Take 90 mins of your time, protect da teg - Page 2 - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
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post #15 of 720 (permalink) Old 06-04-2003, 02:39 PM Thread Starter
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Fuel Cutoff switch oN = no gas to car

so whether your car is running by key or other (remote start, turbo timer, hotwiring, etc), the car gets no gas.. hence it wont run

if you want to get around that with the remote-starter/turbo-timer, you'll need to use the "status" output (its a blue/white wire on DEI remote starts if i remember right, its just a ground signal that is active while the device is in use) to activate a relay that goes around the switch.... like so:

SPST Relay
- Pin 86 and 87: Power feed side of the fuel pump wire
- Pin 30: Fuel Pump side of the wire
- Pin 85: said "Status" output of starter (basically its a wire that is showing ground while the remote starter is activated)

You'd wire the cutoff switch like:
- one side of the switch to Pin 87a
- the other side sliced in at pin 87

that should:
- Allow the pump to get power normally if the cutoff switch is "on" (power flows from pin 87, through the switch, to 87a, to Pin 30, and out to the fuel pump)
- Disable power if the switch is off (power flow gets stopped between pins 87 and 87a, so the pump sees no power)
- Regardless of switch position, grounding the status wire going into pin 87a will allow power to flow from 87 to 30 and out to the pump

wow, thats complicated, lol.. but its definitely doable

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post #16 of 720 (permalink) Old 06-05-2003, 08:02 PM
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Does the hood cable relocation article apply to Gen2's?

respect to the man in the ice cream van.
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post #17 of 720 (permalink) Old 06-05-2003, 08:46 PM
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My theory is that it's best to throw as many surprises at them as possible. Alarms, Clubs, Autolocks, and starter kills seem to be pretty common now, so I wouldn't be surprised if they expect that and know how to defeat those. I even know a guy who was using an Autolock, but that didn't keep his Civic Si from being stolen. He also had a good alarm, which mysteriously stopped working abut 2 days before they took his car. I think it may have had a factory immobliser and/or anti-theft system too.

But having many new suprises will waste their time, they may not know why their trick isn't working or how to get around what you've done, and again it wastes their time. The more time they spend, the higher the chances are that someone's going to see them or that they'll give up on your car (but don't be surprised if they come back later for another attempt).

I do know for a fact that disabling the power unlock switches can be useful. They used that trick to get into Boarder2's GS-R when it was stolen, and they forgot their tool (a specially bent coat hanger) in his car when they dumped it, so I know that's how they got in. They were obviously professionals, and it looks very much like it was the people who stole b18cya's car just Sunday night. I'm not saying they don't have other tricks, but this is how they've been getting into cars around here.

The simple and free solution is to just cut the power unlock wire at the switch. That way you still have power locking (just manual unlocking when inside), it doesn't interfere with your keyless entry, it doesn't look ghetto, and theives will waste their time trying to unlock the car that way.

Or, if you want to be clever and have fully functional power locks, you can use two relays to disable the unlock wires only when the alarm is armed (or by a manual switch, if you want). But that's the more complicated solution and it isn't for people who aren't familiar with wiring and relays.

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post #18 of 720 (permalink) Old 06-06-2003, 10:19 PM
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i just did the cable relocation and it was pretty easy. I feel a litte safer now
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post #19 of 720 (permalink) Old 06-06-2003, 11:27 PM
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the other day i woke up to find a bent up clothes hanger on side of my car, and a few scratches on the hood. tommorrow i will do both of these things now that i finally realize it COULD happen to me. nomatter where you live or who you are it could happen to you, there has never been a car stolen in my town that i know of, it was very surprising that someone would try and break into my car in my own front yard, but it happened.

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post #20 of 720 (permalink) Old 06-06-2003, 11:48 PM
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i had this in the linked post, but deleted it and put it here since more people are looking at it....

let's say i splice into the wire at the fuel pump and put a toggle switch in a secret but sorta close location in the car, what gauge wire would i want to use and toggle switch? would this draw too much current or is this a safe setup? i don't know much about wiring, but i do know how to splice and cut, i may be able to get a solder too, any recommendations for install? pm me or email me if you have anything secret or really good to tell me or suggest, thanks, i want to do this sat night or sunday. I will eventually get an alarm as well, but i do not want remote start.
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post #21 of 720 (permalink) Old 06-07-2003, 12:02 AM
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16 gauge speaker wire works well. I say speaker wire because 1) it's stranded for sure 2) the two wires are stuck together.
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post #22 of 720 (permalink) Old 06-07-2003, 12:05 AM
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but would it work on that part, like if i spliced right from the pump like in the pics? and could i use a lower gauge? like 12 gauge, which i have extra of, or no? or possibly 16 gauge remote wire?
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post #23 of 720 (permalink) Old 06-07-2003, 12:08 AM
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What if u know nothing about wiring at all? Iz this still an easy task (relocating hood switch). My teg waz already stolen once and i have a DEI sidewinder w/ kill/starter interupt and it haz some kind of a vehicle recovery system (VRS) should i alwayz activate the VRS? And i waz also thinking about getting one of those alarms w/ a pager that alerts u on what's going on everytime it's triggered. I also block my car in at night.

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post #24 of 720 (permalink) Old 06-07-2003, 12:10 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TotalChaos17 on Jun/07/03
What if u know nothing about wiring at all? Iz this still an easy task (relocating hood switch).
look at the article, if you think you can handle removing a few phillips head screws and running a cable, then you'll be ok
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post #25 of 720 (permalink) Old 06-07-2003, 12:50 AM
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so is it ok to interrupt the power wire at the pump with like 12 gauge wire and a toggle switch without worry of drawing too much current? i don't want to f anything up there, i did my whole sub install myself, no probs, so i think i can handle the wiring, but i am a little more hesitant here. what would be a good length to run off, under a few feet? thanks for any help.
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post #26 of 720 (permalink) Old 06-07-2003, 01:51 AM Thread Starter
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wire doesnt draw current, electical components do...

so you could use 1/0 gauge for all that matters, that isn't going to change the amount of flow
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post #27 of 720 (permalink) Old 06-07-2003, 09:16 AM
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but it won't cause any problems with the flow if i have all this extra wire in there and the fuel pump? i hope i have the right idea here, cuz i am going to try it tomorrow.
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post #28 of 720 (permalink) Old 06-07-2003, 12:30 PM Thread Starter
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no, it wont
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