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How to install a clutch on a G3 Integra

Posted 02-28-2004 at 04:51 PM by vitamin_d

This article is a demonstration on how to install a clutch on a 3rd generation Integra. If you are not a die hard Do-It-Yourselfer, than this project is not for you. Installing a clutch is challenging, time consuming, costly, sometimes unpredictable and should not be attempted by a novice who does not have a fair amount of knowledge regarding cars.*

Here is what we will be installing on my 1995 Integra non-Vtec B18B1 LS: ACT Heavy Duty pressure plate, ACT Performance Street Disc, and Integra Type-R Flywheel.







Before attempting this project, I recommend that you have a Helms manual by your side first. This article that I've written is very informative, however the Helms manual is still the ultimate guide. Think of this article more of a reference than a replacement. If you donít own a Helms manual and something happens goes wrong, you'll regret not having one. You can purchase the Acura Integra Helms manual directly from their website at http://www.helminc.com.

Now that you got your Helms manual, there is still one more thing I must emphasize on: The need of tools and a garage. Make no mistake about it,* you will need both. Installing a clutch without the right tools will leave you extremely handicapped and possibly unable to do this project. Furthermore, installing a clutch in a place with limited amount of work space will leave your ability to do the job limited.

Please review the tools, parts, and materials needed to do this project.

Tools:[*]Jack + Jack-stands[*]8, 10, 12, 14, 17, 19, and 32mm regular sockets[*]14 and 17mm deep sockets[*]14 and 17mm 12pt sockets[*]Multiple socket wrenches of various lengths/sizes[*]Multiple socket wrench extensions[*]Various metric combination wrenches[*]Large Breaking bar[*]Torque Wrench[*]Needle Nose and Regular Pliers[*]Philips and Flathead screwdrivers[*]Hammer[*]Rubber Mallet[*]Chisels and punches[*]Wire brush (optional)[*]Ball joint remover (optional)[*]Impact gun (optional)[/list]
Parts:[*]Pressure plate[*]Clutch Disc[*]Flywheel[*]Release bearing[*]Flywheel bearing[*]1 Spindle Nut[*]Transmission seals (optional)[*]Exhaust gaskets (optional)[*]2 Cotter Pins (optional)[/list]
Materials:[*]Helms Manual[*]WD-40[*]High temp Wheel Bearing grease[*]Lots of zip lock baggies[*]Scotch tape[*]Black marker pen[*]Safety goggles[/list]

Let the games begin! Before we begin, I recommend that every nut/bolt you remove from the engine compartment be categorized. The easist solution is to put them in zip lock baggies labeled where they came from. There will be a lot of stuff that you will have to remove to get to your clutch. If you choose not to label your parts, during reinstallation you will be confused what goes where. Trust me.


1) Disconnect the battery; negative first, positive last.

2) Drain the manual transmission fluid.

3) Remove the air intake.

4) Disconnect the back up switch connector and tranny ground.





5) Remove the lower radiator hose clamp from the tranny hanger.



6) Remove the wire harness clamps on the tranny.
[GSR: The bolt is a 10mm]



7) Disconnect the starter motor cables and the vehicle speed sensor (vss) connector.

8) Dismount the clutch slave cylinder.



9) Remove the three top tranny bolts and the lower starter bolt. They are a little tough to see because of all the radiator hoses and stuff in the way.







10) Remove the engine splash shield. It is the piece of plastic that connects to bottom of the bumper and frame. All it takes is a few plastic screw clips to remove. It allows you access to the A-pipe.

11) Disconnect the A-pipe (the bottom portion of the header) and remove the 02 sensor(s). The exhaust nuts and bolts may be difficult to remove because of the corrosion built up on the threads and the extreme amount of heat they have endured of the years. Don't be surprised if they come out fighting.









A-pipe removed.


Tip: To avoid possible exhaust leaks after reinstallation, it may be a good decision to replace the gaskets on the A-pipe and at the catalytic converter.

12) Separate the lower ball joints from both the driver and passenger side LCAs. With your needle nose pliers, remove the cotter pins and then move on to the 17mm castle nuts. If the cotter pins are damaged or no longer straight, replace them.



Tip: If the ball joints are stuck and you do not have a ball joint remover, screw the castle nut back on the stud to where it is flush with the end and then use your jack to raise up on it. The weight of the car will break the stud free of the LCA.

13) Remove the driver and passenger side damper (shock) forks.



Damper fork removed.


Tip: If the damper fork doesn't seem to want to let go of the shock, grab your rubber mallet and tap on the side of it as you pull downward.

14) Remove the passenger side driveshaft (driver side is optional) and the intermediate shaft. * A) First start off by removing the passenger side spindle nut. To do so, you must first raise the locking tab (the bent section of the nut) up in order to let the nut spin free using a chisel and hammer. Next have your friend now get in the car and hold down the brakes as you attempt to break the nut free with the largest breaking bar you have. The spindle nut is torqued down very tightly and it has endured years of corrosion, so donít be surprised if it very difficult to break loose. If handy, you may want to use an impact wrench.



* B) In order to remove the passenger side driveshaft, it has to be pried apart from the tranny. Grab the largest flathead screw driver available, stick it in back of the driveshaft inboard joint and then pry it out using the tranny as a fulcrum point. While doing this, it will be best to have a friend help you by holding the wheel hub up and away from the vehicle.





* C) On the driver side of the vehicle, separate the driveshaft from the intermediate shaft by striking the inboard joint using a rubber mallet. It may be difficult because of the disadvantage of swinging at it while underneath the car, so you may want to become creative and try to pry it off as well.



* D) Next unbolt the intermediate shaft using a 14mm socket wrench. The intermediate shaft should then slide out of the tranny as easy as can be.



* Caution: Be careful not to pull on the driveshafts nor let them hang freely. Doing so may cause the inboard joint to come apart. If you decide not to remove the driver side driveshaft completely (remember it is optional), be sure to have something supporting it. Also, once the driveshafts and the intermediate shaft are separated from the tranny, place a plastic baggy over the ends of them as protection from dirt and debris.





Tip: Since the driveshafts are removed from the transmission, it might be a good idea to replace your driveshaft seals. If you would like too, grab a large socket, stick it inside the seal, and then simply plop it out. If that doesn't work, you can always resort to using a flathead screw driver. Just be careful not to damage anything.



15) Remove the heat shield. (B18C1 engine only) * 16) Disconnect the change extension.



* 17) Disconnect the change rod. First, pull back the boot and then remove the clip underneath and then tap out the spring pin using a 8mm punch.



* Tip: If for any reason you have difficulty removing the change extension and/or change rod at the tranny, you** can remove them at the shifter its self. However, keep in mind that when the tranny is being dropped/reinstalled, those two things are coming with it. They may present another obstacle for you. * 18) Remove the engine stiffener(s). On the LS there is only one, the GSR has two. [B18C1 specific stiffener has 1 12mm and 2 8mm bolts to remove]



* 19) Remove the clutch cover. [On GSR clutch cover, the 17mm bolt is not there]

*

Clutch cover removed.



20) Remove the passenger side lower tranny mount and bracket.





* 21) Next place a jack underneath the transmission and then something to help support the engine.



* 22) Remove the passenger side upper tranny mount.



* 23) Remove the rear lower mount bracket bolts and transmission mounting bolt. [GSR: There's a 17mm tranny mounting bolt at the front and rear]





* 24) Remove the transmission by slowly backing it away from the engine (towards the passenger side fender) then carefully lower the jack dropping the tranny out of the engine bay once it has cleared the mainshaft.





* Tip: At this point it would be most helpful to have at least three people (you and two of your friends) doing this step. One person should be operating the jack, another physically guiding the tranny with their hands, and another visually making sure the tranny free of any things in its way. Team work is the best method to accomplish this step successfully. 25) Remove the pressure plate, clutch disc and flywheel.
A) To remove the pressure plate, you must use a 12pt 14mm socket. Once the pressure plate is removed, the clutch disc will come out behind it [On some models (GSR, RS, etc) the pressure plate may be held on by a 10mm bolts instead of 14mm]



B) To remove the flywheel, you must use a 12pt 17mm socket.



Caution: If you are going to reuse your stock pressure plate and/or flywheel, unbolt them in a crisscross pattern in several steps to prevent warping. Unbolting the pressure plate and flywheel in a random order could damage them.

Tip: For easiest removal and installation of the clutch, install a ring gear holder to disable anything from turning as you work. This will also keep the main shaft aligned with transmission so reinstallation will be simpler. 26) Replace the flywheel bearing.
A) Using a socket with the same diameter as the flywheel bearing, gently tap it out.



B) Inspect the flywheel bearing for any damage. If it does not turn smoothly, quietly, or fit tightly in the flywheel, replace it.

C) Reinstall the new flywheel bearing gently with the same socket as before or with a rubber mallet. Once reinstalled in the flywheel, check it again to make sure no damage occurred. 27) Reinstallation of flywheel, clutch disc, and pressure plate.
A) Start by installing the flywheel first (assuming it has already been resurfaced). Torque the flywheel mounting bolts in a crisscross pattern in several steps to prevent warping. For example each bolt is torqued to 76lbf-ft, so if you were to do this in four steps, start off with 19lbf-ft, then 38lbf-ft, then 57lbf-ft, and then finally finishing off with 76lbf-ft.



B) Now make sure the contact surface of flywheel is completely clean of all oily substances (including your finger prints) before proceeding. Grease the splines on the clutch disc and then install the clutch alignment tool. Slide the new clutch disc on followed by the pressure plate behind it. Using the same torque methods as the flywheel, torque the mounting bolts of the pressure plate in a crisscross pattern in several steps to prevent warping (see bolt pattern below). Factory specs calls for 19lbf-ft torque, so if you were also to do this in four steps, start off with ~4.75lbf-ft, then ~9.5lbf-ft, then ~14.25lbf-ft, and then finally finishing off with 19lbf-ft.

Tip: Applying threadlocker to these bolts is recomended.


28) Replacing the release bearing (throw out bearing).
A) Start off by removing the release fork boot from the clutch housing. Then remove the release fork by squeezing the set spring with pliers.



B) Slide off the release bearing and then check it for play by spinning it by hand. If it is no good, then replace it.

C) Now re-grease everything that the release fork and bearing comes in contact with also including the transmission shaft. The Helms manual recommends you use super high temp grease.
29) Reinstall everything. Basically, just follow this article in reverse procedure now. Here are some useful tips that may help the reinstallation process go easier. 1. Most of the bolts you remove will have build up on them. Because of that build up, some of them may be difficult to tighten down all the way. I'd recommend taking a wire brush to all your bolts to remove the crap on the threads. Taking a few minutes to clean every bolt really does make things go a little easier.

2. Before reinstalling the driveshafts back into the hubs, take some WD40 and clean the rust out off the inside of the hub as well as on the output end of the driveshaft (the part going into the hub--not tranny). The corrosion and build up will make the output driveshaft difficult to reinstall inside the hub just the same as it was to remove it. Also once the surfaces are somewhat clean, put some wheel bearing grease (or even some more WD40 if you'd like) on the output driveshaft. It should slide right in now, pain free.

3. When installing a part, make sure to get every nut and bolt on it before tightening any of them down. If you don't, usually the last bolt won't want to go in as easy as the rest, and, in most cases, the holes for the bolt to travel through will not be aligned. It is usually one mistake that everyone is guilty of and overlooks when doing a project.
4. Once everything is finished, take a few minutes and double check everything that you've touched. This is a big project so it is easy to accidentally miss something small. Make sure all connectors and bolts are installed before you jump in and drive off in your car. If the engine happens to be acting strangely after this project, most likely you forgot to plug something in.

5. Most clutch manufacturers require a bare minimum of a 500 mile city driven break-in (that means stop 'n go traffic, not highway driving) before going WOT. Refer to your manufacturer for their specific mileage break-in. I know you will be excited that you've just got your new clutch in and you want to see what it can do, but I strongly advise that you keep the RPMs down (no higher than 4,000rpms) and allow the clutch to fully break-in. If you instantly go out and start mashing on the gas, the lifespan of your clutch will be decreased and unexpected problems may surface in the future. If you would like more information on this subject, please conduct a search.

6. When reinstalling the upper and lower tranny mounts, torque the bolts and nuts that attach to the tranny first, then the ones that go to the frame or through the bushing. Failure to do so may cause odd noises and vibrations or premature bushing failure.

7.Any time you are tightening a steel bolt into aluminum, using anti-seize compound on the threads is recomended. It makes the next time you try to remove that bolt easier!

Torque specs for reinstallation (all in ft/lbs):
10mm tranny ground: 16
10mm tranny wire harness: 7
starter motor cable: 6.5
12mm clutch slave cylinder: 7
14mm clutch slave cylinder: 16
17mm top tranny: 47
14mm starter bolt: 33
17mm castle nuts: 36-43(any point cotter pin will install)
14mm damper fork: 32
17mm damper fork: 47
32mm spindle nut: 134
14mm intermediate shaft mounting bolts: 28
10mm b18c1 heat shield: 7
14mm change extension: 16
12mm b18c1 stiffener: 42
8mm b18c1 stiffener: 17
14mm engine stiffener: 17
17mm engine stiffener: 42
12mm clutch cover: 9
14mm clutch cover: 17
17mm clutch cover: 42
17mm lower tranny mount bracket: 61
14mm lower tranny mount bracket: 33
17mm top tranny mount nuts: 47
17mm top tranny mount bolt into tranny: 47
17mm top tranny mount bolt through bushing: 54
19mm rear lower mount bracket: 87
17mm lower tranny mounting: 47


**** Special thanks to TI member Himoto for all the GSR differences he added to this article. Also for tip number 6 and 7 plus all the toque specs above. ****



Good luck and may the force be with you!

Have any specific questions regarding this article? Please ask them in this thread. Thank you.
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