Head Work Parts List Help - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-28-2015, 05:25 PM Thread Starter
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Head Work Parts List Help

So I am finally nearing the time for major head work to be done. This is on a B18B. Yes I know the head is inferior. No I do not want VTEC. And the motor will continue to be setup for N/A.

That being said, here is where I am at. Bottom end is done with CP Pistons with a 10.5CR. Bolt ons already on the motor. Going to go with Crower 404s. Going to have the headwork done by KingMotorSports. Leaning towards ultra build but may stick to street.

Now this is where I get fuzzy on the details. I am obviously going dual valve springs. Looking to stick with steel retainers. I don't think I need Titanium retainers but I could be wrong. Do I need ss valves? Do I need bronze valve guides? I know bronze valve guides wear faster which is why I am asking. Anything else I am overlooking?

This mostly stems from the supertech valvetrain package that is offered which is a good deal but if I am not going to need half the stuff then why purchase it. I want a car that doesn't need to have everything replaced every year or two but if that's what needs to be done, that's what needs to be done.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-28-2015, 06:21 PM
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Stainless valves are always good, get nitrate coated if you can afford it.

The valve guides are fully up to you, but bronze can wear faster in super high RPM heads, for non-Vtec and using nitrate coated valves, you should be good with bronze though.

You should be fine with steel retainers, titanium is for 11k RPM motors, you're very unlikely to get that out of a non-Vtec head or non-boosted/blown motor.

What valve seals do you have in mind?
Are you going to have the head ported and/or polished?
Are you going to have your IM ported and/or polished? (I have no idea what advantages this may or may not have, but I've heard of some odd shit...)

I can't think of anything else off the top of my head. Good luck!
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-28-2015, 06:38 PM
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For the life of me I can't remember their proper name, but the seals between the head and the back of the valve head. What are you planning to do about those?
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-28-2015, 06:52 PM Thread Starter
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This is what I am going to have done on the head, well if I go with the ultra option.
"The Ultra Performance Head Port and Valve Job includes every WHP increasing trick we have up our sleeve. Although streetable, this option is most often used in high-HP race engines. Custom-tailored for your specific application, we configure this option to not only your internals, but to the specific use; ie strip, track or street. It begins with disassembly, inspection and cleaning. Now begins the porting - shaping the ports and chambers to produce maximum performance based on what cams and valves you're using. The valves may be faced and/or back cut. The valve seats are then cut with a multi-angle grind, the valves are lapped and the valve seals are replaced. All valves are vacuum-checked. Your head and block are milled to achieve the correct compression, chamber shape and squish, as well as piston top to deck depth or protrusion at TDC. All internals will be reused unless damaged or worn. Any parts needing replacement (excluding valve seals) will be extra, but you will be informed of any damaged parts before we continue. Your free-breathing head is then completely assembled using Redline Assembly Lube."

This is the street build "The Street Performance Head Port and Valve Job is based on one of our proven designs, then custom-tailored for your specific application. It begins with disassembly, inspection and cleaning. Now begins the porting - shaping the ports and chambers to produce maximum performance based on what cams and valves you're using. The valve seats are then cut with a multi-angle grind, the valves are lapped and the valve seals are replaced. All valves are vacuum-checked. Your head is then milled a minimum .005" - your head and block may be milled substantially more to achieve the correct compression and chamber shape. All internals will be reused unless damaged or worn. Any parts needing replacement (excluding valve seals) will be extra, but you will be informed of any damaged parts before we continue. Your free-breathing head is then completely assembled using Redline Assembly Lube."

They are taking care of the seals so I am not sure on that. IM and Header will be port matched.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-28-2015, 07:00 PM
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can't beat OEm valve guides so that's what I went with oh and for the life of me I can't figure oout why you wouldent want v tec
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-28-2015, 08:15 PM Thread Starter
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Just to be different I guess. And to much time invested for me now to be ok with switching.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-28-2015, 08:47 PM
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@NA-LS If you're going to have everything ported and matched, then you may as well go with good valves, i.e. stainless with a nitrate coating.

And @JDR is 1/2 right about OE valve guides, they are really good, as long as you aren't revving the motor far past what the guides were made for. I'm not sure what your redline will be with the valves, springs, and cams your going to be using, but I'm sure it's over the 7k-ish stock redline. But, as long as it's a DD and not a racecar, the OE guides are more than enough, just don't sit at 8k RPM all the time like a nob lol.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-29-2015, 01:17 PM
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I don't have any experience with N/A LS builds but I do have a friend who has made 412 HP on boost with OEm valves
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