Join Date: Aug 2011
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Your ECU will work after installation ofaftermarket intake and exhaust. As I mentioned earlier, the power gain will beminimal and will not damage the engine. You don’t need to do anything to theignition, as that’s not where you gain the power. The simplest way to increaseacceleration is to remove non-critical metal parts off the car to make itlighter. Remember, its all about power to weight ratio. In this case, the lighter the car, the less the drag, the faster the acceleration.
I recognize your desire to increase thehorsepower. There are many ways to do it. But as another member mentioned inthe post above, you may need to learn few things first. With that being said, Iwould like to help you by suggesting the following:
1. Purchase a failed, but complete B18B1 or B18A1 long block (engine) off craigslist. Do not spend more than $100 on it. Try to get one with a timing belt and harmonic balancer (main pulley). Stop by a car wash and pressure wash it best you can, before taking it home. You may want to purchasean engine stand ($50), but that is not necessary as long as you can secure the engine using 2x4s.
2. Get the following tools from Harbor Freight Store, if money is an issue. I suggest you avoid buying precision tools from there. Precision tools that have "Made in USA" stamp are among the best in the world.
a) Set of metric 3/8” sockets sizes: 10mm, 12,14,17 and 19mm
b) 3/8" wrench
c) Universal piston ring compressor tool (under$10). Not ideal, but would work for practicing) .
d) Torque wrench with a range between 8 ft-lband132 ft-lb. You will need two of them, one 3/8" and other1/2" as eachwill cover only a certain torque range.
e) Zip lock bags and a sharpie (to separate andidentify bolts, nuts and small parts that you remove).
f) 18” breaker bar
g) 8”-long, 3/8” socket extension
h) Piston ring expander (under $10)
i) Print a "Do It Yourself" B18A1orB18B1 engine rebuild guide from Google. Also print engine specs (clearancesand bolt torques).
j) Engine assembly lube, black or grey liquidgasket (oil and heat resistant), and 90% rubbing alcohol.
k) Hone (grit between 240 and 400) - around $35
Now, remove all the parts off that engine, and then put it back together. You may need to take pictures and some notes as you go (to remember where parts go). The first tear-down will be difficult and slow. Putting it back together will be even harder. But remember, this is a badengine so mistakes are not critical. I suggest you go through this process afew times by gradually increasing the level of difficulty. Here are the things you shall start focusing on (not in order):
a) torque specs
b) piston ring positions and gap locations
c) hone each cylinder using a drill at low speed.Slow up and down movement to achieve hatch marks at 45 degrees. (Don't forget to clean cylinders after honing.)
d) practice lowering crankshaft w/o accidentalmetal on metal contact ("ding" sound).
e) scrape old gaskets off the oil pump, rear mainplate, oil pan, head to valve cover. Wipe these surfaces with rubbing alcohol and apply new liquid gasket.
f) remove remnants of old intakemanifold gasket on both the cylinder head and intake manifold.
g) apply assembly lube to rod and main bearings,thrust washers, rocker arms, cams seats and caps.
h) properly set the timing
i) use oil on certain bolts threads such asharmonic balancer bolt, main cap bolts, cam bolts.
Once you are comfortable with the above process, I suggest that you purchase the following (additional) tools. Note, you may get away without some of these, but remember, the more measurements you take - the better. Performing your own blue printing of the engine so you can verify that the part fitment either meets or exceeds the manufacturer specs is going to yield successful results:
a) Set of filler gauges (around $15)
b) Green plastigauges (under $10)
c) Straight edge (around $35)
d) Valve spring compressor ($25)
e) Valve lapping tool (under $10)
f) Valve lapping paste (under $10)
g) Set of micrometers( 1"-2",2"-3" and 3"-4", w/.0001 accuracy each). Starrett is a good brand. Each micrometer (if purchased used) shall cost you around $30.
h) Telescoping gauge (3"-4").
i) Valve stem seal pliers $10
j) Honda cranks pulley removal tool $15
k) 10mm 7-1/2-inch jam nut valve adjustment tool $10
l) Cam gear lock $15
m) Valve seal pusher $30
n) Crankshaft endplay measuring tool
With the above tools you will be able to rebuild any engine. Some engines may require machine work. An example would be an engine that has deep scratches, and/or ridges just above the top compression ring (when the piston is a at TDC). Following the machine work (cylinder rebore) you would need larger pistons (81.25mm or larger), instead of the original 81.00mm.
Remember, this is not a rocket science. Just don't be afraid - you have nothing to lose. Watch Youtube videos. Read TI posts. Ask questions. Goodluck!
Last edited by Built_not_bought; 09-06-2018 at 06:07 PM.