How to install an LSD - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
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post #1 of 65 (permalink) Old 12-06-2010, 01:15 PM Thread Starter
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This thread will hopefully help serve as a guide for those wanting to install an LSD into their trans but need a bit of a walkthrough along the way.

Neither I nor T-I will take any responsibility for anything that may go wrong while an inexperienced person uses this thread to attempt an LSD install. The user of this thread should assume all responsibility for their actions. If you feel this task is outside of your abilities please get a professional to complete your install.

Begin with removing the transmission from the vehicle. This could be a whole thread in itself, but should be easily accomplished in a couple of hours with a jack, jack stands, some basic hand tools, and maybe a friend to lend some muscle.

I will be installing my LSD into my GSR trans, there may be some differences between the GSR/LS trans as far as specs and internal components go. Consult your service manual for your applicable model for appropriate specs.

once removed from the car your engine bay should look like this:



This is your GSR manual transmission on the floor of your garage:



Then place your transmission on a workbench or appropriate work surface with a block of wood (2X4 or something) under each side. This is very important because the transmission's input shaft extends out past the bell housing. If you attempt to place the transmission bell housing side down on your work surface without your wood blocks, input shaft damage can occur.

Here is how it should look when sitting on your bench:



A few pics of all sides of the transmission may help you with remembering where all bolts/brackets/components go later when your memory has failed you.









Next remove the back-up light switch w/ a 19mm wrench:



Then I mark and remove the reverse idler gear shaft bolt and detent bolts springs and steel balls.

This is the reverse idler gear shaft bolt I have marked the bolt head and case with one mark:



I have marked the detent bolt heads and case with two and three marks:



once removed these three should look like this:
Make sure the detent bolts/springs/balls are all out of the trans. You may use a magnet to get the balls out, I just tipped the case toward me and it fell out in my hand.



Remove all the brackets from the outer case and remove 16 case bolts with a 12mm socket.

The case bolts wrap around the entire perimeter of the case and here is a picture of where a portion of them are located. I highlighted a few of them with my handy MS paint skills lol! Just follow this row of bolts around the case and make sure you get them all.



Remove the plug that gives you access to the countershaft snap ring. This plug is a square 1/2 drive. Use a 1/2 drive ratchet or breaker bar to remove this. DO NOT USE YOUR IMPACT!!! You will very easily crack the case if you use your impact on this plug to remove or install it.



once removed you should be staring at this:



Use snap ring pliers or just some needle nose and hold this snap ring open as wide as possible



While holding this snap ring open, begin to gently pry the outer case off of the bell housing like so:





And Voila the outer case comes off



Here is what your now exposed gear stacks should look like:



More to come!
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How to Install an LSD
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post #2 of 65 (permalink) Old 12-06-2010, 01:48 PM
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excellent ive seen the video on youtube of this but id always much rather just come to TI for an article thanks and keep it up!
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post #3 of 65 (permalink) Old 12-06-2010, 02:10 PM
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Nice! i just bought a LSD for my winter build, this article will be very handy, thanks

"I removed every luxury power item on the car rofl. No A/C, No P/S, No C/C, and No ABS, or SRS for that matter hehe. Haven't missed any of it. I may miss SRS if my face smashes the steering wheel but i think i'll be okay." -97lsteggy
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post #4 of 65 (permalink) Old 12-06-2010, 06:31 PM
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not trying to be a smart ass but shouldnt we drain the tranny fluid?
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post #5 of 65 (permalink) Old 12-06-2010, 08:45 PM
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I think draining the transmission is one of those no-brainer steps. It may not have been a said step but it should be understood that you are taking the tranny apart and if you don't drain the tranny before-hand you are going to end up with a mess.


And yes LS's have a very different final drive and differential, or so I've researched. If you swap over the final drive and bearings from a GSR or ITR, into the LS tranny along with a GSR or ITR differential, you could follow this guide almost exactly. At your own risk of course.

I am inspired by everyone. Whether it is to be smarter than the next dumbass or as smart as those I look up to. Inspiration is everywhere. Creativity isn't lost, it's harder to find among the "run of the mill" train of thought. What the hell will you create?
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post #6 of 65 (permalink) Old 12-06-2010, 10:43 PM Thread Starter
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If the tranny fluid was not drained it would escape through the holes in the case where the axles go in the diff as soon as you set it on the bench as I directed in the steps...

