Rear Camber Washer Trick - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
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Rear Camber Washer Trick

Posted 05-15-2003 at 08:33 AM by eXstasy

07/05/03 UPDATE: If you are choosing to replace the OEM bolts, you may want to look up bolt specifications in order to make sure that the grade of your bolts at least is the same as or better than OEM. Thank TI member kelly for this update.

Information about Bolt Grades
Metric Bolt Specs
Grade Identification Markings

06/12/03 UPDATE: I changed my suspension setup on my car, and when I did, I removed some washers because it was overcorrecting my camber. I found out that the lengthened bolts do not fit easily or sometimes not at all in one of the holes on each side. DO NOT attempt to force a bolt in if it does not fit. Some items in the article have been changed.

The "washer trick" is a simple and inexpensive mod that allows you to correct negative camber on the rear wheels without the use of a camber kit. Once you know the parts and tools that you need, the process becomes straightforward.
[*]Floor Jack[*]Jack Stands[*]Wheel Removal Tools[*]14mm Metric Socket, Ratchet, and Extension[*]Depending on the amount of camber adjustment needed, 4 to 12 - 3/8" Washers[*]If you are only using 2 washers behind each bolt in order to space out the arm, the STOCK bolts will suffice just fine.[/b] If you absolutely must have longer bolts, purchase shorter ones than the ones I originally used. I had 4 M10x40 Hex Flange Bolts Pitch 1.25. Try to find bolts with no threads at the tip, similar to the stock bolt. Otherwise, get one the same length as stock (M10x30 - 30 mm long).[*]People have also recommended the use of Loctite Thread on the bolts, as the suspension is susceptible to a lot of jarring and jolting. I used some Teflon Tape I had lying around

I purchased my washers and bolts at Orchard Supply Hardware. These are the old ones, which I found to be too long for use with only 2 washers.

First, jack up the rear of your car and support it on jack stands. Use your jack to support the LCA in order to relieve stress on the upper arm; not necessary but suggested, as it will make your next task easier. Loosen the bottom bolt, the one closer to the front of the car, but don't remove it. Next, remove the upper bolt completely, the one towards the back of the car.
Slide the washers BEHIND the assembly, in order to space it out from the body of the car. The amount of washers varies depending on the amount of camber you want to correct. If you cannot fit the washers behind the assembly, then you have not loosened the other bolt enough.

My car was dropped 2.5"-3" on my current setup, which induced a great amount of negative camber. I used 3 washers behind each bolt to correct this.

My car is now currently dropped around 2.25" on Neuspeed Race springs. 2 washers behind each bolt to correct rear negative camber. STOCK bolts are being used.

This picture shows the length of the new 40mm bolt compared to the old one. The bolt has Teflon tape on it. There is plenty of room to fit extra washers in there.

I recommend the STOCK bolt for up to 2 washers. A new bolt of size M10x30 should also work well, because they are normally threaded all the way up to the tip.

Tighten the bolt and then repeat the process with the last bolt. Here is a picture of both bolts replaced on my car. There are 3 washers behind each bolt.

Remount the tire and then lower your car. I simply disengaged the e-brake and let my car roll a bit, which allowed my suspension to settle. Someone also suggested driving around the block for a bit. Either eye ball the amount of camber you have corrected or measure it in order to see if it is now within your desired range. For more precision, use a level or a camber measurement tool if you have one. If the camber is not within your desired range, redo the same side before proceeding to the other.

This is a picture of my wheel with corrected camber. Before I performed this mod, I was able to easily slide my hand upwards under the fender and into the wheel well from the surface of the tire. After the mod, I am no longer able to, and even the stock size tire comes close to rubbing the unrolled fender lip.
Of course, I advise buying a real camber kit if you intend on frequently adjusting your ride height and/or camber. After all is said and done, you should take your car to get an alignment in order to get the actual values on your car. Generally, you want to make sure that it falls within stock specs. For the rear tires, stock camber is anywhere from -2.0 to 0.0 degrees. With 0 degrees of camber, your tires will last longer but you will take a hit in performance.

- eXstasy

Additional suggestions welcomed
Thanks to white_rice, kelly, and all TI members
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