My ATI pro charged Integra GSR street car - Page 2 - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
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post #15 of 105 (permalink) Old 10-10-2012, 10:34 AM
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-Spending money I don't have

-On crap I don't need

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post #16 of 105 (permalink) Old 10-10-2012, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by wunfstgsr View Post
haha yea man! im not being cocky or anything im very humble and responsible i rarley race on the freeway im a drag strip guy to keep it all legit. But i have raced a few turbo cars on the freeway and had my share of wins.




yes the great part about this unit is its a self contained oiled supercharger! no oil line feed or oil mixing with the motor! so unlike a turbo this is not conected to the motors oil. theres a small dipstick to check the oil and it takes a very small omount of sc oil to refill it. Not sure about the sk procharger but there all self contained as far as i know, you may have mistaken it for a vortech or another similar sc, but this is one of the reasons why i love this so much theres no oil taping, no heat transfer, its intercooled and has a 25psi max output. other superchargers max out at aropund 15 psi.
I believe the S2K kit must have used another blower. The kit was made by Comptech and I forget who supplied the SC for the kit, obviously wasn't Procharger though.

But man this set up is so much less maintenance than a turbo set up. The self contained oil set up is so ideal. No heat from the engine oil (Which will inturn keep your oil temps down as well), PLUS an intercooler for the charge. And I believe your total charge piping length is probably a foot or so shorter than the common B series turbo set up.

:runs off to research Prochargers:

EDIT: Wow that Tech video. These things are so damn simple. I can't believe more people haven;t used these set ups.. There has to be a catch. This blows a turbo set up (sub 400 WHP) out of the water, in every way possible.

Last edited by Dustin96LS; 10-10-2012 at 11:53 AM.
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post #17 of 105 (permalink) Old 10-10-2012, 11:48 AM
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I've seen this on H-T, lots of work put into this setup. Do you have any dyno graphs?

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post #18 of 105 (permalink) Old 10-10-2012, 12:23 PM
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This really has be leaning away from turbo now..... :/


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post #19 of 105 (permalink) Old 10-10-2012, 01:02 PM
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This really has be leaning away from turbo now..... :/


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^No kidding. Except one issue.. It is a $5k kit.. Yikes!

And it basically is the charger, IC, piping, and mounting hardware for the charger (belt, pulley, etc..)
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post #20 of 105 (permalink) Old 10-10-2012, 01:11 PM
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Wow! Well based off that statement nvm 😁 5k will more than get me my goals and be reliable. I am envious of your setup though. Went a different route and sometimes it pays off, and in your case it really paid off. 👍


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post #21 of 105 (permalink) Old 10-10-2012, 01:12 PM
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Unless.... I can pick up a slightly used procharger kit... 😏


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post #22 of 105 (permalink) Old 10-10-2012, 01:55 PM
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I kind of agree with Josh. All the fancy AEM ignition stuff is not necessary, especially where you are at. Stock ignition is usually healthy enough for 500+ before coils.

But the car is nice and Im sure its fun as hell.

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98' Integra LS Previously 283whp/300ft-lbs; Now 602whp/453ft-lbs, Non-Vtec E85. PB 12.7 @ 128mph

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post #23 of 105 (permalink) Old 10-10-2012, 06:51 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skatemyst View Post
awesome build man, very unique!
Thank you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dustin96LS View Post
I believe the S2K kit must have used another blower. The kit was made by Comptech and I forget who supplied the SC for the kit, obviously wasn't Procharger though.
It had to be the old comptech supercharger!

Quote:
Originally Posted by skatemyst View Post
But man this set up is so much less maintenance than a turbo set up. The self contained oil set up is so ideal. No heat from the engine oil (Which will inturn keep your oil temps down as well), PLUS an intercooler for the charge. And I believe your total charge piping length is probably a foot or so shorter than the common B series turbo set up.

:runs off to research Prochargers:

EDIT: Wow that Tech video. These things are so damn simple. I can't believe more people haven;t used these set ups.. There has to be a catch. This blows a turbo set up (sub 400 WHP) out of the water, in every way possible.
I just think everyone leaned taward the turbo scene imo.