I guess I figured that would be part of the common sense steps when removing the trans prior to using this guide.

In answer to your "question" yes drain the trans fluid first.
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post #7 of 65 (permalink) Old 12-07-2010, 05:46 PM Thread Starter
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Next addition starts now. This section will take you further into the trans disassembly.

Begin where we left off the trans outer case is off and your staring at the gear stacks...

Remove these two bolts for the reverse change holder:



After these two bolts are removed the reverse change holder will slide out with ease.

Remove these three bolts from the main change holder assembly:





Then, remove the main change holder assembly like this:



This is what you should be looking at now:



Now grab the 3rd/4th shift fork like this:



And slide the 3/4 synchro hub up to this position:



This will allow you the correct amount of space to remove the reverse idler gear and shaft.

The next goal is to remove this (reverse idler gear and shaft)



Notice the threaded hole? That was what the reverse idler gear shaft bolt on the outside of the case was threaded into...

Now lift up on the shaft to slide it out of the bell housing and keep the gear and shim underneath it together.



Now the whole reverse idler setup should be sitting on your bench:



At this point we are free to remove the mainshaft, countershaft and shift forks. Grab them in some way similar to me in the picture below and remove all these items together at once. Be very careful. Be sure to pull them straight up and out, if not you may damage the mainshaft seal on the inside of the bell housing. This may result in a leak or seal blow out. If you accidentally damage the seal it will need to be replaced.



I find it easiest to keep everything together on the bench like this:



After you have pulled the two shafts and shift forks out look down at your case. There will likely be two washers sitting on top of the countershaft's lower case bearing.

These washers look like this:



The lower one is concave. The top one is flat.

They should be re-installed in this position

------------------ <--- Top flat washer
\ /
\ /<--- Bottom concave washer

Do not reverse this, honda designed it this way for a reason and the position is not interchangeable.

Next, grab the diff and simply pull it out:



Set it on the bench:



Next installment should include removing bearings from the factory open diff and installing them onto the new Limited slip diff.

Last edited by luck4rmkc; 10-17-2013 at 10:06 AM.
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post #8 of 65 (permalink) Old 12-07-2010, 05:51 PM
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Going to use ITR ball bearings instead of the tapered roller bearings?
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post #9 of 65 (permalink) Old 12-07-2010, 06:20 PM
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Josh stated in his build thread that he is going to attempt to re-use the tapered GSR bearings, seeing as he said he hasn't noticed anything wrong before.
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post #10 of 65 (permalink) Old 12-07-2010, 06:32 PM Thread Starter
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That may be dependent on whether I find the bearing removal from the diff to be a total PITA or not...

But yes as Ben said, my plan at this time is to just reuse the tapered roller bearing setup.

As far as my understanding of bearing theory goes, tapered roller bearings have a larger surface area which should make them more effective at handling larger radial loads.

If anyone would like to refute that statement or help better explain the benefits of switching to a roller bearing setup please be my guest.

This thread is to be informative, so as much correct technical information we can add to it just further improves the thread!
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post #11 of 65 (permalink) Old 12-08-2010, 02:22 AM
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Josh,
Thank you sir, the write up seems dead on so far. I can tell you this bc im not lost in the trans yet lol...

Is there any special way to pull and press these bearings that only a honda tech would know?

Eat, Sleep, Hondas...
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post #12 of 65 (permalink) Old 12-20-2010, 08:45 PM
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Oops, no all my bolts weren't out. To contribute something, the lower alternator bolt is kind of hidden, and it's the long one that does go into the engine. Took that out and now my tranny's off.
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post #13 of 65 (permalink) Old 12-20-2010, 08:59 PM
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Wow, Back when i was young i tried to seperate a tranny case from my junk civic trans. Today im happy i was not successful. haha. This just looks like a pain in the ass. Good write up. Good job using many pics! I'll be reading up on this one for a while!

I would never accept that from my paint guy..
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post #14 of 65 (permalink) Old 12-20-2010, 10:40 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsheerin79 on Dec/20/10
Oops, no all my bolts weren't out. To contribute something, the lower alternator bolt is kind of hidden, and it's the long one that does go into the engine. Took that out and now my tranny's off.
That's the starter not the alternator...

Maybe a how to successfully remove and reinstall a transmission would be a helpful how to thread too lol
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