Weird Cooling Issue - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-17-2019, 04:03 PM Thread Starter
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Weird Cooling Issue

So I just recently finished swapping radiators and installing my turbo and what not almost 2 months ago. During this time the car has been down for numerous issues (tranny, overheating, water pump, ect) and we finally straightened out all the bugs except for this slight overheating problem we've had since day 1 of the upgrade. The car runs a little over half way through the cold side when driving, doing pulls, & idle. But when sitting in traffic and you start accelerating from a light the temps will spike up over half way very quick until you get up to speed and the wind drops the temps back down. Then when you stop at another light the temps maintain until accelerating up to speed again. I just changed the water pump and thermostat and I flushed and refilled the coolant with distilled water & royal purple. Also the fans are wired to the ignition so they are always on (3 ebay slim fans). I don't think its the head gasket since its an odd occasion when it starts overheating but I wonder if it may be insufficient cooling setup. Any input?
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-18-2019, 10:51 AM
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If the coolant level is dropping and you don't have any coolant leaks than I would suspect a head gasket. Otherwise I would look elsewhere (faulty water temp sensor for the gauge, clogged system, wiring etc.)

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-18-2019, 11:01 AM Thread Starter
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It doesn't seem to be dropping but it may be just enough to where im not noticing. Ill double check soon to see if the levels get lower. It seems like the gauge is working properly because when it does start climbing temp the overflow fills up and i can hear it boiling.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-18-2019, 11:20 AM
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It does sound like a headgasket to me. Hope you didn't use $19 gasket from ebay. You may want to retorque the head studs if it turns out to be the headgasket. I said head studs assuming you already replaced OEM head bolts. Also, check to see if your oil is mixing with the coolant.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-18-2019, 12:03 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah thats what im thinking. I just didnt want to believe it lol. Im not sure what headgasket or studs were used previously. I was told this engine has 30k miles on it and it was just rebuilt with oem parts but so far it hasn't been too promising. It probably wouldn't hurt to just go ahead and put a new one in anyways. There's no signs of it being the headgasket like oil/ coolant mixture or compression loss but everything else has been replaced so thats the last thing.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-18-2019, 12:57 PM Thread Starter
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Unless its this cheap ebay radiator I bought. The problem started shortly after I installed it. Then the following week i installed the turbo.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-18-2019, 03:08 PM
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I doubt the ebay radiator is the culprit. If you are going to replace the headgasket, make sure you check the head for straightness and also the deck for scratches and damage. I would also take a good look at the threads and replace the studs if needed. Hope you don't have thread issues inside the block.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-18-2019, 05:18 PM Thread Starter
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Ok I'll order an oem hg and probably just be safe and get arp studs. Anything else I should look out for when I tear this block down for the first time? Being that it was "rebuilt" i can only imagine what else is weak.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-18-2019, 05:47 PM
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If this is an LSVTEC then make sure to confirm whether or not the lsvtec conversion dowels' larger diameters are not protruding above the deck surface. Otherwise it would prevent the headgasket from ever sealing. I had that issue. Also, inspect cylinder walls for hairline cracks at the top of each cylinder. Best way to notice is to lightly run 2,000-grit sandpaper around the circumference. A crack, unlike scratch, will go through the sleeve and will show up as a dark line. Other than that just the routine check of cams, cam cap surfaces to make sure there isn't anything that catches your eye. Might as well adjust the valve lash, inspect the timing belt and see if the water pump is fresh looking, if not I would replace it too. Obviously the hoses. I'd also inspect each electrical connector for cracked wire insulation. Easy to access and repair while the cylinder head is off the car.

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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-19-2019, 10:59 AM
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Not likely a candidate, but no one mentioned it either: did you burp the radiator the last time you filled it?
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-23-2019, 04:40 PM Thread Starter
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Yes and it usually helps every time. I also heard there's a bleeder valve somewhere for the coolant?
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-23-2019, 04:41 PM Thread Starter
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Update:
I rode the car out for a week and all week it stayed ice cold and this weekend I beat the hell out of it and the temps wouldnt budge. Not sure what the issue was but I guess it worked itsself out. I'll see how long it lasts.
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-31-2019, 10:31 AM Thread Starter
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Update #2:
Took the car to the track this weekend and temps stayed ice cold! No changes were made so something weird was going on.
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-31-2019, 11:03 AM
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sounds like there was an airpocket yet in the cooling system somewhere if it just magically went away and the coolant level dropped.

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