BuiltNoTboughTdc2 1/8-mile vs. Hellcat
1995 Acura Integra GS-R
Spent to date (as of 3/30/2019) $25,000.00. This includes car's purchase price of $3,600. I performed all the work except dyno, LSD install, and repaint.
2005 16.5 sec @80mph. GSR head w/oem intake manifold, stock LS tranny, B18B1 short block w/300,000 miles. Redline set at 7,500. H&R suspension springs. Everything else stock).
2010 15.8 @85 (60'-2.300) Rebuilt engine after spinning a rod bearing. Installed SRP pistons, Eagle rods, ARP head studs. Still NA, set rev. limiter at 8,400.
2011 13.6 @115 (60' - 2.285) Rebuilt engine after accidental loss of oil. Installed a no-brand Ebay turbo. Car made 334whp/260tq. on dyno. Still using LS tranny.
2012 12.8 @118 (60' - 2.108) Installed Precision turbo after Ebay turbo failed. Car made 374whp/274tq. Began using 195/60/R14 drag radials.
2013 12.6 @119 (60' - 2.136) Installed GSR tranny with M-Factory LSD.
2014 12.3 @120 (60' - 1.892) Rebuilt engine after OEM sleeve has cracked. Did not determine the cause. Installed JE pistons and double valve springs. Car made 409whp/280tq. Began using 2-step launch control set at 7,000 rpm, and 23"x8" M&H slicks.
2015 11.9@121mph (60'-1.858) Rebuilt engine after cracking OEM sleeve for the 2nd time. Could not determine the cause. Installed Wiseco pistons. Car made 401whp/304tq. Installed 3" exhaust, Koni Yellows and Ground Control suspension. Installed DOM roll cage.
2018 60' - 1.785 (Rebuilt engine after cracking OEM sleeve for the 3rd time. Finally found the culprit - a fuel pump switch. Installed Victor X intake manifold. Car made 404whp/289tq. Lowered slick pressure from 12psi to 10psi).
2019 60' - 1.729 (Replaced rear control arms and installed rear subframe brace. Lowered slick pressure from 10psi to 8psi).
Nice 1/4 mile. Do you have a modification list or build thread?
Actually, this will be my build thread:
My previous GSR ran 15.555 @89mph bone stock. This one, however, was a whole second slower at 16.5 secs. Both are GSR. What's different. This one has LS tranny and LS short block. Everything else is GSR (stock). Highly disappointing. Then I spun a rod bearing. Unable to afford a mechanic I decided to perform the engine overhaul myself. I already had experience changing oil and tires. Pretty brave, huh? Well, not really, I a co-worker had convinced me. He promised to help along the way, if I ran into a problem. I did manage to remove the engine myself, though. Almost...
The engine actually got stock in the engine bay. I didn't realize that if was to keep the transmission in the car and was only removing the long block, I was suppose to remove the harmonic balancer. Otherwise the pressure plate wouldn't clear the transmission housing. So as soon as I removed transmission bolts and pulled the engine away from the transmission it came out unleveled. The chains weren't hooked up to the appropriate connection points on the engine. So it just hung there, not going anywhere. I tried clocking it clockwise and counterclockwise hoping that the main pulley would somehow clear the frame. Nothing worked. Then spent the next few hours trying to match it back to the trany in order to be able to remove the harmonic balancer. Since the engine hung unleveled all my efforts were useless. At some point I event tried to level it by inserting a metal rod inside the upper radiator hose housing on the cylinder head. Well, the housing is made of cast aluminum, so I ended-up braking it. To make matters worse, I couldn't event leave everything as is. It was getting very late, but since the engine hoist was in the way of my garage door, I couldn't close it for the night. Worried that my tools may get stolen I spent the rest of the night sleeping in the car with one eye open.
The next day my co-worker came. He was way more agressive with it. He clocked the engine approximately 45 degrees so that the harmonic balancer had enough clearance in the driver headlight area. Something I would never be able to do on my own. It looked pretty violent to me. I thought something was going to give. He than took it with him, disassembled and told me what parts I needed to purchase. Then he invited me over to put the new parts in. I went with forged pistons and rods, since I had bigger plans for it. It was fun to watch. I actually learned alot.
Unfortunately following the assembly the engine lasted only about 750 miles. It spun another rod bearing. All because of my silly mistake. During the very first oil change, I accidently dropped the new oil filter on the floor so it got dented. Not thinking much of it I simply installed it. Then after I noticed few oil drips on the garage floor I simply tightened it more. What I didn't realize was I actually crushed must have made it worse. Perhaps damaged the oil ring on it. W/o checking my work I went for a ride. In about 15 minutes I came back only to notice a trace of oil in the driveway. These were no drips. This was a full blown oil leak. In those 15 minutes I actually lost at least 2.5 quarts of oil. By the time I realized it it was already too late. I crossed my fingers, replaced the oil filter, added oil, and tried to forget about it. But the engine knock was inevitable. A "man with a hammer" came knocking after about 100 miles. My co-worker was pretty disappointed after I told him. I was heart broken. He did not offer his help this time. I was on my own.
