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daily
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WA Mar/28/05 1997 GSR User ID: 56736
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2/17/2008 |
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>this is a guide that can be used to remove the ABS system on a 94-97 gen3 integra. it by no means includes every bit of information needed to remove the system, and i in no way take responsibility for anything becoming of the information in this guide. the ABS system is a safety device, and i would advise anyone to do thier research before deciding to remove it.
>why remove the ABS system?..
some dont like it, some need space in their engine bay, some do it for the
28lbs of weight reduction, and some may do it for cosmetic reasons.
here is a diagram of the RS brake system
>what is needed?...
i would highly recommend a helms manual. it is an invaluble tool and is a nessecity for anyone wishing to do their own work on thier integra.
1)most importantly, a honda 40/40 prop valve. this distributes the brake fluid from the master cylinder to all four wheels. on the abs tegs (all except for RS) there is no prop valve because the abs motor distributes the brake fluid. these can be bought new from acura, or sometimes found used. this is what the prop valve looks like:
and this is what's in place of it on an abs teg:
2)the RS brake lines. the lines to the rear brakes are the same, but all front lines need to be replaced. these can be ordered new from acura, and ran me about $60 shipped. i ordered the lines from www.acuracarland.com and the part numbers are: 46360-SR3-A02 , 46321-ST7-A00 , 46320-ST7-A00 , 46310-ST7-A00 . these lines can be seen in the diagram above.
this is where i ran into some problems. the fitting for the brake hardline on the passenger's side of the master cylinder is larger than all of the other brakeline fittings. aparently, on the RS the fitting is the same size, so the new line will have the smaller fitting, which will not fit into the brake mc. what i did was purchase a double inverted flaring tool and cut both lines (new and old) at the mc end. i then slid the larger fitting onto the new line and flared the end with the flaring tool. this line will have to be bent to fit properly, but it isnt difficult.
this is the brake mc with the new line cut and refitted onto the left side
3)special tools.. there are a couple tools needed in additon to the regular socket set and screwdrivers. a 10mm flare nut wrench is imparative. this will be used on all the brake line fittings. do not use a regular wrench, it will damage the fittings. the double inverted flaring tool will also be needed, unless another method of adapting the correct fitting is used.
>removal guide
-start by draining all the brake fluid. i emptied it where the brake hardlines connect to the soft lines in each front wheel well and pumping the brake pedal.
the hole where the rubber plug used to be is where the line comes out of the bay, and the seran wrap is covering the intersection of the harline to the softline.
-i then removed the ABS pump/motor. begin by removing all the lines going into the motor, then remove it's bracketing and pull the beast out. all the wiring simply unclips from their connections.
this is where the motor used to be, and the small black fusebox behind it can be removed as well.
-now the daunting task of removing all the hardlines. this by far encompassed more time than any other part of the removal. find a point to start and just begin unbolting. the airbox, battery, feul filter, and various other things will need to be removed out of the way. alot of the plastic clips holding the lines together are a bitch to get undone. take your time, dont get pissed, and take every line and bracket out. anything attached to the lines such as little valves will need to be removed. the only brake lines that will stay are the lines from the rear that come up the middle of the firewall together. make sure not to remove the feul or clutch fluid lines.
>installation
-bolt the prop valve to the firewall. there is already a space for it to fit in perfectly from the sideways H shaped valve removed with the old lines.
-start by attacthing the rear brake lines to the prop valve. the rear line on the right will go to the top right side of the prop valve and the rear line on the left will go on the bottom right side of the valve.
-the left front brake line will attach to the top left fitting closest to the firewall
-the right front brake line will attach to the bottom left fitting closest to the firewall
-the driver's side mc fitting will attach to the bottom left fitting farthest from the firewall
-finally, the passenger's side mc fitting will attach to the top left fitting farthest from the firewall. the line may need to be recut/bent/adjusted a few times before finally slipping the larger fitting on and flaring the end of the line.
-fill the resevoir on the mc and bleed the brakes using the normal procedure. heres the article
-check all the fittings for leaks and any other safety steps. take it for a close drive then re-check all the fittings.
allright well that about outlines the removal of the abs pump and fitting of the new hardlines and prop valves. i will add the removal of the computer and sensors when i have some more time. remember, this is only a guide and not a step by step. it is very hard to find any of this information, especially how the lines are alligned on the prop valve. hope this helps for all the people who have been asking. this portion will take a good 3 hours, +or- depending on how fast you are and how fast you can get the lines in and out. more to come -ryan
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check it son, my car domain |
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Changes To This Post: » Added Additional Post Text by daily at 9/18/2005 2:49:15 PM |
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kelly 
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Jul/19/02 1999 GSR User ID: 4948 Name: Kelly
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1/13/2010 |
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The '98 and newer are different and do have a proportioning valve. I recently removed the ABS on my '99. I needed the RS proportioning valve, the front lines, and the lines from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve (all from '99 RS). I also bought (4) 25mm blind plugs and (2) 7mm blind plugs (grommet section) to plug the holes left from removing the sensors.
Carland listed that the #18 bracket was different on the RS, so I ordered it. It doesn't fit, nor does the GS-R one (both too short). This is not a big deal as the lines are well supported. Carland also listed another clip as being different, but the difference was only that it was black instead of white. It looks better black. I had to study the Carland diagrams and then reference the car to figure this all out. It took me quite a while, so just a heads up for those doing the same.
The clip attached to the fuel filter bracket bolt is removed, and I found it necessary to put a washer in its place.
Thanks for your work, daily.
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Nam Myoho Renge Kyo
National Motorists Association |
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daily
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WA Mar/28/05 1997 GSR User ID: 56736
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2/17/2008 |
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yes i forgot to mention that the 98+ have a different abs system. i don't know much about it except that it is smaller. thanks though, i added that to the original post. after removing the sensor brackets i've noticed some rust where it was in the rear lca's. i havent checked the other bolt holes, but will do so when i get a chance. plugging the holes left by the missing bolts or painting them would be a good idea to prevent rust. i'll be looking into it. i removed the abs a few months ago so the explination isn't as comprehensive as it could be.
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kelly
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Jul/19/02 1999 GSR User ID: 4948 Name: Kelly
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1/13/2010 |
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I used the 7mm plugs to plug the holes left in the spare tire area from removing the clips that hold the wire harness. I painted the holes in the control arms and put the bolts back in where the sensors in the front were bolted to the body. I was more worried about rust forming in the bolt holes on the body rather than the control arms.
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hpflyingteg
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Louisville, KY Nov/22/02 1995 LS User ID: 12274 Name: Justin
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2/1/2010 |
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Do you know anything about the electronics of the ABS?
I'm looking for a signal wire that gives a constant 12 volt signal, only when the ABS is engaged. I've got a little safety project that could be implemented in new cars, and this is all I need. Otherwise I'll keep looking.
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Flying J
Click for my website >Facebook Me< |
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kelly
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Jul/19/02 1999 GSR User ID: 4948 Name: Kelly
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Last Here
1/13/2010 |
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On the '98+ models, the pump motor runs when the ABS is engaged. I had a light hooked up to this wire to tell me when the ABS was engaged. The motor tests out every time the car is started and then driven over 5 mph, and this also functions to test out the light.
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DC4KiD
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Oakland, CA May/03/04 1996 SE User ID: 45837 Name: Mark
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2/9/2010 |
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w00t! Thanks for the guide! Now I can finally remove my POS non-working ABS system!
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www.S Y T F U.com
2.0L B18C5 Full-Race T3/T67H.O. |
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hpflyingteg
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Louisville, KY Nov/22/02 1995 LS User ID: 12274 Name: Justin
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2/1/2010 |
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Quote: Originally posted by kelly on Sep/20/05
On the '98+ models, the pump motor runs when the ABS is engaged. I had a light hooked up to this wire to tell me when the ABS was engaged. The motor tests out every time the car is started and then driven over 5 mph, and this also functions to test out the light.
Sweet. If I make any money off this I will remember you.
Shouldn't the older models also have the pump run as well?
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kelly
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Jul/19/02 1999 GSR User ID: 4948 Name: Kelly
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1/13/2010 |
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More than likely. I haven't studied ABS workings for a while and don't have time to refresh myself. It is easy enough to find out.
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REDTEGTypeLS
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Lake Ariel, PA Oct/13/05 1994 LS User ID: 61743 Name: Ryne
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5/20/2009 |
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I just removed my ABS unit and Im looking for a proportioning valve, but my question is about the new brake lines daily said he purchased for the swap. Are the brake lines on an ABS integra the same size (diameter) and also same size fittings as a non abs model? I know there are more bends and lines on an ABS model. but is it possable to reuse the brake lines from an ABS model but just cut and bend them to size to use for this swap?
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1994 Acura Integra LS
Now White |
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daily
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WA Mar/28/05 1997 GSR User ID: 56736
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Last Here
2/17/2008 |
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you could cut/rebend/reflair the existing brake lines. you'd need a flaring tool like the one that i mentioned. i know for my gsr the one brake fitting on the mc was larger as it states above. i dont know if this is true for the ls. other than that the fittings are the same size.
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REDTEGTypeLS
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Lake Ariel, PA Oct/13/05 1994 LS User ID: 61743 Name: Ryne
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5/20/2009 |
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Thanks Daily for that info. I figured I could just reuse em. Its hard enough to find a Prop Valve at a yard around here let alone brake lines. Is there a "mm" size i need to re flare the lines to? What I mean is what size is the flare...ya know what Im saying? lol And Im pretty sure Ill have to do the same thing you did to that line connecting to the MC cause it looks larger than all the other fittings. Thanks for the help again.
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DC4KiD
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Oakland, CA May/03/04 1996 SE User ID: 45837 Name: Mark
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2/9/2010 |
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Daily, I have a question to ask you.
Do you think it's possible to use the existing brake lines instead of buying new ones? (Reusing as in bending the old lines to fit)
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Changes To This Post: » Added Additional Post Text by DC4KiD at 12/1/2005 2:17:15 AM |
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Edz_integra
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Wangan, CA Jan/18/03 1998 GSR User ID: 15469 Name: Edward
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6/25/2009 |
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Quote: Originally posted by DC4KiD on Nov/30/05
Daily, I have a question to ask you.
Do you think it's possible to use the existing brake lines instead of buying new ones? (Reusing as in bending the old lines to fit)
Hey mark,
to help daily out with this one. I wouldnt recommend rebending your abs lines, just for the simple fact that they are pretty long. You will understand once you pull them out. I just recently did this myself and to purchase the four lines that you need is not expensive. I think I paid $65 for all of them. Plus, I bought an RS master cylinder and brake booster from a friend for 100. If you do it properly, w/o making your own parts, you will spend close to $200. Now, that is really cheap if you ask me.
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