Want to turbocharge - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-21-2018, 04:24 PM Thread Starter
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Want to turbocharge

Hey guys I'm Shawn, and I'm new to the forums. I've been wanting to slap a turbo on my car for years now but haven't had the money. Well, I recently got a good paying job, so I figured Id make my dreams come true while the money is still decent. I own 2 integras, an LS and a GSR that's totaled at the moment. Bought the LS to swap my GSR motor into. The donor LS body is extremely clean with no rust on it.Anyways, I've done a good amount of research lately on what it would take to turbocharge my car. And I think now I have more questions that are unanswered than before. Ive done a lot of reading, maybe not enough though. So let me explain what I want to do here.

My objective: I want to take my car out once every few months on the streets and do the occasional quarter mile in it. NOT a daily, but also not a full on race car. It will be driven pretty hard when it is driven though. I want power steering (I think) and definitely would like to keep A/C for hot summer days. Since this car is my baby, I'm probably going to keep it for the next 20 years and I'm looking for ultimate reliability, no shortcuts.

My power goals: ~400-450whp

My solution to get there: sleeved block, connecting rods, connecting rod bolts, pistons, ported and polished head, valves, retainers, and springs, bigger injectors, e85 conversion, engine management, type r oil pump, new water pump, new seals all the way around. Probably forgetting some things as well. A friend I know claims the stock sleeves in a b18c1 can hold 700hp on the right fuel and tune. I've read 500 on here. So, lots of inconsistencies and hearsay. What I want to know is, am I going way overkill for the project at hand?

I found a Sheepey built top mount manifold thats compatible with PS and A/C. The only problem is it only comes in a Precision or Tial flange style. So, I went and looked at turbos and mostly what I see is T3/T4 flange. I'd like a reputable brand turbocharger in the car, something that I can achieve my power goals with and still be able to spool somewhat quickly for street driving. What turbo can I use to get me there? .63 A/R or .86 A/R? What size turbine wheel? 76mm?

Also, I've read forums that say you don't need to worry about sleeving the block, the stock cams are fine, the pistons are fine, etc.. but I've also read it's only a matter of time before something goes horribly wrong making that kind of power on stock internals. I've read about detonation and how important it is to get it properly tuned and run the right fuel.. I'm thinking of running e85. I probably will be running Hondata s300 in the vehicle too, and taking it to a tuner to get it tuned and dyno'ed.

So anyways, I'm very confused on where to start my build. I think the best first step is the fact that I've identified what I want to do with the car aND keep my PS and A/C. So, I have the manifold picked out. But now the questions are:
what size turbo to run?

what kind of internals am I going to need to make the engine bulletproof?

what compression pistons should I be looking for?

Are rods rated for 275hp/cylinder better in terms of not stretching or snapping than rods rated for 175/cylinder? Especially since the desired goals are expected to be 100-115hp/cylinder?
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-23-2018, 03:42 PM
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I highly recommend that you review the pertinent information in Casey's (MeltMan) build topic. He built his turbo GS-R to maintain A/C (not sure about PS). Not many turbo Integras have had as much thought and innovation as this one was. He finally had to sell it, but the history of this build lives on for you to learn from:



https://www.team-integra.net/forum/1...-complete.html


Also check out the "Articles" section under the "TOOLS" tab at the top of the page. This section is often overlooked and is a treasure of useful information.



Good luck with your project. It sounds like you know what you want to do and are doing the research.

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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-26-2018, 09:00 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for your suggestions, I'll definitely utilize the articles section to do research. Some of my questions have been answered doing research, although I can't seem to figure out the necessary rod length I'll need. The stock stroke is 86.36mm or (87.2?) to the best of my knowledge and I'm looking at CP pistons, 10.2:1 compression 84mm. The stroke of those pistons is 89mm so I'm thinking the wrist pin height is different on them. I've read the stock rod length is 137.89mm and the rods that the CP pistons call for is 137mm. So, how does the stroke change based on the piston but still retains stock rod length?

I need to know what rods and pistons I'll be getting, and actually order them before I can send my block to Darton to get sleeved.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-02-2018, 06:59 PM
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Hey Shawn, I'm actually in the same boat as you. Been wanting to boost my Integra for the last 16 years I've owned it, but due to life and lack of money getting in the way, I now finally have the means to make my build dreams come true! It also needs body work now, simply due to having 225k miles and living in the salt belt, but I've had it now for half my life and ill be damned if I'm going to give up on it now after all these years of waiting. Lol.

