit comes with plastic zip ties but I decided to opt for duability and buy 2.5 inch x 1/4 inch bolts and washers to hold the two pieces together on the mount[*]I also purchased some loctite thread locker for some added security[*]Silicone Lubricant[*]PB Blaster is always your friend when working on stubborn botls and nuts[*]If your mounts are dryrotted like mine were you can buy 2000 Integra Type-R mounts for less than 70 bucks[*] Honda part numbers : 50841-ST7-Z00 and 50842-ST7-Z00 : I got mine from Delray Acura Acura OEM Parts .com (Delray Acura)[/list]


[*]1/2" breaker bar or big torque wrench[*]3/8" torque wrench[*]14mm,17mm,and 19mm DEEP sockets[*]various extensions and swivel attachments[*]And as always an impact gun makes life so much easier.[/list]

Now before we begin, I nor does Team-Integra.net assume any responsibility form you performing work on your own car. Please take all risks into consideration and be safe and have someone help you or be around to give you a hand. A Helms manual is always handy to have around when working on your own cars.

First off lets get the car off the ground.

Safely support your car with jack stands on the factory jack spots. I would advise now that you lube up your inserts a bit just so that they do NOT squeak over time. I sprayed mine with silicone about 6 times before they were finally in. I used probably about half the can.

Now that you can get under you car, you are going to want to take the black engine protector off from under the car. It is held in by 3 10mm bolts and about 4 (not sure if I was missing some) plastic black screw tabs.

with that gone you can now see your mounts... the front mounts are by the wheels so you should take them off to gain easier access to the mounts.


REAR~ Here you can see my o2 sensor on my header. what you are looking for is the dark rubber piece in the center, that is your mount. and this shows you the 'T' Bracket we will wrench on later.


PASSENGER SIDE

DRIVER SIDE


You can almost see how my driver side is craked a little bit. This is what happened when I took the Impact to it.
This is also why I decide to go ahead and buy new mounts as it will only help make it stiffer.


Just as a safety pre-caution I supported my engine with a black of wood and jack under the tranny side with I worked on the rear mount.

Starting with the rear mount, you want to take the 3 14mm bolts out from the mount. one you can reach from the bottom under side of the car and the oethr two you will need to get from the top.

FRoNT BOLT~as a warning here, I would use an extendable magnet and pull this bolt out before it gets lost in the T bracket

PASSENGER BOLT~Here you can see my blue intake. You need to remove your intake to get at some of the bolts.

Driver Side Bolt


Now that you have those 3 bolts out you can take the horizontal bolt out from the middle of the mount. You can take the horizontal bolt out first if it is getting in your way on the driver side mount bolt.

Next take out the 2 bottom 19mm bolts from the 'T' Bracket that is connected to the transmission.

Now you will remove the upper bolt on the 'T' bracket that is accessible from the top passenger side of the motor. That bolt is a 17mm.

Now that everything is free you can wiggle the 'T'' bracket around from under the car and get that rear mount out. the 'T' bracket is not going to come out, just take the mount out. Next you want to lube up your inserts very well. The ES instructions tell you which mounts go where and they are stamped with numbers corresponding to their location.

once you get the insert worked into the mount, dont worry it will be tight to get in, just put some muscle into it, you can wiggle the mount back into place.

Now you just reverse your steps to get this mount secured back into your sub-frame and motor.

Tip here would be to get the ALL of the bolts finger tight before you tighten them all down. especially with the 3 on the rear mount.

Now that we are finished with the rear mount, double check your work and make sure everything is back in its place before you move on. leave your intake off still. you need to get to those upper engine mounts later.

Ok first I set up my mounts and inserts.
Here you can see the new ITR mounts and my old busted mess. the ITR mounts are stiffer and have a 'backer' to them as you can see in this picture.

DoNT FORGET TO LUBRICATE THEM AGAIN

Be sure to remember which side is which before you tighten the nuts and bolts down that hold the two halves together. It is hard to tell after they are together. one side is wider than the other and will be slightly harder to get the washers and nut onto the screw, but the other side I cut off the excess threads with a pair of cutters. I also puposeky installed the screws with nuts on the outer side so that I could see if the nuts ever came out without having to get under the car,

I used the threadlocker as per the directions on the package to help ensure that the insert halves dont fall apart one day.



Starting with the passenger side you can take off the two 14 mm bolts that hold the torque mount in place. the upper engine mounts will hold the motor in place.

once you have those two bolts removed now you support your engine with a jack or cherry picker and now you can loosen the top passenger side motor mount nuts, They are 17mm nuts.


Next you want to take off the outer nut, it is a 19mm.

Now you just need to drop the motor enough to slide the old off and the new mount/inserts on.

raise the engine back up and tighten down the upper mounts first. once you do that you can finger tighten the 14mm bolts and get them started into the holes.

once that is all tight you can tighten back that last outer 19mm nut. Passenger side is done.

The procedure is basically the same for the driver side only that there is one bolt and two nuts to loosen to drop the motor and the sizes are 14mm.



I had to trim a small amount iff the corner of the driver side mount to get the motor to raise back up because that mount is so wide. you may or may not have to do this but the Energy Suspension instructions say it is ok.

once again double check your work ensure every bolt and nut you touched is there again and that it is tight before you think you are finished.

