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blandsarcasm's incredibly slow and boring gsr k24 build

38K views 296 replies 34 participants last post by  blandsarcasm 
#1 ·
Current Condition
01 GSR nh-623m satin silver
Koni/ Ground Control with extended top hats
Function 7 lca's
ASR subframe brace and 24mm swaybar.
Tanabe Touring Medalion catback
k tuned pro circuit shifter
oem window visors
spoon rearview glass
aem short ram

Most Recent Pic

IMG_1316 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

**********************************************

Whats up Team-Integra?! Ive been quietly lurking around here for a couple years now so i finally decided to post something. Ive been into hondas since i first got my liscense many years ago haha. Im 31 now and other than my first car being a ford (terrible pos that fell apart and only owned for a few months before it lit on fire) all ive owned are hondas. My first 99 hatch was extremely good to me and carried me to work, school, and all over for almost 300k miles before i finally sold it to a friend. After that i picked up an 03 em2 but that poor thing didnt last very long

IMG_0146 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_0147 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

Wasnt my fault i swear! Absolutely nothing i could do to avoid being pancaked, luckily i came out with only a stiff neck. I wasnt too bummed about the car cause i was pretty over it after i had to replace the head gasket immediately after purchasing it. Plus it just wasnt even as fun do drive as my old ek. I had my heart set on a dc2 for a while but didnt have any luck finding one when i purchased the em2. once i got the check from the girls insurance who demolished my car i was determined that i wouldnt settle for anything but a clean gsr! I spent a few weeks not having my own car to get to work and stuff, and driving all over the place to look at a bunch of garbage. My girl and I even drove a total of 12 hours to pittsburgh and back to look at what seemed to be a mint gsr with crazy low miles, but turned out to be a pile of rusty crap. Finally i came across a guy in jersey with what quickly became my new baby. Aside from the initials someone carved in the front bumper, a cracked windshield, and every stereotypical riced out mod from 2002 you could think of, the shell was pretty clean. It had no rust whatsoever, and the interior was mint black leather yum. I wish i had taken photos of the thing the day i bought it cause it was actually pretty hilarious. It had crap halo projectors, altezza style tails, peeling and bent chrome 17" motegi wheels on stock suspension, and a skunk 2 megapower 70mm exhaust cannon haha. Luckily the guy kept all the original oem pieces he replaced in boxes in his garage since like 2002 so they were all mint! First thing i did was grab a koni/gc setup threw some tires on the blades, and settled her down to a much better stance. It felt perfect on the twisty roads i drive everyday. So much fun.

IMG_9893 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_9888 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

The black one in the pic is my girlfriends, which we got insanely lucky and found about six months or so after i got mine. Hers was in better shape than mine when she bought it, and it was black, which is the color i originally wanted myself. I was pretty jealous... untill this happened

IMG_0637 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_0638 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

She got sideswiped one night on her way home from eating with friends and the person got away. My girl was so freaked out that she just pulled over and let them get away without even getting a plate number or anything. Insurance did nothing about it, and the cops tried to cite her for multiple violations when she was the victim. I found a couple fenders and a pair of doors off some guy on craigslist and replaced the busted panels but the colors dont match perfectly and it has yet to be repainted. Oh well. Still looks pretty clean though.
Anyways back to me. I got pretty sick of listening to the skunk2 mega fart cannon pretty quickly so i picked up a Tanabe Touring Medalion. Anyone looking for a quiet smooth clean sounding 60mm full stainless exhaust, look no further. I also slapped on an ASR subframe brace and 24mm sway bar because i had to see what kind of a difference it made. The change in balance is crazy compared to the stock sway. I also grabbed a k tuned pro circuit shifter to replace the garbage ebay shifter arm the previous owner "installed". i use that term lightly here because it was so sloppy even in gear that it rattled back and forth like crazy at all times. The k tuned piece plus energy suspension bushings were a night and day change. so solid and crisp. Plus the design of the shifter allowed me to adjust the height way up close to the wheel while still shortening the throw. Pretty well made and bling looking piece. Ordered some oem window visors and a spoon rearview mirror glass from icbmotorsports.com to round out the mods at that point.

