Engine cranks but will NOT start HELP! - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-18-2010, 02:03 AM Thread Starter
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Hi guys, so I did some research on the forum to find out why my dad's 94 RS is not starting but no luck so far, maybe I didn't spend enough time in it. But here it is and I appreciate any input!

Engine turns over but won't start, I checked the battery, starter, ignition coil are all good. I have also replaced the ignition control module and rotor for the distributor. I kinda tested the fuel pump but having my dad turn ignition to on and do hear some noise around the fuel filter. I have also checked if there is spark from the spark plugs and there were though didn't seem very strong sparks but they were there.

So I replaced the spark plugs but they're now blackened, will this affect anything? So I'm thinking about testing if the fuel pump is delivering any fuel at all since when I was cranking the engine, I pressed the gas pedal and nothing seem to happen at all. I remember when the timing was off while I replaced the timing belt, I pressed the gas and I felt the engine was cranking louder though not starting successfully. But I thought having noise when turn the key to on proves that pump is working. Will it be pump is not having sufficient pressure? I'm thinking about testing it and am wondering if you take the banjo bolt off the filter cos it seems pretty snug and hard to unscrew and am not sure if it's supposed to come off. Someone said I can take the fuel line off and crank it see if there is gas that comes out, which line are we talking about exactly? Would this mess up the pressure that's suppose to build up?

And someone in the forum is suggesting it's the ignition but pretty much every is tested working or new except the case itself and there were sparks! Can this rule out distributor?

And how do we test if there is enough compression from the engine? Someone suggested shoving something into the cylinders and crank the engine see if they get popped out but will this cause potential damage the engine?

How likely will this be the timing is off? It's been 4 years since I replaced the timing belt , should I test if the timing is off? Is there an easy way of doing it?

I am thinking about towing the car to pepboys for a diagnosis since i have already drove 200 miles to my dad's and spend my whole weekend when I am supposed to be studying, and still can't fix it. So I'm home again and hopefully I can find out more about what might be wrong and go home one more time for my last try.


Thank you all fore spending time in reading my question!
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-18-2010, 04:43 AM
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ok it sound like its got fuel and spark. does the engine crank over really fast? I would check the compression, use a tester lol i wouldn't jam anything down in the cylinders. If you dont have a compression tester, go to autozone and rent it for free, if you have them in CA. You can check the timing by taking off the valve cover and upper timing belt cover and looking at the cam gear timing marks. Also check the belt to see if it is loose or broken. you might have to rotate the motor over to see the cam gear marks.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-18-2010, 09:33 AM Thread Starter
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engine cranks just as normal, it was slow before but it's because battery was low and now it's charged. Yeah I can rent the test kit from autozone this weekend. So do you think it's normal that when I floor the gas pedal while tryiing to start the car but nothing at all happens? I was expecting a roaring sound from the engine. If I have to test the fuel pump, will I need to remove the Banjo bolt?
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-18-2010, 01:29 PM
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yeah that is normal that nothing happened when you pressed the pedal to the floor. To test the fuel pump, i would also rent a fuel pressure tester. If you car has no fuel pressure then you know the pump is not working correctly. Also check ignition fuses or other fuses.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-19-2010, 05:16 AM
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those two suggestions above are very good!
however it is also possible to have spark from the spark plugs but it not be actually flowing through the wires. i had that same problem. spark plugs blackened? sounds like they filed themselves out. did you gap them correctly?
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-19-2010, 05:30 AM
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Same type of thing happened to me about 2 weeks ago. Changed my battery, coil, cap and rotor to find out all i needed was a simple spark plug change. If you haven't already, change them to brand new ones. They're only like 10 bucks for a nice set of NGK's.

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-19-2010, 05:36 AM
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To check for fuel, listen to see if the fuel pump primes when you turn the key to II. Should sound like a muffled buzz for a couple of seconds. And if you unscrew the banjo bolt from the top of the fuel filter and fuel sprays out thats one sign of fuel as well. Also, check if the plugs are wet with fuel. But really check for simple things like grounds and stuff. The spark should be a blue color indicating it is a strong spark. Good luck, this is a real pain in the ass!
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-19-2010, 08:44 AM Thread Starter
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Oh yeah, the spark plugs were "new" and gapped correctly but they are oily since the valve cover gasket was leaky but I replaced the gasket too. The guy at the shop says even though the spark plugs are blackened and oily, as long as there is spark, it should be no problem to start up.

And I did hear muffled buzz for couple seconds, I also borrowed the fuel pump test kit from AUTOZoNE but was running out of time after reading the instruction and trying to see if I need to take the banjo bolt out.

So I will do as suggested above this weekend. I have already located the ignition fuse relay underneath the steering column last weekend. But if the fuel pump primes, does it rule out the need of testing the fuel relay and the fuel pump ??

And I will replace the spark plugs with a new set of NGK regardless.

How likely you guys think it's the timing being off? I really hate messing with the timing belt. Had a few challenges replacing waterpump and the belts and it's 4 years ago or so already.

Thank you all for the inputs!!
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-19-2010, 10:39 AM
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Could be flooded. Let the car sit for a bit before you try again. The spark plugs should not be black. That indicates a rich condition. Too rich (flooded) and the car won't start.

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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-20-2010, 04:17 AM
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Yeah spark plugs should not be blackened. Mine were blackened and the spark plugs were the reason why they didn't start. I say if you hear your fuel pump prime and smell fuel on your plugs and from your tail pipe right after cranking, that you should rule out fuel. So it must be either spark or air and i'm pretty positive it is spark. Also, check here for tons of information on this: Here
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-20-2010, 10:15 AM
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i'm not sure this will help but i ran into this exact same problem with my brothers xr4ti. engine cranked, got spark, fuel ran through lines but not passing through injectors. the reason was cause the tps went bad and stopped the fuel delivery to the injectors. i havent ran across this problem with a honda motor before so i'm not sure if the fuel delivery systems are similar but it wouldnt hurt to check the injectors to make sure fuel is running it's full course through the system.

just my 2 worth.
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-24-2010, 01:02 AM Thread Starter
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So, the problem has been fixed now. I first check whether the fuel is being delivered by cranking it and turn it off, then I went and loosened up the fuel filter service bolt a little and saw quite a lot of gas leaking out! So that ruled out fuel pump issues including the main relay that I was gonna replace. Then I replaced all the 4 blackened spark plugs and now it starts out no problem!!! So Ben you were right and I probably should have gone with my instinct and replace those 'new' spark plugs. It's always better to start with something cheap and simple and double check everything when the car is being fixed by 2 people cos the other person could be doing something wrong.

Thank you all for your helpful advices!! I really appreciate that!
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-27-2018, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poisonko View Post
Hi guys, so I did some research on the forum to find out why my dad's 94 RS is not starting but no luck so far, maybe I didn't spend enough time in it. But here it is and I appreciate any input!

Engine turns over but won't start, I checked the battery, starter, ignition coil are all good. I have also replaced the ignition control module and rotor for the distributor. I kinda tested the fuel pump but having my dad turn ignition to on and do hear some noise around the fuel filter. I have also checked if there is spark from the spark plugs and there were though didn't seem very strong sparks but they were there.

So I replaced the spark plugs but they're now blackened, will this affect anything? So I'm thinking about testing if the fuel pump is delivering any fuel at all since when I was cranking the engine, I pressed the gas pedal and nothing seem to happen at all. I remember when the timing was off while I replaced the timing belt, I pressed the gas and I felt the engine was cranking louder though not starting successfully. But I thought having noise when turn the key to on proves that pump is working. Will it be pump is not having sufficient pressure? I'm thinking about testing it and am wondering if you take the banjo bolt off the filter cos it seems pretty snug and hard to unscrew and am not sure if it's supposed to come off. Someone said I can take the fuel line off and crank it see if there is gas that comes out, which line are we talking about exactly? Would this mess up the pressure that's suppose to build up?

And someone in the forum is suggesting it's the ignition but pretty much every is tested working or new except the case itself and there were sparks! Can this rule out distributor?

And how do we test if there is enough compression from the engine? Someone suggested shoving something into the cylinders and crank the engine see if they get popped out but will this cause potential damage the engine?

How likely will this be the timing is off? It's been 4 years since I replaced the timing belt , should I test if the timing is off? Is there an easy way of doing it?

I am thinking about towing the car to pepboys for a diagnosis since i have already drove 200 miles to my dad's and spend my whole weekend when I am supposed to be studying, and still can't fix it. So I'm home again and hopefully I can find out more about what might be wrong and go home one more time for my last try.


Thank you all fore spending time in reading my question!
---------------------

My car did the same thing. 99 integra gs b18b1. Change the coolant temp sensor. A main relay would kill the car as its a fuse and does "start failing" on these cars they either work or don't. No in between. If you did the distributor(dont cut corners...change the whole thing and save the good parts in it as it hold many parts to spark the car up) chabged wires and plugs....You changed everything except that sensor. Believe it or not, when this sensor starts going on these cars it will actually not overheat sometimes. It will just refuse to start and crank and you smell fuel and suddenly it starts hours later....once cool....it will start cool but not hot to save the engine and everything. This sensor will actually cause this car to refuse start up. It's 20 bucks....try it...the engine isnt wanting to start when you drive it a while because its hot. Think about it. Worth a try 🙂 I would give the fuel system a great tuneup after this is resolved as your fuel system took a major beating from this. Better safe than sorry 🙂
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-27-2018, 12:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fvb581 View Post
---------------------

My car did the same thing. 99 integra gs b18b1. Change the coolant temp sensor. A main relay would kill the car as its a fuse and does "start failing" on these cars they either work or don't. No in between. If you did the distributor(dont cut corners...change the whole thing and save the good parts in it as it hold many parts to spark the car up) chabged wires and plugs....You changed everything except that sensor. Believe it or not, when this sensor starts going on these cars it will actually not overheat sometimes. It will just refuse to start and crank and you smell fuel and suddenly it starts hours later....once cool....it will start cool but not hot to save the engine and everything. This sensor will actually cause this car to refuse start up. It's 20 bucks....try it...the engine isnt wanting to start when you drive it a while because its hot. Think about it. Worth a try 🙂 I would give the fuel system a great tuneup after this is resolved as your fuel system took a major beating from this. Better safe than sorry 🙂
You just replied to an 8-1/2yr old thread, to a user who hasn't logged on since the same time frame.

I don't believe they're going to reply.
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