Stuttering, Missfiring, popping noise, horrible etc - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-16-2018, 08:30 PM Thread Starter
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Unhappy Stuttering, Missfiring, popping noise, horrible etc

2000 Acura Integra GSR Vtec B18
Please everyone help me. I'm crying everyday. I'm too tired to right, or read posting rules. Please click on my youtube link. I tried to be specific with everything for those who manage to read to the end. Excuse our New Orleans accent.


Background:
Purchased the car in July 9th 2018. No performance issues.

The car was purchased already showing check engine light code P0420, (yeah I was desperate for transportation) Then shortly thereafter the engine code read PO430 and no longer PO420.

August 17th had the following service done by shade tree mechanic (my X-husband's friend)
1.) I had the o2 sensors replaced both upstream and downstream.
2.) Spark plug wires and new spark plugs.
3. Valve cover gasket
4.) Oil pan gasket
5.) 4 struts
6.) New brake pads
7.) Oil pressure switch (the oil light was blinking periodically upon purchase of the car)
8.) Oil changed Mobile 1 synthetic 5W30
As soon as the work was done I pulled off and the car started stuttering
August 18th engine code PO170 and PO171 came on
1.) I noticed as I was driving the car was losing power
2.)Stuttering
3.) Burning gas very fast
4.) The needle RPM whatever was dropping very low as I pressed on brakes and switch gear to #1
5.) Loud popping noise
August 22nd he said the donut gasket was off, probably broke when he dropped exhaust to change oil pan gasket.
1.) He installed new donut gasket.......all was well until about 4 days later, car started doing the same thing only worse. now I can't drive it
Now I'm told he put the spark plug wires i wrong, and O2 sensor.
I can't drive at all. HELP ME! I'M CATCHING PANIC ATTACKS
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-19-2018, 02:52 PM
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You can double check that the spark wires are connected correctly by using the following diagram:





P0170 and P0171 codes suggest your car is running lean. Here are the possible causes:




Please note, your car does not have a MAFS.


If the fuel filter is clogged it would also restrict fuel delivery to the engine. You may want to replace it. Here is a DIY on how to do it:


https://www.team-integra.net/forum/b...r-replace.html


Hope this helps.

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Last edited by Built_not_bought; 10-19-2018 at 08:32 PM.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-25-2018, 02:12 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the diagram. The few people who looked at my car were trying to figure out the correct order. I looked online but didn't understand how to type in the search box, google kept giving me other integras. I think it is more than the spark plug wires now. My uncle came by Saturday, he noticed two things. 1

1.) The wrong bolts were on the catalytic converter where it connects to the exhaust, so my exist was leaking P0170/P0171. I purchased a new catalytic converter, my uncle was going to do the install but did,'t have the proper tools. So he put the correct bolts on and I noticed more power when I pushed my foot onto the accelerator; however, I still can't drive it.

2.) He said the part above the engine (can't remember what it's called) is causing the popping noise to flow through the cold air intake and the popping noise can be heard in the red air filter. Someone will be here Saturday to take a look at it AGAIN.

*SIDE NOTE* My uncle believes that the first mechanic intentionally put the wrong bolts on to squeeze more money out of me because he kept telling me to bring my car to his friends exhaust shop right away.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-25-2018, 02:34 PM Thread Starter
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I uploaded a picture in "My Garage" to show where the problem area is that is causing the popping noise to flow through the cold air intake. I do not know how to attach a photo to the post yet. Thanks to all who is showing concern and watching the video. Thank you so much.



Last edited by MorningZ; 10-26-2018 at 02:45 PM. Reason: ** Added said picture inline for you **
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-25-2018, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
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The popping noise is coming from the area that is connected to the cold air intake that is positioned above the engine, somewhere close to where the throttle body is located. It looks like 4 big fingers and it's silver lol I am sorry I don't know much about the parts. I am learning as I go. I don't even know how to properly put air in the car's tires.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-26-2018, 06:51 AM
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You have a Short Ram Intake not a Cold Air Intake. Cold Air Intake your pulling in cold air outside of the engine bay. Short Ram Intake your pulling hot air (motor heat).


I have a feeling you are referring to the big silver thing that set behind the engine and connect to the throttle body with (4) runners. That is called a Intake Manifold. The more I read your post. I won't be surprise that the timing is off.



On your vehicle you have (2) butterflies Valve for Primary and Secondary. Something to check in that area.



Intake Manifold Diagram



Throttle Diagram

About time I can now apply for Historic Tags for my GS/VTEC Automatic and no more SMOG
-------------------
In other news: New edition to the family born on August 21, 2018 @ 3:10am

Last edited by phatintegra; 10-26-2018 at 07:10 AM.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-26-2018, 07:14 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Built_not_bought View Post
You can double check that the spark wires are connected correctly by using the following diagram:





P0170 and P0171 codes suggest your car is running lean. Here are the possible causes:




Please note, your car does not have a MAFS.


If the fuel filter is clogged it would also restrict fuel delivery to the engine. You may want to replace it. Here is a DIY on how to do it:


https://www.team-integra.net/forum/b...r-replace.html


Hope this helps.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sheisavirgo View Post
2000 Acura Integra GSR Vtec B18
Please everyone help me. I'm crying everyday. I'm too tired to right, or read posting rules. Please click on my youtube link. I tried to be specific with everything for those who manage to read to the end. Excuse our New Orleans accent.

https://youtu.be/cDtnATifKsM

Background:
Purchased the car in July 9th 2018. No performance issues.

The car was purchased already showing check engine light code P0420, (yeah I was desperate for transportation) Then shortly thereafter the engine code read PO430 and no longer PO420.

