Loss of power. - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-09-2018, 08:03 PM Thread Starter
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I've searched this forum and the Internet for the past 3 hours now. The problem im having is the engine ran just fine when I parked it yesterday. I was fiddling with it earlier as I was checking my throw out bearing for suspected failure. I unplugged the main relay and cranked the car over several times with the clutch pressed and depressed. I heard this weird noise almost like a snapping sound. The clutch still works but makes some noise. My main concern is now the engine won't accelerate through the rpm range like it should. It's very slow to rev at no load in neutral and almost impossible to drive as it won't rev up quickly. It's also very loud when its rev'd up or driven almost like it has a massive load applied to it. When I let off the clutch and push in the gas to take off it will move then quickly lose rpm and power. Power picks up around 3k but still feels sluggish. It feels like it lost most it's power.

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Last edited by da9steve; 08-09-2018 at 08:09 PM. Reason: Frustrated in finding a solution.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-09-2018, 08:18 PM Thread Starter
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I've checked my spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, it has healthy spark. Next was fuel system. I've checked my pump, pressure regulator, replaced fuel filter with new one, checked the injectors for pulse. Everything works there. I have proper fuel pressure. So fuel and spark both work just fine. In the past its had timing issues with the cam gears eating the keyways.........twice after being properly torqued with loctite. The cam gear bolts are secured with red loctite and 45ft/lbs of torque (bolts snap at 72ft/lbs) so I can't just check those easily. They don't make any sounds like the cams have come loose. I also pulled the codes and have my usual code 9 and code 41. Neither one means much to me as the car has had these codes for years and normally runs fine. I replaced the distributor also years ago so I know code 9 is not my issue here.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-12-2018, 11:29 AM Thread Starter
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So I advanced the distributor all the way (toward's the firewall). Now it runs marginally better. I'm leaning towards my timing belt jumping teeth. I'll be taking it apart to check the timing today. I've already had the valve cover off and the car does still run, the timing belt isn't broke. I initially set the timing 3 teeth advanced about 8 months ago when I replaced my cams.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-12-2018, 07:17 PM
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Hopefully it’s as easy as realigning your cam gears. I wish I could be helpful, but I’m rooting for you finding the culprit quickly. Have you checked cylinder compression lately? I know it’s probably not the problem, but it’s always beneficial to know your bottom end is still healthy.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-13-2018, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by da9steve View Post
So I advanced the distributor all the way (toward's the firewall). Now it runs marginally better. I'm leaning towards my timing belt jumping teeth. I'll be taking it apart to check the timing today. I've already had the valve cover off and the car does still run, the timing belt isn't broke. I initially set the timing 3 teeth advanced about 8 months ago when I replaced my cams.
Inside of your distributor, check the screw that holds the rotor onto the distributor shaft. These have come loose before, which sometimes makes the shaft spin inside of the rotor, causing the rotor not to spin and make contact with each cylinder contact inside the cap.





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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-13-2018, 11:06 PM Thread Starter
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I got the valve cover and timing covers off. The timing is off between the cams and the crank. Everything jumped but yet it runs. Any ideas as to why this engine (B18A1) is trying to commit suicide? This is yet another time the timing is having issues. How can this engine have timing issues now 4 times. Maybe I should just engine swap it lol. The distributor is fine it sparks all cylinders. It started raining so I'll realign it all tomorrow morning. I'm gonna set the timing as 1 tooth advanced. Then ill slightly readjust the distributor forwards (advanced) to compensate for the cams. I'd like to try a different timing and experiment
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-14-2018, 05:56 AM
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Just too much slack in the belt perhaps? You could always add a 2nd tensioner if yours won’t adjust any further. https://youtu.be/c4eBQT-DIgM
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-20-2018, 09:25 PM Thread Starter
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I got it running again. I reset the timing dead on. OK noob mistake i thought the sound was within the trans but the noise is coming from my distributor. I have a spare so I'll replace it when I get my hands on it as its in storage. It sounds like a crunching noise from within the distributor body. Also I drove the car around town and as I went to leave the gas station it felt like the car got kicked in the nuts as it lost all power again and got loud so I made a right to go home and it stalled going up a hill at low speed. I started it back up and went up the hill with what felt like half power then shut it off. I started it back up and it behaved just fine drove home like it was normal. No new engine codes. So I'll check the timing again tomorrow morning and reconfirm it to be perfect since I'll be pulling off my distributor and valve cover. Oh BTW I found a metal flake in my distributor cap. I think the distributor shaft bearing failed. The cap and rotor are perfect condition.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-20-2018, 09:36 PM Thread Starter
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I always make sure to properly tension my timing belt. I won't install my harmonic balencer unless the timing is done. Random fact rz-0045 main relay will start and drive this car. So I think my distributor is broken inside and shifting timing.
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