Team Integra Forums banner

My ATI pro charged Integra GSR street car

34K views 104 replies 27 participants last post by  RootsGSR 
#1 ·
Hello Im wunfstgsr id like to share my 1999'' ATI procharged Integra GSR project. Im a member on honda-tech.com and have posted my prevoius procharged setup but lately it seems dead there and no one seems interested in the procharger setups so im gonna see if theres anyone here with a procharged setups and can chime in with coments. Iv had a few JRSC motor setups and the last setup i had with the pro charger made 275hp @7psi. at church auto motive. I have a new project/setup that should be ready by the end of earlie this month. All motor assembly and work was done by me.

car:
1999" Integra gsr donor blown motor.

setup:
New Type r head from dealer
New ITR block from dealer
New ITR trans from dealer
bisimoto cam gears
Skunk 2 tunner 1 cams
Skunk2 alpha valve springs and *** retainers
Skunk 2 pro series manifold ported 70mm
Skunk 2 70mm Alpha throtle body with coolant bypass
Skunk 2 fuel rail
Skunk 2 vtec solinoid
Skunk 2 Alpha header
Skunk 2 mega r 2.5'' cat back
ed hanson 2.5'' test pipe
Injen 3'' cold air intake arm
AEM wide band air fuel boost fail safe gauge!
AEM coil on plug conversion
AEM twin fire module
rywire twin fire harness
AEM EMS V2
rc 550cc injectors
ATI pro charger super charger 9-12 psi boost pulley
HKS ssq bov tucked
front mount intercooler with 2.4'' charge pipes
out law engineering thermal spacer kit

suspention: 97 spec jdm ITR 4x114.3 conversion with 97 specv ITR cw wheels

Interior:
recarro srd seats
usdm rear itr seats
ukdm ITR gauge cluster
cf a pillars
em racing cpillar bar
spoon stearing wheal
spoon shift nob
itr shift boot
itr climate control

I found a local tuner Dardan at Dynotech Motorsports who will help me get the car setup and will be doing the tuning.






























 
See less See more
29
#7 · (Edited)
Ahh I loveee seeing these procharger set ups on Tegs. They have become unique and not something you see every day. And they make good power for 7 PSI with that blower! All the instant torque of an SC, but with Intercooler which = way lower IATs.

Yes i only have seen domestic cars like mustangs ect running prochargers they get a kick when they find out its a pro charger unit. They make great power! and the fact its got a air to air intercooler makes them very efficiant. The whole desighn makes for a great supercharger. Check the video from procharger, I made 285hp @12psi on a jackson supercharger on this motor with similar mods, I just made 275hp @6psi with the Pro charger on the last dyno with the basic same mods on the same dyno and tuner. So its way much more efficiant! the blower never got hot at all during the dyno! on the JRSC/LHT setup the manifold got very hot! even with the LHT water cooler.


Check out the tech video from procharger.

http://youtu.be/ImvM5N-H-10



Wow, pretty much a new ITR motor from the dealer! Talk about fresh! That must have been a pretty penny!
Sub'd for more!
ow yea lol well i sold the last motor setup so it paid for its self mostly.

This is quite interesting, although I'd be concerned about debris flying into the procharger. What kind of filter setup are you going with?

Looking forward to the numbers
Ow not to worrie i didnt get the filter thats provided from procharger but a simple lil filter from autozone works perfect. heres a pic of it on the last setup i had. I hope to hit around 300whp @12 psi





What's up man..I was wondering when I would see you on team integra.this guy always has some nice stuff and this might be the first pro charged integra on the site.
Hey man whats up! great to to know someone reconizes me haha! Well i decided to come here becouse it seems not to many are interested over on honda-tech! its either the jackson supercharger every one is ranting about or a turbo me im not trying to be like the rest, im unique and so will my car so thats why i love the procharger! and it blows the JRSC out the roof! and i have out performed many turbo cars and the setup previouse was detuned imo with 7psi and its setup it had. This new setup will by far surpass that setup with the cams and ignition setup ect. i have changed nearly everything. The sound is what also sells me! it sounds wicked! its guaranteed im gona catch your attention by the spooling sound at such low idle! some come up and say man what turbo is that it spools very earlie or what kind of turbo is that when they hear the bov and if they look in the bay they dont see much but a n.a looking motor. Heres some more pics!











 
#9 · (Edited)
Tell me where i spent money in the wrong place? i wont be mad its wy i ask for comments, remember this motor had a jrsc setup on before this and also was a stock motor for a brief time. Check my build link below i shared. The pro charger cost me less than $2,000, i sold the motor setup before this for just about the same amount spent on all the new ITR engine. IMO instead of rebuilding a gsr head and block which i have done many times i went for a new engine from the dealer that cost just about the same and im very please on how its performing. But im sure to you it looks like i bought all this new at once, no this took a long time to get where its at now. This current setup is all new compared to the last so i want to share my results here in this website. Believe me im not rich :)

C.A street sleeper!! want feedback/comments lots a pics!!*** - Page 12 - Honda-Tech
 
#10 ·
My opinion is simply that a brand new block and a brand new head from the stealership is a waste of money. There was no functional difference between your Gsr block and itr block other than one says b18c5 on the outside. For the amount spent buying these new parts from the dealer you could have probably sleeved your Gsr block and bought some forged pistons and nice rods. Maybe even had the Gsr head ported.

Just my $.02

As far as the procharger setup goes how deep can you u under drive that thing? As in what is the max boost potential available with pulley options? A centrifugal supercharger is simply a belt driven turbo. Turbos however much greater boost output potential as they are not limited by belt/pulley speed.

I'm not sure how my comments come off but I'm certainly not trying to be rude. I am just making some valid points that should be brought to the spotlight about this setup. On the other hand I would like to say that you should be proud you put it all together with your own two hands.
 
#11 · (Edited)
My opinion is simply that a brand new block and a brand new head from the stealership is a waste of money. There was no functional difference between your Gsr block and itr block other than one says b18c5 on the outside. For the amount spent buying these new parts from the dealer you could have probably sleeved your Gsr block and bought some forged pistons and nice rods. Maybe even had the Gsr head ported

Just my $.02..
I see what your saying! but like i said in my past experience rebuilding a gsr block is not what i wanted to do again, for one many people may argue against this but this is based upon my engine building experience, The motors never really perform like they should! now i have had many rep machine shops machine my blocks and heads but they just eventually burn oil ect. Not to say it cant happen to this new block or head but the fact knowing it was assembled by honda gives me great piece of mine! not having to worrie about how well the machinist assembled you motor theres no milling or decking involved and so the motor is basically brand new like the day you would of buaht a new Type r.


Second in my area shops usually will charge $1,200-$2,000+ dep on what the block needs. My last gsr block cost me around $2,000 for a complete rebuild pistons bearings oil water pump gaskets ect. I got my new block for $2,500 complete.


Also to get a gsr head rebuilt with all new parts and a slight port n polish im looking at well over $1,000. I got the new ITR head complete with cams and new valve train for $1,500. The head needed to be assembled but the valve springs and ret. are installed by the factory.

Also i had a M factory race transmition and many other gsr trans with lsd ect. and they all never performed right. gears will grind and its not fun pulling a trans off or driving daily and your gears grind! to me its so anoying! even with a well built running motor i fell the motor feels like **** just because everytime i shift theres a issue. So i spent a good amount on a M factory trans that was suposlly low miles with all m f gears and lsd ect. The trans was fun But it had a huge 5th gear grind that even with 3 attempts to fix it it didnt work, i had a few guys tear it down replace the gear and it still grinded so fet up with it i sold it and for just about a lil less i baught it for and aded just a few bucks and got a new ITR trans for $1,100 man what a difrence! butter shifts! and the LSD is awsome! the gearing is sweet and smooth! i couldnt of made a better choice when it came to the drive train.


As far as the procharger setup goes how deep can you u under drive that thing? As in what is the max boost potential available with pulley options? A centrifugal supercharger is simply a belt driven turbo. Turbos however much greater boost output potential as they are not limited by belt/pulley speed.


Procharger claims my unit can handle 25psi. im not gonna go over 12psi untill i have sleaves. The newer line of blowers released can handle 40+psi, im sure they can offer the new blower desighn to work on the c1-a model to produce that 40+ psi. havent asked them yet.


I'm not sure how my comments come off but I'm certainly not trying to be rude. I am just making some valid points that should be brought to the spotlight about this setup. On the other hand I would like to say that you should be proud you put it all together with your own two hands.
Not at all, thanks for your input, Yes i am very proud of the work iv done i can actually say i did all this by my self, it took many long hours streesfull nights overtime at work and i hope this will inspire more people to do what they like with there cars as they are a expression of our personality.

Its just i have heard this time after time after time! either you spent to much on the motor because its brand new or you could have just got a turbo and made more power! and the reality of it is i diddnt! the motor cost me just about the same as a rebuilt unit and i have driven many turbo cars supercharged hondas and also raced them at the track but you know what i like this setup by far way better, it doesnt make 400hp yet lol like a turbo would although theres a hatch making 400+hp with this unit so the potential is there but it makes for a great street car power band so once its tuned i can share my dyno graph. I have been thinking about adding a JRSC for extra low and mid range but i havent got that far yet. But theres a few setups iv seen that have a compound setup using this procharger unit with either a turbo or JRSC. I like the idea of the JRSC for better low and mid throtle responce and the pro charger to take over in the higher rpm. but i dont think ill want to do this unitill i get me a sleaved block and ported head. B20vtec is what iv been thinking, but thats just in the air im not gonna get to over my head but sieng these compound setups makes me want to do it.

But right now im going for a sleaper look and my goal is to make the motor look street legal, all my power adders are carbed aproved so police shouldnt have any reason to give me a ticket unless its for a fix it ticket for the muffler or they see im running no cat. My cam gears will be hidden and i have a DC carb plate welded to my skunk2 header lol, intake,intake manifold, cams,header, supercharger all have c.a carb exempt numbers. Because here in cali its hard to even have slightly moded honda let alone something of this caliber.
 
#12 ·
You are doing something right if the turbo guys are getting Jealous ;)

But honestly, this set up is awesome. And by the looks of the pictures, the mounting hardware and blower housing are still all above the oil pan and out of harms way. Which is NOT something that is possible with a 3 inch DP with a Turbo set up.

I was curious though, do these chargers use a sealed gearbox with oil in it? Or do you have to use an oil feed line like a turbo? The reason I asked is how would you do a drain back into the pan with it sitting so low.

I did some maintenance on a Procharged S2K and it used an oil feed like a turbo. Just curious thats all!
 
#13 · (Edited)
You are doing something right if the turbo guys are getting Jealous ;)
But honestly, this set up is awesome. And by the looks of the pictures, the mounting hardware and blower housing are still all above the oil pan and out of harms way. Which is NOT something that is possible with a 3 inch DP with a Turbo set up.
haha yea man! im not being ****y or anything im very humble and responsible i rarley race on the freeway im a drag strip guy to keep it all legit. But i have raced a few turbo cars on the freeway and had my share of wins.


I was curious though, do these chargers use a sealed gearbox with oil in it? Or do you have to use an oil feed line like a turbo? The reason I asked is how would you do a drain back into the pan with it sitting so low.

I did some maintenance on a Procharged S2K and it used an oil feed like a turbo. Just curious thats all!
yes the great part about this unit is its a self contained oiled supercharger! no oil line feed or oil mixing with the motor! so unlike a turbo this is not conected to the motors oil. theres a small dipstick to check the oil and it takes a very small omount of sc oil to refill it. Not sure about the sk procharger but there all self contained as far as i know, you may have mistaken it for a vortech or another similar sc, but this is one of the reasons why i love this so much theres no oil taping, no heat transfer, its intercooled and has a 25psi max output. other superchargers max out at aropund 15 psi.
 
#23 · (Edited)
Thank you.

I believe the S2K kit must have used another blower. The kit was made by Comptech and I forget who supplied the SC for the kit, obviously wasn't Procharger though.
It had to be the old comptech supercharger!

But man this set up is so much less maintenance than a turbo set up. The self contained oil set up is so ideal. No heat from the engine oil (Which will inturn keep your oil temps down as well), PLUS an intercooler for the charge. And I believe your total charge piping length is probably a foot or so shorter than the common B series turbo set up.

:runs off to research Prochargers: :icon_twisted:

EDIT: Wow that Tech video. These things are so damn simple. I can't believe more people haven;t used these set ups.. There has to be a catch. This blows a turbo set up (sub 400 WHP) out of the water, in every way possible.
I just think everyone leaned taward the turbo scene imo.

I've seen this on H-T, lots of work put into this setup. Do you have any dyno graphs?
I do ill post em up soon once i get my new dyno done., this first proto type setup made 275hp and 191 lbft @ 7 psi! at churches

ITR gsr intake cam ITr ex cam
Sk2 red pro series intake manifold
ITR block
DC 4-1 header
custom test pipe by Ed Hanson
Buddy club spec 3 catback 2.5''
Magna flow muffler w/gsr polished tip 2.5''
ATI Pro Charger
HKS black series ssq blow off valve
front mount intercooler painted black 2 1/4
rc 550 cc injectors w/ password JDM injector harness
walbro 255lb fuel pump
hondata s100

I retuned back at churches with a TDM tri y header and 3'' cat back ex.and 70mm sk2 alpha tb and new pulley good for 10-12psi and the new upgrades lost hp and tq on the dyno and lost 2-3psi of boost, last tune made 275hp @7psi, new upgrades made 266hp and still boosts 7psi with new smaller pulley,. the big hp and tq loss was i think mainly cause theres a 6mm step at the throtle inlet cause i didnt port match the pro series manifold. I really dont know what cause the psi to not rise, maybe the 3'' ex and tri y header.

I recently did a base line pull no tuning at a local dyno (car tune in s.d) to see where the motor stands with the new current upgrades but with the 3.15'' (7psi pulley) this is on a roller dyno not a dyna pack dyno like at churches, there dyno reads aprox 45-50hp more! base line pull hit 240 whp @ 6.4 psi, which would translate to roughly 295 hp on churches dyno untuned! with the new current setup. I figure with the port match and new setup it made roughly a gain of 25whp untuned. I will now be retuning the motor with the new AEM gear and a smaller s.c. pulley to achieve 10-12 psi. at dynotech motorsports.

current setup:
Bisimoto cam gears
Skunk 2 tunner 1 cams
Skunk 2 pro series manifold ported 70mm
Skunk 2 70mm Alpha throtle body with coolant bypass
Skunk 2 fuel rail
Skunk 2 vtec solinoid
Skunk 2 Alpha header
Skunk 2 mega r 2.5'' cat back
ed hanson 2.5'' test pipe
Injen 3'' cold air intake arm
AEM coil on plug conversion
AEM twin fire module
AEM EMS V2
rc 550cc injectors
ATI pro charger super charger 9-12 psi boost pulley
HKS ssq bov tucked
front mount intercooler with 2.4'' charge pipes
out law engineering thermal spacer kit


This setup shared here is almost all difrent, i changed almost all the mods so im interested on the outcome. Getting the psi to rise seems tricky, im using a smaller 2.95'' pulley and a big B20 crank pulley to try and raise it above 10psi this time. But i will not have it dynoed at churches going with a new tuner.

^No kidding. Except one issue.. It is a $5k kit.. Yikes! :eek:

And it basically is the charger, IC, piping, and mounting hardware for the charger (belt, pulley, etc..)
I got mine for less than $1500 used, and there way less than $5k just find a seller who sells them i seen a guy post here that had one a while back and claimed he sold them pretty cheap new.

Wow! Well based off that statement nvm �� 5k will more than get me my goals and be reliable. I am envious of your setup though. Went a different route and sometimes it pays off, and in your case it really paid off. ��

Sent from my iPhone using AG Free
Imo its better than any turbo kit i can ever find or put together for the price and its simplicity and ease with maintence and install makes it even more worth it. Also its street legal and comes with a carb sticker.