IMG_9769 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_0931 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_0927 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_0917 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_9755 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_9763 by evan mclaren, on Flickr
 
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13
#2 ·
random pic of my gf's gsr the day we brought it home...

IMG_9861 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_9859 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

bone stock and so fresh at the time. Anyways... didnt make too much progress as far as modifications go for a little bit. Randomly decided to rip out the interior one day and fix the mess of chopped wires that was my audio system.

IMG_0512 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

for some reason the previous owner felt it necessary to chop the factory stereo harness to spice in a head unit and of course it was a complete hack job. So i tackled the task of running wire from the head out to the doors throught the molex plug using the walkthrough i found on this site. That was hell and thank god someone took the time to make that writeup or i wouldve never been able to do that.
From the time i bought the car the motor had burned oil and at this point was only seeming to get worse so i knew eventually i was gonna be forced to rebuild. tossed around the options of an oem rebuild vs beefed up internals all motor high compression vs boost vs straight itr swap vs k swap. At first i was just leaning towards an oem rebuild to keep it reliable but then i started figuring if it was gonna get torn apart might as well take advantage of the oportunity to make some more power. Just kinda stewed on it for a bit while empty oil jugs continued to pile up in my garage haha. Randomly one day came across a great deal on a header so i scooped it up figuring if i ever was looking to make more power it would be useful

IMG_0634 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_0725 (1) by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_0800 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_0802 by evan mclaren, on Flickr
 
#4 · (Edited)
Skunk2 megapower header for $100 bucks didnt seem like a bad deal to me. Bought a test pipe and replaced the cracked and crusty factory manifold. Threw it on and went for a test drive and besides the leaky test pipe not being welded yet, the thing sounded mean. The very next morning on my drive to work as i was just cruising along at about 35mph the motor started misfiring randomly at first then went into full blown 3 cylinder mode. The damn thing was shaking and sounded like a freakin subaru haha but it didnt die. Since i didnt really have a choice, i limped it 20 miles to work and again home later that day. On my way home i made a pit stop at the shop a good friend of mine works at and did a compression test. Results were 200 psi across the board with the exception of #2 which was at flat 0 :frown:. I chugged the poor thing home and its been parked in my garage ever since. I knew for a while that the motor was hurting, and i can only assume the addition of the header somehow played a role in its demise. Maybe it somehow caused the primary 02 sensor to read some wacky values and it leaned out causing the piston to melt a hole in it or something. Or maybe one of the rings just finally gave out completely. idk maybe someone on here with more knowledge than myself can wager a guess. I have yet to rip the motor out and crack it open so i wont know true extent of the damage until i do. But it does still fire right up everytime and run on 3 as long as the batt has some charge left from sitting too long.
Left without a running car for a couple weeks, and refusing to sell the shell off as it sits, i snagged up a daily...


IMG_9390 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_9391 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

A bone stock 98 ej8 with just over 100k on the clock and a few small battle scars. first thing to go on that was an oem sir lip from icbmotorsports.com, and after a few months morphed into this...

IMG_2151 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_2154 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

Gathered up some fancy trinkets for it...

image1 (1) by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_0393 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_0740 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_0105 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_0026 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_9809 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_9756 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_9538 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_9891 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_9763 (2) by evan mclaren, on Flickr


Aaaaaannnnndddddd.................
































one of these!

IMG_9494 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_9501 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

and one of these!

IMG_9474 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_9471 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

06 tsx k24a2 and 08 fa5 6sp trans both with ~70k miles.

For a while i had been reading up what it takes to swap a k into a dc chassis and seeing the far greater potential of these motors to eclipse built b series power with only bolt ons, it had become a seemingly far fetched fantasy of mine to put one of these torque monsters in my integra. That combined with the insane level of aftermarket support from companies like k tuned and hybrid racing making it far less difficult nowadays, i said screw it and dove in. Because it is such a costly swap and im no baller, its going to be a long term project for sure, but something im excited and determined to make a reality for myself. And of course since i have a decent ek chassis, i plan to make that the future home for the b18c1 once its revived. Its going to be a long road with slow progress for me since ill be saving for each individual part needed to complete the swap, but i have a pretty good idea of the direction ill be taking so its just a matter of waiting for money. Im planning to keep the longblock stock internally and just aquire the necessary bolt ons to get it running and tuned healthy at first. At that point im sure ill be more than happy with the power im making for a while coming from a slow ass d16 haha.
 
#8 ·
thanks for the warm welcome guys! this forum has been the best resource material for me when it comes to tackling anything w the teg, and the other builds on here are super inspirational.




yeah thats just kinda how life goes though right? Dont get me wrong, i get heated everytime something stupid happens, and im always thinking what could possibly go wrong next. But i cant complain. Im happy with how my life is going currently. I only wish i made a little more money to throw at car parts!
 
#9 ·
def wont be as beastly as your gsr thats for sure! that thing is awesome! maybe one day.
So as the weather got warmer i decided to start slinging some paint. What better to do when youre bored saving up for parts? I started with the trans. I took a wire wheel to it and got of most of the dirt and crust in all the little corners with a dremel, and pulled off a few things like all the sensor plugs and the mount post thing. Masked up the sensors and whatnot and blasted it with some primer

IMG_1506 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_1512 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

And after a few coats of silver engine enamel, i looks like this...

IMG_1516 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_1533 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

looks alot better. After seeing how that came out i gave the k block the same treatment. I got that thing up on a stand, stripped off all the bits i wouldnt be using for the swap like intake manifold, exhaust manifold, and the evap crap. Masked it all up and started painting.

IMG_1526 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_1535 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_1542 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

I didnt really like how rough the vc looked either and i wasnt sure what color i wanted to go with. I might eventually get it powder coated but for now i decided to go over it with some wrinkle black. i like the idea of the k vc matching the original bseries vc.

IMG_1549 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_1550 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_1564 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

and the finished product..

IMG_1586 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

gsr waiting patiently for its new heart

IMG_1588 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_1693 by evan mclaren, on Flickr
 
#12 ·
Thanks for the input. Im a pretty big fan of k-tuned parts aesthetically speaking, plus they seem to put a ton of thought into their designs as far as functionality and longevity goes. They do a pretty awesome job of creating solutions for simplifying the swap making it almost completely bolt in. I have almost a complete parts list mapped out for my swap and if its not oem its most likely ktuned
 
#14 ·
id have to agree with you there as well. k20a.org has some really sick builds and a wealth of info. without it being there as a reference i doubt id ever feel capable of completing this swap. but this forum was the first one i really started lurking on hard even before i got my integra. its been very educational and the members here genuinely seem like they want to help each other. but yeah that torque is what im craving for sure. im so sick of driving a d series its not even funny. ive been heavily debating putting the k parts stacking on hold for a few months and just get my b18 rebuilt so i can stuff that in the civic just so i can have something a little more fun to drive to work lol
 
#15 ·
got a few things accomplished this past week. finally got a set of coils for my girls gsr and dropped in down to a reasonable height. went with bwr coilovers since i got them for cheap. the ride on them feels extra soft and a tad underdamped for the 10k 6k spring rates. they are comfy though almost like stock. there is a hint of residual bounce when you hit a dip or large bump but its not crazy or anything. theyre good for her wanting something comfortable.

IMG_2358 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_2633 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_26361 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

she got handed down my tanabe exhaust and function 7 lca's since im not using them at the moment and i love the way they look on a black car. got another set of coils for my civic as well.

