Running Log: MorningZ's GSR (Major cooling issue: page 461) - Page 461 - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
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post #6441 of 6459 (permalink) Old 09-20-2016, 02:16 PM
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Is that a piece of copper wire sticking through the hole to show its location?

My FS thread

95 EJ1 Milano RIP/died/sold -> 98 DB7 CSM RIP/totalled -> 97 DB7 CSM Awful. Sold it back. -> 01 DB8 YR525M RIP/totalled -> 06 Civic LX <log offsite>

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post #6442 of 6459 (permalink) Old 09-22-2016, 01:46 PM Thread Starter
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After figuring out I put the skunk2 cam gears in wrong (had no instructions/direction, and I guessed wrong) and also discovering that the AEM FPR diaphragm developed a hole as detailed above), she is up and running!




Tomorrow i'll get it the rest of the way together (re-run brake ducts, wheels, etc), find somewhere to break in the rings, and i'll try to get some miles on it before bringing it to John @ phearabe.net for a tuning appt next Friday

ViR/ITR-Expo here I come in a month!



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- Running Log, the trials and tribulations of building a car

echlonwarrior: "Hondabond saves lives"
K2sInteg98: "the best thing to do is keep spending and not keep count....lol"
dpaton: "The road to hell is paved with good intentions"

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post #6443 of 6459 (permalink) Old 09-22-2016, 01:52 PM
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That's sweet! It sounds as if it's running smooth.





770whp/500wtq @31psi E85


2013 Carlisle P&S 1st Place Acura Integra Class Winner
2011 Carlisle P&S 1st Place Acura Integra Class Winner

2010 Carlisle P&S 1st Place Acura Class Winner
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Click Me: Check Out My Build Thread - From Stock to 770WHP
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post #6444 of 6459 (permalink) Old 09-22-2016, 02:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjkz24 View Post
That's sweet! It sounds as if it's running smooth.
thats exactly what i was going to say. sounds like its running nice and smooth.

1996 DB8 Bought 2003--->Sold 2010--->Bought Back May 2014 Restoration in Process!!
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post #6445 of 6459 (permalink) Old 09-25-2016, 12:23 AM Thread Starter
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So actually drove the car today to get the rings settled in.... did the drive hard in 2nd gear and let the engine brake the car thing.... seems good/strong

No leaks, no drips, no weird noises, it just works

I do have CEL light and i couldn't seem to get the trick to read the code right.... going to try some more tomorrow....









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post #6446 of 6459 (permalink) Old 09-25-2016, 10:31 AM
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Where did the "drive hard in 2nd gear and let the engine brake the car" break-in come from? Never heard of that one.
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post #6447 of 6459 (permalink) Old 09-25-2016, 11:38 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MorningZ View Post
This is the break in procedure recommended to me: (anything to add to this?)

- unplug the ECU and spark plugs and crank the car over for a minute to build oil pressure
- check the oil
- plug the ECU in keep radiator cap off and start it
- When running put top off antifreeze in then when put cap back on, 70/30 mix, let it run for 20 min then shut off car and let the engine cool down for 30 min
- check fluids again
- Try not to hit boost, maybe drive it with supercharger belt off, accelerate slowly and decelerate in gear, this loads the rings when you decelerate in gear which is important
- So accelerate and decelerate it 10 times and then go home and let it cool down for 30 min and your done
- Just take it easy on the clutch for the first 300 miles and you’re done
- With forged pistons you always want to let the engine warm up before driving
.
this was the sequence i followed from last build
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post #6448 of 6459 (permalink) Old 09-25-2016, 08:25 PM Thread Starter
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So adventurous day with the car, but resolved.


had the good ol' CEL light on, was having issue getting the code pulled (jump service connector, turn car to ON), talked to John who tuned the car, he said "have the car running, then jump the connector", sure enough that worked!

So i was throwing Code 10 (IAT) and Code 14 (IACV)... the IACV is practically brand new, there was zero chance it was bad, but looking/thinking about it, those two connectors have the same exact plug and are located near each other, so I thought "must be swapped"

I had a hell of a time finding good solid and correct info on what the colors should be for each plug, came up empty. Even the Helms didn't have matching colors.

So i ended up just swapping the plugs, resetting the ECU and trying it. No CEL *but* the IAT temp showing on my TunerView was up over 250 degrees with the car not warmed up.. that certainly isn't right, so I thought: "must have had it right then"

I put them back the way they were, reset the ECU, solid CEL light again, this time noticing that the IAT temps on the TunerView were way high again.

That led me to think: "plugs are wrong, and the IACV plug (which Paton told me a little while ago is 12v) must have burned up the IAT sensor (which he said was looking for 5v)" with me just not noticing the IAT temps the first time

So I ran down to the nearby O'Reily's, picked up a new IAT for $30, had the plugs right this time and no CELs and was just showing 104 degrees at the intake, so the car = all good!

Gotta get a few miles on her, change the oil out for the first time, get the bumper on and i am all ready to go for Friday.

I was super frustrated all day dealing with this, I'm ecstatic that it's solved


.
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post #6449 of 6459 (permalink) Old 09-28-2016, 11:34 AM Thread Starter
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Next major show-stopping issue: i can't keep ECT temps to where they should be (180-190)... idling for 20 mins, i get into the mid 210's


Older parts:
- radiator
- temp sensor on thermostat housing
- temp sensor on side of head


Brand new parts:
- head gasket
- o-rings for the coolant tube
- radiator cap
- water pump gasket


Kinda new parts (mainly replaced last build, like what, 500 miles ago?)
- thermostat
- radiator hoses
- water pump


Removed things:
- thermostat


Other notes:
- OEM fans come on fine, and are blowing the right direction
- before I even pulled out the thermostat, which may have been partially stuck closed (but doubtful), the lower radiator hose did get hot, meaning coolant was flowing
- I have no leaks, no drips going on
- Verified, multiple times now, that the brand new head gasket was put on properly
- I've lost count of the # of times i've tried to bleed the system over past 3 days


Process to diagnose/try-to-fix:
- After i got the fuel issues ironed out, went to take it for a drive a few days ago, ECT's were showing 222 on my TunerView, on the stock gauge in cluster, the needle was a little higher than where i know it should be, but it wasn't even to 1/2 way yet.. but i know i can't trust that reading too much

- Put the Lisle funnel in place, let car idle and idle and idle and idle to try to get all the air out of it.. didn't work

- As per suggestion from member mtber: jacked up car, pulled the plug for the fans, took the rad cap off and started it up with the heat on full blast. he said let it get to 225 and turn the car off. things got pretty violent from the radiator cap opening, like a geyser, the goal was to expunge all the air, if any, in the coolant system... didn't work

- Pulled out the thermostat and put just the gasket in place and put that area back together.... dud't work

- Replaced the radiator cap.... didn't work


I've got the leakdown kit that I "rented" from AutoZone to try next, but I'm hoping someone has something else to check that doesn't mean doom for my engine build.

Any ideas are appreciated!

My frustration level with this:


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Last edited by MorningZ; 09-28-2016 at 12:21 PM.
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post #6450 of 6459 (permalink) Old 09-30-2016, 04:23 PM Thread Starter
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My next thing to attempt:



I was all gung ho about getting it in today and trying it out, but it's been a rough week, I'm going to kick back for the rest of the day and get on it tomorrow
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post #6451 of 6459 (permalink) Old 09-30-2016, 04:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MorningZ View Post
My next thing to attempt:







I was all gung ho about getting it in today and trying it out, but it's been a rough week, I'm going to kick back for the rest of the day and get on it tomorrow


Nice! Where'd you get that and how much did it set you back?


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post #6452 of 6459 (permalink) Old 09-30-2016, 04:30 PM Thread Starter
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Amazon for $197 + i paid the extra $13 to have it delivered in one day

Something I really didn't want to buy, and to be honest, I don't really think it's going to help... but screw it lol
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post #6453 of 6459 (permalink) Old 10-10-2016, 11:42 AM Thread Starter
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Current car status: still not running

So @atkinsonar came over last Monday and helped me first diagnose and then we started to take apart the car

Obvious coolant and oil mix... there was why i was overheating.. all signs point to bad head gasket (which was an OEM part I got off eBay) or bad install of said head gasket

Picked up another one from Real Street on Weds morning, this time a Golden Eagle one, which is just a stock gasket that has the cylinder holes enlarged.

@Jeffaome and I reassembled the engine yesterday, but I still can't get the car to run, here is what has been done so far:

- Quadrupled checked that the all plugs from the engine harness are plugged in and correct
- Crank pulley and cams all set at top dead center
- I've got fuel pressure and circulation (i know this because once again the o-ring on the FPR didn't get lined up on install and i was spewing gas everywhere, is fixed now)
- I've got spark (at least on Cylinder 1 confirmed by using timing light)
- All sensors plugged in
- Fuse is fine for the Fuel Injection circuit
- Master relay is fine (i hear the fuel pump fire up)
- No leaks, no drips, no nothing

Car turns over, sounds like it's got solid compression (I've unfortunately learned the hard way what "not good compression" sounds like).

I'm really not sure where to go from here, it's all been so damned frustrating

ITR Expo is in 9 days, it doesn't look like I'm going to make it




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post #6454 of 6459 (permalink) Old 10-10-2016, 07:44 PM
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Is there any way that the distributor timing is 180 off such that the spark is near the wrong TDC?. I can't think of anything else if cam timing is correct, spark is present, and fuel is present. Perhaps injectors not firing would keep it from running. Do you smell unburned fuel or are the spark plugs wet?

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