BuiltNoTboughTdc2 - 2019 HondaFest - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
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post #1 of 221 (permalink) Old 11-10-2011, 04:58 PM Thread Starter
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BuiltNoTboughTdc2 - 2019 HondaFest

1995 Acura Integra GS-R

__________________________________________________ _

Spent to date (as of 3/30/2019) $25,000.00. This includes car's purchase price of $3,600. I performed all the work except dyno, LSD install, and repaint.





1/4mile progress:


2005 16.5 sec @80mph. GSR head w/oem intake manifold, stock LS tranny, B18B1 short block w/300,000 miles. Redline set at 7,500. H&R suspension springs. Everything else stock).

2010 15.8 @85 (60'-2.300) Rebuilt engine after spinning a rod bearing. Installed SRP pistons, Eagle rods, ARP head studs. Still NA, set rev. limiter at 8,400.

2011 13.6 @115 (60' - 2.285) Rebuilt engine after accidental loss of oil. Installed a no-brand Ebay turbo. Car made 334whp/260tq. on dyno. Still using LS tranny.

2012 12.8 @118 (60' - 2.108) Installed Precision turbo after Ebay turbo failed. Car made 374whp/274tq. Began using 195/60/R14 drag radials.

2013 12.6 @119 (60' - 2.136) Installed GSR tranny with M-Factory LSD.

2014 12.3 @120 (60' - 1.892) Rebuilt engine after OEM sleeve has cracked. Did not determine the cause. Installed JE pistons and double valve springs. Car made 409whp/280tq. Began using 2-step launch control set at 7,000 rpm, and 23"x8" M&H slicks.

2015 11.9@121mph (60'-1.858) Rebuilt engine after cracking OEM sleeve for the 2nd time. Could not determine the cause. Installed Wiseco pistons. Car made 401whp/304tq. Installed 3" exhaust, Koni Yellows and Ground Control suspension. Installed DOM roll cage.

2018 60' - 1.785 (Rebuilt engine after cracking OEM sleeve for the 3rd time. Finally found the culprit - a fuel pump switch. Installed Victor X intake manifold. Car made 404whp/289tq. Lowered slick pressure from 12psi to 10psi).

2019 60' - 1.729 (Replaced rear control arms and installed rear subframe brace. Lowered slick pressure from 10psi to 8psi).
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My Build
404whp
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Best 60' - 1.729

Last edited by Built_not_bought; 04-17-2019 at 05:27 PM.
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post #2 of 221 (permalink) Old 11-10-2011, 05:34 PM
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Nice 1/4 mile. Do you have a modification list or build thread?
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post #3 of 221 (permalink) Old 11-10-2011, 05:55 PM Thread Starter
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I plan to make this my build thread.

My previous GSR (1998) ran 15.555 @89mph completely stock. However, this GSR (1995) was a whole second slower 16.5 secs. Conclusion: LS/Vtec matched with LS tranny is much slower than GSR long block matched with GSR trany.

I was very disappointed with my findings and decides to do something about it. However, money was an issue and I kept postponing my plans for a long time. It took a spun rod bearing to get things moving forward. Unable to afford a mechanic I decided to do engine overhaul myself. I already had experience changing oil and spare tire.. A co worker promised to help with new engine assembly. But the engine had to come-out. And there was no one to help. I made a mistake by not removing the harmonic balancer. Since the trany was going to stay, the engine got stock after I disconnected it. The pressure plate wasn't able to clear the tranny housing. I spent all night trying to figure it out. First I tried to match the engine back to the tranny. But since I the chains weren't connected properly, the engine hung sideways, making it impossible. I tried to level it by using a piece of pipe that I inserted through upper radiator water neck. Since the water neck is cast aluminum it cracked in no time. Since the engine hoist was in the way of my garage door, I couldn't go to sleep as my tools would get stolen. That was my first night in the garage. The next day my co-worker came to help. He turned the engine so that harmonic balancer cleared the corner near driver headlight. He than took it apart, told me what parts I needed and once the parts were in, he assembled it while I watched.


