B18C1 in an EM1... having some fueling issues. - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-05-2019, 08:14 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
MetalMatty's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Dubois, PA.
Posts: 7
Garage
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
B18C1 in an EM1... having some fueling issues.

So, I just bought (yesterday) an EM1 Si with a B18C1 full swap, sorry in advance if I shouldn't post in a Teggy forum. Car ran great the day I drove it, and the kid before me used it as his daily.

So, this morning I went out to leave for work, and when it started, it ran super rough, and if I didn't give it fuel it would shut off. Only way to get it to turn back on was to hold pedal to the floor, then back to giving it gas to keep it alive.

I replaced the cap/rotor, ECTS, and plugs. The plugs, with less than 20 miles on them, are black.

Once it starts up, if I manually keep it alive until it starts to show on the temp gauge, it'll be fine. It'll idle, and drive fine for the most part.

It did stall out on me after I did a 2nd-3rd pull and pushed in the clutch. Fired right up and was fine.

I initially was thinking maybe IACV, because of the cold start issue that goes away once it is warmed up (therefore causing it run super rich and essentially flood out), but that shouldn't effect why it stalled after the 2nd-3rd gear pull.

Anyone have any ideas?
MetalMatty is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-06-2019, 11:27 AM
Senior Member
 
Built_not_bought's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 648
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
You may want to try adjusting the throttle cable.

My Build
404whp
[email protected]
Best 60' - 1.729
Built_not_bought is offline  
post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-07-2019, 09:21 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
MetalMatty's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Dubois, PA.
Posts: 7
Garage
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by Built_not_bought View Post
You may want to try adjusting the throttle cable.
Odd as it sounds, we changed the very, very badly leaking valve cover gasket, and since then it has been fine. It's had one stall in the 25 miles I've put on it since then.

I think I'm going to clean the IACV soon as I get the gasket, and see if that helps.

We did a compression test, but honestly the engine runs way too strong to be truly showing the numbers his cheapo tester gave us, so I'm going to try it again with a known good tester before I worry too much.

We are almost thinking it might be a valve issue. Maybe valves sticking open on one cylinder, causing that cylinder to not burn, and the rich fuel smell/flooding symptoms. Then, when it feels like it, the valve un-sticks, and the car runs great.
MetalMatty is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-07-2019, 05:30 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
MetalMatty's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Dubois, PA.
Posts: 7
Garage
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Well, I tried adjusting the idle, but I can't unplug the IACV without the idle dropping so low the car shuts off.

Sooo... I'm gonna try cleaning the IACV tomorrow if the weather holds off. Doubt it will because that's how it goes.

The idle is at around 750, but the whole car shakes at idle AND when it's coming down off revs, the idle drops below it's mark before it catches itself. It's not usually an issue, but if I let the revs fall while making a turn (I assume this is from the power steering putting extra load on the engine), they drop down to 500 or so, and sometimes it shuts off completely.
MetalMatty is offline  
post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 10:20 AM
Senior Member
 
Built_not_bought's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 648
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
My experience with IACV is that the rpms would begin rising to about 2K and dropping back to 750 as soon as the car warms up. So the symptoms you are describing are different. I had same idling issue with my car for a long time. Finally gave-up looking for the culprit and took it to my tuner, he adjusted the cable using a voltmeter to verify that TPS voltage is where it should be at idle and explained that depending on how I let go of the throttle (gradual vs. quick drop) was the factor. Basically if I slowly let of gas then the throttle cable would not return to its true position, vs. if I drop the gas pedal quickly then it actually would and the rpm would just drop below its threshold and the car would stall. He physically pulled the gas pedal up before adjusting the cable to make sure the pedal was all the way up. Had zero issues since. Until then, it was a nightmare for a long long time.
Built_not_bought is offline  
post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 11:15 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: , LA
Posts: 3,555
Feedback Score: 4 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by MetalMatty View Post
Well, I tried adjusting the idle, but I can't unplug the IACV without the idle dropping so low the car shuts off.

Sooo... I'm gonna try cleaning the IACV tomorrow if the weather holds off. Doubt it will because that's how it goes.

The idle is at around 750, but the whole car shakes at idle AND when it's coming down off revs, the idle drops below it's mark before it catches itself. It's not usually an issue, but if I let the revs fall while making a turn (I assume this is from the power steering putting extra load on the engine), they drop down to 500 or so, and sometimes it shuts off completely.

fsm states that if the car dies after unpluggin the iacv, plug it back in, start up the car, rev it to 3k until fan kicks on, unplug iacv again.
tony_2018 is offline  
post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 11:13 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
MetalMatty's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Dubois, PA.
Posts: 7
Garage
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
This car is just becoming a nightmare. While I was pissing around, I noticed that the throttle cable was fecked. It was too short, so the idiots before me backed the left hand lock nut off so far it came off the threads... they then crossthreaded it onto that smaller patch of threading, and cut a random nut in half to use a spacer...

So new ITR cable/bracket is coming.

I also noticed that the distributor for some reason isn't 0'd out (bolts are the whole way to the right of the opening, don't recall if that's advanced or retarded) and the intake cam gear looks like it is fully adjusted too. The exhaust cam adjusters are perfectly centered, the intake cam adjuster bolts are all the way to the right I think.

All of my previous cars were timing chain cars... never had to mess with timing. So this crap drives me crazy, cause I don't understand it.
MetalMatty is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Team Integra Forums - Team Integra forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
2001 Acura Integra Issues darkzero749 Performance 1 03-27-2019 10:56 AM
Chasing issues. B18B1 EG Hatch RetiredHippie Performance 10 12-25-2018 06:54 AM
Steering Issues LordTeg_95 Suspension and Brakes 1 12-16-2018 06:32 PM
Better engine for NA build, b18c1 GSR or b18c5 ITR dannyintegra98 Performance 1 09-05-2018 05:01 PM
OBD2 tach issues after OBD1 Conversion macura2001 Generation Three 1 06-03-2018 08:08 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome