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Shuudoushi's Project Teggy (Franky [HE'S ALIVE!!! {Again...}])

27K views 241 replies 19 participants last post by  Shuudoushi 
#1 · (Edited)
Hello, I'm Shuudoushi, nice to meet y'all.

Now that the intro is done, onto to the fun bits!

Around 2 years ago, I bought my first teggy, a USDM 1991 GS 3-door (Da9) with a little over 200k on the OD. And the most rednecked USDM B18B1 swap I have ever seen... For this reason, I nicknamed my car "Franky". But hell, I only paid 1500 (USD), so not much skin off my teeth. And it's a 20 something year old car, I knew it was going to need work.

Franky's motor seems to have come from a 94~95 USDM Integra LS. The wiring is a mess... There is still wires that I have no idea what their for, but I'm scared to cut any of them for they might kill me... The piss poor wire jobs that I have fixed was a random power wire, I guess it was for an amp at one time? That ran from the fuse box on the driver side, under the rear seats, under the passenger seat, and ending behind the center of the radio din... Why they didn't just run the wire behind the driver side kick panel then down the middle of the car to the amp? Not a clue...

Franky had some idle issues that was fixed by taking the TB off and removing, what I think at least, was some bits of rubber jammed into the fast idle valve and a port on the TB itself. This also fixed a few other issues, like bad mpg.

About a week or so ago, Franky's dizzy died T.T But I had a "spare" in the trunk! So Franky lived again for about two days... Then when checking the timing, the rust filled dizzy that I put on it to limp it home, snagged for a fraction of a second... Intake cam jumped around 7 teeth... But it at least looks like I got lucky enough that the valves didn't get bent! Still need to pull the head off to confirm though...

Plans for Franky in the future:

  • Do a FULL rewire of the car!
  • RWD conversion + J35/J37 swap (and yes, I know how much work this takes, wouldn't be the first FWD that I've converted.)
  • ABS delete (It's just 28 lbs of dead weight atm. Though, it is still good as a prop valve. If anyone has a 30/30 prop valve, let me know.)
  • Chip the ECU with this kit

Oh, and it may, or may not, help to know that I'm known as "The Mad Scientist" at local meets lol.

Quick links:
The test pipe issue...
The spark plugs issue.
The plan!
New stuff part 1.
Redneckin' done right.
The crank pulley incident...
The dizzy 'fix'

Franky's mod list:
Done by other people:
Lowered ~3 inches (unknown brand of springs, but feel cheese grade [Yeah... They were stock springs that were cut...])
B&M short throw shifter
Megan Racing stainless 4-2-1 headers
Full stainless exhaust (unknown brand, but I'm thinking it's Megan Racing)
B18B1 swap (Rednecked as hell) [Now Gone]
GSR Y80 with LS 5th (according to a previous owner) and hydro to cable clutch conversion (which I'm going to try to go back to hydro)
LS/RS cloth front seats (I'm guessing the GS leathers were ****ed)
Back lit white gauges and white cluster facade (the back lighting doesn't work on the gauges anymore, no idea why tbh)
16x7 gunmetal rims (I hate gunmetal, so if anyone wants to trade for some black ones or something, PM me)
"Stage two" clutch (at least the pressure plate is, unknown brand, but guessing ACT judging by the yellow pressure plate)
Aluminum crank/main pulley
A/C delete (done very badly...)
"Push button" start (again, done very badly... It's not as bad anymore...)
Some kind of ******* intake with a K&N high flow air filter jammed into the stock intake after it had the air box end of the intake ripped off...
Some kind of ****ed up battery setup using amp wire (mostly fixed)
Done by me:
OBD1 conversion (including 4 wire O2 sensor)
Radio w/ new speakers
A ****ty plastic Spectre intake... Same K&N filter though (it's better than what was on the car...)
Hood pins (the front of the hood got damaged and wouldn't latch all the way anymore...)
High flow cat (The guts of this thing got knocked out of it due to how low the car is, I'm using it as a test pipe now.)
Cruise control has been reworked to be a push button start
New accessory circuit
Drilled and slotted rotors
Ceramic compound brake pads
Re-loomed engine bay (it looks so~ ****ing much better now)
Loomed ECU harness and sub harness (for the most part at least)
JDM 9.6:1 B20B swap (Has a shocking amount of torque, I think the motor I got has aftermarket cams in it.)
Soon to be done:
ABS delete (that prop valve is a pain in the ass to find...)

