jl that's one scary pic. I just encountered a 5 inch deep pot hole last week, and my passenger probably has a negative caster that's just as bad, if not as worse as my driver (hit a 3 inch curb head on at 25+ mph on a rainy day). Before the pot hole encounter, caster was -0.4 and -0.1 respectively.
I have to constantly re-position my steering wheel driving 70+ on the highway, and I'm sick of it. Additionally it's easy to turn the steering wheel to the left, but more difficult to turn it to the right, at high speed.
Looks like I'll finally have to get into buying the ball joint removal c-clamp tool, instead of renting it for the 3rd time.
: According to this poster (link)
, the caster kit wore out his LCA's bushings prematurely. I only intend to add 0.60 to 0.95 degrees.
This additional post by a member here
, articulately states that these kits can also cause the strut's dampers to prematurely fail.
No, this is not a good idea. You are going to have to replace the upper or lower control arm.
This isn't guaranteed to fix it. I recently replaced my driver side LCA, caster only went up from -0.5 to -0.4 degrees, and somehow my passenger side went front from 0.3 to -0.1; I don't recall hit a major pothole from that period in time. A user at a honda forum said subframe is a culprit. A year ago alignment shop told me "front cross member" was bent. But they never showed me in their garage, and I don't know if they were referring to passenger or driver side.
Coincidentally, I've come across a tool called a "2-jaw gear puller", that may be sufficient to press out the carriage bolt.
I just received my caster kit, and some of these 2mm crush washers are of clearly varying thicknesses. I've decided to get a digital caliper just like post #49.
Update: With the digital caliper, most of the 2.1 mm" washers are 1.65mm in thickness, one of them was 1.25mm. The "3.1 mm" ones measured to 2.4mm. Bolt looks similar to an autozone grade 8 bolt. Bolt head measured close to 16mm (5/8"). I'll be contacting Whiteline about this.
I was able to use the c-clamp ball joint removal tool, to press out the LCA stud bolt, by only having to disconnect the LCA from the lower ball joint. If the LCA is brand new, or less than a year old, you may be able to use a regular 6" c-clamp. My 130 lbs ft impact wrench wasn't strong enough.
The following image show how I oriented it.
Place 21 mm 3/8 drive socket on the thread of the clamp to prevent tool from slipping: https://imgur.com/JOsxsLl
Place 20mm (19mm may fit) on other side of bolt: https://imgur.com/cO0lXAa
Rather than the use a wrench to prevent socket from going through the clamp hole, one of the round disks that came with the ball joint removal tool may have been good enough.
When installing the washers, start with the outer ones, fasten a little bit, then do the inner ones. I needed the floor jack to hold up the "Y" part of the LCA. Expect this, to take around 4 hours, both sides with jack stands.