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ricreyes
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San Dito, 619, CA Dec/08/03 1996 GSR User ID: 36447 Name: Rikki
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For those who did thier own JDM front conversion, where did you get the spot weld drill bits, and what size did you use? I'm ready to drill out my support to do the t-bar, but I need a bit to save time. A local hardware shop said to just 'tap' the spot using a hole punch/tap and then use a regular drill bit...does that sound right?
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 WWW.TEAMHYBRID.COM JH4DB8 |
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RiceBurnerRebel
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TX Jul/11/05 1999 GSR User ID: 59576 Name: Fred
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11/20/2009 |
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you can do it that way, but a spot weld bit is a bunch easier. try an autoparts store
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94carbonteg
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Needs more $ in, VA Oct/17/07 1994 RS User ID: 82574 Name: Bill
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I would use a spot weld cutter instead of a regular drill bit. It doesnt put a hole in the metal, instead it cuts around the weld so you can pull the piece off that you want and just grind down the remaining weld you cut around down to the frame to get a nice flat surface with no holes. Plus, you can drill each weld in like 10 seconds, its really fast.
This is what you need, I picked mine up at a local tool store.
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MeltMan  |
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Close to, KS Apr/22/02 2000 GSR User ID: 1344 Name: Casey
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LightningTeg 
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<(''<), NJ Oct/09/06 1998 LS User ID: 71342 Name: Chris
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Quote: Originally posted by MeltMan on Nov/17/09
Yep. A spot weld cutter is MUCH better than a drill bit.
Yessir. You'll go through tons of regular drill bits
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rgcme33
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Florence, SC Aug/28/07 1997 LS User ID: 81011 Name: Randall
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11/20/2009 |
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I got mine at Harbor Freight Tools. And you want a 3/8 barrel bit, to cut a little larger than the size of the spot welds. It was 5 dollars, and I wish Id bought two, since it started to get dull after a while. Its a delicate operation to not cut through both sides with these bits though. I cut all the way through about half the welds I was drilling just because I had to use a lot of pressure to get it to cut, and once it started, it zipped right through both layers of sheet metal, leaving a hole, lol. basically the bit is supposed to cut a hole around the weld on the top layer of sheet metal, but not the bottom, so either youre left with raised slugs that must be ground off. or you drill right through and the slug drops free.
THIS ONE
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rgcme33
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Florence, SC Aug/28/07 1997 LS User ID: 81011 Name: Randall
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Quote: Originally posted by ricreyes on Nov/18/09
Correct me if i'm wrong, but if you did happen to drill through, leaving a hole, would'nt it be covered by the new piece your'e welding on' I might be confused. How much time did the cutter save? I'm doing a t-bar, so i'm hoping to not spend too much time drilling 
Yes, and none. I imagine a regular drill bit would suffice. Took about a minute or less per weld.
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MeltMan |
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Close to, KS Apr/22/02 2000 GSR User ID: 1344 Name: Casey
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*** Removed by user at Nov 20 2009 4:43PM (Server Time) ***
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MeltMan |
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Close to, KS Apr/22/02 2000 GSR User ID: 1344 Name: Casey
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*** Removed by user at Nov 20 2009 4:43PM (Server Time) ***
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rgcme33
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Florence, SC Aug/28/07 1997 LS User ID: 81011 Name: Randall
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You coulda had it off in the time it took to make this thread. Did mine in an apartmrnt parking lot, alone, in freezing weather, and it took about 30 mins to actually cut the welds for the t-bar. For 21$ a got a 9$ corded drill, 3/8 barrel spot weld cutter and a 4 pack of 3/8 generic cheap drill bits at harbor freight. Both bits and cutter worked well, recommend either. Didnt take long at all. Sometimes cutter cut through both sides bc it cut so damn well.
You should have this done by now. Run!
I wasn't converting only repairing but same/similar procedure.
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Changes To This Post: » Added Additional Post Text by rgcme33 at 11/20/2009 4:18:52 PM » Added Additional Post Text by rgcme33 at 11/20/2009 4:14:10 PM |
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rgcme33
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Florence, SC Aug/28/07 1997 LS User ID: 81011 Name: Randall
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Btw I thoroughly answered all of your questions in posts 6 and 8.
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