August 17th had the following service done by shade tree mechanic (my X-husband's friend)
1.) I had the o2 sensors replaced both upstream and downstream.
2.) Spark plug wires and new spark plugs.
3. Valve cover gasket
4.) Oil pan gasket
5.) 4 struts
6.) New brake pads
7.) Oil pressure switch (the oil light was blinking periodically upon purchase of the car)
8.) Oil changed Mobile 1 synthetic 5W30
As soon as the work was done I pulled off and the car started stuttering
August 18th engine code PO170 and PO171 came on
1.) I noticed as I was driving the car was losing power
2.)Stuttering
3.) Burning gas very fast
4.) The needle RPM whatever was dropping very low as I pressed on brakes and switch gear to #1
5.) Loud popping noise
August 22nd he said the donut gasket was off, probably broke when he dropped exhaust to change oil pan gasket.
1.) He installed new donut gasket.......all was well until about 4 days later, car started doing the same thing only worse. now I can't drive it
Now I'm told he put the spark plug wires i wrong, and O2 sensor.
I can't drive at all. HELP ME! I'M CATCHING PANIC ATTACKS
Quote:
Originally Posted by phatintegra View Post
You have a Short Ram Intake not a Cold Air Intake. Cold Air Intake your pulling in cold air outside of the engine bay. Short Ram Intake your pulling hot air (motor heat).


I have a feeling you are referring to the big silver thing that set behind the engine and connect to the throttle body with (4) runners. That is called a Intake Manifold.



On your vehicle you have (2) butterflies Valve for Primary and Secondary. Something to check in that area.



Intake Manifold Diagram



Throttle Diagram


You're up early! Thanks for the info! I can't sleep thinking about the damage to the car. As of now I've been up 24 hours straight. At any rate, the best I can explain is that in the throttle diagram that you provided, the noise is coming from somewhere in the middle of whatever that is called, all the way to #4. When pressing on the gas is when you hear the popping noise. In one of my videos on YouTube you'll see we swapped out the short ram and the filter as you say. I don't know what anything is called to describe anything. I was just trying to buy a car to go back and forth to work and school, and now I feel like I'm Alice in Wonderland.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-26-2018, 12:29 PM
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The popping noise inside intake manifold (large silver part that resembles "4 fingers") is unusual. The popping noise usually relates to engine backfire and is amplified by the muffler. If you have a popping noise inside the intake manifold (IM) and the car has lost the power, perhaps you experience a mechanical failure inside it. As patintegra said earlier, there are so called butterflies inside the IM. These are 4 metal plates that control the air flow, which you can't see unless you take the IM apart. I personally never heard of such problem, but parts do fail. I agree with patintegra that the sound you are trying to describe maybe related to the timing belt's incorrect position. When set correctly, the timing belt synchronizes fuel, air and spark delivery in relation to piston and valve position. If the timing is off by 1 tooth, you maybe experience early spark delivery, also known as pre-ignition. This would produce a sound you may be hearing. But before you begin verifying the timing belt position, If you haven't done so recently, consider replacing the following:
1. Spark plugs.
2. Spark plug wires.
3. Fuel filter
4. Air filter.
5. Remove distributor cap to confirm that the rotor inside is still attached with a single screw. Basically try to wobble the rotor to make sure its not lose. You may actually want to replace the rotor and the distributor cap all together. Below is the distributor diagram:





Picture below shows distributor cap and rotor already removed:





Sound like many things, but you would get better MPG regardless of whether it fixes the issue or not. The car would also run stronger and smoother. There is a chance that your fuel pump maybe going out, but that would be the last thing I would look into replacing. When new catalyc converter was installed, I wonder if there was something inside it that may restrict the exhaust flow. The noise you described is also similar to a clogged catalic.

Last edited by Built_not_bought; 10-30-2018 at 01:16 PM.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-28-2018, 12:26 AM Thread Starter
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UPDATE: Mechanic inspected the car this evening, and he's leaning towards the catalytic converter and timing. So our concern right now is that there is no other damage as a result of it.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-28-2018, 09:54 AM
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When the timing is off, there is a chance that pistons came in contact with valves. When that happens, the valves get bent. The easy way to check if that is the case is to perform a compression test, after confirming that the timing is set correctly. As far as catalic converter, that would not cause any damage.
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-29-2018, 03:30 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Built_not_bought View Post
When the timing is off, there is a chance that pistons came in contact with valves. When that happens, the valves get bent. The easy way to check if that is the case is to perform a compression test, after confirming that the timing is set correctly. As far as catalic converter, that would not cause any damage.
UPDATE #2
ok,it is great you said this because the mechanic said the same thing too. Thank you so much
The timing is off by 2 teeth. He will begin the repairs later this week and checking for other damages as you said. ......face palm!

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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-30-2018, 05:59 AM
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I knew it was the timing. In this case I would replace the timing belt and water pump while your doing the repair it will save you time and labor cost if your doing the piston/valve repair.
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-31-2018, 06:26 PM
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id get a valve lash done and also check the rockers to make sure they haven't moved from their spots, its a very rare issue, but Ive had it happen.

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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-20-2018, 09:55 PM Thread Starter
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UPDATE#3

Can you guys believe this freaking "mechanic" still hasn't started on my car? I had to curse him out. Now he did a compression check (whatever this means) he said no pressure. He said that a valve is bent but not sure how many (what??) Asked me was it interference or non-interference engine. (told me look into the manual that he brought me) He said whoever replaced the timing belt didn't set it back right and broke the keyway to the exhaust camshaft. He said he'll fix it BUT it'll be pricey. I don't know what to do. My uncle told me to do an engine swap, but this defeats the purpose of VTEC engine. Wouldn't the car be worthless without VTEC engine? If I sell it in this condition would it be worth anything? HELP!!! i DON'T KNOW WHAT TO DO.
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