How to Install Torque Mounts - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
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How to Install Torque Mounts

Posted 01-06-2004 at 02:52 PM by justYncredible

Tools needed:
- Jack
- Jack stands
- 17mm deep socket
- 19mm socket
- Silicon grease
- Breaker bar
- Socket wrench
- Extension bar for socket wrench, the length has to be at least 12inches
- 2x4 piece of wood
- Phillips screw driver
- Honda power steering fluid
- Oil catch can

If you have access to air tools:
- Impact wrench
- Socket wrench
These tools will make the job quicker and less of a strain.

For more info on how to jack your car off the ground please visit this article from MorningZ. Also for info on what causes wheel hop please view this article. Well lets get started shall we!!!

Once the car is in the air you want to locate the mounts. (My car has the energy suspension inserts which I am now replacing with mounts.) The passenger side mount is located in this area next to the transmission

And the driver side is located here, next to the A/C compressor

Step 1: Taking off passenger side mount and replacing with new Tools: Breaker bar, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, Bar extension for socket wrench, New mount

Remove the two bolts that are in yellow and unloosen the bolt that is in red

This is where you'll need to use a breaker bar. The bolts tend to be on pretty tight.

Once you have the two yellow bolts removed and the red unloosen. Take out the nut that holds the mount. You will need a 19mm socket and the breaker bar.

Once it is out, remove these two bolts, using 14mm deep socket sockets and be carefull because the arm will swing and it could cause injury if you're in the way.

You should have something like this hanging.

Now this is the easy part. Sorry I don't have a picture for this step. On the JimFab mounts take the polyurethane insert out and lubricate with the silicon gel. The passenger side needs the smaller mount which looks like this.

Install the mount with the washer on before the nut. Everything from here is just reverse from uninstall.

And make sure the 19mm nut is tight, but do not over tighten. It may seem like its not getting tighter but the insert will act like rubber which will allow you to keep on tightening it.

Step 2: Replacing Driver Side Mount Tools: Jack, 2x4, Breaker bar, 10mm, 14mm, 14mm Deep Socket, 7mm, 19mm, Phillips, Bar extension for socket, Wrench, New mount

Unscrew the splash for more space so you can unscrew some of the bolts needed. Once you have that out of the way, unscrew the 19mm nut that holds the mount located here.

Once that is done remove these two 14mm bolts in red.

Next, place the jack with the 2x4 on top under the oil pan and if you have an oil catch pan you will need that also.

Remove the following: Top motor mounts bolts all three bolts and they all are 14mm use a deep socket, breaker bar and for the power steering hose use the 10mm socket.

Once the power steering hose is out of the way the fluid will start coming out of the pump that is why you need the oil catch can to get the fluid from dripping everywhere.

Next lower the jack slowly, your motor should drop at an angle. NOTE: The motor will not fall out from the car literally. Also if the motor does not drop raise the jack up some to pick up the motor and redo again. If that doesn't work put the jack about a half inch under the motor and give the motor a few whacks (from the head) and it should drop

Once it drop, slide the old mount off and replace it with this mount, but have the bigger in facing towards the motor.

From here everything is pretty much the reverse of uninstalling the mount and the same as the install of the passenger mount. If you're lost on how to get your motor back into the mount. Just simply jack the motor back up from the oil pan and it'll go right back in place. Once you have the bolts back in there places check your work. Your mounts should look like this once installed

Reinstall the splash shield and once again check your work.

Summary of mounts from Energy Suspension to Jimfab:
I have experience with both types of mounts, both the inserts and the replacement mount. The only advantage the ES would have over Jimfab would be there is less vibration you feel threw the car while idling. I'm not saying Jimfab mounts have a rowdy idle vibration threw out the car but it kind of feels like the A/C is running. After awhile you get use to it and you don't notice it anymore. Alot of people say they have vibration issues once they replace the lower torque mounts or add inserts. Most of the time this happens because the rear mount is ripped. Replacing the rear mount will lessen the vibration from the motor to the vehicle. Replacing the rear mount is quite important to the transmission. If the rear mount is ripped this can cause improper shift which in result can cause damage to the gear(s) or synchro(s).

ES did eliminate wheel hop.
With the Jimfab mounts, there was no wheel hop and it was quite difficult to peel out while shifting from 1st to 2nd, which is a good thing. From what I have noticed you lose power from a peel out between gears. Since these mounts eliminated that problem your car is putting down the right amount of power and it is not losing it threw gears.

Any questions or comments or maybe you found something I left out on accident please private message me. Thank you and enjoy!!

The JimFab mounts can be purchased at for $65 with shipping.
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  1. Old Comment
    Is that link dead? It just brings me to a gray page with Jimfab at the top with nothing else at all.
    Posted 05-10-2012 at 04:26 PM by Visceron Visceron is offline
  2. Old Comment
    Just did the front lower (left) mount yesterday, you definitely do not need to disconnect the power steering hose and lose fluid to get access. What I did is unbolt the bracket that tie the hose to the valve cover (the 10mm socket one) and then use a 14mm deep socket with an extension and a ratchet, and slide them between the valve cover and the hose to access the bolt.
    Posted 11-12-2014 at 04:45 PM by PandaBear PandaBear is offline
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