Unless.... I can pick up a slightly used procharger kit... ��


Sent from my iPhone using AG Free
just search for a used one, but there real hard to find sometimes, i came across one on honda-tech.com but the blades looked rusted so i passed on it but i would of got it for a future project just because it was going for pretty cheap.

I kind of agree with Josh. All the fancy AEM ignition stuff is not necessary, especially where you are at. Stock ignition is usually healthy enough for 500+ before coils.

But the car is nice and Im sure its fun as hell.
Yea of course the oem ingnition is "good enough" but i sugest you should research what the advantages a cop kit can give over the oem ign. it eliminates the dwell issues common to the factory distributor as RPM increases by providing an individual coil for each cylinder.

It is commonly known that the factory igniter on the B-Series engine is prone to failure. Further, as distributors age timing signal quality can decrease and lead to poor engine performance. AEM’s B-Series COP Conversion Kit eliminates energy losses associated with a deteriorated cap/rotor/wire assembly and includes an igniter that has been tested under the most rigorous conditions we could conceive—run at over 10,000 RPM for over 24 hours with a dwell time that was advanced almost 50% of the way past current saturation (3.2mS versus 2.2mS)—and it did not fail.

IMO the hondata s100 is outdated so instead of going with a s300 i researched the new AEM V2 ems! and it has very great reviews and has so many great features one which is traction control boost control 2 step rev limiter smooth boost per speed functions speed governor and much more. along that it alowed me to upgrade to the aem cop kit and run the new AEM fail safe boost gauge that was released not to long ago! a new gauge that will literally save your motor from blowing in the event it goes lean in any cond.

I am a firm beiever that the ems is if the one the most important parts of a engine build. All the free software to tune your car is not really safe, theres storys of free soft ware glitching and motors being destroyed, motors going lean from not having a wide band gauge for air and fuel. so for this new setup i wanted to upgrade the ignition system as part of the engine build, to many people over look there engine managment.

All the aem upgrades were baught new but not anything near retail lol i got a great deal on the cop kit i couldnt pass, i got a huge discount off the AEM v2 and my a.f gauge from aem was greatly discounted by a friend of mine who sells them whole sale.

Thanks guys for the positive comments!
 
#20 ·
Wow! Well based off that statement nvm ? 5k will more than get me my goals and be reliable. I am envious of your setup though. Went a different route and sometimes it pays off, and in your case it really paid off. ?


Sent from my iPhone using AG Free
 
#22 ·
I kind of agree with Josh. All the fancy AEM ignition stuff is not necessary, especially where you are at. Stock ignition is usually healthy enough for 500+ before coils.

But the car is nice and Im sure its fun as hell.
 
#28 ·
"New Type r head from dealer
New ITR block from dealer
New ITR trans from dealer"

"My last gsr block cost me around $2,000 for a complete rebuild pistons bearings oil water pump gaskets ect. I got my new block for $2,500 complete."

Bought from dealership? The hell? I find this VERY hard to believe. An ITR crank alone (from acuraoemparts, cheaper than dealership) is a grand. I was talking to a dealership out of curiosity awhile ago about buying a new engine and they said it would run up and over 10 grand. Not hating or anything I'm just flustered at the price of this, I feel like if new engines were that cheap Machine shops wouldn't even exist. My rebuild using existing parts and replacing some others is running around $2000 (and trying to stay conservative). To have a new engine for $2500 is mind boggling.
 
#30 ·
Seems pretty dead on this site in the f.i forums, haven't seen much activity here.
Well i just upgraded my valve train, i installed skunk 2 alpha valve spring and retainers with the cylinder head still on, it was back breaking work. Also upgrade the boost pulley and installed a overdrive crank pulley from a crv so more boost is available. Lost some cash this weak somehow so ill be tuning it sometime next weak.
 
