DIY Caster Kit? - Page 4 - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
 1Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #43 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-10-2009, 12:44 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: RA1 In, NY
Posts: 4,006
Articles: 1
Feedback Score: 13 reviews
I can see how both of you make valad arguements, but I dont see how that caster change will hurt much, and I doubt it'll bring bump steer anywhere close to how a macpherson strut front end would react.

maybe I'll see about changing the uca's around to see how I like it, and while I have it dissasembled, I'll see how the upright moves with no strut in place to follow the paths of the balljoints.

Meltman:We here at TI all appreciate you trashing a perfectly good ITR engine because you're dumb.

Forced induction is NOT a fix for bad VE

B18Ch1ck: I am making noodles,they probably handle better than a DC5
SniperX is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #44 of 53 (permalink) Old 03-25-2010, 06:58 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Santa Barbara, CA
Posts: 718
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
My caster is in the negative by just a little bit. Looking closer, I saw the the previous owner must have ran over a rock or something and made somewhat of a flat spot in the rim. Knowing know that the Caster is probably off because of that incident, is it possible to take the wheel off and yank it back? Or take a hammer to it so that it bends back to where it is suppose to be? My theory is that if impact did it, impact can take it away. Could the same idea be used for camber? -Aaron
theivjackal is offline  
post #45 of 53 (permalink) Old 03-27-2010, 12:34 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: nash/knox, TN
Posts: 1,807
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by theivjackal on Mar/25/10
My caster is in the negative by just a little bit. Looking closer, I saw the the previous owner must have ran over a rock or something and made somewhat of a flat spot in the rim. Knowing know that the Caster is probably off because of that incident, is it possible to take the wheel off and yank it back? Or take a hammer to it so that it bends back to where it is suppose to be? My theory is that if impact did it, impact can take it away. Could the same idea be used for camber? -Aaron
No that wont work, I tried it before lol. Depending on how far it is off, you may need to replace the LCA or do the washer trick, but the washer trick can only gain you a degree or two. BTW in my case I hit a curb and the wheel was pushed back about an inch or two so I had to replace the LCA and even then the caster was showing -.5 degrees so I did the washer trick to take it to +1.5 or so.
BlknBlTeg is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #46 of 53 (permalink) Old 03-27-2010, 05:43 PM
Senior Member
 
coolhandluke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 8,324
Feedback Score: 39 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by theivjackal on Mar/25/10
My caster is in the negative by just a little bit. Looking closer, I saw the the previous owner must have ran over a rock or something and made somewhat of a flat spot in the rim. Knowing know that the Caster is probably off because of that incident, is it possible to take the wheel off and yank it back? Or take a hammer to it so that it bends back to where it is suppose to be? My theory is that if impact did it, impact can take it away. Could the same idea be used for camber? -Aaron
No, this is not a good idea. You are going to have to replace the upper or lower control arm.

"To change is easy. To improve is hard."- F. Porsche
ITR Expo 16 has been announced!

97' ITR Part Out Thread
coolhandluke is offline  
post #47 of 53 (permalink) Old 06-16-2010, 08:18 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: , NC
Posts: 226
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
I need to do this one side has 2.9 and the other side has .7.
I still do not get where the kit goes?
DarkSnowcat is offline  
post #48 of 53 (permalink) Old 07-28-2010, 08:57 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: , CA
Posts: 225
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
i need help... i took my integra for alignment and the guy at the shop says my caster is bent. and also that no one sells it or makes it. so does anyone know how i will deal with this. he says he cant do anything about it. my alignment is good and just got new tires. but he says the caster is bent so right now my car is pulling to the right.
WRintegra is offline  
post #49 of 53 (permalink) Old 05-21-2017, 04:36 PM
Senior Member
 
jl2218's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: CA
Posts: 149
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
I searched through my extra bolts and washers and found some OEM suspension washers that I could use as shims (don't know where they came from, but I'll check the next time I go to the junkyard).

My car is daily driven and I attend HPDE track events at least once a month. So far I've driven 1000 miles with 2 track days.



* * * This setup works for me. I'm not recommending it. I'm not not recommending it. I'm simply sharing my notes with you! * * *



My original caster angles: Left: 2.1 Right: 1.0 Cross: 1.1 - 1.0







I used Whiteline's Instructions as a reference.

3 outer shims (6mm) = +0.95 and 4 outer shims (8mm) = +1.25

I needed +1.1 so I figured that I needed 7mm worth of shims. My washers are each about 3.2mm.

I used 2 washers for the "Outer Shims" and 1 washer for the "Inner Shim"

The nut threads on about half way, I used thread locker and its doing fine for now.















I did an alignment and my caster changed by +0.7

My new caster angles: Left: 2.1 Right: 1.8 Cross: 0.3







I still wanna try to equal out both sides so I'll soon be pressing out the bolt and adding a longer OEM suspension bolt I found (don't know where it came from); similar setup to the Whiteline Kit.




aw614 likes this.

Last edited by jl2218; 05-21-2017 at 04:38 PM.
jl2218 is offline  
post #50 of 53 (permalink) Old 05-23-2017, 07:07 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Tampa
Posts: 699
Feedback Score: 3 reviews
wow, nice job. I was thinking of doing something similar for years, either buying the whiteline kit or adding washers like you did since mine is like 1.5 and .5. I need to find my last alignment sheet to check which side..