Unfortunately it did not last. During an oil change, I noticed a dent on the side wall of the new oil filter. Not checking the car for leaks following the oil change, I drove the car to a near by store. In 10 minutes I lost all the oil. The engine spun a rod bearing. I was back to square one.
Co-worker was disappointed that he wasted his time. But he didn't. He taught me how to rebuild an engine. And that is priceless. I was now able to remove, rebuild and install the engine all on my own. There were a few issues during the rebuild process however:
First, I accidently installed a B16 crank instead of B18 (courtesy of a dishonest seller). Since I realized it after the assembly, I ruined a new head gasket.
Since a good used B18 crank was hard to find so I decided to machine my original crank. This was my second mistake. After installing a freshly turned crank, I was told that it won't last since it was no longer hardened. That cost me another head gasket. Crap, I needed a good LS crank, but couldn't find one.

Read on to find-out what happened next…

Last edited by Built_not_bought; 03-30-2018 at 11:53 AM.
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post #4 of 221 (permalink) Old 11-11-2011, 01:47 AM
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nice job. have fun.
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post #5 of 221 (permalink) Old 11-11-2011, 03:02 AM
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Nice built man! "15.555 @ 89mph..." on a stock GSR is pretty awesome! My best on my stock ITR is 15.01 so far. I need to improve my driving skills... Hey you know where I can find a wiring diagram for the LS/VTEC distributor wiring by chance?
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post #6 of 221 (permalink) Old 11-11-2011, 10:21 AM Thread Starter
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Nutbuster try this link:


Phearable.net - Electronic Fuel Injection Tuning Solutions - Hondata, Neptune, Crome, Uberdata, Ectune, AEM, Honda Tuning, Widebands, Fuel Pumps, Intercoolers, Turbos, LS/VTEC, ECU Chipping, Chipped Ecus, P28


So you own a Type R? Nice. Here is a story for you. I consider myself a proud "driver" of a real Type R (not an owner, just a driver).

I got a chance to test drive a 2000 Integra Type R a few years ago. Only once though. It was being sold as a theft recovery at a local junk yard for $10K. I was considering buying it and wanted to take it for a spin. Only problem, the seats were still missing. The seller gave me a seat off another Integra and I put it inside the car, but didn't bolt it down. As soon as I drove-out, I floored it!! Suddenly, the driver's seat came from under me. My left hand was on a steering wheel, while my right was on a stick shift. My right foot was on the gas pedal, while my left was on a clutch pedal. Can you picture it? Basically my left hand jerked the steering wheel to the lefts, and the car crossed the center lane. In order to regain control I needed foot support. This is all happening in a split of a second. So by inertia, I floored both pedals as my body was falling towards the back of the car. Since the right hand was on a shifter (in 1st gear), I shifted into 2nd gear (unintentionally!). Just before I drove off a cliff into a small river on the left side (the car was still turning), I was able to let go off the shifter and grabbed the steering wheel avoiding imminent death. Next, I switch my right foot (from the gas pedal to the brake pedal) and stopped the car. So, my first Integra Type R test drive was least to say "unforgettable".

Last edited by Built_not_bought; 03-30-2018 at 12:11 PM.
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post #7 of 221 (permalink) Old 11-14-2011, 02:50 PM Thread Starter
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After I found a good used B18 crank and completed the 2nd rebuild, or should I call this one my 1st since I was doing it all on my own this time? The I drove Integra straight to the race track as I couldn't wait to see what it would do with the freshly installed higher compression pistons. Just as expected it ran faster and I was able to break into 15s. My best run was 15.8 seconds at 85 mph.



Almost as fast as a stock GSR.

