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post #1 of 45 (permalink) Old 02-27-2011, 12:02 PM Thread Starter
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I believe I'm almost at the end of my research phase and ready to start spending some hard earned cash for boost enjoyment.

Anyways, boosting on a budget is harder than I thought. I keep reading folks saying they've done a complete build (tunning and all) with a budget at or less than $4K but I just don't see it. So far I saw a "kit" for $1650 but that is not plug and play obviously. I've spent the rest of the weekend pricing what I think I'll need to have a COMPLETE (ready to be driven) boost project and so far I am already under $5K (shipping not even added yet).

Here are my parts list with estimated market prices. Please feel free to comment and share your knowledge especially if you have some parts I need and have a good deal for me

TURBO KIT $1650 *
RADIATOR & FAN $150 (Half Core)
FUEL PUMP $150 (Walbro 255)
MOROSO Oil Pan $140
EMS $500 (Hondata S300 or AEM)
OBD2-OBD1 $100 (wiring)
PLX, Prosport, or GLO Shift GUAGES $500 (Boost, Oil Pressure & Temp, A/F or EGT)
QUAD POD $75
EXHAUST $600 (Skunk2 or Tanabe)
CLUTCH Stege 2/3 $350
OIL COOLER $200
THICKER HG $100
ARP STUDS $100
TUNNING $500 (hopefully with DYNO)

(RED = WTB / In search of)
(GREEN = Bought / Ordered)

BTW, my goal is 250-300WHP reliable DD on my stock internal B18C5. Also, re-sleeving is really not a viable option for us that live outside the US so even if I wanted to I cannot re-sleeve my block at the moment

* Turbo Kit consist of:
Quote:
AFI ramhorn manifold
garrett t3/t4 .60 trim .63a/r
tial 46mm wastegate 8lb spring
new hks bov brand new in box
3inch downpipe (2 o2 bungs)
dumptube
2-1/2 intercooler piping
intercooler
couplers and clamps
oil feed line
550 rc injectors still like new


Last edited by nutbuster123; 03-19-2011 at 12:21 PM.
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post #2 of 45 (permalink) Old 02-27-2011, 12:42 PM
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there are so many articles on here about builds... just read, and check things off as you see fit.

-b
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post #3 of 45 (permalink) Old 02-27-2011, 12:59 PM
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clutch should be done before tuning, your oem clutch will slip if you are going to make 300hp... imo, just get everything done then tune.

[b]- WTB G2 hood cable, G3 billet ps, alt, & ac pulley - My running log - My FS thread: NGK, Hub ring, G2 Neuspeed 4pts, etc.
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post #4 of 45 (permalink) Old 02-27-2011, 01:02 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by codenamezero on Feb/27/11
clutch should be done before tuning, your oem clutch will slip if you are going to make 300hp... imo, just get everything done then tune.
Good to know. I will definately do that. Thanks!
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post #5 of 45 (permalink) Old 02-27-2011, 01:12 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UrbanB on Feb/27/11
there are so many articles on here about builds... just read, and check things off as you see fit.


I did and will continue to keep reading them until I 100% understand them. For example Danny's Begginers one Stop Turbo FAQ when I first started reading it I probably comprehended 25% of it. Today I'm probably 90%

Also, with the help of all these T-I articles I was able to finally understand enough to come up with a list of parts I beleive I need. A few months ago I couldn't tell you what a ramhorn is
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post #6 of 45 (permalink) Old 02-28-2011, 10:07 AM
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The prices listed seem rather high, are you including shop labour for the installs? 500$ USD for a clutch is overkill if not. Also while I'm all for the Hondata S300, keep in mind that there are cheaper alternatives that can get you there. A nice thing about the hondata though is that it makes tuning much faster and can shave off time on the dyno, and save some money through that means. Exhaust also seems very high, even with labour. I think you can save money in a lot of areas. Also, look around for used parts.