IMG_2613 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_2640 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

i sold the progress coils i had and grabbed a set of function form type 1's. the spring rates are the same as the bwr's but they are damped a little firmer and more appropriately. theyre firm but not harsh and no bounce whatsoever. they feel very comparable to the progress coils which rode and handled amazing even though i was dumped alot lower on them than recommended. that was ultimately the reason i decided to try something else and sold the progress. ill be sticking with these.

anyway, i also decided to start pulling the b18 out and get it ready for the machine shop.

IMG_2655 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_2660 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

only worked on it for a couple hours before i had to crash for the night. took my time trying to keep everything organized so nothing gets lost in the disorganization that is my garage. had to borrow a snap on gun to pull the axle nuts off too so that brought things to a halt. hopefully this thing will be at the machine shop soon so i can get it reassembled and into the civic to liven that thing up a little. its so painfully slow. ill be taking this opportunity to clean up the bay and remove all the stuff i wont be needing like ac and abs and that pass side frame rail mount bracket.
 
#20 ·
thanks man i think i may have stumbled across that before. it looks like a pretty good introductory guide to the swap. ive been fascinated by this swap for the past couple years and have been digging around the internet especially on k20a.org for any info i can get my hands on. its a pretty involved swap but as long as you do your research and choose your parts wisely, it can be pretty straightforward when it comes time to drop it in. i cant wait till im at that point. but in the meantime i got this accomplished at least...

IMG_2670 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_2667 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_2676 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_2681 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

the extraction went fairly smoothly with the exception of a destroyed castle nut and mangled ball joint threads from cutting off said casle nut. :thumbs_down:
now its time to brake this thing down and get it to the machine shop for inspection and whatnot. once i get a new ball joint pressed in ill push the shell outside for a good scrub of the bay. its pretty grimy but not as bad as the motor itself.


IMG_2687 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_2675 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

the dirt is thick on this thing
 
#21 ·
I grapped another stand the other day so i could get this thing up off the floor and broken down. first things first...

IMG_2689 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

nothing happens in my garage without beer lol. i pulled the trans off and managed to break loose the flywheel after a little struggling.

IMG_1937 (1) by evan mclaren, on Flickr

The clutch looks pretty toasted haha.

IMG_2698 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_2694 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_2697 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

the contrast between the two is hilarious. i did my best to clean it with a ton of carp cleaner and simple green. i cant wait to see what it looks like after the machine shop.

and the teardown begins...

IMG_2699 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_2720 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_2715 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

cams, caps, and rockers all layed out in order

IMG_2717 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_2721 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

and off with its head!

IMG_2732 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_2734 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

The cylinder walls look good to me thats a relief

IMG_2730 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_2727 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_2729 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_2726 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

crust and more crust..

IMG_2735 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_2737 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

one of these exhaust valves is obviously not oem. that mustve been the one that was replaced by the original owner.

IMG_2736 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

and theres the culprit! burnt to a crisp! so my assumptions were wrong and it wasnt a ring that gave out. Im pretty happy with finding that actually. That means i may be able to get away without having to do anything to the cylinder walls besides a hone and reuse my pistons with fresh rings and bearings. Id like to replace the non oem valve along with the one that was burnt but well see what the machinist says about the rest of them. next thing is to get the block torn down so i can see what kind of shape the walls are really in and hope the rods and crank look good. Then everything is going off to the shop and i have a stack of gaskets and crap to buy. im still debating on what rod and main bearings to go with. it seems like theres a ton of people who opt to go with acl races instead of the color coded oem bearings. ill be taking notes of the bearing colors as im breaking it down so if i choose to go oem i know what i need. but seeing the drastic price difference has me leaning toward acls. the thing that has me skeptical is the fact that they only come in two sizes instead of the five or so that honda has. so my question is with the clearances not being as precise, will it be a big deal since im not going to be making any power? im just looking to daily this motor and not beat the crap out of it on the track, so will acls be close enough to hold up or should i drop double the cash and go oem?
 
#22 ·
B18c1 completely disassembled and ready for the machine shop

I had the day off from work so i decided to use the time to finish breaking down gsr motor. Every time i walk into the garage and look at my teg in pieces it hurts my heart, and seeing how grimy the bay was didnt make things any better. So before i went back to the motor i took an hour or so to give the front end a simple green bath.

IMG_2902 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_2937 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

i crammed my fingers and a rag into every nook and cranny i could possibly fit and went through almost an entire bottle of simple green. It looks a hell of a lot better now. Since i was on a cleaning rampage i went at the trans a little too. As much oil was caked in the clutch housing im surprised the thing would even grab. I sprayed some degreaser in there too and let it sit for a while before i used a rag to wipe it down. Its not squeaky clean but still much better.

IMG_2931 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

So once i was satisfied with that it was on to the block. I hadnt pulled the oil pan off yet so that where i started. I then removed the baffle tray, oil pick up, and oil pump. I managed to strip a couple of the oil pan studs and one of the baffle tray studs when trying to remove them. I had to resort to vice grips to get them out so ill be purchasing new ones :mad:

IMG_2907 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

I jotted down all the letters and numbers off the block, crank, and rods as i was taking everything apart so determine what color bearings to order..

IMG_2906 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_2910 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_2913 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_2917 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

Turns out every bearing is a green except for one yellow rod bearing. Thats pretty convenient. Next the pistons and rods came out

IMG_2919 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_2923 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

Then the crank..

IMG_2927 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_2925 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

the bare block

IMG_2936 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

a look inside the cylinder walls. its hard to tell but they're pretty smooth.

IMG_2934 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

and this is how she sits. My entire motor laid out on a table..

IMG_2924 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

endless bags with parts and bolts all labeled

IMG_2929 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

pile of crap over here...

IMG_2932 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

pile of crap over there...

IMG_2933 by evan mclaren, on Flickr
 
#23 ·
nothing exciting going on over here. i just got bored and wanted to mess with something so i decided while i had my front end apart itd be a good time to tuck some crap.

IMG_3104 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_3102 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_3108 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

its a good thing i wont be running power steering, cruise control, or abs allowing me to route the headlight harness through the hole in the chassis and leave those plugs unaccessible but protected. anyone else whos done this knows how frustrating it can be getting all the harness plugs back through the firewall and out the rubber boot in the doorjam. at least the harness is long enough to have enough slack to reach all the way back up front without having to extend anything. Actually i did disconnect the two leads that go to the brake mc resevior to give myself a little more slack and plan on extending them an inch or so to connect them back up. sometime in the near future ill be purchasing the brake lines and prop valve from the RS model teg to delete the abs system as well as remove the charcoal canister and evap lines to clean up the other side of the engine bay.

IMG_3110 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

looks like a freakin mess. once all thats out of the way ill reroute the other harness and be pretty much done with the bay tucking. I wont be tucking any brake lines or anything but the fuel filter will be removed from the firewall because of the swap fuel system, so after alls said and done ill be happy with how much less cluttered it looks.

while i was messing around with wires i also had the gsr trans soaking in some gunk degreaser. after a little bit of scrubbing with a scotch brite and a quick rinse it came out a hell of a lot cleaner than it was

IMG_3111 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

ill be painting it eventually the same way i did the K along with the gsr longblock, intake mani, and all the brackets before its all swapped into my civic

IMG_3113 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

and a random pic of this as a little self motivation..

IMG_3126 by evan mclaren, on Flickr
 
#24 ·
Your car is lookin awesome man! I'll def be following this thread since I was thinking about the k swap for mine too, didn't see the point in swapping and building a b if i can just pull a k.
 
#26 ·
Nice build. In for more!
thanks guys! yeah i debated for a while whether it was a worth spending the money on a k swap. i figured since it would take some money to build the b series up enough to make the same power as a bolt on k, and i have the garage space and a daily i can take my time collecting all the parts necessary. And since i have a 98 ek coupe as a daily i can drop the b series in there and have two swap chassis.

got a couple pieces to the puzzle in the mail today


IMG_3490 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

supertech black nitride flatface valve both intake and exhaust as well as valve seals. im not gambling on using any of the original oem valvetrain seeing as this heads burnt two already i figure the rest are prob hurting as well. im just hoping a three angle valve job and these new valves combined with new piston rings will be enough to solve that problem. I also picked up an obd2a p72 to eliminate the immobilizer problem and make the ecu plugnplay with my 98 civic chassis. now to wait on a couple more paychecks so i can get the rest of my oem parts orders knocked out. ive been debating on purchasing some hasport or innovative mounts to replace the crappy ones in my civic when i do the swap. If theres anyone who reads this that has experience with either brand and can give me some feedback on quality and how obnoxious the vibrations will be, please chime in.
 
#28 ·
yeah i was leaning towards the hasports as they seem to be the popular choice. the innovatives have me curious tho with their different bushing design that they claim transfers less vibration to the chassis. im pretty sure they both carry a lifetime warranty and the innovatives have a slightly lower price tag. maybe ill just give them a shot and see how well they hold up and if im disappointed ill make the switch.
 
#30 ·
Nothing major over here but i was excited to pick up one of these finally

IMG_3588 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

ive been on the lookout for an oem lip for a while now and finally stumbled upon one locally that wasnt too expensive. Its a little beat up on the bottom but for the price and the fact that ive wanted one forever, i couldnt pass it up.

IMG_3595 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_3592 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

a couple of the tabs are barely hanging on by a thread and theres a small crack on the bottom that cant be seen when mounted. looks like the car this was on was slammed on its face. Im thinking after a little jb weld and some paint itll look alright

IMG_3602 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

IMG_3607 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

Cant beat the oem fitment. im still on the lookout for another so if anyone has one or sees one for sale give me a heads up!
 
#31 ·
BEFORE

IMG_3110 by evan mclaren, on Flickr






AFTER

IMG_3626 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

bye bye

IMG_3614 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

00 Si prop valve

IMG_3623 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

im still waiting on the RS lines so i can finish the job, but i was bored today and impatient so i did what i could. I yanked out the charcoal canister as well because i wont be running any evap components with the k swap. I removed the vent tube from underneath the car as well so i would vent at the rear of the car instead of the front to hopefully avoid smelling too many fumes. I had to loosen the front subframe enough to lower it about a quarter inch to give the tube enough wiggle room to yank it out. Even then it was still a pain but i didnt want to fully drop the subframe so i fought with it. i just disconnected the hard tube from the quick connect fitting by the tank and left that fitting and the flexible hose back there. im not sure if thatll cause any problems venting like that (besides of course the destruction of the environment) someone chime in if it will. Either way it looks a hell of a lot better without all that mess in the bay.

IMG_3616 by evan mclaren, on Flickr

Next, while i wait for the brake lines to show up, is to reroute that side of the harness. It seems like this side will be more of a pain to tuck than the drivers side.
 
#32 ·
I'm in for opinions of the canister delete / vent tube. I've heard the stock cans aren't doing anything effective for us at the age our cars are, but don't want to always get high on fuel vapors either. Was something I was also looking at removing when I get my motor out of the way.

Digging the progress...


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 
#36 ·
did you leave the vent tube where it was or remove that too? i opted to remove it so it wasnt poking into the bay and because i read that you could smell vapors with it venting up front. the valve by the tank is still in place and i wedged the plastic tube with the quick connect fitting up on top of the tank strap so it wasnt dangling. i figured that way the vapors would be to the rear, but i was just a little worried about running into some unforseen problem for some reason.
 
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