This time I remembered to remove the harmonic balancer before disconnecting the tranny. I went ahead and purchased another good crank, new oil pump, connecting rod and the bearings. Everything turned-out perfect. Except one little thing: the guy who sold me the crank lied. He sold me a B16 crank, not a B18B1. The new engine was fully assembled and in the car when I realized what happened. It was by pure accident. I was reviewing the pictures that I took during the assembly. There was one that showed pistons at the TDC. Except they weren't quite at the TDC. I'd say maybe a 1/4" below it. Unsure if the pistons were suppose to be at the true TDC, or the crank didn't complete the full rotation I decided to insert a rod through the spark plug hole and measure the stroke. The rod that I used was way too short, so it almost fell inside the chamber as I was turning the engine by hand. Luckily I noticed before it happened. A longer rod had confirmed my worst fears. The crankshaft matched stroke of a B16 block. I needed to take it out and apart, find another crank and get a new head gasket. Unable to find a good, used B18B1/A1 or B20 crank, I decided to have my old B18 crank machined. After installing everything back. I was due for another surprise. One of the guys told me that Honda cranks are not the same as USDM cranks and when you machine it it removes the hardening. He said that it won't last and that I'm better off removing it now before I spin another bearing. Uh, does that mean I needed to take the engine out and apart again? Then to get another crank, new head gasket? Afraid so. When was this going to end??
Read on to find-out...
nice job. have fun. :vtec228:
Nice built man! "15.555 @ 89mph..." on a stock GSR is pretty awesome! My best on my stock ITR is 15.01 so far. I need to improve my driving skills... Hey you know where I can find a wiring diagram for the LS/VTEC distributor wiring by chance?
Nutbuster try this link:
Phearable.net - Electronic Fuel Injection Tuning Solutions - Hondata, Neptune, Crome, Uberdata, Ectune, AEM, Honda Tuning, Widebands, Fuel Pumps, Intercoolers, Turbos, LS/VTEC, ECU Chipping, Chipped Ecus, P28
You own a Type R? Very cool. I once drove a Type R. It was being sold as a theft recovery at a local junk yard for $10K. I was then considering buying it and took it for a test drive. It was missing the seats. The seller gave me a seat off another Integra. I put it inside the car, but didn't bolt it down (!). Didn't think it was going to go anywhere since my weight would keep it down. But as soon as I stepped on the gas, it shifted back from underneath me. My left hand was on a steering wheel (right hand was holding the shifter), so when the seat moved back I accidentally pulled on the steering and all of the sudden found myself crossing the yellow double lanes, heading straight into a river. Losing my balance I accidentally pressed on a gas pedal trying to stay up and keep the visual on a road. Luckily there was no incoming traffic as I had absolutely no way to safely control the car at this point. Can you picture this whole thing? I was desperately trying to not go down a 15-foot drop just off the shoulder. Why didn't I go down? Well when the seat shifted I was in 1st gear, so by inertia I ripped it out of the gear - lucky! I somehow managed to regain the control of the car and stop it safely. I think that's how I got my first gray hair. Advice? Don't drive a car with a lose driver seat.
I did manage to find a good used B18 crank and was able to complete engine assembly and installation. Just as I expected, new pistons raised the compression so the car ran 15.8 seconds which was more than half a second faster than its previous time.
Car ran good. I was now ready to begin installing all the turbo components
Blast from the past. Found a picture that I took as soon as I removed the engine after I realized that I accidentally installed a B16 crank in it. Notice that the bolt that holds the hook on the hoist arm is missing a nut and as a result almost came all the way out. The bolt was right up against the arm at ackward 45-degree angle. I guess the load was preventing the bolt from backing out event further and opening the gap to allow the hook to slid through. If that happened while I had my feet were underneath it, it would be very, very bad day for me. So, learn from my mistake and pay attention.
For the folks who plan to perform engine overhaul, here is the list of the parts you will need:
Forged, low compression pistons w/rings (for FI applications)
Eagle rods (for FI applications)
Oil pan gasket
Rear main seal
Oil pump seal
Oil pick-up tube gasket
OEM Honda head gasket (or Cometic)
Valve cover gasket set
Timing belt w/tensioner and spring
Exhaust manifold gasket
Intake manifold gasket
ARP head studs (for FI applications)
Clutch and pressure plate suitable for the desired torque.
Vacuum and coolant hoses
Synthetic oil (recommended) w/oil filter
Power steering and alternator belts
Fuel filter (optional)
Distributor o-ring, cap and rotor (optional)
Magnetic oil drain plug (recommended)
Bore and hone the block
Spark plugs w/wires (optional)
.... and the tools required to complete the job:
wrenches (1/4” for 120 in/lb – 960 in/lb; 3/8” for 10 ft/lb-80 ft/lb; ½” for 80 ft/lb-200 ft/lb applications) Last one was only needed for harmonic balancer bolt.