Things that have been "fixed":
  • The push button start is at least no longer just a momentary toggle switch straight wired to the starter... It at least now has a real button and an inline toggle switch to keep me from bumming the starter while the motor is already running...
  • The radiator fan is no longer straight wired from the fuse for the radio (btw, the wire WAS just wrapped around the fuse and jammed back in), it's now straight wired from the fan relay fuse using an "add-a-circuit". Still has the toggle switch, but it's moved to a better place for it now at least.
  • The battery and engine WAS just grounded with some 6 or 8 awg amp wire... I replaced it with a proper battery ground cable, and a proper motor ground cable, both 4 awg.
  • Fixed the HVAC blower - For some reason, someone cut the wires for the blower then twisted and taped them back together. Needless to say, the wires came undone again, I just used a crimp connector to fix it.
Gallery

My engine bay before the time jump.


The "control panel" I rigged up do to the ******* way the starter is done...


The wiring behind the "control panel"


My cams after Franky jumped time on me...


Yes, I know my car is dirty, oh well, it's a project in the rawest form, deal with it :icon_twisted:

Don't expect any pic of the outside anytime soon, it looks like a turd, but I don't really care. I'm more of a "Go over show" kind of guy, if you will.

 
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#7 · (Edited by Moderator)
I spoke of RWD conversion, so I thought I would give a little insight on the process.

This is not a process for the faint of heart. If you want to go through with it, you must follow through and finish it. This is not a weekend project, it can take weeks, months, or even years to do right. This also is not something that is easily undone. But, if you're just looking for a fun little toy to beat on and have no regard for your own life or maybe even those around you, this is something you can knock out in a few hours with friends.

If you want a road legal car, and not a rolling death trap like the Geo I spoke of, you're going to need metal, lots of metal. Sheet, tube, plate, and bar.

The sheet metal needs to be the thickness of your firewall + 1/4 of the thickness, this will become part of the firewall, trans/drive shaft tunnel, and ect. If you cut something out, this is going to fill the hole.

The plate metal needs to be no less than a 1/4", it's going to be used as anchor plates later down the road.

The tubes and bars can be any size/thickness really, that is, as long as you trust your life to it. Their going to become body reinforcement, I suggest no less than an 8 point roll cage, 12 point would be better.

Keep in mind for the metal, "Overkill is underrated."

You're going to need the usual junk for a RWD car. North-south compat motor, trans, rear end, front end components, ect. Chances are, you'll need a new fuel system as well. If it doesn't fit at first, you can always make it fit later.

Speaking of road legal. In most states, a qualified wielder has to do all the wielding on the structural parts of the car.

Next step is to put the car on jack stands or a lift. "Victory loves preparation."

Give the car a good, long, hard, look. Plan out where everything is going to go, take notes of where you'll need to cut/hammer/ect. Now would be a great time to take care of any rust as well.

Measure 500 times, cut once, you have ONE shot to get it right. Any more than that, and you can weaken the rest of the body too much from either, cutting away too much metal, or heat damage.

Next step, gut the car like a trout. EVERYTHING must come out/off, turn the car into nothing more than a husk. Motor, doors, windows, interior, wiring, pluming, EVERYTHING!!! It's going to get ****ing hot inside that car, you'll want to have the ventilation.

At this point, tack wielding reinforcement into the car would be a good idea. Brace the strut towers, the foot wells, any place your notes say you may have to cut. This is going to prevent your car from becoming a clam. You don't want that, now do you?

Measure 500 times, cut once. This is going to become your prayer for the next few hours while you painstakingly measure where you need to cut. Using some long bits of straight metal tack wielded in place will make sure your cuts stay good and clean as you cut through the belly of your car with a plasma cutter. I don't suggest a cut off wheel, too much stop and go. For the firewall, I suggest using a pipe bender to bend some tubing to the right size, tack wield it where it's needed, and trace it with the plasma cutter.

Now it's time to mock everything up. Put the motor, trans, rear end, ect. where you're going to want them and make sure you didn't **** anything up. Once your happy with the placement, tack wielding some temp mounts in place will help with the next part, this is also where that reinforcement is going to come in.

Check your clearances for everything and start bending metal to fit. Give yourself no less than an inch of space around everything, but even that is a tight fit.

Once you have that done, it's all in the wielders hands. They'll be putting in the cage, wielding in your new firewall stuff, and any new mounts you need for the various things you'll be adding to the car that it was never meant to have.

I'm sure there are things I either missed outright, or overlooked. If you have any other questions on the process, I'll see what I can do about answering them.
 
#9 · (Edited)
Here soon, if I'm lucky, I'll be putting Franky on a trailer and dragging him over to a buddies brother-in-law (still not very clear on that one >.>) shop/garage and ripping Franky's motor apart and starting the rebuild. For now, I'm not going to do anything crazy, just toss in OEM style parts from Evergreen. I just hope I didn't **** up my head...
 
#12 · (Edited)
I found a 98~00 JDM B20B/Z long block for $650 + s/h, but I have no idea how well it will get along with a stock 91 ECU (iirc, I have a pr7, or pr4 ECU, I'd have to pull up my carpet again to find out.). Does anyone have some experience with this motor and ECU combo? (For future reference, I have a USDM Y80 5-speed.)
 
#13 ·
You'll be fine on an ls ecu
 
#15 ·
Sorry.... You will be fine on a b18a/b ecu of any year that works with your car
 
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#17 ·
No problem. I miss my b20z setup. It was a lot of fun
 
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#19 ·
I'll have to find you the video after I installed my itr cams. The vtak crossed so hard someone found the video, posted it here, and asked if all cams should crack that hard. Bahahahah it used to be soooo loud. Its quieted down
 
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#21 ·
Take a look at the "does itr cams always crack this hard" thread I just updated
 
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#23 · (Edited)
I absolutely hated my magnaflow. I have a vibrant 2.5in muffler. Love it

I have a 2.5in high flow CST I'm about to sell. So if you want a better cat I have one
 
#25 ·
Ugh. My magnaflow setup was so bad. It was terrible. We always reccomend buying yonaka or buying g cheap eBay and replacing the muffler/axle back
 
#26 ·
I know I have a Megan Racing 2 piece header, as for cat back... Not a clue... The cat itself is the only thing Magnaflow though, and that's only b/c I picked it up for $137 and it was a bolt on. Though, I live in Alabama, and if I REALLY wanted to, I could just dump the exhaust in front of the rear wheels and it still be legal lol
 
#27 ·
Bahahahah I have a brand new weld in high flow (you can steal needed pieces from the magnaflow) that will sound a lot better. Catco brand. I'll let it go for 100 so if you wana change then sound hit me up in a pm
 
#28 ·
If I had a welder, I would have just made my own exhaust by now XD And the bolt on I have is high flow, it just muffles the sound a bit more than the straight through thing that was on it lol (for the life of me I can't remember what it's called...). Which wasn't making back pressure b/c someone jammed an O2 sensor in it and it seems they either broke it off, or it was ground off due to Franky sitting only 4" off the ground.
 
#29 ·
Test pipe is the word you want. That's odd I run a test pipe w no issues. Teggy loves it
 
#30 · (Edited)
Yes test pipe! Thank you lol. And it would be fine if it wasn't for the massive exhaust leak caused by the jacked up O2 sensor that was installed facing the ground... I think one of the prev owners just took an O2 sensor, cut most of it off to make a plug and just filled it with JB weld... I've been looking for a proper plug for it, until I decide to install a wideban or something, and just reinstall the test pipe.
 
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