LUBRICATE THE INSERTS AGAIN and AGAIN, use a tiny WD-40 straw if you can and squirt silicone into the crevices once the inserts are together.

Hope this helps anyone attempting this, and HAPPY MOTORING

Water leaks fixed for now. Working on getting body back to OEM.
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post #2 of 57 (permalink) Old 10-13-2008, 05:39 PM
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I would replace the whole mount.

But that's me.


They are like $30 each or so. Buy TypeR ones, they are cheaper and stiffer.
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post #3 of 57 (permalink) Old 10-13-2008, 05:45 PM
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Oh, and the rear mount? Its not that hard if you take it out with the whole T-Bracket

I used a swivel impact socket and a HUGE long stack of extensions.

Could probably use a normal socket and a swivel attachment.
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post #4 of 57 (permalink) Old 10-13-2008, 05:46 PM Thread Starter
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K thanks... off to acura I go... So I need to mounts and the rubber mount piece itself right?
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post #5 of 57 (permalink) Old 10-13-2008, 06:31 PM Thread Starter
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Oh and are the Motor mounts the same no matter what type of transmission? Auto/Manual?
Parts number 12,14 and 8
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post #6 of 57 (permalink) Old 10-13-2008, 09:09 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeltMan on Oct/13/08
Oh, and the rear mount? Its not that hard if you take it out with the whole T-Bracket

I used a swivel impact socket and a HUGE long stack of extensions.

Could probably use a normal socket and a swivel attachment.

FYI Everyone... I ended up taking out Whole T bracket, The top bolt is on the passenger side and it is a 17mm bolt, the bottom two are 19mm and you get them from the driverside and are also a bear to break loose... PB Blaster is your friend. I havent finished yet But I just loosened the top T bracket bolt enough to loosen it and maybe it will swing out if the way enough for me to get at the rear motor mount.

For the actual motor motor mount bolts you should get the passenger side bolt off from the top and the front off from the top. the driver side you can get from the bottom. That 3 bolts holding that rear mount in.
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post #7 of 57 (permalink) Old 10-13-2008, 09:14 PM
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believe it or not, my torque mounts were in worse condition...pretty crazy
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post #8 of 57 (permalink) Old 10-13-2008, 10:09 PM Thread Starter
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I believe it... since mine is a 2001. and that driver side just spun right off with the whole shaft on it with the impact. well I got the T bracket back in and all but two of the mount bolts in and I will get those when its daylight again.. my rechargeable battery keeps going dead and I gotta work tomorrow.

Carbon... did you already do yours?
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post #9 of 57 (permalink) Old 10-20-2008, 07:09 PM Thread Starter
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So I finished my Es Motor Mount Inserts..

I had to wait a week for Delray Acura to ship my new ITR mounts to me... Looky for a comparison...

Just so everyone knows... I have a 2001 Automatic LS and I bought part numbers
50841-ST7-Z00
50842-ST7-Z00

Which are for a ITR and they fit up to my car. You can notice that my original mounts do not have the metal backer plate like the ITR ones do. ITR's are stiffer. I see why now



Passenger Side

Driver Side

Rear Mount


And a Little crappy video and whats important here is that ther is NO engine Flex!!!

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post #10 of 57 (permalink) Old 10-20-2008, 07:23 PM
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I'm glad you got it squared away!
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post #11 of 57 (permalink) Old 10-20-2008, 08:27 PM
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Mmmmm. This has to be my next upgrade I swear my engine flexes a ToN.

Good job on the DIY.

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post #12 of 57 (permalink) Old 10-20-2008, 09:17 PM
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well thanks for reminding me that i have to do this like asap. my motor moves so much my exaust opens like a waste gate...lol how much did the type-r mounts and the inserts cost u alltogether?

DC Squad member #7(version 3)
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post #13 of 57 (permalink) Old 10-21-2008, 07:21 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whiteDC4in910 on Oct/20/08
well thanks for reminding me that i have to do this like asap. my motor moves so much my exaust opens like a waste gate...lol how much did the type-r mounts and the inserts cost u alltogether?

Total price was 45.15 from my local speed shop for the inserts, and 69.79 for both front Type-R mounts. Acura OEM Parts .com (Delray Acura)(they were the cheapest!!) so total 115 bucks. Well worth it. I should had a vid of my motor flex before the inserts, but just look at your engine and you can see a difference between my video.

First Impressions:

I am soooo glad I did not get solid mounts, my teg is almost a DD, but driving around last night was awesome and the wife doesnt like the noise that much... but the engine vibrations she can handle

It sounds closer to a track car on the inside, there are sooo many things that rattle its not funny. BUT I LOVE IT!!! Even though I have an auto I smashed the gas once and got a little wheel

Worth the upgrade IMO if you need new mounts anyways, as in mine were dryrotted, so do it once and do it right. lol. I had to loosen the Upper engine mounts and drop the motor a bit to get the mounts on the pole because there is a piece of metal tahts in the way of sliding it right on.

Highway speeds were not bad at all, but at idle was when it is worst but still not unbearable.
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post #14 of 57 (permalink) Old 10-23-2008, 11:06 PM Thread Starter
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First post updated with detailed information, just ask here for any questions regaring the install.
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