Anyways, to answer your question, the B18B1 (ls) engine has a stroke of 89 mm, and the B18C1 (gsr) has a stroke of 87.2 mm. The ONLY thing that determines an engine's stroke is the crankshaft. Not the rods, not the piston/wrist pin, just the throw of the crankshaft. The rod length and wrist pin location will affect the compression ratio however, as well as the shape of the piston crown (dome/dish).

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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 09-13-2018, 11:13 AM Thread Starter
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Well, I took a small hiatus in my build due to some house projects and 60 hour work weeks. Still working like crazy but now that I'm a little more caught up on the house I decided I'd give you guys an update.

So, after doing my research I've pretty well figured out what direction I'm going. Last night I bought CP pistons 82mm 10:1 CR flat tops and Manley turbo tuff I beam connecting rods with the upgraded CA625+ bolts. Will update when those come in, I'll start pulling the motor out of my integra and tearing it down to get sent out to a shop for sleeving, boring and honing.

Sleeves will be Darton MID sleeves and I'm thinking about having darton install them and do the machining. I'd like to have o ring grooves milled into the top of them so I can install copper or stainless steel rings onto the top of the sleeve for a better seal. A friend that built a turbo civic did this and said he had no issues and it worked out really well! Any thoughts on this?

I'll be running e85 fuel to reduce detonation chance and tuning on hondata s300.

Eyeing a Garrett GTX3076R turbo with a TiAl v band turbine inlet housing. The reason for this is since I want to retain A/C and P/S is I'll probably be getting a sheepeybuilt manifold that clears both. The downside is that only a TiAl flange is offered on that specific exhaust manifold due to clearance issues under the hood. Anyways, let me know what you guys think and if you have any good recommendations on machine shops that can do quality work for me. Straying away from going local.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 09-19-2018, 09:13 PM Thread Starter
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UPDATE 9/19/18

Last Sunday my dad finally got some time to trailer my GSR over to my house. I was so happy to see it in the garage again! It's been sitting for 2 years in a leaky barn and some cats and mice were running around in it. It's also caked in dust. It was kind of depressing to see it in such a dilapidated state. Nevertheless, the motor is going to it's new home soon so it's all good.

So anyways down to brass tacks: I haven't had much time to work on the car because 12 hour days and I'm just kind of tired and lazy lol. But the last few nights I've been spending a little time in the garage.

So far I've pulled the front bumper, under carriage plastic and the headlights off, removed the radiator and the air intake box, and took the strut bar out. It's coming along slowly but surely. Here are a few pics of the progress. It's not much but I had to start somewhere! I keep imagining the built b18c1 in my LS so tonight I sat the strut bar in the engine bay of my LS and tried to picture the built motor sitting in the bay. Just a little motivation and inspiration as to why I'm going through all this trouble lol.

My pistons and rods that I ordered off real street performance are almost here! Also I decided I'm going to send my block straight to Darton for the machine work. They emailed me instructions on how to safely package my block for shipping and an estimate of how much it would be to sleeve, bore and hone the block. Hopefully they hot tank it and clean it up really nice. I also will have them deck the block and machine o ring seats in the top of the sleeves for me.

Brandi Anderson at Darton East has been a huge help to getting me setup for sending the block.

Also Tyler Piersant at CP Pistons gave me some good options for some coatings I could apply to my pistons. I think I might go with the skirt coating

Here is his response via email:

Yes, you can send them in for us to add the coating. Turnaround time is 2 weeks. Both of those coatings would be perfectly fine for your application. I would like to add, that the skirt coating is not a permanent coating and is designed to help reduce cold and hot temperature friction during break in. As an alternative to the skirt coating, you can go with the WPC treatment which enhances the surface to reduce friction by firing ultra-fine particles towards the surface of the piston at very high speeds. The thermal discharge permanently changes the surface, strengthening the structure and creating a harder more durable part. Due to the nature of the WPC treatment, we highly recommend not going with the Skirt coating and WPC treatment on the same piston.



I think the WPC treatment and Ceramic coating would be my recommendations. But you cannot go wrong with the Moly Skirt coating either. Pricing for the coatings is listed below. Please let me know if you have any questions or would like to proceed.

Piston Skirt Coating: $130.00 for set of 4

Ceramic Coating: $120.00 for set of 4

WPC Treatment: $152.00 for set of 4




Anyways, I'm continuing to work on the engine removal and disassembly and studying motors and builds, reading forums like crazy and figuring out my next part purchases for this car but I'm so excited! Like fuck, I'm actually building my dreams as we speak!

I'll update in a few days with more progress
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