Turbo Installation Guide / Encouragement for who is boosting their's.
--- Video 1 Fine Tuning First Day ---
--- Video 2 Body Work / Plastidip ---
Hello there guys, how are you? It is an honor to be here, a lot of great info here. This is my first Honda Setup, I have been a nissan/bmw guy for years, but I finally got an Integra (too bad not a gsr or Type R)... By the way her name is Fiona.
2 months of research and waiting for parts, and I was able to shove an eBay turbo in my integra in about 24 / 25 hours of work in my driveway. I would have done it in 17 ish if I didnt have to cut my downpipe in 3 sections to modify it conpletely to fit, but it's okay it's done.
This is my setup: ***Note. As parts break, I will replace them with better ones. I just wanted to get started at a low budget. I cut as little corners as possible.
$162 New AEM 30-4110 Wideband to Pin D10 of ECU (obd1 Conversion)
$580 New eBay .50 trim turbo kit
$250 Used Hondata S300 + OBD1 Harness.
$150 P06 Used USDM ECU (had to cut RESISTORS HERE
to use D10)
$15 Honda ECU Hondata Acceptance Mod (to be able to insert hondata)
$83 eBay Walbro 255 CC Fuel Pump (is this the real deal? )
$159.95 eBay 440CC Injectors (High Impedance, no resistor box needed)
$9.50 Fuel Pressure Gauge (to be able to see fuel pump is pumping the desired pressure)
$8.95 Fuel Pressure Gauge Banjo Adapter (to be able to use fuel pressure gauge above)
$1420 ish Total Spent if my math above is correct.
I've always had tools... $300 or less would have been enough, to do the whole job.
The hardest part about the installation was:
1) Modifying down pipe to fit (WOW you have no idea) I don't weld on a daily basis... And this gasless flux $89 dollar harbor freight welder didn't help
2) Installing Oil Pen return line (piece of cake)
The Installation Process:
This is is the order in which I installed my whole setup:
1) Install New OBD1 Harness + Obd1 ECU. Get the car to start (it already had a stock basemap in it).
2) Remove ECU, and solder everything needed so the ECU will accept a hondata chip (if you dont mind spending, you can find a chipped ECU with hondata ready)
3) Install Hondata Software, USB drivers, and check that Hondata is communicating with laptop.
4) Install new fuel pump.
5) Install New Injectors.
6) At this point, Try to start car with out modifying tuning, If it idles too rough stop and retune as needed. (I didnt have to retune at this step) let it idle for a couple of minutes, and stare at injectors to make sure you have no leaks.
7) Install Fuel Pressure gauge adapter and gauge to fuel filter at firewall (after doing this, I realized I should have done this before the new fuel pump to compare before and after PSI).
8)Remove AC Compressor + Bracket + Belt, Headers, etc... Remove Fan Assemblies, I managed to leave the radiator in place through out the whole setup, the AC condenser is still in the car hahahahahaha. Remove all the AC lines from firewall (starting at battery tray area), Remove Radiator over Flow bottle, Remove Front bumper cover.
9)Clock Turbo, install to turbo manifold, install manifold + Turbo, dont forget gaskets.
10)Remove fly wheel cover to gain access to oil pan's hidden bolts. Drain Oil, remove oil pan. AIM / Plan turbo return line path, make sure it's gravity friendly and be sure not to block oil pan bolts with return fitting. Well, check return line path prior to removing oil pan, dont be a dumb ass like me
11) After drilling / Soldering oil pen bung, leak test it, and if desired, reinforce the outer section with steel stick jb weld. This is not needed though. Reinstall Oil Pan.
12) Install turbo return line from turbo return fitting to oil pan bung you just welded.
13) On the back of the engine, remove oil filter. Remove Oil Pressure Sensor right next to it. Install turbo kit supplied Adapter oil splitter to block. Now split 1 exit to the oil pressure sensor you removed in this step, and 1 exit to the oil feed line. Then Connect oil feed line to turbo, should have a built in oil restrictor but make sure. I got an oil filter sandwitch adapter, but it didn't fit in my car... I don't really trust the Brass oil splitter, but It will have to do for now.
14) Run charge pipe to Throttle Body, go down near the fender, set intercooler in zip ties temporarely, and connect all the way to the turbo.
15)Install Down Pipe. I hope you dont have the 9 hour nightmere I had. If I had some 1 to help me hold / tack weld the sections I had to cut, I would have done this step in just a few hours.
16) Install wastegate and blow off valve.
17) Splice fuel pressure regulator vacum hose with T splitters, to Blow Off Valve, Wastegate, and Boost gauge.
18) Drop Wideband sensor from the top down so you dont have to fish the wires later. Install Wideband to Downpipe, run wideband wires, and boost gauge vacum hose into Dash Board.
19)Install boost gauge, wide band to good ground, and stereo Fuse (I made my own fuse box for every accesorie. I will NOT splice/cut wires unless absolutely necessary) here is a link to the Fuse Box I used
20) Install Oil Filter, Add engine oil... Install battery tray and battery and connect wires.
21) Run Wideband White Wire to pin D10 on ECU (research if your ECU version requires the removal of 2 resistors like mine did). You dont want to use D14 which is the stock O2 sensor because you will have a smaller range, and theres no reason to do that.
22) Find pin D10 on ECU (mine was green / red I think). Cut it, dont T into it. Connect Wideband white wire to it.
23) Connect Battery terminals, connect ECU to Hondata software in laptop, Change the injector settings, Advanced closed loop settings, set wideband sensor / d10 input. If you need a base map to get you started I can provide you with one, and there are tons in the internet.
24) Remove spark plugs, GAP spark plugs I gapped mine to about .30 or .33 I believe.
25) Turn car on... Make sure if the car is stuttering, you play arround with the tuning. If you are CLUELESS about what you are doing in the tunning, at this point bring the car to a Dyno Shop. If it is drivable, drive it make no boost, if not, tow it. Also, make sure there are NO oil leaks on your oil pan, and oil fittings. Double check the oil split fitting you installed behind the engine make sure theres no leaks... I suggest leaving the car running at idle if it's idling smooth enough, and place a cardboard under the car. Keep staring none stop at injectors, fuel pressure / adapter, oil fittings, etc make sure EVERY FOREIGN PART has no leaks.
Within 4 hours of messing arround with hondata, as seen on video 1 above, I was able to make the car run OKAY... The second day after several adjustments it runs MUCH MUCH better already... The clutch slips if I do WOT, but thats a good sign
I have been driving the car from work and home daily, as I log the fuel adjustment through out the table. I drive it at every possible condition, to make sure I cover the table.. Some areas of the table though, will probably never be used by me or anybody else, but if you are tuning it yourself you will know what I mean.
Also, I probably made many mistakes in the order of the process but please dont judge, I I did it my self in a gravel drive way a small jack and a jack stand.
... I don't want to achieve that much power, I just want a fun daily driver. The turbo works beautiful, but we will see how long it lasts I will let you guys know if the chinese turbo goes bad. Also, when it does, Ill be getting some sort of ball bearing turbo, and possibly getting some nice internals.
I love hondas !!! <3 .. No more bmw, no more nissan for me !
Sorry for the bad grammar and ponctuation, english is not my first language, and aint nobody got time to be spell checking...
I hope this will help you do it your selfers out there.
I need an advice please... Can any body recommend a not too expensive daily driving organic clutch kit to handle 260 / 270 ish HP ? I was looking for a stage 2 if possible. Thanks guys.