Rattling noise coming from distributor - Page 3 - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
 1Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #29 of 35 (permalink) Old 10-26-2010, 07:18 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: , FL
Posts: 772
Feedback Score: 6 reviews
That's a useful video thanks. Where he mentions the metal plate on the igniter that's a heat-sink if you need to take that apart for a new ICM you should use thermal paste just like you would for a computer CPU heat-sink. Just a very thin coat is all you need.

You get what you pay for.
1point8 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #30 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-02-2010, 01:17 PM
Super Moderator
 
LightningTeg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 5,714
Feedback Score: 24 reviews
That topic on the replacement is awesome. Thanks.

If I get around to it this winter, I'll do my own writeup. I saved that webpage as an HTML file incase it ever goes down.

08' TSX
98' Integra LS Previously 283whp/300ft-lbs; Now 602whp/453ft-lbs, Non-Vtec E85. PB 12.7 @ 128mph

"His Noodly Appendage hath blessed the B-Series"
LightningTeg is offline  
post #31 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-14-2014, 01:00 AM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 10
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Distributor Noise

Hello everyone. The distributor bearing is a common scapegoat during this type of diagnosis The fact of the matter remains this.....

The common thread in all of these posts is that usually there is a timing belt change out. These B18's are very sensitive to timing belt tensioners. I know that this post is old but I see the same people going nuts over this issue many, many times. The fact of the matter is this, if there was no noise before the change and now there is change.....it ain't the distributor. The valve lashes should always be adjusted at this time in any aluminum head.

The tensioner pulley and bolt need to be adjusted after the timing belt is on......you leave it semi-loose until the slack on the belt (seen before the timing cover is put on) is at the idler pulley for the belt. Loosen the pulley, let the slack get taken up at the pulley. If you're rotating the crank bolt to turn the engine over an you get a ton of slack between the two OHC's then your tensioner is too loose. This will cause that EXACT noise. Good news is that if you put the crank to TDC and turn the the engine over manually, you can get the slack right where you need it, loosen the timing belt tensioner then retighten and it will take up the slack.....the noise at the distributor will go away, guaranteed (as long as it wasn't there before). Many, many people go for the distributor and replace it and the noise is still there It won't go away until the timing belt is tensioned properly! Trust me, it will fix that noise. With the belt too loose it causes noise at the distributor.

That is that! Follow the book for tensioning the timing belt tensioner without having to take off the timing cover. The timing belt tensioner bolt has a rubber cap you can remove. If you have decent tools, this is not a problem. I use a 12 mm shallow socket with a Snap On shallow ratchet. It's easy if you have what you need for the job! Try it, you won't be disappointed. You just have to make sure that the belt slack is at the tensioner......I have fixed many cars with this problem. Shops will tell you everything under the sun about the cause....it's all BS. Try this and you'll drive away without that grinding/rattling at the dizzy!
chevymeister likes this.
Yota1987 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #32 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-18-2014, 03:08 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 54
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Mine did this and when I took the rotor off, the new rotor was different, it had a vein that stuck out a bit too far and rubbed the white shield in the distributor. Pulled white shield and it's quiet again.
Tang87 is offline  
post #33 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-15-2014, 03:54 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 3
Garage
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
I have the same problem and I came to some info that said it could be the gear on the camshaft, does that sound accurate? I've already replaced the distributer that I know was bad but the rattle is still there
AuzzyBoy42 is offline  
post #34 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-26-2015, 11:56 AM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 8
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
To ressurect a long dead thread, the noise started after I did my valve lash. Getting ready to go out of town, but I'll see about tightening my timing belt when I get back in about a week.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Yota1987 View Post
Hello everyone. The distributor bearing is a common scapegoat during this type of diagnosis The fact of the matter remains this.....

The common thread in all of these posts is that usually there is a timing belt change out. These B18's are very sensitive to timing belt tensioners. I know that this post is old but I see the same people going nuts over this issue many, many times. The fact of the matter is this, if there was no noise before the change and now there is change.....it ain't the distributor. The valve lashes should always be adjusted at this time in any aluminum head.

The tensioner pulley and bolt need to be adjusted after the timing belt is on......you leave it semi-loose until the slack on the belt (seen before the timing cover is put on) is at the idler pulley for the belt. Loosen the pulley, let the slack get taken up at the pulley. If you're rotating the crank bolt to turn the engine over an you get a ton of slack between the two OHC's then your tensioner is too loose. This will cause that EXACT noise. Good news is that if you put the crank to TDC and turn the the engine over manually, you can get the slack right where you need it, loosen the timing belt tensioner then retighten and it will take up the slack.....the noise at the distributor will go away, guaranteed (as long as it wasn't there before). Many, many people go for the distributor and replace it and the noise is still there It won't go away until the timing belt is tensioned properly! Trust me, it will fix that noise. With the belt too loose it causes noise at the distributor.

That is that! Follow the book for tensioning the timing belt tensioner without having to take off the timing cover. The timing belt tensioner bolt has a rubber cap you can remove. If you have decent tools, this is not a problem. I use a 12 mm shallow socket with a Snap On shallow ratchet. It's easy if you have what you need for the job! Try it, you won't be disappointed. You just have to make sure that the belt slack is at the tensioner......I have fixed many cars with this problem. Shops will tell you everything under the sun about the cause....it's all BS. Try this and you'll drive away without that grinding/rattling at the dizzy!
m3tr1k is offline  
post #35 of 35 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 02:04 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 1
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yota1987 View Post
Hello everyone. The distributor bearing is a common scapegoat during this type of diagnosis The fact of the matter remains this.....

The common thread in all of these posts is that usually there is a timing belt change out. These B18's are very sensitive to timing belt tensioners. I know that this post is old but I see the same people going nuts over this issue many, many times. The fact of the matter is this, if there was no noise before the change and now there is change.....it ain't the distributor. The valve lashes should always be adjusted at this time in any aluminum head.

The tensioner pulley and bolt need to be adjusted after the timing belt is on......you leave it semi-loose until the slack on the belt (seen before the timing cover is put on) is at the idler pulley for the belt. Loosen the pulley, let the slack get taken up at the pulley. If you're rotating the crank bolt to turn the engine over an you get a ton of slack between the two OHC's then your tensioner is too loose. This will cause that EXACT noise. Good news is that if you put the crank to TDC and turn the the engine over manually, you can get the slack right where you need it, loosen the timing belt tensioner then retighten and it will take up the slack.....the noise at the distributor will go away, guaranteed (as long as it wasn't there before). Many, many people go for the distributor and replace it and the noise is still there It won't go away until the timing belt is tensioned properly! Trust me, it will fix that noise. With the belt too loose it causes noise at the distributor.

That is that! Follow the book for tensioning the timing belt tensioner without having to take off the timing cover. The timing belt tensioner bolt has a rubber cap you can remove. If you have decent tools, this is not a problem. I use a 12 mm shallow socket with a Snap On shallow ratchet. It's easy if you have what you need for the job! Try it, you won't be disappointed. You just have to make sure that the belt slack is at the tensioner......I have fixed many cars with this problem. Shops will tell you everything under the sun about the cause....it's all BS. Try this and you'll drive away without that grinding/rattling at the dizzy!
Registered just to say thanks to this piece of information I got my rattling issue solved. I had done the timing belt and valve lash on my 1997 CRV (similar engine) about 5k miles ago and the engine would rattle on cold start up. I took the distributor apart to change out the seal and O ring and didn't find any issues with the lower bushing or upper bearing.

I did a timing belt tension adjustment without taking anything off, other than loosening the accessory drive belts in front preventing my ratchet from being used to loosen the tensioner bolt. Set engine at TDC, loosen tensioner bolt 180deg and then turn the crankpulley counter clockwise till it starts to get stiff (I can't see the 3 teeth the service manual calls for), probably around 10degs or so of rotation on the crank pulley. Tighten the tensioner bolt and accessory belts, started it up and now it's all good.
Li Gangyi is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Team Integra Forums - Team Integra forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome