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how to prep work before painting car?  
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Message posted by giale123 on Nov/03/09 at 9:13pm - IP Logged
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giale123
GA
Oct/25/09
2000 LS
User ID: 104040
Name: Gia
Last Here
11/20/2009
 
We finally towed back my integra all the way from birmingham AL to covington,GA sunday afternoon.
Yes we left at 6 and came back around 3 ish, since we hanged with my sister and brother. Funny thing is we towed it in my dads f-350...80 dollars worth of diesel gas shot to hell lol.

So ive been staring at my car for days, the paint is peeling/cracking just ugly in some parts.

I want to paint it champion white... and im going to do a maaco paint job, yes i know about their quality please dont criticize me. Money comes hard =/ i heard they just have a lousy job of prep work.

My question is.. What all should i do before prep work/during.

Do i sand the original paint off?
what tools should i use? how do i protect things i want to stay unpainted (windows/trims/seals)

Also i am wondering, on my integra there are these little black side skirts.. can you paint over those?

let me know thanks! =]
Message posted by paller on Nov/03/09 at 9:16pm - IP Logged
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paller
Donated!
Catfishin in, PA
May/02/08
2001 LS
User ID: 88346
Name: Steph
Last Here
11/20/2009
 
Gia..look in the Articles. There are a few on painting and prep work. there are also some good websites for DIY prep and painting. good luck!!

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Message posted by sashakthxx on Nov/03/09 at 9:24pm - IP Logged
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sashakthxx
Toronto, ON
May/30/09
1994 LS
User ID: 101015
Name: Sasha
Last Here
11/20/2009
 
oh man. all i'm gonna say is if you don't know what your doing save up money and let someone else do it while you watch and learn for next time. Otherwise i GURANTEE you will end up paying more fixing what you might have messed up. + you need tools / material. Yes you can paint your side skirts. you can paint your interior too if you want. look at my article. If your repainting the whole car to a different color keep in mind your gonna have to sand down inside the door/side, innerside of the trunk, etc. A good prepper will charge like 120-140 for a good 8 hours of work? think bout it bra! This is in no way to discourage you, but it seems like you want the finsihed product looking good. And if your gonna prep it yourself, they may refuse to paint it if its not properly done.

@skthx
Message posted by Da1witskilz on Nov/03/09 at 9:38pm - IP Logged
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Da1witskilz
Southside, NY
Jan/31/07
1999 LS
User ID: 74474
Name: Andrew
Last Here
11/19/2009
 
Paintwork isn't for the mechanically squeamish. I've been doing light bodywork since I was 16 or 17 when I picked up my first integra shell, and I just finally am willing to paint my car over myself. Sanding a car might sound easy but unless you pay some kind of attention to what you're doing you can drastically affect the quality of the final product. If you are really interested in learning yourself I would recommend starting off with small areas or sections at a time. Doing the front fenders, bumpers, and even the hood are a good way to get an idea of what kind of labor, patience, and skills it'll take to prepare your whole car. As for tools, a couple of different sized sanding blocks, sandpaper ranging from 120-600 grit, a bucket, hose, masking tape, and body filler should be enough to get you started, assuming the car doesn't have any serious damage or rust. Google has a lot of information on how to do bodywork and youtube as well. That's pretty much where I learned a lot of information about proper prep and some bodywork-ing techniques. I will warn you though, bodywork isn't for everything. I know at least 2 people who started to prepare their cars for paint and ended up completing abandoning those projects and either had to pay someone to finish up the work, or just drive their car as is. Even so its worth giving it a try on a small section (preferably something you could easily replace if you do mess up) because when you do the prep yourself and you get it right you can save a lot of money and its a good feeling. Goodluck

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Message posted by Kevinintegra on Nov/03/09 at 10:05pm - IP Logged
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Kevinintegra
Emmett, ID
Oct/19/08
1993 LS
User ID: 94592
Name: Kevin
Last Here
11/20/2009
 
as for protecting you moldings and trims, take them off. seriously if you don't the paint will chip around them and it will piss you off. if you really want to paint you car then go for it, i did. it wasn't that bad but i took it really slow ( six months ) and do it right don't cheap out on paint and don't half ass the body work and im sure it will come out fine. good luck.

1993 black ls 2 dr....work in progress
Message posted by TegTyme on Nov/03/09 at 10:55pm - IP Logged
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TegTyme
N. Cali, CA
Feb/08/06
1997 RS
User ID: 64419
Last Here
11/20/2009
 
Quote: Originally posted by paller on Nov/03/09
Gia..look in the Articles. There are a few on painting and prep work. there are also some good websites for DIY prep and painting. good luck!!



X2

A good place to start

Integra
Message posted by TheMach_5 on Nov/07/09 at 1:58pm - IP Logged
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TheMach_5
MN
Nov/02/09
1994 GSR
User ID: 104189
Last Here
11/20/2009
 
You want to get everything you're painting up to a 400 or 600 grit, but you need to get all the chips and peeling paint edges sanded down and feathered out with a 200 grit or lower before working up to wet-sanding with the 400 and 600 grit. If you don't remove the trim pieces, lighting, and whatever else you don't want painted, you'll have to do a really good job of taping off if you want it to look good. make sure you use a rubber or foam sanding block, don't just use your hand, it won't sand evenly. It takes a lot of time and experience to get it perfect, especially when it comes to using body filler to fill in dents and imperfections. The new paint should stick to the old paint if properly prepped up to 600 grit and if it's perfectly clean of any oils, dust and wax. If you don't know what you're doing, then don't start until you've researched more. Also, the paint will only magnify imperfections in body work, it doesn't cover anything up. The more time you spend on body work and prepping, the better it will turn out. Make sure they're using a good quality paint, otherwise all your efforts and money will go to waste.
Message posted by tattoou83 on Nov/18/09 at 10:15pm - IP Logged
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tattoou83
NC
Nov/05/09
1994 LS
User ID: 104248
Last Here
11/20/2009
 
Well....trying to answer your original question, Yes...the main complaint i have heard with maaco is the prep work. you would want to do all of these things everyone said....keep in mind like sasha sand the inside doors...etc. but as far as pre paint....if you are hell bent on taking it to maaco..plenty of painters tape and garbage bags taped to your wheels...exhaust (make sure its not hot enough to melt or something else to cover it with) they are notorious for painting over glass, exhaust, wheels, and headlights. also slipping the guy who is going to paint it 40 bucks will make sure he takes extra care. you gotta think....its like aMcdonalds of paint places. if you give the guy makin burgers 5 bucks dont u think he would hook you up? also they have an all in one paint. they dont prime then paint then clearcoat....so expect within a few years to need another paint job due to fading.... but if it was my call i would agree with everyone saying to wait until you can afford a better paintjob. even checking local places.....you can get a 3000 dollar paintjob for 1500 if you go local...good luck
Message posted by rportillo89 on Nov/18/09 at 10:23pm - IP Logged
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rportillo89
Donated!
BUFU, IL
Sep/21/06
1996 LS
User ID: 70819
Name: Rene
Last Here
11/20/2009
 
you have a whole lot of reading to do.


try here first.

to summarize:

if you want to do a BASIC paint job.

sand the car to remove the clear coat.

u'll have to wet sand.

then a primer then paint followed by clear.

just tape up whatever u don't want to get painted. simple.

look into it...read a lot and really think about it b4 u start....

best of luck!


- RP

Message posted by lethal-crew on Nov/18/09 at 11:25pm - IP Logged
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lethal-crew
Portland, OR
Jan/19/07
1995 GSR
User ID: 74076
Name: Alex
Last Here
11/20/2009
 
Quote: Originally posted by sashakthxx on Nov/03/09
A good prepper will charge like 120-140 for a good 8 hours of work?


Where the hell can you find a "good" prep guy willing to charge $15 an hour?

1995 Acura Integra DB8
1994 Acura Integra DB7
1991 Acura Integra DA9
2002 Ford F350 CC LB
I have too many vehicles...
Changes To This Post:
» Repaired Quote, Link, or Image by lethal-crew at 11/19/2009 12:07:13 AM
Message posted by A97B18B on Nov/19/09 at 12:16am - IP Logged
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A97B18B
ACURA, VA
Jun/08/04
1997 LS
User ID: 47830
Name: jon
Last Here
11/20/2009
 
I thought you didn't have to primer unless you went down to bare metal??
Message posted by rportillo89 on Nov/19/09 at 12:54am - IP Logged
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rportillo89
Donated!
BUFU, IL
Sep/21/06
1996 LS
User ID: 70819
Name: Rene
Last Here
11/20/2009
 
Quote: Originally posted by A97B18B on Nov/18/09
I thought you didn't have to primer unless you went down to bare metal??



you may be right. i'm not expert, just telling what i know.

it makes sense, what ur saying though...


- RP
Message posted by TegTyme on Nov/19/09 at 1:49am - IP Logged
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TegTyme
N. Cali, CA
Feb/08/06
1997 RS
User ID: 64419
Last Here
11/20/2009
 
Quote: Originally posted by rportillo89 on Nov/18/09
Quote: Originally posted by A97B18B on Nov/18/09I thought you didn't have to primer unless you went down to bare metal??



you may be right. i'm not expert, just telling what i know.

it makes sense, what ur saying though...


- RP



you still have to primer even if you dont go to bare metal. Its so when you shoot color it adheres better. Not only that but primer fills in any imperfections and is a good guide to make sure the surface is in correct form and ready for color.
Message posted by wchea455 on Nov/19/09 at 3:10am - IP Logged
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wchea455
CA
Jan/16/08
User ID: 85038
Last Here
11/20/2009
 
not so good at explaining things but a little summary of what i did

-marked spots that needs to be taken cared of
dents dings etc
-sand with block, those spots down body filler bondo w/e
- looked for hi/low spots on body and continue patiently on that
-strip the trims (careful the tabs break easily)
-start taking clear coat off by sanding(i think this was the hardest part)
-primer/seal
-paint + clear
-buff @_@
all this should be done with absolute patience. if you just rush your prep just to get your paint on there, there will be some major/minor imperfections that WILL piss you off after you get it back painted. btw i had a friend get macco job while i was doing mine, his paintjob came out adequate, but just like everyone says their prep is horrible, really horrible. cant beat that price though if you prep it yourself.
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