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Originally Posted by stealthpenguin View Post
I've seen this on H-T, lots of work put into this setup. Do you have any dyno graphs?
I do ill post em up soon once i get my new dyno done., this first proto type setup made 275hp and 191 lbft @ 7 psi! at churches

ITR gsr intake cam ITr ex cam
Sk2 red pro series intake manifold
ITR block
DC 4-1 header
custom test pipe by Ed Hanson
Buddy club spec 3 catback 2.5''
Magna flow muffler w/gsr polished tip 2.5''
ATI Pro Charger
HKS black series ssq blow off valve
front mount intercooler painted black 2 1/4
rc 550 cc injectors w/ password JDM injector harness
walbro 255lb fuel pump
hondata s100

I retuned back at churches with a TDM tri y header and 3'' cat back ex.and 70mm sk2 alpha tb and new pulley good for 10-12psi and the new upgrades lost hp and tq on the dyno and lost 2-3psi of boost, last tune made 275hp @7psi, new upgrades made 266hp and still boosts 7psi with new smaller pulley,. the big hp and tq loss was i think mainly cause theres a 6mm step at the throtle inlet cause i didnt port match the pro series manifold. I really dont know what cause the psi to not rise, maybe the 3'' ex and tri y header.

I recently did a base line pull no tuning at a local dyno (car tune in s.d) to see where the motor stands with the new current upgrades but with the 3.15'' (7psi pulley) this is on a roller dyno not a dyna pack dyno like at churches, there dyno reads aprox 45-50hp more! base line pull hit 240 whp @ 6.4 psi, which would translate to roughly 295 hp on churches dyno untuned! with the new current setup. I figure with the port match and new setup it made roughly a gain of 25whp untuned. I will now be retuning the motor with the new AEM gear and a smaller s.c. pulley to achieve 10-12 psi. at dynotech motorsports.

current setup:
Bisimoto cam gears
Skunk 2 tunner 1 cams
Skunk 2 pro series manifold ported 70mm
Skunk 2 70mm Alpha throtle body with coolant bypass
Skunk 2 fuel rail
Skunk 2 vtec solinoid
Skunk 2 Alpha header
Skunk 2 mega r 2.5'' cat back
ed hanson 2.5'' test pipe
Injen 3'' cold air intake arm
AEM coil on plug conversion
AEM twin fire module
AEM EMS V2
rc 550cc injectors
ATI pro charger super charger 9-12 psi boost pulley
HKS ssq bov tucked
front mount intercooler with 2.4'' charge pipes
out law engineering thermal spacer kit


This setup shared here is almost all difrent, i changed almost all the mods so im interested on the outcome. Getting the psi to rise seems tricky, im using a smaller 2.95'' pulley and a big B20 crank pulley to try and raise it above 10psi this time. But i will not have it dynoed at churches going with a new tuner.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dustin96LS View Post
^No kidding. Except one issue.. It is a $5k kit.. Yikes!

And it basically is the charger, IC, piping, and mounting hardware for the charger (belt, pulley, etc..)
I got mine for less than $1500 used, and there way less than $5k just find a seller who sells them i seen a guy post here that had one a while back and claimed he sold them pretty cheap new.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Iheartmytegg View Post
Wow! Well based off that statement nvm �� 5k will more than get me my goals and be reliable. I am envious of your setup though. Went a different route and sometimes it pays off, and in your case it really paid off. ��

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Imo its better than any turbo kit i can ever find or put together for the price and its simplicity and ease with maintence and install makes it even more worth it. Also its street legal and comes with a carb sticker.

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Originally Posted by Iheartmytegg View Post
Unless.... I can pick up a slightly used procharger kit... ��


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just search for a used one, but there real hard to find sometimes, i came across one on honda-tech.com but the blades looked rusted so i passed on it but i would of got it for a future project just because it was going for pretty cheap.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LightningTeg View Post
I kind of agree with Josh. All the fancy AEM ignition stuff is not necessary, especially where you are at. Stock ignition is usually healthy enough for 500+ before coils.

But the car is nice and Im sure its fun as hell.
Yea of course the oem ingnition is "good enough" but i sugest you should research what the advantages a cop kit can give over the oem ign. it eliminates the dwell issues common to the factory distributor as RPM increases by providing an individual coil for each cylinder.

It is commonly known that the factory igniter on the B-Series engine is prone to failure. Further, as distributors age timing signal quality can decrease and lead to poor engine performance. AEM’s B-Series COP Conversion Kit eliminates energy losses associated with a deteriorated cap/rotor/wire assembly and includes an igniter that has been tested under the most rigorous conditions we could conceive—run at over 10,000 RPM for over 24 hours with a dwell time that was advanced almost 50% of the way past current saturation (3.2mS versus 2.2mS)—and it did not fail.