Engine hoist (a.k.a. cherry picker)
Universal ring compressor suitable for 81mm-85mm bore (depending on your application)
Set of metric 3/8” sockets 6-point- short and long (8mm – 19mm)
Tube of liquid gasket
Engine assembly lube
Gasket scraper (something to do the job, but not scratch aluminum surface)
3/8” socket extensions (6” long and 2” long)
3/8” or 5/16” 12-point sockets (depending on the ARP rod bolts that come with your Eagle rods)
5/8” 12-point socket for the flywheel bolts
Micrometers, telescoping and filler gauges (unless blueprinting is done by the machine shop)
2 containers to drain oil and coolant
2 jack stands
2 hydrolic jacks (if removed engine w/o trany, for engine to trany leveling/matching purpose)
Can of hytack head gasket spray
Tube of ARP moly lube or ARP ultra torque
Tube of Antiseeze
Flat screw driver
Phillips screw driver
3/8” wrench with ¼” and ½” adapters
Oil filter tool likely won’t be required as you should be able to have a good hand grip on it once the engine is out.
½” 02 sensor socket likely won’t be needed if threads are not seized-up.
2’ or 3’ long chain
Honda crank pulley holder, can use universal pulley holder (rubber or chain, if chain wrap old accessory belt around pulley before squeezing)
Set of green plastiguages (rod and main bearing oil clearance check)
Set of filler gauges (piston ring end gap check; crankshaft end play check; cam adjustment)
Tube of threadlock
Plumbers tape (if installing extra set of gauges, or oil sandwich adapter)
Set of cylinder bore gauges (81mm-85mm for B18 engines, depending on the bore size)
Wash block, head and internals including oil pump, oil pick up tube screen, vtec solenoid before assembly, especially if engine has failed.
Zip lock bags (optional)
Numbering tags (optional)
Cylinder flex hone suitable for 81mm-85mm bore (grit is determined by the piston ring manufacturer)
BTW, if you plan to install an Ebay oil pump, I suggest to replace all the studs on it first, before they break. Because the will:
After 2 studs broke on my Ebay oil pump, the oil pan gasket began leaking. I was able to extract the first stud, but while removing the second, the easy-out tool snapped inside the hole (see the picture). There was no way to remove it other than drilling it out from above which was only possible because this was a corner stud (right below the power steering pump). What made this difficult was the fact that this was a blind hole. The top surface was not horizontal, but angled, so I couln't tell exactly where I suppose to begin drilling. After I began drilling and the drill bit has reached the top of the broken easy-out, it snapped. Now I had hardened materials trapped inside on both sides. What now? Well, I could leave it as is and let the oil pan continue leaking. Or I would have to replace the oil pump. Second option was more reasonable. But if that was the route I was going to take, then I no longer was worrying about this pump. So I took a steel rod, inserted it into the hole from above and have it a real good blow with a mallet. Two results should have came out from this approach. I would either crack the aluminum pump housing or whatever was trapped inside the hole would come-out. And it did. So, I re-tapped the thread, used a larger stud and the job was complete.
My final recommendation is to avoid purchasing Ebay (no brand) pump all together. I was experiencing low oil pressure during idle. Then after I purchased second Ebay oil pump, I primed it first to see what would come out of it. To my surprise I saw multiple metal shavings. Would these get trapped in the oil filter? Probably. But as for me, I switched to an OEM Honda oil pump. Expensive? Yes, but had absolutely zero issues with the oil pressure ever since.
I wanted to preserve the AC, but in order to do that the compressor housing suppose to be on the passenger side. However, since I was using a cast iron "Blox" type exhaust manifold, the turbo was sitting to close to the block and therefore the compressor housing wouldn't fit:
As you can see from the picture, I had a clearance issue near the "B18B1" engine identification tag.
At first I shaved some of the material off, but that didn't help. So I went a more sophisticated route. Working close to a metal shop, I ended-up making a design for an adapter that would allow me to clock the turbo counterclockwise and effectively clear the block. Not an easy task, but it turned-out good.
The middle section was made out of two 1/8" thick steel plates pre-cut to shape, then bent and welded together. Then two flanges were welded on both ends:
Picture below shows the adapter installed on a spare engine that's been sitting in my garage and used for a mock-up:
What I didn't realize is that the slave cylinder would get in a way of the turbo once I install it in the car. So, this was a waste of effort, the AC had to go:
BTW, while working on the adapter, a small piece of metal struck my eye. ER visit was $200. The doc used a medical drill to remove it. I was so freaked-out. Now I wear safety glasses when grinding, hope you do too.
I exhausted my "cost free" welding services with that adapter. And now needed to come-up with alot of money to make the downpipe, dumptube etc. Unable to afford $60/hour certified welder, I hired a guy that I recently met on a way to work. He said he knew how to weld and could do the work for $350 if I supply the materials. Here is what he gave me back as a final product:
wow that was quite a read. you've come quite a ways with your Integra, I look forward to seeing more updates!
There are only a few people that I know of, who thought this project was worth the time and money. Having such low rate of approval from the community was tough. I even learned to keep the progress to myself, as no feedback was better than criticism. Thats why I appreciate your support and glad that you find it interesting!
The welds on that exhaust look terrible. I hate to think what the inside of the pipe looks like... Oh well, as long as it holds!
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