G3 Brake Master Cylinder Install - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
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G3 Brake Master Cylinder Install

Posted 05-13-2004 at 02:25 PM by wupike21

Article Text by wupike21
Work done by wupike21, TurboLS, brautzen, and racinGSRstyle

(How many TI'ers does it take to change a BMC?)

If your Integra is having trouble keeping brake pressure on your brakes, and you have tried bleeding them to get any air out of the lines, your master cylinder is probably out of commission (or getting close to out of commission). My pedal was slowly sinking to the floor at stop lights on mild days; I knew the problem would only get worse as it got warmer out.

This install is rather easy; I completed this in about an hour. It’s best to have a buddy with you to pump the brakes when needed (bleeding).

Tools Needed:
- 12mm Socket
- 5/8” Ratchet (1/4” helpful)
- 10mm Wrench
- 12mm Wrench
- 1/4” ID Tubing
- Bottle for Brake Fluid

Materials Needed:
- New Master Cylinder - $120 remanufactured
- New Brake Fluid - $20

Step One: Jack Up the Car.

Using a jack and stands, jack up all four points of the car.

Step Two: Bleed the Brake Lines Dry.

Following jared’s Brake Bleeding article, bleed the brakes dry. Do not add any fluid; we need the lines clear so brake fluid doesn’t get all over the place when we remove the bad master cylinder. Make sure that the reservoir is mostly dry.

Step Three: Removing the Reservoir.

After the reservoir is pretty much empty (you won’t be able to get every last drop out), you need to take it off. The reservoir is re-used so don’t throw this away. Use a 12mm socket to loosen the clamp. (this is where if you have a 1/4" ratchet, it's a lot easier...)

Step Four: Removing the Brake Lines.

Using a 12mm wrench, remove the two metal brake lines from the cylinder.

Step Five: Removing the Master Cylinder.

Using a 12mm ratchet, remove the two nuts holding the reservoir to the firewall. The master cylinder should be easily removed after this.

Clean the area with mineral spirits or simple green, etc…

Step Six: Replacing the Master Cylinder.

This step is the same as the above 3 but in reverse order. Reattach the master cylinder to the firewall and tighten down the nuts. Then reattach the brake lines to the cylinder. Then reattach the reservoir.

Step Seven: Bleeding the Brakes.

Start by filling up the reservoir, then following jared’s Brake Bleeding article re-bleed the brakes. After all is done, put your wheels back on, and go test your brakes out. (preferably not on a public road or high traffic area.)

**Note: You MUST bench bleed your new master cylinder with the kit that should be included with you're new cylinder. Bench bleeding is the only way to remove air trapped in a new cylinder, you can spend hours trying to bleed it normally and still have a spongy pedal if you skip this step.. If for whatever reason you're cylinder did not include a bleeding kit you can purchase them from most automotive stores. The kit should include two plastic fittings that screw into the cylinder and two lengths of rubber tubing that you loop back into the reservoir. Install the cylinder without attaching the brake lines, attach the bleeding kit, fill the reservoir, and pump the pedal until no more bubbles/frothy fluid appear in the reservoir, then finish installing the cylinder and bleed it normally.**-Br1t1shguy

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  1. Old Comment
    Thank you! I ordered a new master cylinder from the internet. when to local auto store and got brake fluids. followed the steps above. Now my brake are working great! thanks for posting this!
    Posted 11-29-2013 at 10:19 AM by dutnuea dutnuea is offline
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