#34 ·
Thank you! hopefully ill have good vids of the dyno and some street runs for people to see how this car is. I walked a dodge srt-4 on the freeway then a sti saw and came and i walked him like nothing, shifting at 7-8k on a 3rd gear pull, still on the last base map tune. Hopefully the new tune will wake the motor up to its full potential and ill take it to full boost. I glanced at my boost gauge and saw around 8-9 psi at 7-8k rpm i guess im at around 10-11 psi at redline at wot.
 
#32 ·
Interesting, thanks for showing info on those prices wunfstgsr.

I checked over my expenses on my build, and comparing the prices I'd still always go the rebuild route. I do see where you are coming from. I can see how easily headaches can happen buying used (finding bad crank/bad clearances/the problems that can come with a backyard build). But its still very pricey. The block comes complete, which is nice - the block for that price I'd actually consider. While I'm nowhere near your cost, there were so many headaches, that and running around. Every time I notice I'm missing another bolt is another bit of running around trying to find one for example.

My GSR rebuild is running around $2650. That includes the price I paid for the block and head. But also includes a bunch of brand newparts (arp bolts/oem valve guides/oem dip stick/oem gaskets/oem bearings (pricey bastards)/tensioner/magnetic drain/thermostat/distrib/sandwich adapter/turbo oil fittings/oem pistons). And on top of that the block and head were worked over well (valve seats/cleaned/resurfacing/overbore/rings/).

Not running yet though... going in within a few weeks. So I guess I can't say for reliability (if it DOES fail it will more than likely be because this is my first build as an amateur)
 
#33 ·
Interesting, thanks for showing info on those prices wunfstgsr.

I checked over my expenses on my build, and comparing the prices I'd still always go the rebuild route. I do see where you are coming from. I can see how easily headaches can happen buying used (finding bad crank/bad clearances/the problems that can come with a backyard build). But its still very pricey. The block comes complete, which is nice - the block for that price I'd actually consider. While I'm nowhere near your cost, there were so many headaches, that and running around. Every time I notice I'm missing another bolt is another bit of running around trying to find one for example.

My GSR rebuild is running around $2650. That includes the price I paid for the block and head. But also includes a bunch of brand newparts (arp bolts/oem valve guides/oem dip stick/oem gaskets/oem bearings (pricey bastards)/tensioner/magnetic drain/thermostat/distrib/sandwich adapter/turbo oil fittings/oem pistons). And on top of that the block and head were worked over well (valve seats/cleaned/resurfacing/overbore/rings/).

Not running yet though... going in within a few weeks. So I guess I can't say for reliability (if it DOES fail it will more than likely be because this is my first build as an amateur)
Your welcome! Just take your time dont rush it at all. I built my first b series when i was 23. Have the machine shop assemble the block complete and the rest is easy, assembling the head and all the components is pretty straight foward if you do enough research on the procedure. Theres many vids and how to's on assembling the motor to help.
 
#37 ·
Yea man i search for months and passed on many kits like the comptech, vortech and came across this and never heard of it and it was like everything i wanted, It utilized a intercooler like i wanted and It could use a bov and it sounds 100 times better than my old JRSC setup, It has a higher psi output and blows much cooler air. I love this kit!
 
#39 · (Edited)
Yes well i just upgraded my valve train, i installed skunk 2 alpha valve spring and retainers with the cylinder head still on!, it was back breaking work. Also upgrade the boost pulley and installed a overdrive crank pulley from a crv so more boost is available. Lots of low and mid range has been freed up.
I also started to get mass compressor surge from the upgraded boost pulleys. So i had to disable the s.c and save up for a Pro Charger "big red" race surge valve. I recently got it in and welded up to my charge piping right after the blower so now theres no more compressor surge and the motor feels much more crisp and gets into boost much better. The sound is awesome!! sounds like a big water fall under my hood untill i get into boost, The bov sound is sweet!







I installed the big red surge valve right where the small piece of charge pipe is going in to the intercooler in the pic above.

I just set the dyno for this tues so hopefully ill have it done by next weak. The motor should see somewhere around 300 whp so ill see how close my guess is. The motor feels much more crisp and is very fun to drive.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top