No Injector Pulse...Help Please! - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-12-2016, 09:37 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 7
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
No Injector Pulse...Help Please!

Disclaimer: To start off, I've been a member since 2007 but haven't signed on in years. I couldn't remember the credentials to my original account so I opted to make a new. I don't intend to be seen as somebody making an account to get some quick advice. Now that I own an Integra again (2 actually) I intend to start contributing again as I did in years past.

In addition, trust me when I say that I have used the search feature. I spend days and days researching on various forums and ProDemand before I even think about creating a post.


OK haha...here we go...

Current Situation:

Shell: 1994 OBDI GSR Shell
Engine: 1996 OBDII B18B1 w/ Main Harness
ECU: OBDI P75 socketed by Mad Fab Lab
Injectors: RC PL9 550's with Resistor Box wired in
Distributor: New OBDII Dizzy from Advance Auto Parts

Synopsis: 12+ volts to each injector clip but no pulse with noid light.


I have an OBDII (1996) B18B1 swap into OBDI (1994) GSR shell.

The motor was running when I pulled it a few years ago. Before putting it in the new shell, I made sure it wasn't seized. Prior to dropping it in, it got a new thermostat, timing belt, and water pump.

I am using all OBDII sensors and OBDII engine main harness.

The OBDII main engine harness is plugged into the OBDI subharness at the strut tower.

The OBDI subharness is plugged directly into an OBDI P75 ecu that I bought around 4 years ago that I have never used**


After placing the engine in the bay, I installed all of my turbo components and added fluids.

I then pulled the plug wires and injector clips to prime oil through the feed line.

Plugged the plug wires and injectors back in and turned the key on. Walbro fuel pump primed perfectly.

I decided to try to crank it and got a no-start condition. After checking over everything and verifying all electrical connections were good, I checked for spark.

No Spark.

Moving forward, I put a noid light on the injector clip to test for injector pulse.

No Pulse.

I then noticed the distributor was quite loose and I don't know what prompted me to pull it off to inspect it as opposed to just tighten it down, but I'm glad I did. The teeth on the key where it mates into the slots on the cam had broken off.

Luckily, the teeth hadn't fallen down into the head so I was able to pull them out without removing the valve cover.

I replaced the distributor with a brand new assembly from Advance Auto Parts and I was positive that this would cure both issues.

Now I have spark, but still no injector pulse according to the noid light. I did read on another forum that a noid light won't illuminate with a resistor box wired in but I'm not sure I trust that logic. Also, if I send ground to the injector from the ECU plug, the noid light illuminates.

All of my injector clips have 12+ volts on one side but they are not getting signal from the ECU to pulse ground. Each injector ground wire from the clip to the ECU ohms out at 0.4 ohms.

If I understand correctly, the ECU gets the input from the sensors housed within the dizzy to pulse the injectors.

I was worried about pins being out of place by plugging the OBDII main harness straight into the OBDI subharness and directly to the ECU but I ohmed out the wires from the ECU to the distributor plug by cross-referencing the OBDII wiring diagram with the OBDI diagram. So the distributor in fact does have continuity with all the proper ECU pins.

I've also checked the ECU plug for 12+ volts at IGP1 and IGP2, which it has. I did this check with the ECU unplugged but I don't think it matters for that test.

I'm about to go double check the grounds for the ECU.

I don't want to jump to the conclusion of a bad ECU but I'm starting to lean that way a little more as time goes on.

I'm sure there is just something that I missed.

I wanted to see if you guys have any input on something simple that I may have overlooked, did improperly, or any advice on how to test the signals coming from the distributor for the CKP, CYP, and TDC sensors.



Any input is appreciated!

Thanks

UPDATE:

Looking through ProDemand again, I found the testing procedures for the Crank Position Sensor (CKP) for the OBDII distributor.

It says to ohm out pins #2 and #6 on the distributor plug and look for resistance between 500 to 1000 ohms.

I got a reading of 450 ohms.

With it being a little lower than the parameters, I figured I'd test the broken distributor I pulled off to see what it read. I actually got lower on that one...about 417 ohms.


So now I'm left wondering if around 450 ohms is acceptable or if just coincidentally both CKP sensors are bad. Is it possible that I just happened to get a faulty new distributor from Advance Auto?


UPDATE #2:

I just had a local guy come by with his CRX and we swapped my OBD1 ECU into his car and it fired right up, so my ECU is good.

Last edited by iamshane123; 07-15-2016 at 12:59 PM.
iamshane123 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-13-2016, 01:30 AM
Senior Member
 
dark_reverie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: BC, Canada
Posts: 571
Garage
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
do a continuity test for the grounds to the ecu
dark_reverie is offline  
post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-13-2016, 05:10 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 7
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by dark_reverie View Post
do a continuity test for the grounds to the ecu
Thanks for the reply!

Just tested continuity to PG1, PG2, LG1, and LG2 all of which ohmed out right around 0.4 ohms.

Also tested continuity on all 4 injector ground signal wires from the injector clips to the ecu plug and also got around 0.3-0.4 ohms to each.

Also, like I said before, IGP1 and IGP2 both have power at the ecu plug too. So, it seems I have all my powers and grounds.

Just to be sure, the CKF sensor down is irrelevant in this situation, correct? The OBDI ecu is not looking for CKF so I wouldn't think so.
iamshane123 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-13-2016, 07:56 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 7
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
UPDATE:

Looking through ProDemand again, I found the testing procedures for the Crank Position Sensor (CKP) for the OBDII distributor.

It says to ohm out pins #2 and #6 on the distributor plug and look for resistance between 500 to 1000 ohms.

I got a reading of 450 ohms.

With it being a little lower than the parameters, I figured I'd test the broken distributor I pulled off to see what it read. I actually got lower on that one...about 417 ohms.


So now I'm left wondering if around 450 ohms is acceptable or if just coincidentally both CKP sensors are bad. Is it possible that I just happened to get a faulty new distributor from Advance Auto?
iamshane123 is offline  
post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-13-2016, 11:00 PM
Senior Member
 
dark_reverie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: BC, Canada
Posts: 571
Garage
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
I dont have any experience with obd2 honda's as I work at a VW dealer, but from my understanding of general engine management systems, if the computer does not know where the engine is (implausible crank position sensor or cam position sensor) the car will either not start or run like shit.
I'd imagine in your case if either the cam position sensor in the distributor or the crank sensor is bad the computer would hold back fuel so there wouldn't be damage to the engine. Just a guess though.
dark_reverie is offline  
post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-14-2016, 05:48 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 7
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
UPDATE #2

My OBD1 ECU is good. Swapped it into another running car and it fired right up.
iamshane123 is offline  
post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-13-2019, 01:23 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
Posts: 2
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Any update on the car to get it going
Joe09 is offline  
post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-13-2019, 05:25 PM
Senior Member
 
jjkz24's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Mechanicsburg, PA
Posts: 3,514
Garage
Feedback Score: 8 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe09 View Post
Any update on the car to get it going
He hasn't logged into the site since 2016





770whp/500wtq @31psi E85


2013 Carlisle P&S 1st Place Acura Integra Class Winner
2011 Carlisle P&S 1st Place Acura Integra Class Winner

2010 Carlisle P&S 1st Place Acura Class Winner
2009 Carlisle P&S 2nd Place Acura Class Winner
2007 Tuner-Evolution 1st Place Acura Class Winner



Click Me: Check Out My Build Thread - From Stock to 770WHP
jjkz24 is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Team Integra Forums - Team Integra forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in













Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome