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Spare Tire Sub Box

Posted 02-23-2002 at 01:00 AM by MorningZ

The following article is a how-to on maximizing the amount of airspace for a sub enclosure, i was able to get 3.75 cubic feet out of this area with only raising the height of the floor by 3 inches



To save my sanity from a zillion messages, here's some quick questions and answers:
Q: Where do i get the supplies at?
A: The good stuff is at any paint store or boat repair shops

Q: Can I buy the stuff from _______ instead?
A: I don't see why not, but all I can do is recommend what i used

Q: How much should I expect to spend in supplies?
A: There's many factors involved (mainly where you go and where you live), so I couldn't tell you exactly.. I think we used about $80 worth of stuff, but that's a super rough estimate

Q: Can I do something like shown in this article AND keep my spare tire?
A: Absolutely!! but this article shows an example of using the spare tire for space, so I never even scoped out other configurations/situations



Understand that the wood "frame" is just that, a frame... you can use any shape or height, but it will provide us with a flat and level top lip to be able to mount a secure and sturdy top baffle




Now for this particular project we used just the duct tape as a release agent. After the first layer dries, its pretty tough to pull up/out the box, but that is just you fighting the sticking power of duct tape....

Other suggestions for release agent (and all I mean is something in between the first layer of glass and the metal of the car, you WANT the enclosure to be removable) include:
- Aluminum foil
- Wax Paper
- Vaseline
- There's tons of other things that'll work!



The part around the spare tire mount is left unglassed so that later on in the project, we glass a piece of wood with a hole cut in it, so that we can secure the whole enclosure using the factory bolt, it works very very well! (there'e a sneak peak of later in the article)




At this point, let it dry for a few hours at least (if i remember right, we let it dry for 4-5 hours). Then its time to pull up the enclosure, use careful, but firm pressure to get the box out, the tape will make it difficult, but it will release














18 pounds of cat not included :-)




Doing the top piece is easy, simply lay the fiberglass box face down on a sheet of MDF and trace it out

If you are doing a sealed enclosure, its all right to seal/secure the top baffle now, but we still needed to mount the port on the inside, so we secure it later




To seal it the best it can be, we laid down a generous bead of Elmer's Wood Glue before securing it with brad nails (not shown)






Here's the enclosure all complete with the rest of the system done, all this equipment and hardly lost any trunk space!

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