IMO the hondata s100 is outdated so instead of going with a s300 i researched the new AEM V2 ems! and it has very great reviews and has so many great features one which is traction control boost control 2 step rev limiter smooth boost per speed functions speed governor and much more. along that it alowed me to upgrade to the aem cop kit and run the new AEM fail safe boost gauge that was released not to long ago! a new gauge that will literally save your motor from blowing in the event it goes lean in any cond.

I am a firm beiever that the ems is if the one the most important parts of a engine build. All the free software to tune your car is not really safe, theres storys of free soft ware glitching and motors being destroyed, motors going lean from not having a wide band gauge for air and fuel. so for this new setup i wanted to upgrade the ignition system as part of the engine build, to many people over look there engine managment.

All the aem upgrades were baught new but not anything near retail lol i got a great deal on the cop kit i couldnt pass, i got a huge discount off the AEM v2 and my a.f gauge from aem was greatly discounted by a friend of mine who sells them whole sale.

Thanks guys for the positive comments!

Last edited by wunfstgsr; 10-10-2012 at 07:08 PM.
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post #24 of 105 (permalink) Old 10-10-2012, 11:23 PM
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Also saw this on H-T. Definitely a clean car!
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post #25 of 105 (permalink) Old 10-10-2012, 11:43 PM
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Looks great! I was wondering when I would see someone with one of the red SK2 IM's. I ended up getting the black one
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post #26 of 105 (permalink) Old 10-11-2012, 05:25 AM Thread Starter
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Looks great! I was wondering when I would see someone with one of the red SK2 IM's. I ended up getting the black one
when i got mine they were only available for the Type r/b16 head the black ones were made only for the gsr.
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post #27 of 105 (permalink) Old 10-11-2012, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by wunfstgsr View Post

Yea of course the oem ingnition is "good enough" but i sugest you should research what the advantages a cop kit can give over the oem ign. it eliminates the dwell issues common to the factory distributor as RPM increases by providing an individual coil for each cylinder.


It is commonly known that the factory igniter on the B-Series engine is prone to failure. Further, as distributors age timing signal quality can decrease and lead to poor engine performance. AEM’s B-Series COP Conversion Kit eliminates energy losses associated with a deteriorated cap/rotor/wire assembly and includes an igniter that has been tested under the most rigorous conditions we could conceive—run at over 10,000 RPM for over 24 hours with a dwell time that was advanced almost 50% of the way past current saturation (3.2mS versus 2.2mS)—and it did not fail.
Yes I know what coils do lol. I also know factory ignition isnt the "best" but certainly not bad enough to spend the $$$ on a stand alone ignition system. If I did upgrade my ignition, I would just a coil bypass and run an external coil anyway.

Quote:
IMO the hondata s100 is outdated so instead of going with a s300 i researched the new AEM V2 ems! and it has very great reviews and has so many great features one which is traction control boost control 2 step rev limiter smooth boost per speed functions speed governor and much more. along that it alowed me to upgrade to the aem cop kit and run the new AEM fail safe boost gauge that was released not to long ago! a new gauge that will literally save your motor from blowing in the event it goes lean in any cond.

I am a firm beiever that the ems is if the one the most important parts of a engine build. All the free software to tune your car is not really safe, theres storys of free soft ware glitching and motors being destroyed, motors going lean from not having a wide band gauge for air and fuel. so for this new setup i wanted to upgrade the ignition system as part of the engine build, to many people over look there engine managment.
Other then Crome, which works fine if you know how to get around its bugs, I dont know what other free ones their are. Hondata, Ectune, and Neptune are all great programs that have all of those features you just mentioned through the factory computer, and have a much more friendly user interface.

Im only "arguing" because you've got the parts to support 1000whp in the ignition and EMS, but your on a stock bottom end.
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post #28 of 105 (permalink) Old 10-11-2012, 11:13 AM
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"New Type r head from dealer
New ITR block from dealer
New ITR trans from dealer"

"My last gsr block cost me around $2,000 for a complete rebuild pistons bearings oil water pump gaskets ect. I got my new block for $2,500 complete."

Bought from dealership? The hell? I find this VERY hard to believe. An ITR crank alone (from acuraoemparts, cheaper than dealership) is a grand. I was talking to a dealership out of curiosity awhile ago about buying a new engine and they said it would run up and over 10 grand. Not hating or anything I'm just flustered at the price of this, I feel like if new engines were that cheap Machine shops wouldn't even exist. My rebuild using existing parts and replacing some others is running around $2000 (and trying to stay conservative). To have a new engine for $2500 is mind boggling.
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