My opinion is simply that a brand new block and a brand new head from the stealership is a waste of money. There was no functional difference between your Gsr block and itr block other than one says b18c5 on the outside. For the amount spent buying these new parts from the dealer you could have probably sleeved your Gsr block and bought some forged pistons and nice rods. Maybe even had the Gsr head ported
Just my $.02..
I see what your saying! but like i said in my past experience rebuilding a gsr block is not what i wanted to do again, for one many people may argue against this but this is based upon my engine building experience, The motors never really perform like they should! now i have had many rep machine shops machine my blocks and heads but they just eventually burn oil ect. Not to say it cant happen to this new block or head but the fact knowing it was assembled by honda gives me great piece of mine! not having to worrie about how well the machinist assembled you motor theres no milling or decking involved and so the motor is basically brand new like the day you would of buaht a new Type r.
Second in my area shops usually will charge $1,200-$2,000+ dep on what the block needs. My last gsr block cost me around $2,000 for a complete rebuild pistons bearings oil water pump gaskets ect. I got my new block for $2,500 complete.
Also to get a gsr head rebuilt with all new parts and a slight port n polish im looking at well over $1,000. I got the new ITR head complete with cams and new valve train for $1,500. The head needed to be assembled but the valve springs and ret. are installed by the factory.
Also i had a M factory race transmition and many other gsr trans with lsd ect. and they all never performed right. gears will grind and its not fun pulling a trans off or driving daily and your gears grind! to me its so anoying! even with a well built running motor i fell the motor feels like shit just because everytime i shift theres a issue. So i spent a good amount on a M factory trans that was suposlly low miles with all m f gears and lsd ect. The trans was fun But it had a huge 5th gear grind that even with 3 attempts to fix it it didnt work, i had a few guys tear it down replace the gear and it still grinded so fet up with it i sold it and for just about a lil less i baught it for and aded just a few bucks and got a new ITR trans for $1,100 man what a difrence! butter shifts! and the LSD is awsome! the gearing is sweet and smooth! i couldnt of made a better choice when it came to the drive train.
As far as the procharger setup goes how deep can you u under drive that thing? As in what is the max boost potential available with pulley options? A centrifugal supercharger is simply a belt driven turbo. Turbos however much greater boost output potential as they are not limited by belt/pulley speed.
Procharger claims my unit can handle 25psi. im not gonna go over 12psi untill i have sleaves. The newer line of blowers released can handle 40+psi, im sure they can offer the new blower desighn to work on the c1-a model to produce that 40+ psi. havent asked them yet.
I'm not sure how my comments come off but I'm certainly not trying to be rude. I am just making some valid points that should be brought to the spotlight about this setup. On the other hand I would like to say that you should be proud you put it all together with your own two hands.
Not at all, thanks for your input, Yes i am very proud of the work iv done i can actually say i did all this by my self, it took many long hours streesfull nights overtime at work and i hope this will inspire more people to do what they like with there cars as they are a expression of our personality.
Its just i have heard this time after time after time! either you spent to much on the motor because its brand new or you could have just got a turbo and made more power! and the reality of it is i diddnt! the motor cost me just about the same as a rebuilt unit and i have driven many turbo cars supercharged hondas and also raced them at the track but you know what i like this setup by far way better, it doesnt make 400hp yet lol like a turbo would although theres a hatch making 400+hp with this unit so the potential is there but it makes for a great street car power band so once its tuned i can share my dyno graph. I have been thinking about adding a JRSC for extra low and mid range but i havent got that far yet. But theres a few setups iv seen that have a compound setup using this procharger unit with either a turbo or JRSC. I like the idea of the JRSC for better low and mid throtle responce and the pro charger to take over in the higher rpm. but i dont think ill want to do this unitill i get me a sleaved block and ported head. B20vtec is what iv been thinking, but thats just in the air im not gonna get to over my head but sieng these compound setups makes me want to do it.
But right now im going for a sleaper look and my goal is to make the motor look street legal, all my power adders are carbed aproved so police shouldnt have any reason to give me a ticket unless its for a fix it ticket for the muffler or they see im running no cat. My cam gears will be hidden and i have a DC carb plate welded to my skunk2 header lol, intake,intake manifold, cams,header, supercharger all have c.a carb exempt numbers. Because here in cali its hard to even have slightly moded honda let alone something of this caliber.