Never got around doing it though and just corrected the camber instead (I wanted more and to even it out for autox). Did you notice any differences with the driveablity? Like does it feel more event when returning to center from left or right?

Last edited by aw614; 05-23-2017 at 07:10 PM.
aw614 is offline  
post #51 of 53 (permalink) Old 05-23-2017, 07:11 PM
Senior Member
 
jl2218's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: CA
Posts: 149
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by aw614 View Post
wow, nice job. I was thinking of doing something similar for years, either buying the whiteline kit or adding washers like you did since mine is like 1.5 and .5.

Never got around doing it though and just corrected the camber instead (I wanted more and to even it out for autox). Did you notice any differences with the driveablity? Like does it feel more event when returning to center from left or right?
Wayyy better! Before, the return was different when turning right or left, now its more equal. Anything over 0.5 split will cause a pull too.

I'd suggest trying to find the damaged suspension part before shimming it. I'm 97% sure my frame is a little off, I've replaced everything before I did this.
jl2218 is offline  
post #52 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-22-2017, 01:17 AM
Senior Member
 
jl2218's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: CA
Posts: 149
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
*** UPDATE ***

I've driven 5400 miles with 9 track days.

The washers I used came from engine mounts, I pulled a bunch from the junkyard. Honda Part #: 90505-SB2-000

I pressed out the original studs to add longer bolts, I've also played around with adding and removing shims so here are my findings:


* 1 washer/shim = ~ 3.2mm

Outer Shims - - Inner Shims - - - Change in Degrees

- - - -5- - - - - - - - - -3- - - - - - - - - - - -+1.4

- - - -4- - - - - - - - - -2- - - - - - - - - - - -+1.4

- - - -3- - - - - - - - - -1- - - - - - - - - - - - - ?

- - - -2- - - - - - - - - -0- - - - - - - - - - - - - ?

- - - -4- - - - - - - - - -3- - - - - - - - - - - - - ?

- - - -3- - - - - - - - - -2- - - - - - - - - - - -+0.7

- - - -2- - - - - - - - - -1- - - - - - - - - - - -+0.7

- - - -1- - - - - - - - - -0- - - - - - - - - - - -+0.7

- - - -1- - - - - - - - - -1- - - - - - - - - - no change

- - - -0- - - - - - - - - -1- - - - - - - - - - - binding





jl2218 is offline  
post #53 of 53 (permalink) Old 11-30-2017, 06:40 PM
Member
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 82
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
jl that's one scary pic. I just encountered a 5 inch deep pot hole last week, and my passenger probably has a negative caster that's just as bad, if not as worse as my driver (hit a 3 inch curb head on at 25+ mph on a rainy day). Before the pot hole encounter, caster was -0.4 and -0.1 respectively.

I have to constantly re-position my steering wheel driving 70+ on the highway, and I'm sick of it. Additionally it's easy to turn the steering wheel to the left, but more difficult to turn it to the right, at high speed.

Looks like I'll finally have to get into buying the ball joint removal c-clamp tool, instead of renting it for the 3rd time.

Edit: According to this poster (link), the caster kit wore out his LCA's bushings prematurely. I only intend to add 0.60 to 0.95 degrees.
This additional post by a member here, articulately states that these kits can also cause the strut's dampers to prematurely fail.

2nd edit:
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolhandluke View Post
No, this is not a good idea. You are going to have to replace the upper or lower control arm.
This isn't guaranteed to fix it. I recently replaced my driver side LCA, caster only went up from -0.5 to -0.4 degrees, and somehow my passenger side went front from 0.3 to -0.1; I don't recall hit a major pothole from that period in time. A user at a honda forum said subframe is a culprit. A year ago alignment shop told me "front cross member" was bent. But they never showed me in their garage, and I don't know if they were referring to passenger or driver side.

Coincidentally, I've come across a tool called a "2-jaw gear puller", that may be sufficient to press out the carriage bolt.

I just received my caster kit, and some of these 2mm crush washers are of clearly varying thicknesses. I've decided to get a digital caliper just like post #49.

Update: With the digital caliper, most of the 2.1 mm" washers are 1.65mm in thickness, one of them was 1.25mm. The "3.1 mm" ones measured to 2.4mm. Bolt looks similar to an autozone grade 8 bolt. Bolt head measured close to 16mm (5/8"). I'll be contacting Whiteline about this.

2nd edit:
I was able to use the c-clamp ball joint removal tool, to press out the LCA stud bolt, by only having to disconnect the LCA from the lower ball joint. If the LCA is brand new, or less than a year old, you may be able to use a regular 6" c-clamp. My 130 lbs ft impact wrench wasn't strong enough.

The following image show how I oriented it.
Place 21 mm 3/8 drive socket on the thread of the clamp to prevent tool from slipping: https://imgur.com/JOsxsLl
Place 20mm (19mm may fit) on other side of bolt: https://imgur.com/cO0lXAa

Rather than the use a wrench to prevent socket from going through the clamp hole, one of the round disks that came with the ball joint removal tool may have been good enough.

When installing the washers, start with the outer ones, fasten a little bit, then do the inner ones. I needed the floor jack to hold up the "Y" part of the LCA. Expect this, to take around 4 hours, both sides with jack stands.

2001 Integra GS Automatic Coupe; B18B1: 240,000 miles.

Last edited by k3ntegra; 04-23-2018 at 05:51 PM.
k3ntegra is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Team Integra Forums - Team Integra forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome