JB Weld for spoiler holes/body work - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-15-2011, 06:26 PM Thread Starter
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Hey guys, I just was introduced this new product (JB WELD, link here) and was wondering if this is a cheap and good alternative to my spoiler hole problem?

I know this isnt the best place to be asking, but I am sure some people might have some insight.

My trunk has the following layout

|:.:|


| --> indicates the trunk-quarterpanel border
. --> electrical hole for brake light in spoiler
: --> Dual drill holes for holding the spoiler down.

Now, the electrical hole (.) has very small amounts of clearance underneath (due to the interior panels being in the way) and the spoiler mounting holes ( are easily accessible when you open the trunk.

If I want to use jb-weld, would I just apply it to both sides and sand/primer/standard painting procedures afterwards?

Im also going to maybe take it to get painted after I get it nicely flush, or I might just do it myself (if matching frost white isnt too difficult)

INPUT APPRECIATED!
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-15-2011, 06:29 PM
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-15-2011, 06:31 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlangy on Feb/15/11
Why not use something that's made for the job you're doing like bondo?

i was told

jbweld >>> fiberglass > bondo

supposedly bondo settles after a while, and I want something that is the very best! I dont really want a temp fix, but let me know if bondo is actually the best/easiest way to go


EDIT: also, isnt bondo just a filler? There is no base underneath and it would just sink through...?
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-15-2011, 06:32 PM
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^^^This. Use Bondo, not J.B. Weld to fill in your holes. Also, it isn't exactly a new product (maybe new to you). It's been around since the mid 60's.





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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-15-2011, 06:33 PM
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I would not recommend filling those holes with just bondo as it will crack eventually. The best method is obviously welding them shut. If that is not an option I would epoxy a piece of metal behind the holes with automotive grade epoxy then level the hole with the rest of the panel by using bodo. The bondo will then only be as thick as the trunk metal and will be more restistant to cracking. Make sure to scuff all surfaces that you will be applying bondo to with sandpaper.

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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-15-2011, 06:34 PM
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Use bondo. The only "permanent" solution is welding metal over the holes, sanding that down, then repainting and it sounds like you're looking for a much less expensive/labor intensive route. Those holes are so tiny and the amount of bondo you'll be using is so small, that it will make almost zero difference over the life of the car.
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-15-2011, 06:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sebTeggy on Feb/15/11
Quote: tlangy on Feb/15/11Why not use something that's made for the job you're doing like bondo?


i was told

jbweld >>> fiberglass > bondo

supposedly bondo settles after a while, and I want something that is the very best! I dont really want a temp fix, but let me know if bondo is actually the best/easiest way to go


EDIT: also, isnt bondo just a filler? There is no base underneath and it would just sink through...?
If there's no base underneath,why would you use JB anyways? JB is like syrup and would just run through. Use fiberglass for the bottom base and use the JB or bondo to fill it in.
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-15-2011, 06:55 PM
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Honestly your not going to find a "cheap and good" alternative. If you want it to be permanent, strip the paint and take it to someone to weld it. End of story.

Mike
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-15-2011, 07:00 PM
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Yes you can use JB weld, it works great. Just make sure to put some small metal piece underneath like Mike said.
Mix the JB weld and wait for it to harden just a little bit so you can work with it better without it being too goopy.
Fill in the hole from the top until it is a bit higher then everything around it. Let it sit for 24 hrs then you can sand it down level and paint it.
Dont fill in holes like that with just bondo, not a good idea.

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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-15-2011, 07:48 PM
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Magnum steel is awesome! You could try that. Its a tough stick of hard putty that you knead together and then it hardens.



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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-15-2011, 08:08 PM
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I might be doing the same thing this year op. I think the best approach is to scruff up the inside of the trunk, which can be reached by removing the bezel and through some large holes, and a square piece, and let it sit. If possible, maybe even cut out a circular piece and jbweld that in, thus needing only a really tiny portion of bondo to fill the cracks and smooth out the top
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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-15-2011, 08:55 PM
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I used some fiberglass matting, resin, and bondo to fill some spoiler holes from a double-decker ricer wing. Worked out fine and that was 4 years ago. No cracking, no blemish. Can't even tell it was there.

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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-15-2011, 09:17 PM
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Actually the proper way would be welding / grinding / bondo / sanding / bondo / sanding / primer / sanding / paint lol.

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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-15-2011, 09:33 PM
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You can use fiberglass filler, which is like a stronger version of bondo, to fill the hole and create a base. Afterwords a small bit of bondo or putty can be used to level the surface and prepare it for primer. Fiberglass filler is waterproof so you don't have to worry about the repair rusting as long as the metal you're attaching it to is clean. From what I hear, fiberglass filler can be used to fill holes up to 1/2 inch round safely. I've used the regular bondo body filler on some crazy repairs that involved cracks and holes in plastic body panels and once the repairs were done the bondo held up even when a bumper got ripped in 2 so I wouldn't worry about it failing on a low stress application.
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