Last edited by Built_not_bought; 03-24-2017 at 11:11 PM.
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post #8 of 221 (permalink) Old 11-14-2011, 08:48 PM Thread Starter
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The damage

Here is a picture showing the engine out of a car during the second rebuild. Notice how lucky I was. It turned out that the bolt that attaches hook to the hoist arm didn't have a nut on it. So it cleared the first of the two holes and as a result was at 45 degree angle. So the engine, while in the air, was literally held by a miracle. If the hook slid through who knows what would have happened. I could have been seriously injured. A good reminder for all of us to check the equipment before use.
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Last edited by Built_not_bought; 03-24-2017 at 01:56 PM.
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post #9 of 221 (permalink) Old 11-15-2011, 12:59 PM Thread Starter
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Engine parts list (as of 2011):

1. Rod bearings
2. Main bearings
3. Thrust washers
4. Forged, low compression pistons w/rings (for FI applications)
5. Eagle rods (for FI applications)
6. Oil pan gasket
7. Rear main seal
8. Oil pump seal
9. Oil pick-up tube gasket
10. OEM Honda head gasket (or Cometic)
11. Valve cover gasket set
12. Timing belt w/tensioner and spring
13. Water pump
14. Exhaust manifold gasket
15. Intake manifold gasket
16. ARP head studs (for FI applications)
17. Clutch and pressure plate suitable for the desired torque.
18. Thermostat
19. Vacuum and coolant hoses
20. Coolant
21. Synthetic oil (recommended) w/oil filter
22. Power steering and alternator belts
23. Fuel filter (optional)
24. Distributor o-ring, cap and rotor (optional)
25. Magnetic oil drain plug (recommended)
26. Bore and hone the block
27. Spark plugs w/wires (optional)
28. Pilot bearing
29. Throw-out bearing
30. Cam cap
31. Cam seals

Tools required for the job:

1. Torque wrenches (1/4” for 120 in/lb – 960 in/lb; 3/8” for 10 ft/lb-80 ft/lb; ” for 80 ft/lb-200 ft/lb applications) Last one was only needed for harmonic balancer bolt.
2. Engine hoist (a.k.a. cherry picker)
3. Universal ring compressor suitable for 81mm-85mm bore (depending on your application)
4. Set of metric 3/8” sockets 6-point- short and long (8mm – 19mm)
5. Tube of liquid gasket
6. Engine assembly lube
7. Clean rags
8. Break cleaner
9. Gasket scraper (something to do the job, but not scratch aluminum surface)
10. 3/8” socket extensions (6” long and 2” long)
11. 3/8” or 5/16” 12-point sockets (depending on the ARP rod bolts that come with your Eagle rods)
12. 5/8” 12-point socket for the flywheel bolts
13. Clutch positioner
14. 0-4" Micrometers, telescoping and filler gauges (unless blueprinting is done by the machine shop)
15. 2 containers to drain oil and coolant
16. 2 jack stands
17. 2 hydrolic jacks (if removed engine w/o trany, for engine to trany leveling/matching purpose)
18. Can of hytack head gasket spray
19. Tube of ARP moly lube or ARP ultra torque
20. Tube of Antiseeze
21. Pliers
22. Flat screw driver
23. Phillips screw driver
24. 3/8” wrench with ” and ” adapters
25. Oil filter tool likely won’t be required as you should be able to have a good hand grip on it once the engine is out.
26. ” 02 sensor socket likely won’t be needed if threads are not seized-up.
27. Timing gun
28. 2’ or 3’ long chain
29. Honda crank pulley holder, can use universal pulley holder (rubber or chain, if chain wrap old accessory belt around pulley before squeezing)
30. Set of green plastiguages (rod and main bearing oil clearance check)
31. Set of filler gauges (piston ring end gap check; crankshaft end play check; cam adjustment)
32. Tube of threadlock
33. Plumbers tape (if installing extra set of gauges, or oil sandwich adapter)
34. Set of cylinder bore gauges (81mm-85mm for B18 engines, depending on the bore size)
35. Wash block, head and internals including oil pump, oil pick up tube screen, vtec solenoid before assembly, especially if engine has failed.
36. Zip lock bags (optional)
37. Numbering stickers (optional)
38. Cylinder flex hone suitable for 81mm-85mm bore (grit is determined by the piston ring manufacturer)
39. True edge






