danteisme's 1996 DB8-Found and Rebuild Thread - Page 35 - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
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post #477 of 504 (permalink) Old 01-04-2017, 10:27 PM Thread Starter
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oh good grief....i may have found part of the issue contributing to my confusion...the helms electrical manual is for a 1998. While they are both still OBD2A, there might be some differences.

6-(94-97): Yellow/Black : To ECM Connector Terminals A11 & A24 (IGP)

these are definitely the pins that are reading almost nothing during testing at the ECU, so it looks like next i test the yellow / white wire.

1996 DB8 Bought 2003--->Sold 2010--->Bought Back May 2014 Restoration in Process!!
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post #478 of 504 (permalink) Old 01-07-2017, 11:45 PM Thread Starter
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Oh geeeeeeeze.....sometimes i really am my own worst enemy. I was able to get in the garage and do some work for about an hour tonight before the cold was entirely too much. The kero heaters can only do so much when it is zero outside. So, there was an important lesson learned tonight. it is not a good idea to work on a vehicle to exhaustion and burn yourself out. I made a very stupid mistake somewhere along the way when i first started messing with this electrical stuff. I think it happened after i made the repairs to the wires at the ECU, because that would have me remove the fuse for the ECU while i was doing the repairs. And then, after i made the repairs, i put the freakin fuse back in the wrong place.....There was no power going to the ECU, because there was no fuse in the correct holder.... So frustrating, this is all because of an oversight i made. BUT!!! On a good note, i finished the repair to the main relay wire harness and plugged the ECU back in and plugged in the vafc2 and everything turned on as it was supposed to. Frustrating that it took me this long to find this out, but i'm thankful its over. The fuel tank is going back in next weekend and fuel is going in the tank and i'm going to start priming the system and checking for leaks.

I'm not so bright sometimes lol....
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post #479 of 504 (permalink) Old 01-08-2017, 02:39 AM
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I just want to commend you on such a dedicated build/restoration very well done .... Its people like you that gives me motivation for my light restoration of a GS-R I got recently......It takes tremendous level of commitment as well very nice and please keep us updated !
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post #480 of 504 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 09:16 PM Thread Starter
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Looking for a couple of suggestions. First, how am i going to cram all of this back in that passenger kick panel?danteisme's 1996 DB8-Found and Rebuild Thread-imageuploadedbyag-free1484183331.418794.jpg

And how do you remove these without breaking them? If you cant tell from the pic, this is in the trunk. I bought all new clips and installed them and forgot to check my bulb status in my tail lights. I have multiple bulbs out. Doh! I need to pull these all back out so i can change out the bulbs. Any tips?
danteisme's 1996 DB8-Found and Rebuild Thread-imageuploadedbyag-free1484183776.855215.jpg


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post #481 of 504 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 09:22 PM
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Looking for a couple of suggestions. First, how am i going to cram all of this back in that passenger kick panel?
It goes back in there....kinda. You'll need to push and prod and knead and wiggle it all back so that the ECU mounts to the bracket, and then the wires go where they can.

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And how do you remove these without breaking them? If you cant tell from the pic, this is in the trunk. I bought all new clips and installed them and forgot to check my bulb status in my tail lights. I have multiple bulbs out. Doh! I need to pull these all back out so i can change out the bulbs. Any tips?
Use a sharp pick to pop the center pin up a little, then grab it and pull it most off the way out. Then use a regular clip puller to pop the clip off.
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post #482 of 504 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 10:23 PM Thread Starter
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Got it. The clips dont leave you much to grab so i was worried about chewing them all up.


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post #483 of 504 (permalink) Old 01-15-2017, 10:58 PM Thread Starter
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So, as seems to be the norm with my car, good news bad news.

Good news: i installed the filler neck and fuel tank, got all of the hoses and lines connected up and i pressurized the fuel system. two cranks of the key and there was gasoline spraying in the engine bay. I overlooked the main fuel feed to the bottom of the filter and never tightened it in all the way. tightened that up, pressurized the system a couple more times and checked for leaks. No leaks = happy Dante. That fuel tank was a real buggar though, i bet it took me 2 hours of messing with that thing. raise the tank, lower the tank, raise the tank, lower the thank. By the way, a transmission jack is perfect for putting in or tanking out a fuel tank by yourself. Much more stable than on a standard floor jack.

My wife helped me bleed the clutch. I never did it after installing the new CMC and CSC. That took forever, but its nice having pedal pressure again. I have not adjusted the clutch pedal yet.

Bad news: I spotted some surface rust just under where the fuel filler sits. so i said, i'll knock it down real quick with a brass wire wheel. Knock it down real quick i did....



Penetrated right through that thing metal. UGH...This quarter panel's repair just got harder. I was intending on just replacing basically the wheel arch, but that is out the window now. I also have to be careful how high up i go for this repair. A long time ago, circa 2004 or 2005 maybe this car was rear ended in a parking lot. I watched the guy do it, i wasn't even in the car when it happened lol. Anyways, this panel has been repaired once before and the body shop that did it sectioned in a new panel. I see where they messed with it in the trunk, and i DO NOT want to touch that. I think that will just be opening up a huge can of worms. Oh well, i'll have to figure that mess out when i get to it. My goal for now is to get the car to run for the first time in about 2 years.

So naturally, a few questions come to mind. What is the best way to start a car that has been sitting for this long? It has fresh oil and plugs and all of that, while it was sitting i sprayed a chemical into the spark plug chambers (i forget the product but it is back in the build somewhere) and i occasionally rotated the crank while it was sitting. I need a good procedure to fire this car up again.

I'm sure there will be stuff leaking everywhere once i start it, but that is to be expected. Especially after finding the main fuel feed line hand tightened into the filter. Getting real close! Ran out of time this weekend but Depending on work this week, i should be able to leave early one day and come home and try and fire her up.
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post #484 of 504 (permalink) Old 01-18-2017, 09:13 AM Thread Starter
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well, i tried to crank the motor over last night, and all i got from the car as a response was a loud click. The lights all dimmed a bit, but never went out. *i was still showing good voltage on my vafc while trying to start it as well. It sounds like the starter solenoid is trying to do something, but thats as far as its getting. *i'll pull the starter hopefully tonight and see how dirty the contacts are. i may need to do the DIY rebuild project on that. *before i do that though, i'll take the battery and the starter up the street to advanced and have them both tested to make sure i don't have an issue some place else.
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post #485 of 504 (permalink) Old 01-21-2017, 12:28 AM Thread Starter
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Oook. I'm not sure what to call a win and what not to. I had to dip into my quarter panel fund and get a new starter. Put the starter in and cranked away with the ecu unplugged to get everything coated with oil. Then i plugged that fuse back in and cranked away with fuel going into the system. After a while, the engine fired...and it scared me. It sounds pretty terrible. It has great oil pressure, but it sounds off. I double checked my firing order and that was correct. So then i thought, maybe that stuff i sprayed down the spark plug tubes is causing a misfire. So i pulled the plugs and cleaned them off. You can see some clear bubbles around the plug in this pic. danteisme's 1996 DB8-Found and Rebuild Thread-imageuploadedbyag-free1484972175.232919.jpgThen, i immediately started thinking of all of the bad things i could have done. The sound is very reminiscent of when my car started eating coolant a long long time ago. So i drained the oil, and it doesnt appear to be mixed and looks clean
. danteisme's 1996 DB8-Found and Rebuild Thread-imageuploadedbyag-free1484972105.200232.jpg. So now i'm thinking -did i hook up a coolant line where it should have been vacuum? Did i screw up something when i replaced my lma's? Im paranoid now lol. So i'm gonna buy 5 more quarts of oil tomorrow, try and double check my hose connections at the intake manifold, and pull the valve cover and see if anything immediately looks bad. Here is the video of it running. I say open downpipe in the video but i mean manifold lol. Its throwin 3 CEL codes, 1 related to the TPS and 2 for the downstream o2 sensor (because its not there). Ignore the fast and the furious in the background haha




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post #486 of 504 (permalink) Old 01-24-2017, 10:17 PM Thread Starter
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This past weekend i wanted to cross something off my list and get a little more walking space in my garage. so i installed the bumper. good grief, look at these panel gaps. i definitely have some adjusting to do.













on to things that frustrate me...i double checked all of my hose connections and they are all correct. next i focused my attention on the t-belt. i pulled the valve cover and set it to TDC. do these seem off a smidge?



i did pass up the white timing mark a bit, so maybe that is why it seems a bit off, at least its nothing crazy like 1 or 2 teeth off.



it still has a really bad miss. i took this video after putting the valve cover back on. it idles pretty steady, but as soon as a load is put on the motor it shakes really bad. i tried to get a good shot of this a few times with my phone, but its really hard to see how bad it is shaking.


i'm going to check for fuel and spark at each plug this week, if that checks out good, i'll go back and re-do my work and check my steps when i did the LMAs in the head. is there anything i should check before i go to that step? this has to be something i did during the rebuild. i won't get a chance to really tear back into the car until Sunday most likely.
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post #487 of 504 (permalink) Old 01-24-2017, 10:38 PM
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There's a rubber trim piece that goes along the front edge of the hood that will help with the gap up front.

Do me a favor.From now on don't care what other people think about your car. Do what YOU want to your car. Who gives a damn what other people think about it.
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post #488 of 504 (permalink) Old 01-25-2017, 12:48 AM
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My my sir. I for one am proud of you. This is not even a build, this is a restoration. LOVE IT! Love the progress.

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post #489 of 504 (permalink) Old 01-25-2017, 09:16 AM
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Have a timing light? Before you go too nuts trying to diagnose things, I'd throw a light on it and see how close you are. Awesome work on the car so far man!

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post #490 of 504 (permalink) Old 01-25-2017, 09:56 AM Thread Starter
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There's a rubber trim piece that goes along the front edge of the hood that will help with the gap up front.
that's right! i forgot about that piece. i have it upstairs in my garage somewhere.

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My my sir. I for one am proud of you. This is not even a build, this is a restoration. LOVE IT! Love the progress.
Thanks man! this definitely evolved into much more than i ever anticipated lol

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Have a timing light? Before you go too nuts trying to diagnose things, I'd throw a light on it and see how close you are. Awesome work on the car so far man!
i do have one. someone on honda tech also suggested running the car without the vafc plugged in to see if that affects anything. Just to eliminate a possible factor easily. timing is another easy thing to check, i'll add that to my list before i go crazy trying to diagnose this lol
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