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Blox IM install notes   of 2
Team Integra Forums  ::  Performance
Message posted by TheGSRGuy on Apr/23/06 at 1:34pm - IP Logged
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TheGSRGuy
Donated!
Chicago, IL
Apr/01/02
User ID: 1090
Name: Dan
Last Here
2/8/2010
 
Well after 14 hours we finished the installation of a Blox intake manifold into my GS-R. Why did it take 14 hours? Well, we didn't have any real directions to work off of, and there were a few snags we hit. I thought I'd write a quick thread up so that others can see what went wrong and how to avoid it.

How it drives
I was originally on the fence, thinking I'd be sacrificing drivability since the new manifold would be more for top-end power. However, after driving it, I can say that there is basically no difference when driving around town. It doesn't feel sluggish, and I don't need to rev any higher to get moving.

It is interesting to wait at 5800rpm for that IAB system to flip the extra runners open.....and hear nothing. There's just the 4400rpm VTEC cam lobe switch, and then it just wails.

Also, there is no "whistle" that everyone complains about. I don't know why people complain about that, but my car sounds exactly the same at idle or WOT. Perhaps my Icebox is hiding the sound?


The install
14 hours. We started at 8am and finished around 9pm. We did stop for lunch and had to make a few trips to get random parts. I'm pretty certain that if I had to do it again I could do it in 6 or less.

What took the longest? Removing the old manifold. Specifically, there is a bracket that holds the IM to the engine block. The bolts are VERY difficult to reach, and were seized in there. It took us a good two hours to get those four bolts out with a variety of extensions and sockets. There is no shortcut to this, but it makes it easier to be under the car with someone up top guiding your socket onto the bolts.

The second longest part of it was getting the old gasket off the head. We spent a good 2 hours on this as well with gasket scrapers until we took a chance on aircraft remover. Any auto parts store has it for about $8/can. We sprayed it on a rag, wiped down the intake ports on the head, and had a beer. Wait about 10 minutes and the old gasket will literally peel off. Aircraft remover is a carcinogen so be very careful working with it. I don't advise spraying it on the ports directly.


Misc install notes
Some other things worth mentioning on the install: vacuum lines. You will need to buy a T-fitting and combine the PCV and EVAP purge solenoid lines into the one large nipple on the front of the IM. There's a smaller one near the back that will need to be plugged off.

The EVAP purge solenoid will not have a mounting location. We opted to wire tie it down and out of the way.

You can keep your GS-R throttle cable. It will stick up and look funny, but it does work. I'll be installing the ITR one later this week.

You will need to plug a small coolant line near the main coolant nipple on the bottom of the IM. We took a short hose, shoved a bolt in it, and covered it with RTV/liquid gasket. No leaks as of yet.

You can keep the factory studs, even with the thick Hondata gasket. The nuts will not thread on quite as far, but they thread far enough to securely hold the IM.


So there you have it. I'm now running a Blox single-runner intake manifold on my GS-R. Good luck to those of you who plan on doing this install. It takes some time, but hopefully these notes will make things easier for you.

Cheers.

Now: 2005 Audi S4
Before: 1999 GS-R coupe
Message posted by Vi3tB0i7o7 on Apr/23/06 at 2:31pm - IP Logged
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Vi3tB0i7o7
510/707, CA
Sep/15/03
1995 LS
User ID: 31546
Name: Vi
Last Here
3/28/2009
 
good write up. i will be bookmarking this page for future use.

-seven0seven say it backw0rds!

DC Squad Member # 0477

SYNDICATE
Message posted by TheGSRGuy on Apr/25/06 at 1:11am - IP Logged
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TheGSRGuy
Donated!
Chicago, IL
Apr/01/02
User ID: 1090
Name: Dan
Last Here
2/8/2010
 
Thought I'd add an update.

Buy some extra coolant/vacuum lines. The stock PCV lines and coolant lines can be cleaned up and made to look much neater if you just cut some new hoses.

Driveability is kinda weird -- there's this rather odd dip in power between 4000 and 5000rpm. I'm thinking that tuning could get rid of this.

There's a really wicked sound you get from 5000 to 6000rpm. You can replicate it on the GS-R manifold by unplugging the vacuum line to the IAB diaphragm.

If you do get the new ITR throttle cable, the install will look 100x better since you'll now be able to utilize the last two bolt holes. Just make sure you adjust the cable correctly.

You MUST get the ITR throttle cable if you want to retain a strut tower brace.
Changes To This Post:
» Added Additional Post Text by TheGSRGuy at 4/25/2006 1:17:08 AM
Message posted by MeltMan on Apr/25/06 at 1:30am - IP Logged
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MeltMan
Donated!
Close to, KS
Apr/22/02
2000 GSR
User ID: 1344
Name: Casey
Last Here
2/9/2010
 
Did you seal the TB to the manifold with RTV sealant?

My SK2 definately did whistle - loudly until I replaced the OEM paper gasket with some RTV red gasket maker. It still whistles very quietly, but not near as bad as before.

I may try sealing it again, just to get rid of the whistle completely.

Melt's 2000 GSR
Melt's Daily Driver 96 LS
Melt's Project DA
Meltman's Auto to 5-Speed Build and Swap Thread
Message posted by TheGSRGuy on Apr/25/06 at 1:31am - IP Logged
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TheGSRGuy
Donated!
Chicago, IL
Apr/01/02
User ID: 1090
Name: Dan
Last Here
2/8/2010
 
Nope, didn't need to. I'm using the OEM gasket and it works just fine.

If that sound is the so-called "whistle", it's not really a big deal.
Message posted by funnahguy on Apr/25/06 at 1:33am - IP Logged
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funnahguy
Leesburg, VA
Jun/13/05
1996 GSR
User ID: 58964
Name: Carl
Last Here
10/28/2009
 
any butt dyno results?

Message posted by TheGSRGuy on Apr/25/06 at 1:35am - IP Logged
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TheGSRGuy
Donated!
Chicago, IL
Apr/01/02
User ID: 1090
Name: Dan
Last Here
2/8/2010
 
It's not a huge difference -- i.e. there's no huge surge of power now, but if I had to venture a guess, I'd say it's like the OEM manifold opening up a bit earlier. I'm planning on tuning this summer so I guess that will be the best indicator.
Message posted by cpdude on Apr/25/06 at 1:50am - IP Logged
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cpdude
 
Oct/15/03
1997 RS
User ID: 33405
Last Here
12/26/2008
 
Its funny I just put one on my ls and it sounds like it has the same charatistics. I was able to put two extensions together and get to the bottom bolts from the top which was a lot easier. I know the gsr mani is different so this might not work. I am a bit worried about smog with the evac teed into the pcv valve hose. It just makes it a bit more odvious its modified.

RIP Karina Lau causalty of war. My buddy, Ill miss you.
Message posted by rojjGSR on Apr/25/06 at 2:07am - IP Logged
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rojjGSR
VA
Feb/22/06
1994 GSR
User ID: 64762
Last Here
6/24/2008
 
Do you have any pics of it installed or your process?? I would like to see them. What do you mean by you dont hear a difference at 5800rpm??


Everything happens for a reason....
Thanx to Skwatoe for the sig- that guys got skillz....
Message posted by b000stedTEG on Apr/25/06 at 2:21am - IP Logged
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b000stedTEG
Mesa, AZ
Sep/22/03
1994 RS
User ID: 32059
Name: Colin
Last Here
12/20/2007
 
In case anyone else is interested they can use GSRguy's experiences and also use this HT article. Maybe we can get an article of this detail on TI.

Here is the link.

Blox IM Thread for install on 95GSR
Message posted by b18c1mien on Jul/25/06 at 3:06pm - IP Logged
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b18c1mien
mien village, CA
Feb/01/06
2000 GSR
User ID: 64198
Last Here
2/9/2010
 
wut year is ur teg???? should there be any differences on the obd2?? or should it be the same?

If YouR LifE i5 n0t Fa5t En0UgH, DoWn 5HiFt.
Message posted by TheGSRGuy on Jul/25/06 at 3:47pm - IP Logged
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TheGSRGuy
Donated!
Chicago, IL
Apr/01/02
User ID: 1090
Name: Dan
Last Here
2/8/2010
 
My Integra is a 1999...it says right under my username if you had looked.

OBD1 (94 & 95) will have a slightly different sensor arrangement but it's still very intuitive....sensors really can only mount to one place.
Message posted by 95VTeg on Feb/15/07 at 7:05pm - IP Logged
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95VTeg
NY
Apr/04/06
1995 GSR
User ID: 65837
Last Here
11/12/2009
 
Well I would like to bring this thread back instead of starting another one. I received my Blox IM the other day for my 95 GSR.

According to Dan the EVAP and PCV line should be combined and connected to the larger nipple on the front of the manifold and the smaller one should be blocked. My Blox manifold has a small and larger niple on the front and another small one on the back. My EVAP line fits on the small nipple so why would there be a need to combine it with the PCV line? This is how I plan to hook it up. The FPR and EVAP vacuum line each have there own small nipple to hook up to and the PCV line will be extended and connected to the larger nipple on the front.

After reading this thread I just had some concern since I was unable to understand the reason for combining the two lines and plugging the one when it doesn't seem necessary. If someone can confirm as to what goes where it would be a big help.
Message posted by WINGER01 on Apr/12/07 at 8:20pm - IP Logged
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WINGER01
Saint John, NB
May/18/06
1999 GSR
User ID: 67075
Name: Greg
Last Here
4/19/2009
 
I can totally relate to your experince.. awsome topic..I should have mine done by tomorrow. It has taken me about 9 hours in the course of 3 days . To busy to work all through the day. and that metal bracket under the IM is a pain to take off.lol

If you dont like the way I drive, then stay off the side walk.
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