If you plan to install Ebay oil pump, I suggest you replace all studs (pump to oil pan) before they break. Not an easy fix:



After 2 studs broke, the oil pan gasket started leaking. I was able to extract the first stud, but my easy-out tool snapped inside the pump during 2nd extraction (as shown in above picture). There was no way to remove it other than drilling it out (from above!). This was a blind hole. But since it was a corner stud (under power steering pump), I approximated the location of the hole below, and began drilling. As soon as the drill bit touched the easy out, it snapped. This complicated things event further. Now I had hardened metal on both sides, flush with the surface. I took a steel rod and began taping from above hoping the pump casing will not crack. And it worked. Everything came out the bottom: first the easy-out, then the stud, then the drill bit. Luckily I didn't have to replace the oil pump. Finished the job by cutting new (larger diameter) thread, and used larger stud.


Please note, my Ebay oil pump (brand new) contained metal particles inside. I discovered it by submerging lower part of the pump in oil and by priming it by hand. I guess it doesn't get cleaned following the manufacturing process. Shortly after installation I began having issue with low oil pressure during idling. All bearing clearances were within Honda specs., so there shouldn't have been any problems. This was the last time I used a no-brand oil pump.

Last edited by Built_not_bought; 03-30-2018 at 11:10 AM.
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post #10 of 221 (permalink) Old 11-15-2011, 08:12 PM Thread Starter
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Turbo install:


I wanted to have the compressor housing on the passenger side so that I could retain the AC. But the exhaust manifold that I purchased wouldn't allow me to do it:




As you can see from the picture, I had a major clearance issue. The intake side of the turbo was coming in contact with the short block near the "B18B1" engine identification area.

I wasn't going to give-up on a luxury AC feature so easily. So I created an adapter that allowed me to offset the turbo. The middle section of the adapter was made out of two 1/8" thick steel plates that were cut to size then bent to U-shape and welded together. Then the flanges were welded on both ends of it. Here it is:



Picture below shows the adapter installed on a spare engine:



I used this spare engine to design the adapter. But as you can see, it had no tranny connected to it. As a result, I didn't account for the slave cylinder. The adapter lowered position of the turbo, by design, and because of it, the compressor side was coming in contact with the slave cylinder. So it didn't work. What a waste. The AC had to go:



When I was making the adapter, a small piece of metal got stock in my eye. Since I paid $250 for ER visit. Doctor used a medical drill to drill it out. Not joke. I now wear safety glasses when I grind.

Last edited by Built_not_bought; 03-23-2017 at 07:26 PM.
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post #11 of 221 (permalink) Old 11-28-2011, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
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I needed lots of welding done for the turbo set-up. Local welders were charging $60 per hour and I couldn't afford it. So I hired a guys who I met a guy on the bus on the way to work. He promised to make me downpipe, exhaust and charge pipes in only 3 days for a total cost of $350 (cash upfront).


I agreed. Here is what I got back after waiting for 5 weeks:










Every weld bid leaks. I filled pipes with water to test it and every pipe that he welded produced a "shower head" effect.

Last edited by Built_not_bought; 03-23-2017 at 07:31 PM.
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post #12 of 221 (permalink) Old 11-28-2011, 07:12 PM
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wow that was quite a read. you've come quite a ways with your Integra, I look forward to seeing more updates!
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1995 Integra SE- RIP
1995 Integra GSR- RIP
1998 SSBP GSR Log
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post #13 of 221 (permalink) Old 11-28-2011, 07:51 PM Thread Starter
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There are only a few people that I know of, who thought this project was worth the time and money. Having such low rate of approval from the community was tough. I even learned to keep the progress to myself, as no feedback was better than criticism. Thats why I appreciate your support and glad that you find it interesting!

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post #14 of 221 (permalink) Old 11-28-2011, 07:54 PM
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The welds on that exhaust look terrible. I hate to think what the inside of the pipe looks like... Oh well, as long as it holds!
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