For gauges, prosports work great, I use them. Boost and oil temp should be good enough, though A/F cant hurt. Going wideband really isnt needed here, so long as you get a good tune you are fine.
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post #7 of 45 (permalink) Old 02-28-2011, 11:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nutbuster123 on Feb/27/11
I believe I'm almost at the end of my research phase and ready to start spending some hard earned cash for boost enjoyment.

Anyways, boosting on a budget is harder than I thought. I keep reading folks saying they've done a complete build (tunning and all) with a budget at or less than $4K but I just don't see it. So far I saw a "kit" for $1650 but that is not plug and play obviously. I've spent the rest of the weekend pricing what I think I'll need to have a COMPLETE (ready to be driven) boost project and so far I am already under $5K (shipping not even added yet).

Here are my parts list with estimated market prices. Please feel free to comment and share your knowledge especially if you have some parts I need and have a good deal for me

TURBO KIT $1650 *
RADIATOR $150 (Half Core)
FUEL PUMP $150 (Walbro 255) walbros are not this much, they are $100 with the install kit and costs barely anything to ship
OBD2-OBD1 $100 (wiring)
EMS $500 (Hondata S300 or AEM) you can save $500 by switching to crome. I dont see why you need S300 if youre trying to save money. While crome may not have all the features, its more than fine for your goals and to get you by until you can purchase S300 without having budget constraints
Prosport or GLO Shift GUAGES $300 (Boost, Oil Pressure & Temp, A/F or EGT)
QUAD POD $75
TUNNING $500 (hopefully with DYNO)
EXHAUST $600 (Skunk2 or Tanabe)expensive!, go with kteller 3 inch with your choice of a muffler. The piping is $330 and a muffler like a vibrant or ebay one is like $100
CLUTCH $500 Competition stage 4 -- $350 -- all you will need
OIL COOLER $200 (could be done after tunning) oil cooler setup is not needed unless youre road racing. Even drag racing you wont be in boost that long, I see no reason to spend an extra $200 unless you plan on road racing this car

BTW, my goal is 250-300WHP reliable DD on my stock internal B18C5. Also, re-sleeving is really not a viable option for us that live outside the US so even if I wanted to I cannot re-sleeve my block at the moment

* Turbo Kit consist of:
Quote: AFI ramhorn manifold garrett t3/t4 .60 trim .63a/r
tial 46mm wastegate 8lb spring - overkill, can you save money by switching this to a 38 or 44?
new hks bov brand new in box
3inch downpipe (2 o2 bungs)
dumptube
2-1/2 intercooler piping
intercooler
couplers and clamps
oil feed line
550 rc injectors still like new






threw in my 2 cents.

|2000 Turbo DC2|Jordan Tuned|408whp 300wtq @16psi
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post #8 of 45 (permalink) Old 02-28-2011, 03:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by migee on Feb/28/11
The prices listed seem rather high, are you including shop labour for the installs? 500$ USD for a clutch is overkill if not. Also while I'm all for the Hondata S300, keep in mind that there are cheaper alternatives that can get you there. A nice thing about the hondata though is that it makes tuning much faster and can shave off time on the dyno, and save some money through that means. Exhaust also seems very high, even with labour. I think you can save money in a lot of areas. Also, look around for used parts.

For gauges, prosports work great, I use them. Boost and oil temp should be good enough, though A/F cant hurt. Going wideband really isnt needed here, so long as you get a good tune you are fine.


Thanks for the feedback, I am on the hunt for decent used part right now. I set prices on the high side to keep it realistic for budget kinda included shipping there too. I am living in Europe so I cant escape the shipping cost To keep cost low I am doing everything except the tunning. Dont really know what kond of clutch. Just like shipping Hondata is the tunner's preference here. Keep in mind Europe is behind in the tunning industry so I stay with ther comfort zone.

Someone told me the same about the clutch, I might be able to buy one for $350 but shipping would probably cost $50, so I'll be saving $100 there. However, I might've under priced the guages, I forgot about that the sensor(s) for each each of the guages.

Quote: integraGSBoy on Feb/28/11 FUEL PUMP $150 (Walbro 255) walbros are not this much, they are $100 with the install kit and costs barely anything to ship
EMS $500 (Hondata S300 or AEM) you can save $500 by switching to crome. I dont see why you need S300 if youre trying to save money. While crome may not have all the features, its more than fine for your goals and to get you by until you can purchase S300 without having budget constraints
EXHAUST $600 (Skunk2 or Tanabe)expensive!, go with kteller 3 inch with your choice of a muffler. The piping is $330 and a muffler like a vibrant or ebay one is like $100
CLUTCH $500 Competition stage 4 -- $350 -- all you will need
OIL COOLER $200 (could be done after tunning) oil cooler setup is not needed unless youre road racing. Even drag racing you wont be in boost that long, I see no reason to spend an extra $200 unless you plan on road racing this car

threw in my 2 cents.
Thanks. The budget thing is more of a discipline rather than a constraints. I could easly see why/how people spend upwards to $10K trying to build their car. I'm trying to avoid that by setting a financial limit to myself. I'm trying to get a decent part(new/used) now so I don't have to buy another replacement in the future unless it breaks. I do more road racing than drag that's why I figured I needed the oil cooler plus the fact that with Autobahn driving keeps the me at high RPM levels (wishing ITRs came in 6 gears) for hours sometimes.
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post #9 of 45 (permalink) Old 02-28-2011, 03:59 PM
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Oil cooler would be nice at that point.

You should look into getting a full radiator tuck rather than running a half size dual core.
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post #10 of 45 (permalink) Old 02-28-2011, 04:25 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by integraGSBoy on Feb/28/11
Oil cooler would be nice at that point.

You should look into getting a full radiator tuck rather than running a half size dual core.


Interesting. 1st time hearing this but sounds like a good idea. Doing some research now. Thanks for the tip.

Edit: Did a little research and it looks like I might have to wait till I get the manifold & turbo installed to see if I really need it. Tucked radiator does not sound like a bad idea it seems to be on the aesthetic side right now rather than necessity.
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post #11 of 45 (permalink) Old 02-28-2011, 08:23 PM
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Just wondering are you going to do any head work? Will you do a compression test? You may want to find the tuner you want to use and go talk to with them as to what you want to do and what ECU you wanna run with. Some shops may prefer a different ecu over another one. Your doing a very smart thing by doing lots of research first!! Are you keeping power steering and ac?? I don't know your security but you may want to improve it. fuel cut off switch etc.... I didn't see it on your list but are you getting a turbo timer?

If you haven't felt a fully spooled turbo you haven't lived...
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post #12 of 45 (permalink) Old 03-01-2011, 04:08 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by foodmonster69 on Mar/01/11
Just wondering are you going to do any head work? Will you do a compression test? You may want to find the tuner you want to use and go talk to with them as to what you want to do and what ECU you wanna run with. Some shops may prefer a different ecu over another one. Your doing a very smart thing by doing lots of research first!! Are you keeping power steering and ac?? I don't know your security but you may want to improve it. fuel cut off switch etc.... I didn't see it on your list but are you getting a turbo timer?
No head or bottom work being done due to lack of reputable places here and the ones that do some type of machining cost an arm and a leg. Last time I tried to price a port and polish the heads on my GSR they quoted me with 1,000 euros. I will be doing compression and leak down test in the next couple of weeks before I start installing any go fast parts. The AFI ramhorn I will have does not seem to be A/C friendly and waiting to see about the P/S. The guy I'm buying it from never had a chance to install the turbo kit to his car so he wasn't able to help much. I could always change manifolds down the road if I end up not liking this one. Turbo timer is one of the accessories that is not a necessity right now and all my readings supports this so far. As far as the "security" mods? It will have to remain a secret as an added security
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post #13 of 45 (permalink) Old 03-01-2011, 07:05 PM
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Boost controller is not a bad idea and your so dead on about security.... its not secure if everyone knows about it

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post #14 of 45 (permalink) Old 03-01-2011, 07:28 PM
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Just make sure you keep her safe now!!!! Good luck!
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